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Everything posted by axsdenied

  1. Ok, here is the best I could come up with. Not much red XT left to play with :smile: The results are quite good. I am using simplify3D. layer height: 0.2mm speed: 40mm/s extrusion multiplier 1.1 100% fill first layer speed: 66% outline underspeed 50% solid infill underspeed 80% temperature: layer 1 = 240C, layer 2 = 245C, layer 3 = 250C. glass plate at 75C (I measured the temperature of the glass plate with a thermocouple and it was roughly about 5C less than set on the printer). That 5 degrees made a huge difference. fan: layer 3 10%, layer 6 30%, layer 9 40% (note that I am using https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2 fan mount) retraction: 5mm @ 40mm/s x/y axis movement 250mm/s
  2. I did not see that thread, thank you. So the recommended replacement (MC25060V2-000U-A99) is performing less cooling, as I suspected. I wonder how much difference it makes? I will look into MC25100V2-A99. Fitting it may be tricky as my heater wire goes over the fan.
  3. Ah, my bad, than you for the correction. Late night and bad light :shock: The front fans have numbers DF0301012BM-501 while the back fan is DF0250705BU-501. The numbers looked the same last night but this morning it was a different story :smile: I am not sure if these are the internal part numbers as the UM2 spec sheet lists part number of the back fan as "1330-Z1P-B Fan 25x25". By the way, the UM2 spec sheet is not complete, it does not list RPM, air flow, noise etc. They only give dimensions and voltage/current which is not enough to identify a correct replacement. Anyway, back to my original though, I am not sure if the "compatible replacement" fan provides the same air flow as the original fan. Let me explain what I found out. DF0301012BM (side fans) means: 30 - frame size of 30mm 10 - thickness of 10mm 12 -12V B - ball bearing M - speed of 8000 RPM (educated guess by comparing to other fans) DF0250705BU (back fan) means: 25 - frame size of 25mm 07 - thickness of 7mm (actually this is 6.9mm as per drawing) 05 -5V B - ball bearing U - speed of 12000 RPM (educated guess by comparing to other fans) 12000 RPM would explain the noise levels, mine sounds like a jet engine :smile: compatible replacement MC25060V2-000U-A99: identical size (25x25x6.9mm) magnetic levitating instead of ball bearings. That would make it use slightly less power and possibly be slightly quieter (if at all). 10000RPM 2.2 CFM (0.062m³/min) If my suspicion is right, the replacement fan is 10000 RPM compared to the original 12000 RPM. While we don't have any air flow figures for the original fan, unless there has been a significant advancement in the design of fan blades, I would expect a significant reduction in the air flow over the original fan. And also a significant reduction in the noise levels as observed. The question is if it matters if the cooling of the print head is reduced... PTFE coupler will definitely not like reduced cooling. But before anything I need the verify the details about the air flow of the original fan. I could be very wrong... So, does anyone here have the air flow details about the original fan? Or should I contact support?
  4. Illuminarti, do you have the specifications of the original UM2 fan? I am a bit suspicious how the "compatible" fan could be so much quieter while pushing the same amount of air. The original UM2 fans (in my printer) have stickers with part number DF0301012BM-501. While I could not find the exact part number google reveals that DF0301012 is a 12V fan (last 2 digits are voltage) and the rest (BM...) only determines how fast it is spinning and hence how much air it is pushing. See for example here: http://www.comdall.com/en/product/31/View/80.html (I have also found multiple Chinese websites confirming the information) https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1330_Hot-end_Cooling_Fan_5VDC_0.08A_%28x1%29/B1330-Z1P-B%20Fan%2025x25.PDF says that the original fan is 5V, 0.08A. So, is the original fan 5V or 12V or 12V running at 5V? Is the part number on the sticker wrong? Do we have any details about the airflow of the original fan?
  5. I should mention that I did this several months ago, i.e. several versions of Cura ago. The latest version may be doing things differently. By the way, if you are printing such a large object, you may need a brim to prevent edges from lifting off.
