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axislab

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Posts posted by axislab

  1. Thank you for the perfect reply. Yes, I was using the post processing option.

     

    As for disabling M105, It's just a small project I'm helping with and all temperature related controls are handled mechanically and not through a slicer. M105 was triggering an error. I can't get into it much as it's not my personal project,  I'm just testing various slicers for tool path and motion controls. Nothing temperature related if that makes sense.

  2. I am having a heck of a time trying to calibrate my extruder.

    I am trying to find where, and HOW to update the extruder steps on my UM2.

    Doing the 100 test, I get 75mm of filament moved. That is free moving and not being pushed through the nozzle.

    Where can I find the value to change?

    • Like 1
  3. Sorry for the wording in the title, I'm not exactly sure what to call the part that they have replaced the spring with. Sleeve maybe?

    My olsen block conversion is getting the best of me, within minutes the hotend seems to have enough pressure inside to push the insulator right up and compress the spring. As seen in the first pic. Causing jams of course.

    I see the new machines get rid of the spring altogether, with a metal 'sleeve' piece. (Second pic)

    Is there anywhere I can find this part separately?

    5a331a9f1f0c9_IMG_20160406_1131097821.thumb.jpg.db8fcaf7b6c3f7b4286f697807c830ba.jpg

    5a331a9f6db30_IMG_20160406_1130345601.thumb.jpg.4de4806871eca9b05486f6043da4a824.jpg

    5a331a9f1f0c9_IMG_20160406_1131097821.thumb.jpg.db8fcaf7b6c3f7b4286f697807c830ba.jpg

    5a331a9f6db30_IMG_20160406_1130345601.thumb.jpg.4de4806871eca9b05486f6043da4a824.jpg

  4. The first of those is the oldest. It goes like this:

    UM2A01-MES133701 -> UM2A01-MES133799

    and then:

    UM2A02-MES133701 -> UM2A02-MES133799

    And so forth.

    Ah, got it, thanks.

    They are farther apart than I realized.

    I have been having trouble with them both over this past year, I'm going to choose one, (probably the newer) and put some money into all the new mods, and bring it back to it's rightful glory.

    I'm just trying to take in all the factors before choosing which one gets the star treatment.

    Thanks for the insight.

  5. I have 2 UM2 machines, I was told a while back that one was an older build because you could tell the LED's were different. Is this correct?

    One is a bit brighter, which makes me guess that is a newer build. ??

    The only other thing I can see that is different, is the four long carriage/hotend screws on that one has 4 black spacers, where the other, slightly dimmer LED machine, does not.

    Is there any other way to date and age older UM2's?

  6. Can I suggest a crazy unrelared idea? How hot it's your room temperature? I had some z problems and weird stepper moves and was just because the room was at 28C + and now with the airconditioner on cooling this spanishsummer it's working just perfect.

     

     

    Can I suggest a crazy unrelared idea? How hot it's your room temperature? I had some z problems and weird stepper moves and was just because the room was at 28C + and now with the airconditioner on cooling this spanishsummer it's working just perfect.

     

    Room temp is around 18-20c. Keep it locked in around 68-70F

    I have 5 printers, one other is also UM2, issue is only on this one, so I don't think that is it.

  7. I would try cleaning it with WD40 and then re-greasing it.  Also lubricate the two vertical rods with light oil (not wd40 - that's for cleaning only).  Any light mineral oil is fine.  3-in-1 oil.  Sewing machine oil.  Even baby oil is probably fine.

     

    I am very particular about cleaning my machines, I clean and regrease all the threaded rods routinely. Using white lithium grease, and sewing machine oil on the smooth rods.

    I have since day one, and it was the first thing I did when this issue started showing up.

    Damn. It really looks like i'm stuck on this one.

    I can take the same gcode, and the same material over to my other um2 and it runs fine so we can rule those out.

    The bed travels very smoothly by hand up and down on the smooth rods when the nut is removed, so I think we can rule those out.

    It is far less smooth when the nut is attached. Like the motor resists a bit.

    Do we have a place to source the exact motors?

    I don't mind doing a full swap and seeing if that cures it, unless anyone has any "try this first" ideas...

  8. I have been fighting this battle for the past couple weeks to no avail.

    The temp seems to hold steady, it fluctuates a degree or two but that is normal.

    Same effect with any material.

    do you think there is a chance the z motor itself would cause this if it's failing?

    Also, the brass bed nut that rides on the threaded rod, is there any way that could be worn down enough to cause this? I don't see a replacement on the site, does anyone know the specs or where to find a replacement?

  9. I try to stay on top of light oil and grease. every 50-80hrs of runtime or so, i do a clean and reaply.

    I pulled the bed assembly screws, and even removed the Z nut, hoping maybe some plastic had found it's way into the threads. everything seemed fine. There is some light wobble to the z nut , is that normal?

    Got everything back together, belts "seem" fine to me, I have 5 printers, fairly familiar with proper tension, and they feel about the same as my other UM2 that is working great.

    Did I read somewhere that on the UM2's you adjust tension inside the square brackets? Or is it still just a matter of adding tensioners?

    Anyway, after take apart, cleaning, checking every pulley set screw and reassembly.

    Still this... Aaaargh.

    5a330d59346b3_IMAG02391.thumb.jpg.5bdf24b68c324b37426c91942926d352.jpg

    I'm thinking maybe new belts all around may be the next trick. Tension seems fine, but after 1300hrs or so, maybe the teeth are just too worn...

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