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kristoffer

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Everything posted by kristoffer

  1. I deactivated active leveling. Everything is fine now. I don't really see a need for it anyway. There are 3 screws to adjust. Set it and forget it!
  2. Version 1.0

    743 downloads

    Cartoon protein models
  3. So I have problems with the surface quality of my model where the PVA intermediate support touches the PLA model. The layers of PVA overlaps the outer wall of my model, creating tiny lines in my model when i wash the PVA away. The results is like as the PLA model was printed with under extrusion. I need some kind of way to create a distance between the PLA and PVA in the intermediate support X/Y distance.
  4. Ok. So if I just do a manual leveling, and switch off the auto level, then when I print, the printer should not adjust the z axis during the print at all?
  5. I printed this model with orange PLA and with PVA support, but as you can see, i get these layer holes in the lines and a rought surface. This is normally not present while just printing PLA, and I guess it could be the support interface PVA that is overlapping into the model. What setting should I use to make more distance between the PVA and the PLA. Or is it another issue?
  6. Version 1.0

    739 downloads

    Protein model printed in PLA with PVA support on UM3
  7. Is it possible to turn off the automatic leveling, not the initial leveling before printing, but the correctional z-axis adjustments that happens while printing. How can I adjust the nozzle height z-axis setting for the automatic leveling. My nozzle is too close to the bed after automatic leveling and nothing can extrude when it prints. When the print starts, i can adjust the bed screws but soon the screws will be too turned all in. Best regards Kristoffer
  8. I have printed some models with ninjaflex on my UM2. Yesterday i printed a model of a lysozyme molecule, which is probably the most complex printing, since the shape needs a lot of support due to overhang, and the shape is so organic and with tiny details. I print at 220-235 °C depending on the model type and sice, 50 °C bed, from 5-10 mm/s, 0.1 mm layers. 0.8 walls and 0.6 top/bottom. I have swapped the bowden tube with a 1 mm wider ID tube, and don't use any oil. The feeder is Roberts modified feeder. Retraction is a big no-go since any clogs caused by the retraction will just stop the material. If the temperature is too high, the material will carbonize in the hotend and cause a clog, so i would recommend you try to start at 220 °C and go as slow as possible. You should do the atomic method with PLA for cleaning the hotend until the PLA material comes out completely clean, and change the PTFE coupler for a new one before starting. If you begin to clog up in the start, just stop and do the atomic method again until you get a smooth start. Other than that, just go slow and at as low a temperature as possible.
  9. Hi I have 2 UM2 machines, one bought spring 2014 and the second bought autumn 2015. Both have the same firmware but the latest model is printing/moving ~50 % faster than the older. I have reset both printers and checked all settings. The gcode file is the same, and has been tested with the same SD card. I have no idea what causes the problem, but this issues does that I can't print with the same settings. I've also done the extrusion test for the machines, and the older model can print 3 mm3/s fine, but the newer fails the test right away. Both with new nozzles/PTFE couplers (And the iRoberts feeder and spool holder) Any help on how to fix this issue - namely the speed difference.
  10. Have anyone tried surface treatment of Ninjaflex?
  11. I have a 25 Mb stl file model loaded in Cura (15.01-RC3) If I try to use the function "Split object into parts" Cura freezes and becomes non-responsive
  12. The back fan is fine, the lights are fine and everything else. Only the side fans wont work.
  13. Hi I printed a 40 hours print over the weekend that came out fine. I tried to start another print, but noticed that the side fans didn't come on. The speed was at 100 % in the tune menu. I checked the wires and the green connection was broken. I fixed it, but when I tried to check the fans again, there was a noise like a short-circuit and it smelled like that too. I checked the wiring and they are as they should be. Is there a way to check the connections/main board, in case the problem is somewhere I can't see?
  14. Hey Jemma I have had numerous problems with jamming, but replacing the stock feeder with this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two will help a lot. Also print the friction less spool holder. Also - after every print - clean the nozzle using the atomic method.
  15. I like the support design with lines, but they just need to be supported properly by the raft. I tried using the brim instead, putting down 25% extra layer line width for the initial layer. This helps the raft stick better, and eventually hold the support better. The first support layer is horizontal lines whereas the rest is vertically (As viewed from above) It works, but the part of my print that do not rest on the support structure is printed directly on the platform, giving some instability when printing these parts (Usually small rounded edges of the whole stucture)
  16. So what I mean is, that the second layer on the raft is printed too fast using the newest version of Cura. Is it possible to adjust the print speed, in order to make it print the raft slower. (Other than manually adjust the speed)
  17. I have models with complex surfaces (Proteins) which have up to 2000000 faces (file size for the STL is 86Mb) and Cura can only handle 1 of these - so I'm not able to print more than one at a time. I'm on a Intel Xeon E5-2630 @2.4GHz, 32 Gb RAM, Nividia Quadro K4200, 64 bit win7
  18. Hej Jeg har brugt en UM2 nu siden Juni og har printet + 100 forskellige ting. Af opgraderinger har jeg lavet iRobertl feeder og low friction spoolholder. Begge er must have. Jeg har designet og printet en spole til løst filament, som jeg også bruger. PLA printer bedst med en heated bed på 60 °C og omkring 230 °C. Jeg printer typisk omkring 60 mm/s Et super tip er at rense extruder hovedet efter hvert print: Fjern materialet. Fjern bowden tuben fra hovedet. Varm op til 190 °C og stik et stykke PLA af den farve du vil printe med ned indtil den kommer ud. Skru ned til ~85 °C og træk så PLA stykket ud. Det vil fjerne gammelt og fastbrændt PLA. Gentag gerne 2-3 gange eller indtil det stykke du tager op er helt rent glat i siderne. Jeg har også printet med ninjaflex, det hjælper at smøre bowden tuben med lidt olie - jeg bruger mineralsk olie på spray med en meget lav viskositet. Print ved ca. 20 mm/s og omkring 220 °C.
  19. So I print a lot of organic looking structures, mostly proteins which need support structures. I have a lot of problem with the new raft in the later versions of cura. The 14.03 worked fine, and gave 2 layers of raft on which the support structure and the object itself were printed on. The later versions 14.09 use the wide spread first layer, then a very fast printed layer printed close together. The first layer sticks to the bed with no problems, but the second gets stuck to the extruder and leaves holes. Next there is 2 more layers, which barely sticks to the second layer. The overall construction is loose and unstable. The first part of my prints does not stick and usually breaks of. The optimal solution for me is only 2 layers, printed slowly and with the lines close together. How can I do this?
  20. Also, start printing the improved feeder - this works perfect: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
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