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tinkergnome

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Posts posted by tinkergnome

  1. First of all: don't use "Filament Change" for Ultimaker 2 (or newer) printers. It uses gcode M600 which is simply ignored by the printer.

    Use "Pause at height" instead (and mind the comments for "Extrude Amount"). During the actual pause use the material change function from the printer menu.

     

     

    37 minutes ago, reibuehl said:

    inspection of the generated g-code showed that nothing was inserted at the layer where I had specified the change

     

    That's a different topic - dunno 🤷‍♂️

     

  2. 4 hours ago, joeman1556 said:

    Within Settings for EXTRUDER 1 I set INFILL override to #2.

     

    The infill extruder is not defined per extruder, but per model (the same way as the assignment of the main extruder).

    According to the shown snippet - "Infill Extruder" should be selectable as a "per model setting".

     

     

    Quote

                    "infill_extruder_nr":
                    {
                        "label": "Infill Extruder",
                        "description": "The extruder train used for printing infill. This is used in multi-extrusion.",
                        "type": "optional_extruder",
                        "default_value": "-1",
                        "settable_per_mesh": false,
                        "settable_per_extruder": false,
                        "settable_per_meshgroup": true,
                        "settable_globally": true,
                        "enabled": "extruders_enabled_count > 1"
                    },

     

     

  3. 1 hour ago, JohnInOttawa said:

    Often when I do a pull successfully, I get two 'prongs' of filament on the very tip, I presume reflecting flow channels in the nozzle.  I have always worried that pushing a needle in the orifice would damage the internal structure.  Maybe a false worry?

     

    There's not much to worry about. A cut through an AA-nozzle looks like this:

    (as long as we're talking about Ultimaker print cores and not about 3DSolex matchless nozzles?)

     

    grafik.thumb.png.e4403df3b793707f5938d547b35064a5.png

    • Thanks 1
  4. 24 minutes ago, Kajautus said:

    this problem seems to be with Ryzen processors when ASUS motherboard is used?

     

    I think this statement is a bit too generic. I use Windows 10, an ASUS motherboard and a Ryzen processor as well, graphics card is from NVIDIA.... And Cura runs just fine.

     

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, friedl_basson said:

    I can stipulate the printing temperature when setting up the material in the "Manage Materials" sections.

     

    I see. These material settings are indeed not used at all for "Ultimaker 2" gcode flavor (and form only a "base-line" that is overridden by most of the profiles anyway...)

     

    1 hour ago, friedl_basson said:

    I have 0.4mm installed and would like to reduce temperature to ±205C for PLA

     

    Yep, change it on the printer (i think the menu entry is called "customize" (somewhere in the material settings).

     

    Or change the GCode-flavor in Cura to "Marlin". The latter gives you access to the material settings in the print profile and the start-/end-scripts as well. And the settings on the printer are not used anymore.

     

    Make your choice! 🙂

     

    • Thanks 1
  6. 8 hours ago, friedl_basson said:

    To my surprise I noticed the Nozzle Temp was printing at a staggering 240C as apposed to the 205 set in Cura.

     

    It should not be possible to set a temperature in Cura if the GCode-flavor is set to "Ultimaker 2". Which Cura version are you using?

    If you set it to "Marlin" (the first entry of the list) the hidden settings for temperatures and retractions become visible.

    BTW: The printer presents a warning if you start such gcode files. That means that the material settings on the printer are not used for this print. Since this is your intention - choose "continue".

     

    9 hours ago, friedl_basson said:

    I cannot see a reason (even though not adhering to the settings in Cura) why the machine would be printing at 240C with PLA loaded

     

    240C is indeed the firmware default for PLA and 0.8 and 1mm nozzles. Source:

    https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/UltiLCD2_menu_material.cpp#L1136

     

    This can be customized in the printers material settings.

     

  7. I think it is not necessary to duplicate the model. Simply select a different extruder for the cutting mesh (in addition to any other setting of you like) and you're done.

     

    Like in the following instructions:

     

    Quote

     

    "In the example below, we print the 3D model with extruder 1 and its print settings. We print the modifier mesh with extruder 2 and all its print settings. This allows adjusting the print profile per extruder which will be reflected in the 3D print."

