Jump to content

x3nomorph

Dormant
  • Posts

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by x3nomorph

  1. Sorry, i recorded the video when the material was already cut off, that was the second try. The filament is coming 10-15 cm out and then it happens. I saw lot of times that roberts feeder but didn't though why should i change the stock one. I will see, maybe i should really try it. thanks
  2. Hi all, I got some problems when i change my filaments, mostly the standard blue from ultimaker. The feeder always tries to remove the filament and get stucked and just grinding the filament and destroying it!! The first time i said ok, second time...happens, but always its not ok. What can i do against that? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/12944-img-20150226-144034/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/12943-img-20150226-144024/ I have already 3-4 pieces like this. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/12945-vid-20150226-143840/
  3. Thanks, i did that. Seems it's working nice now.
  4. hi, its the zetoff fan shroud, any advices for the fan config for this one?
  5. I printed two or three models without any problems after upgrading the firmware, on the next model it happened twice. its the heater error. im using the new fan shroud for more days and did not had any problems. I dont know did the downgrading firmware helped me or turning down the fan speed because i did both at same time. on the 2-10 layer i lowered the fan to 60-70% and the model printed well. Im woried about the sensors and the heater and i would like to follow the new firmwares too. i will maybe try to renew the firmware again, as i saw there is 15.02 out... and then il check the situation. Can you tell me when you see on the picture is the heater/sensor enough in the block? Thanks
  6. Hello all, today i got my first "real" problem with my UM2, it stopped and i got the Heater error. I have read somewhere that it could be that the heater and temperature sensor. Please take a look at the picture and tell me if its enough stucked in the heater block :/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/12912-img-20150224-225417/ I also saw it could be caused when using custom fan blocks, i'm using for ~15 days the zetoff fan block and i did not had any problems with it. I succeeded 1 print with lowering the fan speed. Please tell me what to do to get rid of the problem. Thanks in advance! Edit: and yes, i had the 15.01 firmware on my UM2 and lowered it to 14.12.1 and then succeeded the print.
  7. Thanks, i ordered today a test filament from them too if there be problems, its your fault! :-P Im trying first their e3d filament, after that i will order ninjaflex. Yea, their shipping costs are low. Cheers
  8. Hello, i plan to buy a ninjaflex filament, but when i want to order it my shipping costs are almost bigger than the filament itself.... I am from europe, does anyone know a trusty reseller of the ninjaflex filament? I found it on: http://www.makergeeks.com/ and https://www.lulzbot.com if anyone buyed from them and they are trusty then tell me please. Thanks in advance.
  9. this is really not good.... first the lines from infill are shown on the walls and second the nozzle is bouncing on the cooled down palstic. If there is a need for this then make it like a option to turn off or on. thanks
  10. Hello, on my last print i noticed that my UM2 is printing first the infill then the walls at new layers. is this a option or? It happened for first time. Thanks
  11. Yes, and after several restarts its the same. I figured out that when i use new function "pause" and then abort then its everything like before update. And this is because the printer retracts of the pause function. And even after finishing a print it doesn't retract back, the head goes to its 0 position and oozing. sux :( sorry cuz i call it retraction, i mean just the "pull back" of the filament, not the retraction like in the printing process.
  12. Hello, I have noticed that my ultimaker dont retract filament after aborting a print. I had a issue and stopped the print. When i started the print again i noticed that the feeder skipped because (if you remember) the printer is on the first second speeding up the feeder and then when the filament comes to nozzle it reduces the speed on the normal value. Other thing from same problem, the nozzle is always oozing because the filament is in the nozzle and not retracted (i mean alot of oozing). Sorry for my english, if you dont understand i can record a video. Can i downgrade or something? Thanks in advance
  13. Hello all, i noticed strange lines on my print, i did not had this before. What could be the reason for those lines? (in every letter you can see the lines) Thanks in advance
  14. Looks like bad bed leveling. Level again the heatbed and try to increase the temp by 10°C. I had similar problems and solved them like i wrote. Good luck.
  15. hello and sorry if i make grammar errors.... i did the same thing (vapor finish) on my electrical oven. I used a normal glass gallon and set the "burner" at 0.5 http://media.technicmarket.rs/2012/09/Alfa11.jpg <--- after few minutes of heating the gallon i put the model in the gallon and was waiting another 1-2 min and got this... http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/12116-robot-bijeli-2/ just opened the window in the kitchen, (not needed if you vaporize only 1 object) (got a bit dirty lol)
  16. Hi, you said you use the ColorFabb filament, is this the XT white or normal white? If its XT then you should rise the temp to 240°C-250°C
