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Posts posted by tinkergnome

  1. 10 hours ago, Mantawesome said:

    If I rotate the dice 90 then the top and bottom are still sliced incorrectly and the sides are fine. So I know it is not the geometry.


    If you consider how the "slices" are made (always horizontally), it may be still the broken geometry.

    At least there are some (or all?) normals facing inwards. That's perhaps not the main issue, but there may be more...

    How does the "X-Ray-view" in Cura look like?

  2. Ich glaube, dafür ist ein "modifier mesh" gedacht. In diesem Fall also ein zusätzlicher Würfel, der den Bereich mit abweichenden Einstellungen markiert.

    Wenn Du dafür nicht extra ein CAD-Programm bemühen willst, kannst du auch einen "Support-Blocker" hinzufügen, passend skalieren und positionieren, und dann den Typ (und die Füllung) ändern, wie im Handbuch gezeigt:





    • Like 1
  3. On 11/10/2020 at 2:56 PM, johnroy22222 said:

    Is there some ground rules which I failed to follow ?


    Basically - make it manifold. It has to be a solid single object and watertight.

    - no "floating" faces

    - no overlapping faces

    - no internal geometry

    - no holes in the mesh


    This model has all of it🙂 as far as i can see...

    Whatever you did - it does not work this way.

    There are step-files in the original design. I recommend to use these as the basis and make your modifications with a proper CAD program. FreeCAD could be used, or even Fusion360 if you want.


    Some pictures:


    The X-Ray-view in Cura gives a rough indication of all "problem zones" (marked in red).




    3DBuilder imports it like this:





    Meshmixer counts 88 separate shells that are not connected to each other

    ...and PrusaSlicer counts the errors in more detail for you:



  4. 2 hours ago, cryptie said:

    I cleaned the shafts, clipped them back in and lubricated with machine oil but when I try moving the head with my hands, its VERY tough to move. i tried tightening the belts, but the motor is moved to its maximum position.


    These are the things that i would try first:


    There are two linear roll bearings in the printhead. Since the printhead has already cracks... check if these bearings are still seated in the correct position and orientation (not twisted or tilted).


    Oil can resinify / gum over time, so take sure that any old residue is thoroughly wiped off (with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol). That counts for all 6 horizontal shafts and the two vertical shafts of the z-axis.

    For re-oiling of the 8mm shafts only use light oil. Oil that is meant to be used for sewing machines works best.


    To rule out a broken stepper motor: loose the x and y motors, so that you can remove the short belts from the motor shaft. This will not affect the perpendicular gantry system, so it's an easy ("non-destructive") test.

    Move the printhead and rotate the motor shafts by hand to check where the actual resistance comes from.

    All of this with a non-powered printer of course. 🙂



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  5. 3 hours ago, Alexxx2005 said:

    I loaded WoodFill Materials via Cura > Marketplace > Materials

    but Cura Says Profile is not Supported, what is wrong 😏


    That's easy to answer but probably not very satisfying to you.... 😏

    It's the wrong printer and the wrong nozzle size.


    If you install this material from the marketplace you get quality profiles for AA 0.8 print cores. One for each of these printers: Ultimaker 3, Ultimaker 3 extended, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3


    You can still add one of these four printer models to Cura and have a look at the settings, but that's it.

    It's not (directly) usable for anything else.


    The marketplace website is perhaps more useful for you. There's the list of printers that are supported by this profile and links to the appropriate colorfabb website with general printing advice.




  6. 3 hours ago, medicalmodeller said:

    Any suggestions?


    Well, my best suggestion is: change the GCode-Flavor in Cura from "Ultimaker2" to "Marlin". This gives you full control of the material settings in Cura, and the (limited) options on the printer are not used anymore. I did it this way and never looked back.


    Regarding the "MATERIAL.TXT" file -

    My lazy approach in the good ol' days was:


    - use "material" -> "settings" -> "customize" on the printer and change all available settings to your liking

    - save this as a new preset ("Save as preset" -> "new preset") - it will get a name like "CUSTOM02" or similar


    If you want a more descriptive name for it:


    - export the material file to sd-card

    - open it with a simple text editor and change only the name from "CUSTOM02" to "ASA" (do not touch anything else)

    - (re-) import the file on the printer



  7. Die Materialprofile im Marketplace sind oft nur für bestimmte Drucker oder Filamentdurchmesser vorgesehen (bzw. angeboten).

