tinkergnome
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Posts posted by tinkergnome
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Ja der Spindel wird auch getauscht wenn der neue Tisch installiert wird.
Dann müssen auch die Steps/mm für die z-Achse angepasst werden. Wenn vorher die Firmware ohne HBK installiert war, passiert das nicht automatisch.
Ich nehme an, die richtige Firmware-Version für das HBK hast Du schon installiert?
Dann geht es am einfachsten, wenn alle Einstellungen (am Ulticontroller) auf die Standardwerte zurückgesetzt werden.
Ich habe keinen UMO, evtl. gibt es auch direkt die Möglichkeit, die Steps/mm einzustellen?
Der richtige Wert für die neue Z-Achse müsste 200 sein. Steht dazu nichts in der Installationsanleitung?
Edit: habs gefunden, es sollte sowas geben:
'Control -> Motion ->Z-steps/mm'
dann eine Ebene zurück und
'Store memory'
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Oh so that design is yours Robert? Did they atleast change it some-what or direct copy.
@skint - you can take a look and compare it for yourself...
It's a license violence - point. Even one of the pictures is stolen.
Brashly impertinent..., dorky-cocky... whatever...
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It's pretty silent here - still no valid contribution?
The tinker-cave became a temporary maker-cave again and i had some fun today.
So - here is another non-competitive post.
Each "chocolate sphere" represents a carbon atom - and all together are building C3H6O - better knows as "acetone"
And i yet had a banana left...
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I've redone the AutoTune with Pronterface and the results are the same, ie when I reconnect after a power cycle the PIDs report the same as before I changed them.
There MUST be something else !
I don't remember exactly, but i guess that you should get a response from the printer after the M500. Something like "Settings stored" or a similar message.
If not, try the following:
- make a note of your new PID parameters
- disconnect and connect again (there should be a button in pronterface)
- (re)send the M301 command
- you should get an "ok." and your new parameters as response message
- (re)send the M500 command
- wait for message "Settings stored" (it takes less then 2 seconds)
- Done.
If you don't get the response messages then there is something wrong with the serial connection.
Restarting the printer is not neccessary.
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Weist du wo man die Geschwindigkeit für den Filamenchange änder kann.
Dazu müsstest Du dich in UltiLCD2_menu_material.h austoben.
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH + 50)#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 100#define FILAMENT_LONG_MOVE_ACCELERATION 30#define FILAMENT_FORWARD_LENGTH (FILAMANT_BOWDEN_LENGTH - 50)#define FILAMENT_INSERT_SPEED 2 //Initial insert speed to grab the filament.#define FILAMENT_INSERT_FAST_SPEED 100 //Speed during the forward length#define FILAMENT_INSERT_EXTRUDE_SPEED 2 //Final speed when extruding
Ich glaube, der Maximalwert für normale Retractions ist 45
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Also irgendwas schein S3D aus dem HEX File heraus zu lesen.
Naja, etwas sinnvolles aber offenbar nicht, Dein Beispiel-Screenshot passt zum Makerbot, Marlin kann damit wahrscheinlich nicht so viel anfangen...
Da ist für XYZ überall 230 eingetragen - soll das so sein?
Ich denke schon, das hier sind die Defaults, Y_MIN_POS war eigentlich auch Null, das ist das Einzige, was ich geändert habe.
// Travel limits after homing#define X_MAX_POS 230#define X_MIN_POS 0#define Y_MAX_POS 230#define Y_MIN_POS 5#define Z_MAX_POS 230#define Z_MIN_POS 0
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I have tried, but couldn't find it in the settings. Isn't it released?
It was added (at the end of the list) in firmware version 14.12 with the name "UPET" and renamed to "CPE" since V15.04.1 (i think...).
But there's also a limit of 16 entries, nothing will change if the limit is already reached.
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Thanks, do you know the type of screws used. As in 10mm m4, m3 etc etc
Well, it's not a metric thread like all other srcews, its just a chipboard panel (or "SPAX") screw.
The 2.5x16 defines the outer diameter and the length in mm. You should get it in any hardware store.
Here is an example with image and a sketch with dimensions.
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I think you're looking for partnumber 1358 - chipboard panel screw 2.5x16
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@macguiver, you should probably better ask the Micro 3D Fans. They have a "ready to use" Cura profile for you.
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Ich verwende S3D nur für den Ultmaker 2. Darum dachte ich, das ich auch das HEX File von Tinkergnome dort als Firmware Typ einspielen kann, zumal der Drucker ja auch mit dieser Firmware läuft.