     

     

    https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013370140-How-to-adjust-print-settings-of-a-part-of-my-model-in-Ultimaker-Cura

     

    PrintAsModifier-cuttingMesh.png

    • Thanks 1
  8. 12 hours ago, Captainboyer3 said:

    I would like to plug it probably up to the top of the threads so I can scale it down and then put an eyelet or something in to make a keychain out of it.

     

    You started this topic in the Cura section, so the first answer is: you can't do this with Cura. Cura is not a CAD program.

    I think there is no quick and easy way. The solution is to pick a CAD program of your choice and learn how to use it.

    Some were mentioned before:

    • Blender is designed to work directly with meshes (like stl files), but better suited for visualization than for 3D printing
    • FreeCAD can import and export stl files
    • Fusion360 is free as well (for personal use)

    There are plenty of free tutorials for all three of them.

     

    If you're only interested in this single part and modification, i would ask a moderator to move this request to another section (like https://community.ultimaker.com/forum/119-design-for-additive-manufacturing/),

    to get more attention ('cause it's not a Cura question after all).

     

  9.  

    On 1/6/2021 at 8:00 AM, twnismo said:

    The settings I'm using which provided a slightly better results in the pictures is below.

     

    10 retractions (at max.) for 6mm length of filament is way too low... (even for 1.75mm filament).

    Allow at least 10 retractions per millimeter - that's a more reasonable ratio.

     

    Have you tried the suggestion from @GregValiant?

     

    On 1/12/2021 at 1:07 AM, GregValiant said:

    Increase the Max Retraction Count up to 100.  This falls under "can't hurt".

     

     

    And always check the preview for travel moves without retraction. No need to actually print it, if you already see dark blue lines in the preview. Choose "Line Type" and enable "Travels".

    Travel lines in light blue are with retract, the darker ones are without retract (like in this example):

     

    cura_travel.png.7b983de51b27aa40003c096b

    • Like 1
  10. 1 hour ago, zerspaner_gerd said:

    wenn "G28 Z" mehrmals in einen gcode ausgeführt wird, wird dann die Z-Achse auch so abgenullt/neu pos. gesetzt, wie das erste mall? Das fragte ich mich wo ich den gcode umgeschrieben hatte.

    Oder wäre es besser die Z-Achse mit "M84 Z" zu deaktivieren und dann "G28 Z"?

     

    Ich glaube, das kommt drauf an... 🙂

     

    Wenn getestet werden soll, ob der Motor Schritte verliert, würde ich das G28 überhaupt nicht mehrmals ausführen, sondern einfach auf Z200 und dann wieder hoch (oder so...).

     

    Wenn der Endschalter getestet werden soll, ist es wahrscheinlich egal. Es wird ja immer erst ein paar Millimeter vom Endschalter weggefahren und erst danach mit einer definierten Geschwindigkeit drauf (zweimal). Beim zweiten Mal ist Fahrweg und Geschwindigkeit immer identisch. Da sollte es ziemlich egal sein, in welchem Zustand das System vorher war.

     

  11. Nice model 🙂 i hope the content is not confidential or such...

     

     

    The stl-file contains a composition of 250 separate objects (just in case this was not intended).
    It seems like every screw and every "tooth" is a separate solid.

     

    Which part is to be considered as the "lower part"? The part with the screw thread?
    What about the three connected "channels"? Do you want to remove those as well?

     

    Those kind of modifications can going to be quite hard if you only have the stl file...

     

     

    image.thumb.png.35f8e4951c355f532e63bc6b9c4341e3.png

     

  12. On 1/4/2021 at 10:41 AM, ACCSisko said:

    Keine Ahnung an was es sonst liegen könnte, ich hab grad vorher nen Druck gestartet, da war die Düsse schon fast am Druckbett dran, gestern keine Probleme gehabt, ich glaub langsam entweder hat der Motor was oder das Gewinde pfuscht mir rein.

     

    Nur mal so als Idee...

    Wenn "unten" alles in Ordnung ist... bewegt sich vielleicht "oben" irgendetwas (Düse, Heizblock, Druckkopf)?

     

    Sind die Führungsstangen vom Druckkopf alle noch fest in den Slider-Blöcken eingerastet und die Lager in Ordnung (Druckkopf kann sich nicht "verdrehen" oder so)?