  6. Remove skirt. That will add a few mm. Add a small brim. For some reason, Cura will let you print a larger object with a brim of 1-2 than without a brim. Change size of the build plate in Cura. I did this step in small increments and always printing the outline to see how far I can go without bumping into clips/wall. The object will be off-center as the printing head is not in the middle. If needed you can remove the clips and use something else to hold the glass plate.
  7. Thank you. Somehow I expected that answer. The mysteries of 3D printing continue :smile:
  8. Few questions regarding infill: 1. What is the best way to do 100% infill? For example, I can increase the number of walls (and hence have shorter/less "diagonal lines") or I can reduce the number of walls to 1 and use "diagonal lines" to do the filling? Does it make a difference regarding the final strength? 2. Does the shape of infill have effect on the strength? For example slic3r offers lines, concentric, honeycomb etc. 3. Is there a "magic number" of infill that gives higher strength than similar, slightly higher values? For example, at 25% infill Cura starts laying infill lines in one direction which changes every layer. Does this change have a significant effect on the strength, say compared to 24%?
  9. Will this avoid the head collision? How?
  10. Not sure if you are joking or trolling. Anyway, Colourfabb sells XT in two sizes: 750g spools XL 2500g spools The meaning of XL is quite clear. And if you still think that I am "assuming", have look on their website. The word "size" is clearly mentioned there.
  11. I am relatively new here and I am still catching up on knowledge scattered all over the forums but let me see if I got this right: When printing with PLA the PTFE spacer will deform and will need replacement after few hundred hours of printing. Mixing PLA and ABS/XT makes things worse as ABS/XT needs higher temperature. PLA requires PTFE spacer, otherwise it will stick to various other materials (people are trying various materials to overcome this). Stickiness is not a problem for ABS/XT. It may be a stupid question but here it goes anyway: Why not utilise the 2nd head space for ABS/XT and keep PLA on the existing place? The dual extruder is not happening in this form anyway. Switching between the two would just require moving the Bowden tube and a software adjustment. For ABS PTFE can be replaced with something like PEEK or even macor ceramic (as stickiness does not seem to be an issue). The new extruder can even be used for higher temperatures (if the heater can do the job). Macor would certainly take the heat and have an effectively zero coefficient of thermal expansion as well as having zero porosity. PLA will still have a problem but PTFE will last longer as it will be used only for PLA. My first PTFE spacer is likely gone and I am looking at alternatives. There does not seem to be a perfect solution, at least not at this stage. I do need to print PLA, XT and ABS.
  12. Thanks. I tried the atomic pull with XT about 10-15 times without success :-) The atomic pull of the blue filament, after pushing XT out, looked OK so it probably means that most of XT is out.
  13. Does anyone have the right temperatures for doing atomic pull on Colorfabb's XT? I have trying various temperatures (between 230-260 C when hot and between 90-130 C when cooled down) but I never get the "right shape" and there is always lots of filament left in the nozzle, like in the photo below. Red is two pulls with XT, then I used blue PLA and pushed out leftover XT from the nozzle and did another pull with it.
  14. Will try the new version. Thanks. Is this forum a good place to report bugs and ideas?
  15. I managed to countersink the holes a bit better without removing the heater cable (and the sticker). The cable is just long enough to reach outside the UM2 enclosure so I was able to do it with a hand drill. Unfortunately I did not measure the time but I would say it takes a bit longer before the printing starts now which would imply that more heat is transferred to the glass plate. I did measure the glass temperature and it is at least 5 degrees higher at the end of warming up phase than before countersinking. It still takes few more minutes before the glass reaches equilibrium. This may be an useful option in the firmware, to be able to set "delay time" between heating of the plate and the start of printing. Or an automatic pause until a button is pressed. I tried manually pausing it last night but it printed half if a brim before the actual pause. I know that with ABS and enclosed printer people manually heat plate and wait 10min so that the air in the enclosure warms up. Thanks again for the tip!!!
