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axislab last won the day on June 21 2016

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  1. Thank you for the perfect reply. Yes, I was using the post processing option. As for disabling M105, It's just a small project I'm helping with and all temperature related controls are handled mechanically and not through a slicer. M105 was triggering an error. I can't get into it much as it's not my personal project, I'm just testing various slicers for tool path and motion controls. Nothing temperature related if that makes sense.
  2. Is there a way to prevent Cura from adding M105 to gcode? I have used the "find and replace" to comment it out, but is there a way to prevent it completely?
  3. From left to right on the sharks, you can see the battle I was fighting. TinkerGnome firmware and adjusting the esteps is doing the trick! Now just on to dialing in the flow and a dozen other settings. Thanks for the help guys. Finally running 1.75mm on this machine.
  4. Am I able to flash to the Tinkergnome firmware through the arduino software, just like any other marlin firmware? Or is there a different process. Just asking before I screw anything up. I don't see any process instructions on the tinkergnome page.
  5. I am not understanding at all. What would I do with a text .gcode file after that? Where can I find my current value to even calculate my new number? I'm moving 75mm out of 100. Is there seriously not a simple, step by step guide anywhere for stupid people like myself?
  6. My question is where? and how do I enter that? On any other of my printers, I open arduino/marlin, find the old value, change it and re load. Where do I even find my old esteps value. Is the E97.6 ultimaker 2 or Ultimaker Original? Mine is a UM2
  7. I am having a heck of a time trying to calibrate my extruder. I am trying to find where, and HOW to update the extruder steps on my UM2. Doing the 100 test, I get 75mm of filament moved. That is free moving and not being pushed through the nozzle. Where can I find the value to change?
  8. Bah, Brilliant. I didn't even think to look for printed mods. Or of printing one for that matter. Yes, this should do the trick. Thanks yet again.
  9. I recently installed the 1.75 conversion kit from GR5, I also printed the 1.75 roberts feeder, and swapped bowden. Has anyone else done this mod before? If so, how did you attach the smaller bowden to the hotend?
  10. Sorry for the wording in the title, I'm not exactly sure what to call the part that they have replaced the spring with. Sleeve maybe? My olsen block conversion is getting the best of me, within minutes the hotend seems to have enough pressure inside to push the insulator right up and compress the spring. As seen in the first pic. Causing jams of course. I see the new machines get rid of the spring altogether, with a metal 'sleeve' piece. (Second pic) Is there anywhere I can find this part separately?
  11. Headtodesk lol. Firmware update.... 9 months of tearing this machine apart, and it's fixed by a firmware update haha. If this thread isn't the true definition of 3D printing troubleshooting, I don't know what is lol.
  12. I started this thread 9 months ago lol. I think this machine is just done. I am trully, trully at a loss of ideas, or hope for that matter haha.
  13. Ah, got it, thanks. They are farther apart than I realized. I have been having trouble with them both over this past year, I'm going to choose one, (probably the newer) and put some money into all the new mods, and bring it back to it's rightful glory. I'm just trying to take in all the factors before choosing which one gets the star treatment. Thanks for the insight.
  14. Thanks guys. Serial numbers, that would it go by the first set of 6 correct? Or the last set of 9? They flip-flop from lowest/highest is the only reason I ask. UM2A14 - MES133734 UM2A41 - MES133711
  15. I have 2 UM2 machines, I was told a while back that one was an older build because you could tell the LED's were different. Is this correct? One is a bit brighter, which makes me guess that is a newer build. ?? The only other thing I can see that is different, is the four long carriage/hotend screws on that one has 4 black spacers, where the other, slightly dimmer LED machine, does not. Is there any other way to date and age older UM2's?
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