tinkergnome
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Posts posted by tinkergnome
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Sorry, but can you share some more informations?
- Which printer profile do you use within Cura?
- How does your start gcode looks like?
A short google search found this example profile for the Micro 3D
...and the Airwolf FAQ mentions a "recommended profile" for Cura "provided on the USB drive received with your printer"...
Have you tried this already?
Anyway... it's just my personal thought, but i assume the Cura developers can only make a guess about your printer(s). Perhaps the linked sites are a better place to ask...?
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Providing that you use the (standard) gcode flavor "UltiGcode", the Ultimaker2 uses volumetric values for the E-axis....and so does the Pause at z plugin (i think...).
You have to calculate the retraction amount for the plugin in cubic millimeter.
If i remember right, the change material wizard retracts the filament 20mm at the end of the procedure.
The solution for me was to increase the plugin value "Retraction amount" to approx.128 (for a filament diameter of 2.85mm). This compensates the 20mm retract when you resume the print.
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The dripped pattern during travel moves looks conspicuous...
Are the retractions really working? The bowden must not move during retractions (check both mounted sides).
What about the retraction details? Can you report the Cura settings? Perhaps you can increase the retraction amount or change the retraction speed (or both...)?
And the horizontal skins are still non-uniform... Have you tried to tighten the belts (even more)?
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Well, problems still exist....ideas?
Is this still sliced with Cura? Then you should use the "No Skin" option for Combing. I suggest this as a starting point:
In addtion: the extrusion looks quite unbalanced, there is serious underextrusion on some parts of the skin. You mentioned in your first post that this happens after retractions... and gets worse after lot of retractions?
I assume that this is somewhere hardware related.... perhaps some backlash in the feeder...? (i'm not familar with the UO feeder...)
Anyway - you should definitely get rid of this first...
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The heated chamber is only a spin-off... and can (for sure) be achieved with much simpler approaches.
The main feature of this enclosure is the "Scrubber Filter" (filtering of ultrafine particles) - especially for ABS printing.
The question is: is it worth the extra room / money / weight (40kg !!) on the desktop?
It's not very clear from the description - can the heat be dissipated from the chamber in any way?
Edit: they are talking about 95F (35°C ?) as enclosure temperature in the description of the "Rapid Heat Kit". A temperature in this range should not hurt?
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Maybe you should reload it (UMO+, not UMO in Cura!).
Yep, if this is a "fresh assembled" printer - upload the correct firmware with Cura and don't forget a subsequent "Control" -> "Restore failsafe" and "Control" -> "Store memory" (on the UltiController).
This will set the correct values for steps/mm (amongst other things).
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Thanks - then I will try to get the right settings in Simplify3D for the 0.8 nozzle.
May i suggest as a starting point....:
- decrease the layer height to 0.3 (max.) - and use the same for the first layer (100% height and 50% speed)
- increase the printing speed instead (40mm/s should be possible)
- use more intermediate steps for the fan (don't go up from 0 to 100 in one single step)
- 80% for the three "underspeed" settings - no need to go too low here
- use a bit heigher temperatures for XT (245° - 250° results in a better layer bonding)
Edit:
...and lower the fan speed for XT (for the same reason) - you probably don't need more than 30% (except for bad overhangs or bridging).
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It would be special if I need to adjust the bed every time I change the layer height. So basically the question is how far away should the nozzle from the bed. 0.1 mm?
Don't worry, the objective is that Z is set to zero if the nozzle touches the buildplate. There are no other dependencies.
The buildplate wizard assumes that you use a sheet of paper with 0.1mm height.That's all.
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The wall is getting quite thin at that part so maybe its less than the nozzle size of my UM2? Is there any way to say "okay, just print it anyway"?
The wall is way too thin...
Cura slices it if you choose a nozzle diameter of 0.2 or less.
I think it's not a reasonable print... Look at the comments on thingiverse... you're not alone...
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I have the most recent version of the firmware and I'm using S3D indeed. (where's that forum for us btw?
:p)The start looks quite good to me...
S3D doesn't use the firmware retractions, but generates it's own gcode sequences.
Your best options:
- show us the retraction settings
- "play" with "Extra Restart Distance", "Coast" and "Wipe"
- slice it with Cura (just to eliminate a slicing problem)
Edit: probably it's better to try this in reversed order...?
- show us the retraction settings
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@tinkergnome not sure what is happening but i had it happen twice on me:
Hi Didier,
i also suspect a problem with the saved settings, probably missing or wrong values for the print area?
I noticed recently that this can occur, especially if you skipped one or another release...
I made some changes on this for the next version - it should be more stable for the future.
Good to hear that you already found the right solution.
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; layerHeight,0.25; firstLayerHeightPercentage,250
This ends up at a first layer height of 0.625mm - really?
But highly suspicious for your problems is the first line of your start gcode:
M907 E1400 ; increase extruder current
Why do you do this....?
The extruder motor will get much hotter than normal with the increased current.
A good source for grinded filament - i think?
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@tinkergnome any progress on the "more info during usb printing"?
any efforts? - yes
any progress? - i hope so...
I think you can test it soon... stay tuned... - i need some sleep first...