    Wenn Dein Drucker unter "Compatible printers" nicht aufgeführt ist, stehen sie dafür vermutlich auch nicht zur Auswahl.


    Zur Kontrolle kannst Du einfach mal in Cura (versuchsweise) einen kompatiblen Drucker hinzufügen. Dafür müssten die gezeigten Material-Profile dann auch auswählbar sein.


  8. 3 hours ago, anwesh said:

    I am just using ultimaker mother board for heating extruder hot end (do not need any sensor or x or y movements).


    That's still confusing... and "does not work" is not precise enough to give you any advise...


    Marlin will not start the heater without a connected temperature sensor (and readings in a plausible range).

    So, you have somehow connected a heater cartridge and a temperature sensor to the Ultimaker board. E3D uses thermistor cartridges AFAIK - so neither thermocouple nor PT100?


    I assume you have to elaborate much more to get any useful answers.

    What have you already tried and what exactly does not work?


    As a start:


    - Which kind of temperature sensor is connected? That's very important - each (kind of) sensor works different.

    - Where is it connected (pin numbers or connector names on the board)

    - What's the value of the used pullup resistor?

    - compiling and uploading the customized firmware already works - right?

    - How do you control your custom firmware? Serial console? Which commands are used?

    - What's the exact error message (if you get one)?


    ...feel free to extend the list where needed... 🙂

  9. 5 hours ago, anwesh said:

    I installed the firmware by modifying 168, 169, 170 lines in configuration file but the thermocouple only reads until 260°C. If I disconnect thermocouple from heater the heater reaches upto 350 (which i change from 275°C in configuration.h file) and shown max temp error. 


    I think a lot of important information is missing...

    • There are several firmware variants and branches, what is line 168 referring to? I guess you changed "HEATER_0_MAXTEMP" to 335 or higher? That should be correct.
    • But... wait... thermocouple? Where is it connected? The "temp" inputs on the UM2 mainboard are for RTDs only (PT100)
      For any other sensor type you can probably find (and configure) some free pins on the board to connect the sensor and the pullup resistor. On the firmware side: Use one of the supported temperature tables - set the correct value for "TEMP_SENSOR_0" (configuration.h - there's a section with comments) and "TEMP_0_PIN" (pins.h)
    • are there more unmentioned changes on the hardware side?
    • in any case: be careful and respect the warnings in the Marlin documentation
    • ...and please test it thouroughly - don't burn down your house...


  10. 12 hours ago, HtRabbit said:

    the issue is in the custom and or the linked fdmprinter json there is no defined disallowed area to remove


    The small frame all around is probably reserved for the brim - take a look at the build plate adhesion method.


    The other areas are probably not reachable for all extruders because of defined extruder x/y offsets.

    I would disable all extruders but one to check the reachable area (and set correct offsets where needed of course).


    If the firmware already takes care about those things, you should set all offsets in Cura to zero. Cura will un-block these areas then.

    • Like 1
  11. 26 minutes ago, medicalmodeller said:

    My alternative filament is ASA, that I usually print with the nozzle at 245C and the bed at about 85C

    Can I store these settings in the customized option or do I set them each time I change from PLA to ASA?


    It depends... The following applies only if you use Cura and the (default) GCode-flavor:




  12. Smithy was faster.... again... 🙂 - but anyway:

    Somehow i doubt that it is supposed to look like this....? So probably.... nope.




    A solid, manifold, "watertight" object is crucial for 3D printing. This one is a mess of 43 separate shells with either unconnected or intersecting faces. Partly with wrong normals and so on.

    You should consider to use a CAD program for modeling of such things...


    If you want to repair it manually, there are several tutorials, something like this:


    • Like 1
  13. 11 minutes ago, druckpunkt3d said:

    Yes I get a connection. After a few seconds the printer is shown as not available, than it comes back. This two state are changing again and again.


