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Everything posted by ccw1984

  1. A whole new UM2? How do I get in on that!? I've contacted support@fbrc8 about getting a new teflon spacer (on Feb 5) but have yet to hear back. I've been pouring over the forums, especially the thread on replacements/improvements for the coupler, the results with a vespel washer between the brass hot end and the PTFE look promising, I'd love to get my hands on one. Or something, anything that will last longer and let me print in ABS and PLA without having to worry about part failure. The glass impregnation should give the part more structural rigidity, so even if it has the same ther
  2. Aha, it was set to the default time of 5 sec, decreasing it to 0 changes the print time down to 1 hr 41 min (at 100 mm/s) so it is coming into play. Also it defaulted to "print one at a time", changing to print all at once decreased it to 1hr 39 min (100 mm/s). FYI, The plate of parts is from the UM2 Bearing Filament Guide (626 version).
  3. I didn't see a comprehensive thread to bring together issues with Cura 15.01 so I figured I'd create this one for anyone to comment on along with my own. I'll probably be reading through the other threads and either linking or describing the issues here. If there is one already please point me to it. Printing Time Calculation: I noticed that the printing time seems to be calculating oddly now. I loaded up a plate of parts at 50 mm/s and it shows a printing time of 2 hrs 0 min, 1.21 m, 10 gram. If I change the speed to 100 mm/s however the printing time only drops to 1 hr 54 minutes, same m &
  4. So, quick recap just to sum up who has and what we know about using the Flex3Drive (or other flex shaft projects) on UMO and UM2: foehnsturm - Flex3Drive working on UMO, original design for Merlin hotend mounting here. Bas van Deursen - Flex3Drive working on UM2, older version with 200 step/rev feeder?, required custom shaft for hobbed wheel. restinpieces - Custom flex setup, not working correctly with 400 step/rev UM2 feeder. Erik van der Zalm - Created UM2 Flex3Drive carriage here also includes custom firmware for UM2 for 200 step/rev feeder, installed and working?, hasn't commented here
  5. So I pulled apart the print head this weekend, and as I feared... That 30 hr ABS print did some damage to the PTFE coupler, the inner edge was pushed out and burnt, and inside there is a depression with red PLA still in it. What I imagine is happening is that at that point the PLA is warm enough to be soft and as the filament is passing through if any rough edge (from the knurled feeder) catches in that depression the force is enough to 'skip' the feeder. EldRick and I actually had the same idea (aside: I've purchased a Flex3Drive from him, so I'll be over on this thread soon), I ran
  6. Perhaps we can look into food safe coatings, ie. epoxy resins or such. http://www.masterbond.com/properties/food-safe-adhesives-sealants-coatings-encapsulation-compounds http://www.masterbond.com/tds/ep30hv http://blog.adafruit.com/2013/05/16/3d-printing-and-food-safety-3dthursday/ http://www.nanocare-ag.com/kunststoffe_edelmetalle/ http://www.actega.com/terra/products/foodsafe-coatings.html
  7. If you haven't already done so you should print IRobertI's improved feeder, or one similar. After installing it I haven't any any more issues with worn filament.