Ich kann mir nicht vorstellen, das man dort die hex-Datei importieren kann. Was soll denn der Slicer damit anfangen? Es sollte völlig reichen, das Standard-Profil für RepRap zu verwenden.
Trotzdem ich jetzt, so wie oben geschrieben, alle Parameter auf "Werkseinstellung" stehen habe, bekomme ich auch jetzt wieder am Drucker die Meldung "ERROR - Data out of Print Parameter"
Naja, beinahe... da steht wahrscheinlich "ERROR: Tried printing out of printing area".
Kann es sein, das das gleich beim Start passiert? Dann hat es wohl mit Deinem "Starting Script" zu tun.
Position Y = 0 ist nicht erreichbar. Y "homes" bei 230 und der Druckbreich ist 225, deshalb würde der Druckkopf bei Y-Werten unter 5 vorne gegen den Rahmen fahren.
Wenn Du es trotzdem probieren willst, kannst Du ja mal am Drucker den Minimum-Wert für Y ändern (Advanced->Preferences->Print area).
Die ursprünglichen Werten in der zweiten Zeile von Deinem Skript waren wahrscheinlich X5 Y10, das passt besser.
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@Tinkergnome, I know, I've worked with that before, but when I pause, the nozzle either melts the environment into a blobby structure, or leaves a nasty spot that in time messes up the print. Do you insert gcode to make the head retract and travel away or something?
The Cura plugin has parameters for this, hasn't it?
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My question... Some one could help me with this? Some one knows why this happened? (the distance and paralelism between on X and Y axle is pèrfect)
To be honest - i never made such calibrations (or thought about it...)
Perhaps there is slightly hardware problem? You could try to check (and tighten) the belts.
Or perhaps it's just the model that shrinks at a different rate at the other axis?
Questions to Tinkergnome.... On your firmware I can set x,y,z step with measurement of "0.0 mm", why I can not set for measurement of "0.00 mm" to make it more exact?
Perhaps i'm wrong, but you're talking about the precision of the "Axis steps per mm", right?
I just thought that there's no need for a more precise adjustment...,
if i was wrong i can easily change it for the next release.
Till then, you can connect to the printer with pronterface and change the settings with (manually) gcode commands.
For example:
;set axis steps per unitM92 X80.00 Y80.00;store settingsM500
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@SandervG, I'm sure you mean @tinkergnome 's TRIPLE color reels ;)Was that printed or painted? Also, how did you do that
? I can't imagine that precise measuring and cutting bits of filament.@Titus - you have eagle eyes...
It's all printed - just a close (dutch) collaboration of an Ultimaker2, FormFutura and a bit of Colorfabb.
I guess i would get malus points if i try to paint something...
One can simply use Cura with the PauseAtZ plugin and change materials mid print (don't know if this is possible on an UMO?).
In this specific case i used Simplify3D and splitted the job in four processes starting (and stopping) at different z heights (four separate gcode files) - it was a bit easier this way.
But quite a few of material change cycles...
Yes - a bit of effort - but a lot of fun!
Edit - regarding the settings: i did nothing weird...
With the exception of the tiny robots it's all printed from PLA with a 0.4 nozzle.
Relatively slow (30 - 35mm/s) at about 200°C. Fan was only at 35%, i use the fan shroud from @Labern - i assume it has a high efficiency factor?
I think the details also related to the material - i made good experiences with PLA from FormFutura.
And last but not least - the JET nozzles from 3DSolex perhaps? I never compared it with others, i only have those...
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I can't figure out how too adjust the settings you have mentioned above.
Do I neet to run the 'PID' settings if so how? From with in TInkergnome?
Hi @savak001,
to "tune" the PID settings a recompile of the firmware is not neccessary. You get some basic instructions if you follow the links above (from Arjan).
In short:
- connect the printer with USB
- open pronterface and connect to the printer
- manually send the described gcode commands to the printer
- the recommended values for the p, i and d coefficents are printed on the serial console after the autotune cycles are completed
- store the new values in the printers EEPROM - (using the described gcode commands)
- you have to repeat these steps only after a factory reset
The PID autotune is not (yet) executable from within the firmware, but it's already on the wishlist. This would probably make such things a bit easier.
Anyway - you've managed to change the complete hotend - those banal things should be a piece of cake for you..
Edit: the maximum allowed hotend temperature is increased to 300°C for the recent "tinker" version, don't try this with a stock hotend... and if you need to go even higher.. just ask...
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Found the files and downloaded FreeCAD, thanks.