  17. Hello, thank you for the answers. I though there is only pla and abs, from the temperature i though that is abs, thanks for correcting I reduced the blobs a bit by increasing the traveling speed, lowering the material flow to 100% and decreasing the temp to 240°C. I tried the retraction settings on the machine but nothing changed. I don't really understand the option "minimal extrusion before retracting" in the expert config? This could maybe solve this problem? Thanks
  18. Hello everyone, yesterday i changed my filament to ABS colorfabb xt white (first time abs), but i had the same problem on PLA also. Every time when the printer using retraction and traveling to the next part there comes a little bit of plastic through the nozzle and it creates bubbles on the other part, i though that is ok and it wasn't that hard to remove them. But from time to time its more complicated to remove them and i want to ask is there a way to completely avoid them? https://www.dropbox.com/s/vs5hqpq5momqrho/DSCN1232.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/17b4efueppkr4dx/DSCN1234.JPG?dl=0 Model printed with 0.1 mm layer height, 40 mm/s speed (later dropped to 80%), bed 90°C, temp 250°C (later dropped to 240°C - what is the minimal for xt white). PS. i broke the rules, i tried to play with the fans and i got the best result at 100% fan speed, i read everywhere about turning off fans but i had weird curlings on the overhangs so i turned them up. On the last pic there are shown some "burned" areas, don't know the reason for that... https://www.dropbox.com/s/lbfwtilfutrl20j/DSCN1238.JPG?dl=0 Thanks in advance.
  19. It's not really old, 1.5 month already, still didn't printed out the first filament. I will try it with bigger shell thickness. I dont know if this is a big problem for the quality, but i have the filament grinding problem since the first print. I updated the firmware but nothing changed. https://www.dropbox.com/s/kzo93fm4zx4d64l/DSCN1197%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/9f9llyc47ktk1jv/DSCN1198%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 Thanks
  20. Hello sir, thanks for the fast answer and sorry for my slow answer, i wasnt available last days.... ok, LH is layer height, but instead 0.1 mm and 0.15 mm i accidently wrote 1 and 1.5. shell thickness is always around 0.4 mm. Retraction speed? huh, didnt even know that i can adjust it, it's just by me at the default retraction checkbox enabled. I found your options in the expert mode and they are the default too, 1.5 mm minimum, 0.02 min extrusion, combing enabled. At 1st pic, i didnt configure anything, cura sliced it that way (but it had not a lot infill and the new layer didnt started every time at same point). Sorry if i wrote it wrong, some heights are starting on the other side of the model, not really inside. In pic 2, again i dont know that i can even print a model with different layer heights, at same time. But, its the same layer height, i currently dont remember, but maybe i rised a bit the temperature, that could be the reason for the different heights. I just noticed that the printer after retraction need some time to extrude the same amount like before retraction, you can see at pic 3 that the whole wall is underextruded. The house model is printed at 25 mm/s. Sorry, but my english is not great Thanks
  21. Hello and sorry for starting a new topic about underextrusion. My underextrusion problems appear on parts of the model where the printer is using retraction and when its coming back. Every wall is after retraction is underextruded. The next underextrusion problem when the printer starts the walls of a new layer, every start of a new layer is underextruded.... Take a look at the pictures please: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5jj9wf4qju0xwf3/DSCN1160%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ay6owd60q10qv7l/DSCN1162%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/pwml0vonmowc260/DSCN1163%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/2yy2l2o66vxnmx1/DSCN1165%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 As you see the other part of the model is really nice. What can i do for this problem? PS: z-hop was enabled with 0.075 LH was 1mm and 1.5 mm, temp was 210-230, speed was 50mm(1-2 pic) and 25mm/s(3-4 pic) Thanks in advance.
  22. Dunno in what section to open this thread... but doesnt matter. I would ask the developers to add the "current layer" info to the UM2 LED screen (if this is even possible with a new firmware... That would be really nice to have a better orientation for the print Greetings! :smile:
  23. Hello, can someone please tell me what to do if only one part of the model is underextruded?? On this 3 pictures you can see the problem: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tl53cj0hayn8f5o/DSCN1068%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/l7ggkl8e0vbeh4o/DSCN1069%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/qqvaklzy97ghoao/DSCN1070%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 On the fourth picture can you see strings which the printer leaves after repositioning.... shouldnt be there (ok its not a big problem to remove them). https://www.dropbox.com/s/0vbg3oi7o990gi0/DSCN1074%20%28Large%29.JPG?dl=0 Would zhop help? in cura i set the print speed at 80mm/s what was too fast when i started to print. On the "tune" options i lowered the speed to 35% whats about 25mm/s, LH is 0.25mm, normal nozzel 0.4, i tuned the temp to 230° (i tried it lower but the model isnt big and any speed is "fast" for the tiny walls). Thanks in advance Edit: PS: At the underextrudion point starts the printer the new layer.
  24. Hello, min travel is 1.5, combing is enabled (didnt even know what it is so i didn't change it), zhop is 0.075. yes, it was the infill, but before he printed it always like 0:7-0:9. btw, later on, after ~20 layers it printed always like on 0:7-0:9. I was just worried that such steps arent good for the motors.
×
×
  • Create New...