    Sounds familiar...

    Is it connected via WIFI? And if...:

    WIFI connections on printers are usually very weak. Maybe one or more networks in the neighborhood are using the same channel from time to time and make it worse. If you can - try to configure a different channel on the WIFI router.

    ...or route a network cable and be happy for the rest of the printers lifetime 🙂

  14. correct baud rate is 250000

    In addition you have to find the correct COM port of course.


    But USB cables highly differ in quality. There are even cables "for charging only". So  - if you have the choice - try a different cable first. Preferable one with ferrite cores.


  15. 12 hours ago, Longtoke said:

    I don't dispute that this method is "unintended" as far as  developers are concerned but if a user wants to add their own materials while retaining the default profiles to work from as a starting point, this "trick" works extremely well, especially when were are talking about similar or near identical materials.


    On 10/21/2020 at 3:33 AM, Longtoke said:

    Why this field exists without a drop down selection of pre-defined material classes instead giving a open entry field is beyond my understanding, as this is exactly the issue that it creates. Something to be said for the "kiss" principle.


    I see what you mean.
    Creating a new material ist not a problem - as long the material type stays the same. So making it harder to accidentally create a new (unsupported) type could be helpful.


    On the other hand - since the quality profiles are depending on the material type (or: are linked to it). What's the point to duplicate a material without creating a corresponding quality profile as well? Especially if we are talking about similar or near identical materials.

    Just to give it a different name? 🤷‍♂️


    Or does it actually change any relevant print setting of the pre-defined quality profiles?

    If one has to make changes to the quality profile in any case - why should i bother with the material at all?

    (as you can see 🙂 - i use Cura for years and never touched the material configuration)



  16. 9 hours ago, Longtoke said:

    When you copy a "generic" filament to use as a template if you change the <Material Type> field to anything not recognized by default, the messages appear.


    Only defining a new material is not sufficient in most cases. That's what @nallath tries to explain all the time...


    Here is the reason:


    - the machine definition is (probably) configured to use materials and quality profiles (in combination)

    - quality profiles are made for a specific machine, a specific material and a specific variant (nozzle size e.g.)

    - adding a new material is only the first step

    - you have to create proper quality profiles for all combinations as well (only the material is not sufficient)

    - once the quality profiles are in place - they will show up in the dropdown

    - if there are no quality profiles for the choosen material.... then there is nothing to choose from


    Be aware:

    Creating the whole stack of needed files can be a lot of work. There's no user interface AFAIK, but all you need is a text editor.

    Kind contributors have done this for many of the non-Ultimaker machines. But if you add a whole new material, it's your task.



    Set "has_machine_quality" and "has_variants" to "false" in the machine definition.

    Afterwards you should always see the basic profiles in the drop down.


    There's a nice pictures in the wiki. As you can see, "material" is only a small part in the stack...



    • Like 1
  17. 20 hours ago, PhiGide said:

    Als Motor verwende ich den, der bei Bondtech mitgeliefert wurde. Alles was am Extruder von UM Montiert war, ist weg.


    Alles klar, dann ist es nicht der DDG (wie im Titel gesagt). Der DDG-Extruder wird ohne Motor geliefert und ersetzt einfach 1:1 den UM2+ Feeder. Der UM2+ Motor bleibt dabei unverändert montiert und nur für diese Kombination gelten dann die 311 steps/mm


    Evtl. hast du das "QR"-Kit verbaut? Dann müssen die Steps geändert werden auf 492.45 - das ist auf der Bondtech-Seite auch so angegeben.


    Im Zweifel zeig einfach mal einen Link oder ein Foto von dem, was jetzt eigentlich montiert ist...


  18. On 10/15/2020 at 5:34 PM, shinzuriki said:

    Anyone can teach me how to install (copy and paste) the script inside CURA v4.7?


    Oh - and don't use "copy and paste". Here is an easy way to download the file from the gist page:

    • click on the "Raw" button
    • choose "Save page as..." in your browser (shortcut "CTRL+S" in Firefox and Chrome)
    • copy the file into the "scripts" folder (steps 1 to 5 from the linked page)

    I made a test right now. Worked flawlessly.








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