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Another wild guess...
Can you make screenshots of your Simplify3D settings?
Esp. the "Extruder", "Other" and "Advanced" tab?
Or post the head lines from the gcode file?
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Now that's awesome! With that and a large linear calibration print I could calibrate the two heads of the magnetic head changer really fast.
Cool... and already the first accidental use case...
That's why it's called the "tinker" firmware...
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OK then, what exactly is "Babystepping" in your 15.11.RC1?
Are we talking microstepping >16X? That would be sweet!
I don't think so.... this would be called "nanostepping"... (probably...)
Here is a short explanation from the original inventor:
It's "hidden" behind the Z-position on the printing screen. @rooiejoris pointed me to this recently. If you like, try it out.
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If you can give me a starting point for development :-)
mm-hmm, what is your starting point / previous knowledge?
Some links:
- How to compile Marlin Firmware
- Get the simulator up and running, this and this.
- Code::Blocks
- Git
- The tinker fork on GitHub
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@tinkergnome: You're talking about the combination I2K+DupTef, correct? (not about I2K + TFT = TF2K?)
Actually only the "new one" is an I2K + DupTef, the "used one" is I2K + PTFE Coupler (from the Ultimaker shop).
No TF2K yet - but it's a thing to consider... The "DupTef" has disappeared from the 3dSolex shop anyway...
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Sure the PTFE you use for higher temps will die faster.... but some believe for ABS the quality of the PTFE is less important than for PLA as it's more slippery....
Another example:
I never printed with ABS, but my left PTFE is in use for approx. 400 printing hours at temperatures between 240 and 250°C. It is assisted by an I2K washer and looks like new...
I2K rules!
...and although only one nozzle is usable at a time - i adjusted both to the same height anyway - just for convenience.
(i like it easy and don't want to re-level the buildplate on every change)
It works flawless so far.
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I could not resist and made a copy of this approach.
I had a second Olsson block laying around... (i mean ... as a spare part...)
...and i got an early christmas gift from @SandervG (resp. Ultimaker) - i found this one recently in the mailbox:
Thanks again - i really appreciate it - and i think i found a good use for it.
Assembled all parts together:
As you can see - i also had some use of other community contributions.
Fan shroud by @Labern, print head modification by @Izzy and countless other parts
by @|Robert|. The power of open source!
Now i'm able to test the dual extruder version of the firmware for myself...
I selected the second extruder as primary and made a short test print:
Hey - it works!
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Ich würde mich sehr über eine entsprechende Typ Empfehlung ggf. mit günstiger Bezugsquelle freuen. Vielen Dank.
Konkrete Tips sind immer schwierig, persönliche Vorlieben spielen da eine große Rolle.
Ich komme mit FormFutura EasyFil besser zurecht als mit Colorfabb.
Aber im Prinzip druckt sich beides praktisch wie von selbst...
Günstiger wäre Das Filament, mit praktischen Erfahrungen kann ich dazu aber nicht dienen.
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So, ich muss sagen, es vergeht mir gerade ein bisschen die Lust an dem Drucker.
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Was für ein Scheiß !!!!
Also wenn Du schon so emotional an die Sache herangehst....
...könntest du auch mal versuchen, den Drucker eher so wie ein Kind zu behandeln...
Das würdest Du doch auch nicht so viele Stunden unbeaufsichtigt "spielen" lassen...
Noch eine Idee zum "Grinding" - bei einem Druck mit sehr vielen "Retractions" steigt die Wahrscheinlichkeit dafür stark an. Falls das als Ursache in Betracht kommt, kannst Du versuchen die Retraction-Details im Slicer zu variieren, und damit die Anzahl selbiger reduzieren.
Nachträglich ein bisschen "Stringing" zu beseitigen macht viel mehr Spass als "Grinding"...
(ist das nicht ein schönes Deutsch...
)...und 1A aufgewickeltes Filament bekommt man auf jeden Fall mit "umspulen" - und 1A selber wieder aufwickeln...
Ich weiß, das kann seeeehhhhr nervig werden - funktioniert aber!
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There are several real time videos on youtube - good source to compare the noise...
Here is
Observe the sound on layer change - if yours sounds similar - all is in best order.
Yes - you can change the microsteps for the z-axis to 16 (instead of 8) with a jumper - and you can modify the max. speed for the z-axis. The sound changes a bit (probably) - but the difference is not huge.
Don't worry and have fun with your printer!
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That's a bit confusing...
You are talking about the firmware for an Ultimaker2, right?
...at least the "UltiLCD2..." files are used for the display of the Ultimaker 2
- this would presume a
#define ENABLE_ULTILCD2
The "ultralcd...." files are not needed - at least not for a stock UM2 - the same applies to "ULTIBOARD_V2_CONTROLLER" - are you using a different display?
AFAIK you would never need both?
:p)
Measure the M907 code force with a scale issues with G code
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
*sigh*
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/master/Marlin/Configuration.h#L266
M302: Allow cold extrudes
You're talking about an Ultimaker2, right? M907 changes the motor current, but AFAIK there is no linearly dependency between torque and current.
What are you trying to prove....and why...? (just curious)