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  1. I wanted to let you know I think I've solved my issues. Here is what I've done. • I have no cover installed over my main board electronics (not sure if this is part of it though). • I recently had changed my ribbon cables and secured them away from each other. However they were longer than the original ones. • I decided to cut my ribbon cables to the length shown in the Ultimaker Master files. With that change I noticed the issue wasn't as bad. Maybe I was on to something. • I have 2 SD card readers, one conveniently on my office desk and another that I have to reach over to plug into my PC. One I purchased from China Aliexpress and the other locally. • I decided I'd try shielding my ribbon cables, so I wrapped them with aluminum foil and taped it in place. This led to the printer producing a 100% print. • I attempted to repeat this success and loaded another file to my SD card from my Aliexpress SD card reader. The print failed. Upon returning the SD card to the PC, Windows 10 report an error with the card and recommended repairing it. I did that. Reloaded the SD card, again using the Aliexpress SD card reader. Back to the printer and it failed in exactly the same spot the previous print had. • Next I formatted the SD card and instead used the locally bought SD card reader. Wrote a file to the card and proceeded to print again. Success! Another 100% print! • I have know determined that I have cured multiple issues. 1. The ribbon cables for some reason needed shielding. 2. The Aliexpress SD card reader corrupted the Gcode.
  2. Was this problem really ever solved? I've read through all 3 pages and I'm dealing with the exact same issue. I've tried a new SD card, separating the ribbon cables if there was indeed crosstalk. I'm using TinkerGnome 16.01ex. I can't print anything without failure. Pretty desperate to get this solved. Any help?
  3. no love for a cloner? or no idea what might be happening?
  4. Hello, I'm hoping someone might help me with a clone I built?? Please? The issue I'm having is randomly during a print the printhead will travel out to either the X or Y limit, then go back and return printing as if nothing happened. You can see in the attached photo the few times it did this. I also experienced a Y-axis shift but I'm confident I can track that down. I just finished building it. It has the 2.1.4 mainboard from Aliexpress. I'm running TinkerGnome 16.01. Not sure exactly what else I can add to help. Thanks in advance!
  5. After researching I found most are recommending 738 steps using the old UM2 motor with the new UM2+ feeder. I built myself a UM2 clone and installed the new UM2+ feeder with the old motor and I'm running TinkerGnome software. I'm still learning to dial it in but I was wondering if anyone would confirm 738 e-steps works well or has anyone found a better setting? Thanks All!
  6. Are these acceptable replacement transistors? http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/nxp-usa-inc/BC817-25,215/568-1630-1-ND/763457
  7. I was reading on the Google Ultimaker forums and a poster claimed the print base plate wasn't aluminum, but some special alloy. Is there any truth to this?
  8. Thanks gr5, that gives me a place to start researching and learning about these steppers.
  9. Quite disappointing no one answers this.
  10. Hello, I'm new to the 3d printing world. I like tinkering around with stuff. Currently, I'm trying to learn all I can about how these printers work. My question is what stepper motors are used in the UM2, for the X, Y, Z axis and feed? The reason I ask is there seem to endless different motor specs out there and the UM2 seems to spec out as printing quite precise, so I'm just curious. Thanks in advance!
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