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spirou

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  1. I'm actually here cause of a problem: After updating to 3.6.90 the printer is not recognised by Cura for network printing (LAN on MacOS 10.12). The printer shows a connected LAN-Cable and also has a valid IP-Address. The printer is pingable. After reading this, i'm going back to stable
  2. Yes, i use the actual firmware and it checks 3 positions with each nozzle. I started with a manually levelled bed, having done a test print with nGenFlex and than activated active bed levelling. The nozzles are not 0.5 mm above the surface. The process started with core 2 directly on the surface moving the bed up and up and up so the spring of the core are notably compressed and the bed was tilted, leaving a tangible dent in the BuildTak surface. Then it moves to the second test point leaving a visible scratch on the surface. This is repeated for all test points with each nozzle and than the process failed. I have lowered the bed and started active levelling again. This time the process went through, no compression of the cores spring, no tilting of the bed and the process finished successfully. Thanks Carsten
  3. UM3 + 3.5.3.20161221 Active Bed Leveling failed if BuildTak is applied to glas bed I have just received a BuildTak surface for better printing nGen-Flex and applied it to one of my glas beds. After manually levelling the bed I started active levelling - which failed constantly also leaving scratches and nozzle marks on the BuildTak. If i have manually levelled the bed, i have established a save offset from the beds reference point (i presume it is the middle back center) to the nozzles. So i think it should be possible to measure the levelling settings without touching the actual build surface. But this is not working or the bed levelling is implemented in another way so: How can I enter the 0.35mm offset the BuildTak puts on the thickness of the glas bed so i can use active bed levelling for my nGen-Flex prints?
  4. Discovered the same issue last weekend. The printer stopped feeding material at all but with me it was a bit different. The drive gear was not spinning freely on the axle it was only slipping forward and backward. I think grease got onto he stepper axle and lubricated a place that shouldn't. In my case the gear wanted to be as close to the stepper as it could get so I was able to print a little spacer to hold the gear in place. I had to pause the print once to reposition the gear. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spacer-bfea204e-7ccd-42e8-a199-dfaf2901bc72 is a little spacer to go between the drive gear and the stepper. Fits tight to the axle. - Carsten
  5. tl/dr: Nothing. Ok so to solve these questions/Problems: How does it work What is printable and what's not what materials do I use what software should I use. they created a WiFI, phone controllable, slicer, controller, printer spooler that is the solution to ALL of these problems. While this box might be a solution for a couple of not mentioned problems it does not address any of the problems mentioned at the beginning. As with any tool no matter if it is a hammer, saw or a 3D-printer you have to have basic knowledge about the capabilities and restrictions of that tool. If you try to manipulate any type of material you also have to have a basic understanding of the materials properties as well. They provide the tools so YOU CAN BE THE ARCHITECT - wtf An architect that has no basic knowledge about the material and processes he has to create designs for. Sounds legit. Just be creative - Carsten
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