How do I download the STEP file, when I try to download it, it appears as an .html file. I can view it as a RAW file which looks like text. Not sure what to try.
Yep. STEP is a text format. Just save the raw file as "1320-B2P-B.STEP"
...or for example in firefox: right click on the "RAW" button and choose "Save target as..."
...or download the whole archive as a zip file - and keep it for the next time...
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Ok, here is my story of today:
I decided to make the frame from gold and bronze.
The intention was an extra motivation for the fire breathing successor.
As an extra tribute i printed on a cold buildplate covered with bluetape.
During the print, some cute prying Ultimaker robots came by.
I really don't know where they came from, but they are very interested.
I guess they like the sound and the vibrations...
I think the UMO deserved itself a bit more color - it ended up in a lot of material changes.
The heated bed kit arrived just in time, i apologize for the stuff that is strewn all over the floor... i was in a hurry...
Some more pictures in the print section.
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So if I do a factory reset do I lose all my lifetime statistics?
No no, the lifetime statistics stays always untouched.
Actually only the version numbers are deleted and after the restart the defaults are loaded.
Search for doFactoryReset() in UltiLCD2_menu_maintenance.cpp.
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No STL, but the STEP files are published here.
You should be able to convert it to STL, if in doubt you can use FreeCAD for this job.
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tinkergnome - can you give a brief explanation of the different types (locations?) of memory for the arduino and where the settings such as Z calibration are stored and how come they don't get destroyed when you upgrade but sometimes they get messed up?
Ok, the explanation for the latter is:
The use of the EEPROM was a fragile hack in my early firmware attempts.
There was no proper versioning in the beginning and this resulted in a certain probability to read uninitialized values from the memory (especially if one skipped one or another version...).
This should be solved in more recent versions. A version number is stored besides the data and the settings are initialized with defaults if the stored version does not match.
The same occurs on a factory reset.
Some start adresses:
- 0x64 - (inherited) Marlin configuration store - this is always stored "all in once", the homing offsets are stored in the array "add_homing"
- 0x400 - FIRST_RUN_DONE - a flag to indicate a completed "First run wizard"
- 0x401 - start of the "tinker" memory area
- 0x700 - lifetime statistics (accumulated printing time)
- 0x800 - Ultimaker material settings
I think, that's it. You can use the links as a starting point if you want to dive into...
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@tinkergnome any progress on the "more info during usb printing"?
An "USB printing" screen with some (hopefully useful...) informations is implemented in V15.12
You can give it a try, if you like.
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Hopefully we'll also see some official entries during the weekend
Well, the first part has finished...
Don't be in such a hurry!
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Your assembly looks not good. There must be no gap between the steel nut and the aluminium plate. And maybe it's only the perspective, but it seems that the nozzle and the PTFE coupler does not building a straight line.
Both is essential!
I assume, that you have some serious leaking inside the filament path now. You have to take it apart (again) and make sure that all parts are really clean before you assemble it again.
There has to be a perfect fit between all parts (heater block, steel nut, I2K and PTFE coupler) - any gap somewhere and you're lost...
In contrast: there _has_ to be a gap between the heater block and the fan shroud. It's not visible on your photo but perhaps the whole heater block is stucked somewhere? How does it look from the back side?
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then I want to know how effective it is to turn the current up, do a diagram force on current, and proove that it does not take a big advantage see what the heat does on it,.. ect.
Thanks for the explanation, and keep in mind that the chance to loose steps increases with an overheated stepper driver...
Don't forget to make some additional printing tests with _lower_ current.
Good luck!
? I can't imagine that precise measuring and cutting bits of filament.
Probleme mit dem Ultimaker Original
in Deutsch
Posted
Ja, das liegt nahe - passiert aber nur, wenn vorher noch keine anderen Einstellungen gespeichert waren. Anderenfalls bleiben die stur im EEPROM liegen...
...es sei denn, man macht nach jedem Firmware-Update auch ein "Load failsafe" (oder wie das heißt - beim Ultimaker2 heißt das "Factory Reset" - das trifft es irgendwie besser).
Aber dann ist eben gleich _alles_ wieder auf Standard - das kann ja durchaus bei einem gebrauchten Drucker auch gewollt sein...
Die ursprüngliche Frage ist aber nach dem Umbau auf "heated bed" schon öfter aufgetaucht. Und ich lese ja auch noch gar nicht so lange hier mit...
Was mich zu der Annahme verleitet, das die "Steps/mm" in der Montage-Anleitung wohl nicht erwähnt werden...