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  1. Once I remembered that the compatibility check is located under the "Properties" selection, this worked perfectly. Thanks to all!
  2. Ditto. I finally grew frustrated with thrashing with settings, uninstalling, reinstalling, etc. and just put it on my macbook. Boom, done.
  3. Ok, you lost me at step 2. OP's issue is that 4.2.x won't start up in win10 -- how do you change general settings if the app won't load? I'm having the exact same issue. thanks!
  4. Ended up going with J-B Weld (Steel Epoxy), making sure not to short any traces. Rock solid connection and was able to finish my extruder upgrade w/o further issues. Problem solved.
  5. Installing the Extrusion Upgrade on my UM2 this morning. Everything went well until I removed the four screws holding the PCB in place. I supported in in place until the four screws were removed, but when I gently pulled it away, the four black plastic spacer fell away (expected) as did the four threaded metal standoffs that were attached to the PCB itself (definitely not expected). Continued the installation, but now I am stuck since the threaded standoff are no longer attached to the PCB. With soldering being the last resort, any ideas how to safely reattach the threaded standoffs to t
  6. Since you have 0% infill, you might try checking your model's wall thickness and make sure it is a multiple of your nozzle diameter. Default nozzle is 0.4mm, so best results for a 2-wall model would be approximately 0.8mm. If this doesn't match up, you can get some really odd results.
  7. Although I carefully re-leveled the bed using feeler gauges,I didn't think to rotate the glass. Part of the issue could have been that the front left was too high, but I successfully printed small test items in the problem area. It would appear this was a speed issue. As noted in my other reply, the tests were sliced in Cura and the problem piece was sliced in S3D. Thanks for the suggestion.
  8. The only filament I've used is PLA. This appears to have been related to the print speed, which in turn was related to the default S3D slicer settings for the UM2. Not surprisingly, Cura nails this setting (60 mm/sec), but S3D defaults to over 150 mm/sec. Everyone seems to rave over S3D, which is why I bought it, but I've been underwhelmed every time I use it. Thanks for your help!
  9. While attempting to print a piece that pretty much extends from the front to the back of the print area (with a few mm to spare), I'm getting uneven extrusion. The area within ~10 cm of the front left and perhaps ~5cm deep "fades" from no filament deposited to full/normal deposition across a region/arc about 5 cm in depth, as shown below: Any ideas? I've changed filament, re-leveled the bed, and re-sliced the file; but this problem still persists. Thanks in advance!
  10. That's exactly what I wanted to know. I think the whole kit is a great idea, but having just upgraded to the Olsson block & SS spacer in December, replacing it just isn't needed at this point. The feeder + motor, otoh, are of great interest to me. Thanks!
  11. Ok — mind officially blown — it never occurred to me to set shell thickness to a value less that the nozzle. 99% of my prints require two shells for strength, and since Cura doesn't seem to have a separate "number of shells" setting, I've always set shell thickness to 2x the nozzle diameter. Re-ran the layers view in Cura and it would appear that .7 is the max shell width that will work, but will run a couple of tests this evening. Thanks again for your help! I printed out 4 Raptor Reloaded hands ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1033475 ) over the long weekend using the 0.6 nozzle and
  12. Received my Olsson block upgrade kit and got it installed last week, but ran into an odd situation: I decided to test printing with the included 0.8mm nozzle by (re)printing the Nozzle Torque Wrench ( https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench ). I made sure that the nozzle size was set to 0.8mm in Cura and that infill was set to 100% as per the instructions. Print preview looked fine, but the "vanes" or "fingers" on the internal piece did not print. It this a case where the x/y thickness was just too small to be printed at .8 mm, or have I perhaps missed something else?
  13. I agree with the others in that there's too much space between the extruder and the bed. Personally, I think the "paper sliding" method is pretty terrible – paper is less uniform in thickness than most people think, and the idea that you should be able to feel when it's right is really tough for new users! Here's what I recommend: Go to your local hardware or automotive parts store and pick up a set of mechanic's feeler gauges ($5 US at Harbour Freight, but less than $10 just about anywhere). For the initial 1mm setting, put the .8 & .2 mm blades together, then adjust the bed heigh
  14. Just ran into this while prepping for the local maker faire... Started new print job, but when the bed raised, it stopped early and presented me with the dreaded temp sensor bed error. Powered down for 10 minutes then restarted. Everything seemed ok-- manually heating the bed worked fine and starting the print job began fine. Wasn't till the end of the print when I noticed anything wrong... The bed didn't lower, nor did the extruder home. The bed stayed at PLA temp and the control wheel was inoperative. Manually adjusting the bed temp was useless-- remained at 50c regardless of the dialed-i
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