sammo
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Posts posted by sammo
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I have 3 UM2's and they are all showing some signs of screen burn - one of the screens has become unreadable now so have ordered a replacement. ( after 2 years printing, pretty much 24/7 )
Does anyone know of a Custom GCODE string I can include at the end of a print to switch the screen off?
It looks like M117 will display a message, I was wondering if I display a blank message if that would have the same effect?
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don't cut anything (yet)!
do you have a heat gun - hairdryer - soldering iron?
You can use these to heat the excess pla from the outside. Heat the nozzle to 150 or so to get some play/movement on the inside of the blob. Be gentle around the wires, you can save them.. Slowly peel away as many as you can. Succes!
Thanks Peggy
The last time this happened, I figured it would be a good time to just upgrade the UM2 to a plus anyway, but that was a £400 bill.
I'll give it a go with an old soldering iron
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During a print overnight a couple of parts failed to stick to the bed and I've had the problem where excess material ( PLA/ PHA ) has blobbed around the print head. ( UM2 converted to a UM2+ )
This does happen from time to time (probably about once a year) but this time it's quite a bad case.
The PLA has wrapped itself around the base of the wires going into the head, so I think the only way I'm going to be able to remove the head is to cut the wires.
Is it a lost cause?
Do I need to order a new head/temp sensor?
I'll contact the suppliers Dream3D today for some advice, but I thought I'd ask here too in case it's something someone here has experience of.
Thanks for your time
Bri
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Success!
I think it was a combination of two factors causing me problems, firstly the tension on the extruder needs to be firm and secondly, with a full roll of the material it was coming unravelled slightly and wrapping around the spool holder.
Printed a pistol grip with 40% infill over 15 hours (checking regularly for the filament getting caught up) and it's come out very well I'd say.
Running at 260 degrees at 30mm/s I had a little bit of stringing between the open section at the top - Unfortunately I cleaned it up with a scalpel before I took the photo's so you can't really see. Running at a lower temp would help a little there but I'm not unhappy with the way it turned out.
40% infill and 1.2mm walls makes the grip fairly solid but still with a little give in it and it feels very nice to hold.
The slightly shiny finish on the black NGEN Flex and a combination of running at 260 has worked quite well to hide the layer lines (this was printed at 0.16mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle).
Anyhoo... I'm happy with it and I'll be experimenting some more.
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I discovered that the tension on my extruder was more towards the top than towards the middle of it's range. So I'm going to give it one more attempt with the extruder tension turned up some more and see if that helps.
I'd really love this stuff to work, the tests I've tried with it have been very encouraging.
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Just an update - I'm giving up with this stuff for the time being :(
After some good results with small parts, I thought I'd go for a bigger print (around 15 hours running at 30mm/s at 260 degrees)
It's failed at the same point 3 times now - it seems to be around the 2 hour mark where the material jams in the extruder.
What seems to be happening is that as the material is fed through the extruder it twists, and after around 2 hours it's twisted so much that it eventually coils and jams in the extruder.
This is in an UM2+
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Hi, I've been experimenting a little with nGenFlex.
So far, the only way I can get reliable bed adhesion is with BuildTak (which is what ColorFabb recommend). Using the S3D settings recommended by ColorFabb.
Head temp: 255
Plate temp: 85
Fan: 0%
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New coupler being delivered next day under warranty - now that's customer service! (Dream3D in the UK)
I'll wait till it arrives before I dismantle to check it's the coupler that's gone.
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It sounds like something is misaligned.
Either your bowden tube is misaligned and the filament is actually feeding to the side of the teflon tube or there is a significant lip on your Teflon tube that's causing excess friction.
When feeding the filament watch carefully that the filament passes through the teflon part (the white thing that touches the bowden)
Ensure that the bowden is slightly in the teflon piece. Note where the filament stops feeding and clicking begins. If it's a few seconds after the teflon tube, it's most likely the Teflon piece itself. If it is at the end of the bowden tube it's probably misaligned. It doesn't sound like it's making it to the heated nozzle part at all.
Thanks for the reply, I was wondering if it was the PTFE piece, since I'm well over 500h now on the original.
The printer has been running pretty much 24/7 for a couple of weeks and used every other day before that since November.
Everything has been perfect so far, but I decided to experiment by running a print at 100mm/s speed. I usually keep to around 40/50 but I thought I'd experiment.
The print quality wasn't great so I aborted the print after about 40 minutes, then tried printing again at a slower speed (back to 50 again) but that's when I noticed that filament wasn't coming out anymore.
So I'm thinking... disassemble the print head and check that everything is in order?
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Hi I hope you can help, I'm out of ideas and desperate.
