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Posts posted by tinkergnome

  1. 15 hours ago, Otsuka said:

    There's a bit of floating part at the top of the inside pot.

    Although I ticked a support, the support will only be applied to the outer part

    so the inside floating part has lots of strings which looks very messy.


    What exactly is the meaning of "inside floating part"?
    If you can share a picture or the Cura file, you will probably get more specific answers.


    To start somewhere: there's a comprehensive chapter about all support settings in the Cura manual:




  2. Es gab auch mal Glasplatten, die nicht richtig eben waren - dann stehen die Chancen schon schlechter...

    Im Normalfall braucht es sonst für PLA tatsächlich keinerlei Zusätze. Das Glas muss aber absolut sauber und fettfrei sein. Allgemein bewährt hat sich: vor jedem Druck ein fusselfreies Papiertuch (Küchentuch) mit Isopropanol tränken, Glas säubern und dann nicht mehr berühren.


    Wenn sich das Material an der Düse wieder hochzieht, liegt es auch manchmal daran, dass die Düse verschlissen ist. Also auch mal eine neue ausprobieren.


    Der "richtige" Abstand ist für den ersten Layer halt sehr wichtig. Fotos vom Druckbild könnten helfen. Vielleicht muss einfach alles dichter zusammen? Direkt auf Glas erfordert einen kleineren Abstand als auf Bluetape.

    Hier gab es auch mal Bilder, wie es aussehen soll:



  3. 4 hours ago, reibuehl said:

    It is actually inserted before ";LAYER:802", two layers earlier than I expected it. I guess the plugin and Cura have a off-by-one issue where one starts counting from 0 and the other starts at 1.


    Yep. Layer numbers in (Cura generated) gcode files always start with index zero. So ";LAYER:0" actually marks the first layer and so on. And (i think) most of the post processing scripts insert their stuff before the layer starts. So it should better be named "Pause before layer" or such... 🙂


    4 hours ago, reibuehl said:

    Regarding the "Extrude Amount" setting: The help for that parameter talks about 128mm for an UM2. That sounds a lot since the change procedure of the printer already ensures that the filament is transported to the nozzle. Do you use such a high value?


    Me personally? Nope. 🙂


    The change procedure retracts the material to the "end-of-print" position after completion. That's 20mm by default. In addition: with gcode-flavor "Ultimaker 2" all extruded values are interpreted as volumetric amount. For filament diameter 2.85mm and 20mm length the volume is approx. 127.6mm³

    That's where this number comes from.


    So... it depends. For default firmware and default gcode-flavor: 128 is about right. For all other cases... use whatever the end-of-print retraction is set to.

    Good luck!



  4. First of all: don't use "Filament Change" for Ultimaker 2 (or newer) printers. It uses gcode M600 which is simply ignored by the printer.

    Use "Pause at height" instead (and mind the comments for "Extrude Amount"). During the actual pause use the material change function from the printer menu.



    37 minutes ago, reibuehl said:

    inspection of the generated g-code showed that nothing was inserted at the layer where I had specified the change


    That's a different topic - dunno 🤷‍♂️


  5. 4 hours ago, joeman1556 said:

    Within Settings for EXTRUDER 1 I set INFILL override to #2.


    The infill extruder is not defined per extruder, but per model (the same way as the assignment of the main extruder).

    According to the shown snippet - "Infill Extruder" should be selectable as a "per model setting".




                        "label": "Infill Extruder",
                        "description": "The extruder train used for printing infill. This is used in multi-extrusion.",
                        "type": "optional_extruder",
                        "default_value": "-1",
                        "settable_per_mesh": false,
                        "settable_per_extruder": false,
                        "settable_per_meshgroup": true,
                        "settable_globally": true,
                        "enabled": "extruders_enabled_count > 1"



  6. 1 hour ago, JohnInOttawa said:

    Often when I do a pull successfully, I get two 'prongs' of filament on the very tip, I presume reflecting flow channels in the nozzle.  I have always worried that pushing a needle in the orifice would damage the internal structure.  Maybe a false worry?


