axislab

Perfect. Thanks for the confirmation @SandervG. Good to know 👍

From searching, I see the original sliding rod blocks for the S5 were white, and those were prone to cracking. A short time later Ultimaker revised the blocks to a stronger black version. I just ordered a couple sets from Dynamism and they are White with the belt installed. Advertised as "brand new" (I Ordered replacements due to the rod falling loose.) I emailed and they told me the newest revision is white again. Is this true? or did they send me old stock known to be prone to failures? Thanks in advance

Thank you for the perfect reply. Yes, I was using the post processing option. As for disabling M105, It's just a small project I'm helping with and all temperature related controls are handled mechanically and not through a slicer. M105 was triggering an error. I can't get into it much as it's not my personal project, I'm just testing various slicers for tool path and motion controls. Nothing temperature related if that makes sense.

Is there a way to prevent Cura from adding M105 to gcode? I have used the "find and replace" to comment it out, but is there a way to prevent it completely?

From left to right on the sharks, you can see the battle I was fighting. TinkerGnome firmware and adjusting the esteps is doing the trick! Now just on to dialing in the flow and a dozen other settings. Thanks for the help guys. Finally running 1.75mm on this machine.

Am I able to flash to the Tinkergnome firmware through the arduino software, just like any other marlin firmware? Or is there a different process. Just asking before I screw anything up. I don't see any process instructions on the tinkergnome page.

I am not understanding at all. What would I do with a text .gcode file after that? Where can I find my current value to even calculate my new number? I'm moving 75mm out of 100. Is there seriously not a simple, step by step guide anywhere for stupid people like myself?

My question is where? and how do I enter that? On any other of my printers, I open arduino/marlin, find the old value, change it and re load. Where do I even find my old esteps value. Is the E97.6 ultimaker 2 or Ultimaker Original? Mine is a UM2

I am having a heck of a time trying to calibrate my extruder. I am trying to find where, and HOW to update the extruder steps on my UM2. Doing the 100 test, I get 75mm of filament moved. That is free moving and not being pushed through the nozzle. Where can I find the value to change?

Bah, Brilliant. I didn't even think to look for printed mods. Or of printing one for that matter. Yes, this should do the trick. Thanks yet again.

I recently installed the 1.75 conversion kit from GR5, I also printed the 1.75 roberts feeder, and swapped bowden. Has anyone else done this mod before? If so, how did you attach the smaller bowden to the hotend?

Sorry for the wording in the title, I'm not exactly sure what to call the part that they have replaced the spring with. Sleeve maybe? My olsen block conversion is getting the best of me, within minutes the hotend seems to have enough pressure inside to push the insulator right up and compress the spring. As seen in the first pic. Causing jams of course. I see the new machines get rid of the spring altogether, with a metal 'sleeve' piece. (Second pic) Is there anywhere I can find this part separately?

Headtodesk lol. Firmware update.... 9 months of tearing this machine apart, and it's fixed by a firmware update haha. If this thread isn't the true definition of 3D printing troubleshooting, I don't know what is lol.

I started this thread 9 months ago lol. I think this machine is just done. I am trully, trully at a loss of ideas, or hope for that matter haha.

Ah, got it, thanks. They are farther apart than I realized. I have been having trouble with them both over this past year, I'm going to choose one, (probably the newer) and put some money into all the new mods, and bring it back to it's rightful glory. I'm just trying to take in all the factors before choosing which one gets the star treatment. Thanks for the insight.

Thanks guys. Serial numbers, that would it go by the first set of 6 correct? Or the last set of 9? They flip-flop from lowest/highest is the only reason I ask. UM2A14 - MES133734 UM2A41 - MES133711

I have 2 UM2 machines, I was told a while back that one was an older build because you could tell the LED's were different. Is this correct? One is a bit brighter, which makes me guess that is a newer build. ?? The only other thing I can see that is different, is the four long carriage/hotend screws on that one has 4 black spacers, where the other, slightly dimmer LED machine, does not. Is there any other way to date and age older UM2's?

So if I understand this, you swapped the z motor and nut and all is well now? I am still having the issue on mine, sadly the machine just sits these past months, printing only flat items, like tokens for makerfaire and such.

Outstanding! Truly beautiful.

Is Cura exclusively Ultimaker now, or just for this build? I'm not seeing a clear way to add other, not as beautiful, machines.

Room temp is around 18-20c. Keep it locked in around 68-70F I have 5 printers, one other is also UM2, issue is only on this one, so I don't think that is it.

I am very particular about cleaning my machines, I clean and regrease all the threaded rods routinely. Using white lithium grease, and sewing machine oil on the smooth rods. I have since day one, and it was the first thing I did when this issue started showing up. Damn. It really looks like i'm stuck on this one. I can take the same gcode, and the same material over to my other um2 and it runs fine so we can rule those out. The bed travels very smoothly by hand up and down on the smooth rods when the nut is removed, so I think we can rule those out. It is far less smooth when the nut is attached. Like the motor resists a bit. Do we have a place to source the exact motors? I don't mind doing a full swap and seeing if that cures it, unless anyone has any "try this first" ideas...

I have been fighting this battle for the past couple weeks to no avail. The temp seems to hold steady, it fluctuates a degree or two but that is normal. Same effect with any material. do you think there is a chance the z motor itself would cause this if it's failing? Also, the brass bed nut that rides on the threaded rod, is there any way that could be worn down enough to cause this? I don't see a replacement on the site, does anyone know the specs or where to find a replacement?

I try to stay on top of light oil and grease. every 50-80hrs of runtime or so, i do a clean and reaply. I pulled the bed assembly screws, and even removed the Z nut, hoping maybe some plastic had found it's way into the threads. everything seemed fine. There is some light wobble to the z nut , is that normal? Got everything back together, belts "seem" fine to me, I have 5 printers, fairly familiar with proper tension, and they feel about the same as my other UM2 that is working great. Did I read somewhere that on the UM2's you adjust tension inside the square brackets? Or is it still just a matter of adding tensioners? Anyway, after take apart, cleaning, checking every pulley set screw and reassembly. Still this... Aaaargh. I'm thinking maybe new belts all around may be the next trick. Tension seems fine, but after 1300hrs or so, maybe the teeth are just too worn...

Does this look like a belt issue would you say? I've got over 1200 hours of print time on this machine, could the belts just be wearing a bit?