The symptoms I have are that PLA/PHA no longer comes out of the nozzle, I just hear the feeder clicking.
What I've tried so far :
Stripping down the feeder and cleaning it out.
Using the Atomic method to clear any blockages.
While doing the atomic method, material comes out of the nozzle and when I cool it down to 90 degrees I can pull the filament back out with a conical end on the manually fed in filament, I can also see through the nozzle and it looks clear.
When I go through the change material option, filament is fed to the head (or at least as far as I can see) but no filament comes out of the nozzle and after a few seconds I get the feeder clicking again.
Any ideas of what I should try next?
I'd really appreciate some help, I'm stuck now?
Thanks in advance
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Just to update in case anyone else has a need to do this - Sharpie marker plus satin acrylic varnish does the trick nicely.
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Cheers drayson, I have some satin acrylic varnish, I'll give that a whirl.
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Cheers for the replies.
Not sure why it should be then - perhaps it's the filament? Tried a Sharpie marker first, let it dry for 24 hours and it still rubs off.
It doesn't rub off easily, but since it's on a dial that might be handled, after a while it does seem to rub off.
Printing the numbers in another colour isn't really an option based on the design and the amount of time it might take in finishing. (these are production items for sale so I want to limit the amount of labour involved in finishing the item).
I'll try some different filament and see if that makes a difference.
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I've made some replacement knobs with a dial including numbering and marker lines and printed in Robot Silver PLA. They look fantastic, but I'd like to highlight the numbers and lines in black.
I've tried a Permanent Sharpie marker, a Securline II Superfrost and a Staedtler permanent laundry marker but so far none of them leave a permanent mark. They all rub off fairly easily.
Is there anything else I can use? any tips for leaving a more permanent mark? (rough up the surface with a file perhaps?)
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Eyup, I'm new to the UM2 as well, but not new to 3D printing or 3D design. I'm only up the M1 from you in Donny, if you need a hand just give me a shout.
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Happy to Robert, I'll send you a PM.
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Just had a chance to take some photo's of the finished stock.
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That was modelled in Solidworks - I wouldn't say it was easy though
I need some more practice....After a couple of failed prints (my fault, the filament snagged a couple of times, but I've realised my mistake now - pull the filament from the outside of the loose spool, not the inside doh!)
11 more hours printing and I should (fingers crossed) have the final part. After some experimentation with the prototype parts I've decided that it's far too light, so I've added a 22mm hole in the grip so that I can fit a standard 22mm copper pipe section filled with lead into the grip, then I've added a flush fitting screw in end cap to hold it in place.
The top part of the stock is finished and fitted to the pistol, it's looking pretty good - in fact I've already had 3 people asking to buy one.
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That's what I thought - how hard can a lofted extrude with some swept cuts be? - erm.. lets just say, I have less hair now than when I started
Getting it to print with hardly any supports has probably been the most frustrating part.Really looking forward to seeing the output from the UM2 - test prints of small sections have come out very well indeed so far.
I'll post up some photo's when it's done.
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I'm having a go at my first 'long' print run - it's looking like it's going to take about 30+ hours of printing to print in 0.1 with 1.2mm walls and 25% infill.
It's an anatomical target pistol stock I've been meaning to design for a while, but I'm not great at 3D modelling organic shapes so having the UM2 available to run off quick prototypes that I can try out for size has been a really big help.
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Hi
After some investigation and recommendations from contacts in the commercial 3D printing sphere, I took the plunge and bought an UM2 last week and I've got to say, I'm pleasantly surprised at the quality of prints I'm getting.
I've been designing and selling 3D printed parts for about a year now, but I've been having the parts made up for me in laser sintered nylon.
The reason I bought a UM2 was purely to speed up the prototyping phase for new parts, but at least one of the items I sell comes out looking better from the Ultimaker!
I've had to tweak my designs a little to make them more FFF friendly (SLS Nylon doesn't require supports so there's more freedom with your designs) but the cost of producing items is at least 10 times cheaper for small items and much much cheaper for larger parts.
I bought my UM2 from Dream3D in the UK, ready assembled, adjusted and tested and unboxing/setting up for my first print took about 30 minutes.
So far a week in and I'm over the moon with the Ultimaker 2.
One of the reasons I chose the Ultimaker was because of the support available through this forum, so I thought I'd say hi and hopefully once I have a bit more experience I can contribute to the community.
I need some more practice....
UM2 screen burn
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Thanks for that, I'm a bit nervous about installing custom firmware - I've sent a message over to support at ultimaker - if it's not something that's supported at the moment, maybe it's something they could include in future firmware.