     

    In der Testdatei von @zerspaner_gerd findet keine Filament-Bewegung (Retracts) statt. Nicht das am Ende am Druckkopf oder Olsson-Block etwas lose ist und sich beim Druckstart erstmal irgendwie "zurecht ruckelt"?

     

    Der UM2+ hat ja keine Feder mehr über dem Düsenblock - da darf zwischen Bowden-Schlauch und Düse kein "Spiel" sein.

    Prüfe bzw. beobachte mal, ob das alles "unverrückbar" ist. Aber vorher abkühlen lassen... 🙂

     

    • Like 1
  13. Die Modelle sehen aus, als wären sie eher für SLA-Drucker gedacht.

     

    Ein S5 ist dafür nur bedingt geeignet, mit einem Direct-Drive FDM-Drucker könnten solche Modelle etwas besser funktionieren, aber im Prinzip ist das für diese Drucktechnologie eher ein Härtetest.

     

    "Tough PLA" ist vermutlich auch nicht die beste Wahl, das "schmiert" zu sehr. Hast Du es mal mit "normalem" PLA versucht?

    Wenn dann noch ein AA 0.25 Printcore benutzt wird, könnte das schon besser aussehen.

    Auf jeden Fall langsam (alle Druck-Geschwindigkeiten max. 30 mm/s) und so "kühl" wie möglich drucken.

    Die Zeit pro Layer darf nicht zu kurz sein - also (wie schon vorgeschlagen wurde) - einfach mehrere Figuren gleichzeitig drucken, oder einen "Dummy"-Turm daneben stellen, damit die kleinen Flächen zwischendurch Zeit zum Abkühlen haben.

     

    Hast du noch den Link zum Modell im Thingiversum?

     

    • Thanks 1
  14. On 1/9/2021 at 4:18 AM, Runt8 said:

    The attached "Cura 4.3.zip" file contains all the relevant (I think) files from the Monoprice version of Cura.

     

    I think the according "quality" files are missing (at least). It claims to have some machine specific profiles:

    "has_machine_quality": true

     

    The quality files in your attachment are the default (generic) files from Cura - don't overwrite these.

    The same goes for the fdmprinter / fdmextruder files - don't change those, let your definition inherit from the newer files of Cura 4.8.

     

    There's a chance that it has it's own material files too, all generic materials are excluded in the definition. This may be specific to your customized Cura version, but check the materials folder as well (just in case).

     

    If you remove the settings "has_machine_quality" and "exclude_materials" from mp_base.def.json the standard profiles and materials become usable.

     

    Hope that helps!

     

    grafik.thumb.png.91e0c013e5d80bde98a5f8a0f12d0432.png

    • Like 1
  15. I bet it's there - but the floor space of your house is only 1x1.5 (mm) - the height is 2.3mm (chimney included) - it seems to be some kind of a tiny house... 🙂

     

    The size is shown in the lower left corner of your screenshot, but it is not readable (i guess the forum software scales large pictures down).

    It should be possible to select the object with CTRL+A - afterwards you can use the scale tool. A scale factor of 2000 or 4000 percent gives it a printable size. 1

     

    While we are at it: there are some overlapping vertices and the normals of some faces are pointing inwards.

     

    grafik.thumb.png.c4c82c4c4804ceb3474233e7e8fc808b.png

     

    I changed the units to mm and scaled it a bit:

    simple_house.blend.zip

     

     

  16. 7 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    Meinst du die gelbe Linie links? Das wird die Purge oder Prime Linie sein um die Düse startklar zu machen.

     

    ...und das stammt aus dem Startskript (findest Du in Cura in den "machine settings"). Das kann dort auch geändert werden.

    Es müssten genau genommen zwei Linien sein, die jeweils 180mm lang sind.

     

    Das wird erst beim Speichern der gcode-Datei hinzugefügt und kann deshalb im "Preview" noch nicht sichtbar sein.

     

    Ausschnitt aus dem Creality Startskript (mit Kommentaren):

     

    G28 ;Home
    
    G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
    G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
    G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
    G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
    G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
    G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
    G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
    

     

    • Thanks 1
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