    There's not much to worry about. A cut through an AA-nozzle looks like this:

    (as long as we're talking about Ultimaker print cores and not about 3DSolex matchless nozzles?)



    • Thanks 1
  7. 24 minutes ago, Kajautus said:

    this problem seems to be with Ryzen processors when ASUS motherboard is used?


    I think this statement is a bit too generic. I use Windows 10, an ASUS motherboard and a Ryzen processor as well, graphics card is from NVIDIA.... And Cura runs just fine.


    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, friedl_basson said:

    I can stipulate the printing temperature when setting up the material in the "Manage Materials" sections.


    I see. These material settings are indeed not used at all for "Ultimaker 2" gcode flavor (and form only a "base-line" that is overridden by most of the profiles anyway...)


    1 hour ago, friedl_basson said:

    I have 0.4mm installed and would like to reduce temperature to ±205C for PLA


    Yep, change it on the printer (i think the menu entry is called "customize" (somewhere in the material settings).


    Or change the GCode-flavor in Cura to "Marlin". The latter gives you access to the material settings in the print profile and the start-/end-scripts as well. And the settings on the printer are not used anymore.


    Make your choice! 🙂


    • Thanks 1
  9. 8 hours ago, friedl_basson said:

    To my surprise I noticed the Nozzle Temp was printing at a staggering 240C as apposed to the 205 set in Cura.


    It should not be possible to set a temperature in Cura if the GCode-flavor is set to "Ultimaker 2". Which Cura version are you using?

    If you set it to "Marlin" (the first entry of the list) the hidden settings for temperatures and retractions become visible.

    BTW: The printer presents a warning if you start such gcode files. That means that the material settings on the printer are not used for this print. Since this is your intention - choose "continue".


    9 hours ago, friedl_basson said:

    I cannot see a reason (even though not adhering to the settings in Cura) why the machine would be printing at 240C with PLA loaded


    240C is indeed the firmware default for PLA and 0.8 and 1mm nozzles. Source:



    This can be customized in the printers material settings.


  10. I think it is not necessary to duplicate the model. Simply select a different extruder for the cutting mesh (in addition to any other setting of you like) and you're done.


    Like in the following instructions:




    "In the example below, we print the 3D model with extruder 1 and its print settings. We print the modifier mesh with extruder 2 and all its print settings. This allows adjusting the print profile per extruder which will be reflected in the 3D print."






    • Thanks 1
  11. 12 hours ago, Captainboyer3 said:

    I would like to plug it probably up to the top of the threads so I can scale it down and then put an eyelet or something in to make a keychain out of it.


    You started this topic in the Cura section, so the first answer is: you can't do this with Cura. Cura is not a CAD program.

    I think there is no quick and easy way. The solution is to pick a CAD program of your choice and learn how to use it.

    Some were mentioned before:

    • Blender is designed to work directly with meshes (like stl files), but better suited for visualization than for 3D printing
    • FreeCAD can import and export stl files
    • Fusion360 is free as well (for personal use)

    There are plenty of free tutorials for all three of them.


    If you're only interested in this single part and modification, i would ask a moderator to move this request to another section (like https://community.ultimaker.com/forum/119-design-for-additive-manufacturing/),

    to get more attention ('cause it's not a Cura question after all).



    On 1/6/2021 at 8:00 AM, twnismo said:

    The settings I'm using which provided a slightly better results in the pictures is below.


    10 retractions (at max.) for 6mm length of filament is way too low... (even for 1.75mm filament).

    Allow at least 10 retractions per millimeter - that's a more reasonable ratio.


    Have you tried the suggestion from @GregValiant?


    On 1/12/2021 at 1:07 AM, GregValiant said:

    Increase the Max Retraction Count up to 100.  This falls under "can't hurt".



    And always check the preview for travel moves without retraction. No need to actually print it, if you already see dark blue lines in the preview. Choose "Line Type" and enable "Travels".

