bigmouse

Well after a wait of over a week of no forum, I've spent a good hour on this new site, and have to say, this has to be the best example of the worse forum programming I've seen since the start of the www! Too many things wrong, awkward, non-intuitive, navigational nightmare, ugly, to even list! Will only come back in the future to get firmware updates.

I've had a few snaps with the coil on the floor! As you say, really annoying, especially on a long print! Just in case this happens again, If you see the break (you hear it snap) is there a successful way to save the print, like pausing and loading new filament?

Update: Everything working again! Good nozzle clean out and pass a decent amount of filament done the trick! Pause at height working fine now!

Thanks very much for the comments! Tommy, I think I will go with your suggestion! I tried last night, a couple of tests, where the nozzle had reached pause-at-height position and parked. Oozing but no problem but when resuming printing, the extrusion went ballistic, then wouldn't extrude at all! Temp was 197c (small test part). Rebooted the UM2 a few times, unblocked the nozzle (it wasn't really blocked but went through the motions) Even extracted the filament, cut and started fresh, still no good, no extrusion. Will have another look later today!

Duh, The X for delete was hidden! Ok now how to pause at layer number instead of height! Anyone?

Need to insert some nuts into a print. This is the first time for using plug-ins! Thought it would be simple like pause at height, but there is no pause at layer number only height in mm, Is that right? How would you do it? Secondly Tweak at z isn't really suitable for this, now after playing around, I have several plug-ins duplicated and can' find a way to remove them, any help? Thanks,

I rarely print faster than 40mm/sec Only go faster to print a pattern or something where finish is immaterial. Someone said on here, print slow, print cool, and its good advice! For PLA I usually run from 190 to 210c depending on cross section, and no violent jumps between printing speeds for shell and infill. Bottom layer speed try 20mm/sec, I even use 15mm/sec at times on smaller intricate parts

Thanks Bez, I can get that in the UK! Just ordered some! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ambroid-Pro-Weld-2oz-Blister-/111303260649?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19ea30f9e9

I've since used Gorilla glue, just a small smear on both surfaces, add a hint of water and lightly clamp together, while it is not welding, I found the joint to be very strong!

Can't help! sounds weird, maybe it is not PLA, (some packaging mistake) certainly doesn't sound like PLA! I have some colorFab pla and it prints just like any other PLA, try the PLA test, ie see how it burns compared to ABS

Did anyone ever come up with a real solution for this? I've used superglue on (ultimaker) PLA and its just rubbish! Tried zap a gap and thin, just no strength to it!

Using my UM2 any small holes print smaller than designed, and the percentage increases with the smaller the holes, at about 1mm the holes disappear but leave a dimple where the hole should be! Anything small, like for instance, small diameter spacers, need to keep the temps low, pla I use 190~195 else you end up with a bunch of toffee! I have to side with IRobertI on this one, trying to print any object that small, with any detail will lead to frustration!

I didn't say it can't be done! it depends on what precision of finish you are seeking! For me it isn't a contest of how complicated you can make a part in one printing session! Bridging hollows leave non precision surfaces! For prototyping, I am happier with printing these areas slightly over/under size and post machining to wanted tolerance, but guess that everyone has different aims with these machines regardless of make and model.

Getting someone else to print something isn't a very good way of evaluating the performance of any particular printer! By supplying someone with, or downloading a file, leaves the printer operator very limited on how he can position/print for the best results! For instance, your part has large hollows where the finish is going to be poor, to not too good!, If you were printing this yourself, you could for example, print it in two parts and glue together afterwards, which would make a very clean part. plus many other tricks

Yea, unfortunately the reason is usually money1

That looks a bit of a tricky shape, wouldn't expect under the arch to be perfect, but the upper side should be much better than that!, I would side with the few that said something is wrong with the printer/code. UM blue might not be the best pla, but its not that bad!

Too much hassle! Any other site you just download the stl model, use the default,or tweak the cura settings and let it print! To go your route, its register, download and instal some soft, use your soft for set up and tweaking, need to be online! What advantages are you claiming? I can see plenty of disadvantages...

200 microns is a bit on the coarse side, I would try 150 for a general print, and less like 100 if a better finish is required! You say 100 movement speed, is that printing speed? if so then its too fast, the 50 default is good, 40 mm/sec is even better and not much slower printing time! From your pic it looks like your top/bottom thickness is too thin! Or it might just be the speed your using! I use glue for pla, heated table for first couple of layers then turn the table off, seems to increase the adhesion!

Mine stalls most times removal and replacement when the filament is about half way along the bowden cable (even when I try to assist it along) Never used to happen, maybe it is a FW code change

PLA ok but prefers a little heat on the first layer. Only other I've used is PLA, but table needs to be very high remp, like 80~100c. Just wont stick else

No one has mentioned, right click the object>center on table Something I always do now, after having a couple of surprises of printing well off center

I just leave it on till the next print then give a wipe with paper towel just before the commencement of printing!(ie when the nozzle is over 190c)

You tried different brands of PLA but have you tried the ultimaker brand? they all come in different diameters! I have several colour pla here and no problem with printing! Only once did I get a nozzle blockage and that was when changing from abs to pla. When you change filament, after the machine retracts the old filament, there is often a very fine thread of filament left in the bowden tube, You can often see the end of this thread at the knurled driving gear, its easy to extract using a piece of wire with a tiny hook on the end.

Some sort of auto or easily switchable filament diameter Change the cantilever table for a more rigid system Dual Extruders, not interested in mixing colours, but like the idea of using desolvable supports

Hi! Using UM2 quite successfully for the short time I've owned it but this has got me really stumped! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:555242 Lower legs and feet no problem as the feet has a reasonably large base to stick to the platform! , 8 aborted attempts at the other parts! using grey PLA, tried brim, raft, support, a combination of all three, still no good, re-leveled the table, different temps, all to no availPrint moves sags you name it, I would say its all because of the small footprint contacting the table! Would be pleased if anyone could try printing a part, just to see if the UM" is having difficulty or whether its my settings!, particularly the head or hands, but all the other parts have failed so far with the exception of the lower legs/feet.