  8. I think you may have a similar issue to what is happening to my prints. Check out the link, but basically after switching from ABS back to PLA or vice-versa, if all of the plastic isn't purged well enough it either doesn't get hot enough to melt and extrude (ABS) or it carbonizes on the walls (PLA) because of the temperature difference when printing the two. Overall however what this really is doing is introducing more friction (in the way of pressure) into the system, which includes friction from the bowden tube, the filament/spool, teflon spacer, etc. all working against the force the feed
  9. Well, I obtained some http://www.amazon.com/Printer-CLEANING-filament-Makerbot-Printers/dp/B00O92RW92/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422282125&sr=8-2&keywords=eSUN+3D+Printer+CLEANING over the weekend and ran some through the printer by hand. It doesn't really to do atomic pulls well, the filament is rather soft and so far has always broken at the sharp temperature change in the Teflon coupler when trying. However after running ~15-20mm of the filament through I am happy to say that so far it has been printing much better with only a few feeder motor 'hiccups'. I think from now on I wil
  10. I tried multiple atomic pulls with the ABS filament I have (Gizmodorks transparent ABS) unfortunately: at 120 - 130C it either would NOT come out, or broke at the teflon connector without pulling anything out of the melt chamber. At 130-140 pulled out only a thin strand of ABS but nothing from the chamber walls like I was hoping. This ABS seems very brittle and will snap easily as I try to straighten it out for the atomic pulls. Also I noticed that as I push the ABS past the teflon insulator there is a slight bit of resistance at the base of it, where the teflon part terminates into the mel
  11. So far I've been having a great time with my Ultimaker 2, but recently ran into an issue and I think I may have figured it out, but wanted to share my thoughts, hopefully a successful cleaning process, and to bring together some info and theories on material swapping, underextrusion, clogging, and burnt PLA together for discussion. Background: Printed nearly the entire spool of PLA that came with the Ultimaker 2, decided I wanted a lampshade and got some translucent ABS for that. Printed a nearly 30hr print in ABS (along with a few smaller pieces), which went fine. I decided to switch back
  12. @twistx, @UltiArjan, @EldRick So does anyone have this up and running on their Ultimaker 2 yet? I would be interested in getting one if it's not too difficult to install and we have some success stories to back it up.
  13. I was having kind of the same issue, where the very first part of the first line put down on the glass would curl up and not stick then cool in that position and get caught on the second pass. I fixed it by using hairspray instead of the glue stick (IMHO it's better because it provides a more even layer and I can ensure all points where it will lay down a first layer will be sticky) and by leveling the bed REALLY well. Now it sticks the first layer to the glass every time with no problems (so far, knock on laywood)
  14. Those look great! And I'm glad it appears to have fixed your problems, hopefully it will work for mine as well. I was actually wondering what settings @gr5 is using though for his 30h long print with 109k retractions. I'm wondering if he has the stock feeder or perhaps IRobertI's upgrade. I think for something like that I would also put a small fan blowing on the feeder from behind to hopefully keep the shaft cool.
  15. Can you post your retraction settings, and any modifications to your UM2? I've just gotten started with mine and I am having the same issues with grinding during prints with retractions (and even on some without any), and with the filament and/or knurled wheel slipping off. I plan on printing and installing IRobertI's feeder this afternoon and seeing how it work. Also I will try messing around with retraction settings.
  16. I've gotten grinding 3 times in the last 3 days, only once on a print with a lot of retractions (Coral Cuffs on Thingiverse). I've touched the stepper feeder shaft before and it was pretty warm, possibly softening the PLA in there now, making it easier to grind. I'm going to give IRobertI's feeder a try and see how that works (if I can get it to print).
  17. I would recommend tightening the set screw in the knurled feeder (spiky metal part) at the very least as previously recommended, I have been having the same issues with the knurled sleeve coming loose, filament grinding, and with the filament slipping behind the feeder knobs (up against the back panel of the machine). Other than that the printer has been exceptional! I am hoping to print out and install IRobert's improved feeder design this afternoon. See http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/thread for details.
  18. Just reading about the fan speed and just wanted to point out that this: "By default cura will slowly ramp up the speed of the cooling fans until they reach full blast at a height of 5mm. This isn't bad per say but we prefer to start the fan up a bit sooner. A setting of 1mm seems to work well." might not be the case for newer versions of Cura. Mine started with the "Fan full on at height (mm)" at 0.5.
  19. Great guide! I'm reading through all of it now! One suggestion that pops to mind as I'm reading is to add something about supports to the 'Overhangs' section, and mention how Cura and other slicers (meshmixer, etc.) offer support options to help deal with overhanging parts. The level of detail on settings and such for overhangs could be left to other threads or your preference. Again, thanks for the guide!
  20. Hello everyone! Been reading through various forums, learning about 3D printing, and just purchased and received my Ultimaker 2 the other day. So far things have been working pretty much exactly as I expected, which is good! I've got some questions already, so hopefully I can start and contribute to some productive conversations on here!
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