    Travel lines in light blue are with retract, the darker ones are without retract (like in this example):



    • Like 1
  13. 1 hour ago, zerspaner_gerd said:

    wenn "G28 Z" mehrmals in einen gcode ausgeführt wird, wird dann die Z-Achse auch so abgenullt/neu pos. gesetzt, wie das erste mall? Das fragte ich mich wo ich den gcode umgeschrieben hatte.

    Oder wäre es besser die Z-Achse mit "M84 Z" zu deaktivieren und dann "G28 Z"?


    Ich glaube, das kommt drauf an... 🙂


    Wenn getestet werden soll, ob der Motor Schritte verliert, würde ich das G28 überhaupt nicht mehrmals ausführen, sondern einfach auf Z200 und dann wieder hoch (oder so...).


    Wenn der Endschalter getestet werden soll, ist es wahrscheinlich egal. Es wird ja immer erst ein paar Millimeter vom Endschalter weggefahren und erst danach mit einer definierten Geschwindigkeit drauf (zweimal). Beim zweiten Mal ist Fahrweg und Geschwindigkeit immer identisch. Da sollte es ziemlich egal sein, in welchem Zustand das System vorher war.


  14. Nice model 🙂 i hope the content is not confidential or such...



    The stl-file contains a composition of 250 separate objects (just in case this was not intended).
    It seems like every screw and every "tooth" is a separate solid.


    Which part is to be considered as the "lower part"? The part with the screw thread?
    What about the three connected "channels"? Do you want to remove those as well?


    Those kind of modifications can going to be quite hard if you only have the stl file...





  15. On 1/4/2021 at 10:41 AM, ACCSisko said:

    Keine Ahnung an was es sonst liegen könnte, ich hab grad vorher nen Druck gestartet, da war die Düsse schon fast am Druckbett dran, gestern keine Probleme gehabt, ich glaub langsam entweder hat der Motor was oder das Gewinde pfuscht mir rein.


    Nur mal so als Idee...

    Wenn "unten" alles in Ordnung ist... bewegt sich vielleicht "oben" irgendetwas (Düse, Heizblock, Druckkopf)?


    Sind die Führungsstangen vom Druckkopf alle noch fest in den Slider-Blöcken eingerastet und die Lager in Ordnung (Druckkopf kann sich nicht "verdrehen" oder so)?


    In der Testdatei von @zerspaner_gerd findet keine Filament-Bewegung (Retracts) statt. Nicht das am Ende am Druckkopf oder Olsson-Block etwas lose ist und sich beim Druckstart erstmal irgendwie "zurecht ruckelt"?


    Der UM2+ hat ja keine Feder mehr über dem Düsenblock - da darf zwischen Bowden-Schlauch und Düse kein "Spiel" sein.

    Prüfe bzw. beobachte mal, ob das alles "unverrückbar" ist. Aber vorher abkühlen lassen... 🙂


    • Like 1
  16. Die Modelle sehen aus, als wären sie eher für SLA-Drucker gedacht.


    Ein S5 ist dafür nur bedingt geeignet, mit einem Direct-Drive FDM-Drucker könnten solche Modelle etwas besser funktionieren, aber im Prinzip ist das für diese Drucktechnologie eher ein Härtetest.


    "Tough PLA" ist vermutlich auch nicht die beste Wahl, das "schmiert" zu sehr. Hast Du es mal mit "normalem" PLA versucht?

    Wenn dann noch ein AA 0.25 Printcore benutzt wird, könnte das schon besser aussehen.

    Auf jeden Fall langsam (alle Druck-Geschwindigkeiten max. 30 mm/s) und so "kühl" wie möglich drucken.

    Die Zeit pro Layer darf nicht zu kurz sein - also (wie schon vorgeschlagen wurde) - einfach mehrere Figuren gleichzeitig drucken, oder einen "Dummy"-Turm daneben stellen, damit die kleinen Flächen zwischendurch Zeit zum Abkühlen haben.


    Hast du noch den Link zum Modell im Thingiversum?


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