  16. Few small annoyances in Cura: Cura 14.12.1 (debian, amd64 and also Windows 7 32 bits): - Open STL file - Change view to Layers - Clear platform - Open STL file (same or different) The view is empty. Cura will calculate time etc, can even save gcode file but nothing will be shown until the view is changed to normal again. I can even change the printing parameters but still no preview until the view is changed. Another one (linux only): - From the main window pick any option to open a sub-window, for example open retraction settings. - Move the retraction window and position it so that it is overlapping the main window. When you finish the move and release the mouse button, the sub-window will pop behind the main window. This is quite bad especially if the main window is maximised to full screen as the sub-window will completely disappear. Another one (linux only): - Using tabs to move between options does not work properly. Open retraction window and try moving using tab. It gets "stuck" on "Enable combing". Firmware 14.12.1: - Start printing a large model. I was printing a 200x200 mm enclosure. - While 2nd (or 3rd) layer was printing (solid) I noticed that one corner was lifted off and I aborted the print. It took almost one minute for the printer to actually stop as it had to finish few lines which were quite long. Nozzle went down from 245 degrees (Colorfabb XT) to 130 degrees when the printer finally stopped trying to print. Of course printing solid plastic does not work and there was lots of clicking from the feeder stepper motor and the filament was completely ground. If possible the firmware should be changed to wait until the printing queue is empty before starting to cool down nozzle. No such problems on smaller models as the printer aborts quicker.
  17. Thank you for your replies. 1. The back of the glass is curved the same way... or is it the other way :smile: Anyway, it is concave on one side and convex on the other so glass is clearly "bent". Using the back would be even worse for lifting of edges as that way the space between the head and glass would be larger at corners. 2. Several screw heads are sticking out. This is a great tip as clearly the glass plate does not make a good thermal contact with the heater plate. I will countersink the holes a bit more but the difficulty is that removing the heating plate will void the warranty (need to remove the sticker)... or work in a really awkward position. This got me thinking so I measured the glass temperature using a thermocouple (I squashed it very well to get a good thermal contact). I set the plate to 70 degrees and when the UM2 told me that it was ready, the temperature on the glass was ranging between 35 and 45 degrees. It took at least another 5 min before it reached 65-ish degrees and stabilised there. So: - If temperature of the bed is critical (ABS, XT) I will wait few min after bed is heated up before starting a print. - Temperature seems to be 5 degrees off. I measured temperature of the build plate and it varies between front and back by 5-10 degrees (using IR thermometer as well to confirm). So the next step is a door... and a roof... Anyway, thank you again for your replies. This forum and people on it are the best help I have ever seen!!!
  18. After having issues with printing a large enclosure (200x200mm), eventually I noticed that the glass plate is not flat. In the direction of the width of the printer the middle seems to be almost 0.5mm lower than the edges. The biggest "dip" happens about 50mm from the edges which explains why I did not have problems with the smaller prints. The surface of the printed enclosure follows the curvature of the glass. It is difficult to see the gap between the ruler and the glass plate in the photo but if you zoom in, look around 100mm and 200mm mark (the gap is similar around 150 but not quite visible in the photo). In the other direction the plate is almost perfectly flat - this also rules out that my ruler is not straight. The printer is about a month old (bought brand new via Australian reseller). What to do? Is it worth chasing up warranty and with who? What kind of glass is it? Can I buy it somewhere local?
  19. Actually you can also buy 2.2kg spools of XT now. Cost is a different issue...
  20. You should also consider Colorfabb's XT filaments. They sit in between PLA and ABS in terms of temperature, toughness and printing difficulty.
  21. If you get it working properly, can you post all the settings here. I tried playing with slic3r but got scared and stopped experimenting after nozzle bumped the clip.
  22. Will try hotter and slower and report. At what height would you start the fan?
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