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Posts posted by tinkergnome
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Hello,
I don't know which software protection my ultimaker have got build in.
I don't want to brick it. Can I upload this Firmware over the build in USB I/O?
Does anybody knows if the Sensor is fixed or glued on the heater somehow?
Is there a manual somehwre how to remove it properly?
Is there a posibility to contact the developer directly?
Regards,
Maverick
@Maverick71 - wait a minute... i doubt that any pid tuning (or different firmwares) would be useful in this case.
If the temp sensor sends wrong readings - it is faulty and has to be replaced - point.
Unfortunately the disassembling of the sensor is usually quite difficult - with other words: it's very easy to break the wires of the sensor - if you try it by yourself...
And - yes - it is fixed with a screw.
There is an assembly manual for the UM2 - most of the parts are very similar to the Extended.
I'm afraid this one is still the best suggestion:
If it has a failure somewhere you can also contact the reseller and check with him for warranty repairs
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ive probably used the atomic method, over a 200 times. Ive practically looked into every extrusion problem, still cant solve mine.
I earnestly doubt that the motor is too weak...
Let's make another educated guess: do you have checked (or replaced) the PTFE coupler already?
...and...
The bowden is clean and smooth?
Have you tried a dust filter for the filament?
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Ein Update auf die aktuelle Standard-Version 15.04.3 würde auch ausreichen - da ist ein Bugfix für das M42 Kommando enthalten. Und die Deine erste gcode-Variante sieht gut aus.
x und y bei den anderen Varianten sind wohl eher Platzhalter, wo hast Du das gefunden?
Wenn ich das richtig in Erinnerung habe, ist der LED-Pin vom UM2 "P8", aber das ist der Default und kann einfach weggelassen werden.
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Do i have to use Marlin with the Tinker firmware? and do i just simply click "install custom firmware" to fix the retraction after print?
Hi @craftee,
if you want to install this firmware you can download the appropriate *.hex file for your printer (from the link above) and install it with Cura and "install custom firmware"...
...but... ...
...it still does not automatically fixes all printing issues... (i'm working on it... )
I gradually made some minor changes on the user interface and - as a side effect - the amount of the "end-of-print" retraction is adjustable (V15.09 or later - Advanced -> Preferences -> Retraction settings)
BTW: there was a short - but similar - discussion recently.
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I just upgraded to cura 15.04 and now when I finish or abort a print my printer retracts the filament 20mm or more, removing it from the print head entirely.
20mm is the default "end-of-print" retraction on the UM2 - from the start on...?
AFAIK this is only relevant if you use Cura with the gcode-flavor "UltiGcode". Do you made any changes on this side lately? Which slicer do you used before?
In addtion - there was a firmware issue - if you pause a running print and subsequently abort it the end-of-print retraction was doubled.
This is fixed with Cura/Firmware version 15.04.1 (or later). I think, the current version is V15.04.3 - the last digit is important.
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I have so many different nozzles from 3D-Solex old ones and newer ones and E3d i'm so confused. so many different dots, or no dots at all. I once printed for a week with a 0.8mm nozzle that was set to 0.4mm in cura and didn't even realize till i removed it :(. that made me feel stupid. one day ill get around to printing a little chart to remind me.
So seeing the etched sizes is a really good addition.
There is an easy solution, if you own a 3D printer...
...print at least one of this to remind you the nozzle size...,
and print a couple of these in several colors (or materials) to store (and separate) all your different nozzles.
Thanks to the designers for these brilliant ideas.
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I always thought that jerk was the acceleration of the acceleration.
Interesting math either way...
I found this (fairly old) discussion on the RepRap forum.
As far as i understand, "jerk" is the derivation of acceleration (mathematically)...
...but... ... in Marlin it is not implemented this way (strictly speaking).
I may be wrong, but i think it's simply the maximum change of speed at which Marlin joins two segments in the planner.
Edit:
You should also take a look at this thread - with a detailed explanation from @gr5.
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I have ordered the parts and give it a try...
@Labern - any news about this? Is it working?
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I am just a little curious why the long code indicate the big logo. What code is it?
I also didn't make it... but it's no secret format...
It's a (sort of) XBM aka X Bitmap.
Commonly used together with the Adafruit GFX-library. There are tools to convert a monochrome bitmap, no need to count the pixels manually...
...for example this one.
What's your intention...?
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as I am a heavy octoprint user, is this already implemented for USB printing? Thanks.
@markusmaker - you quoted the filament sensor support, it's there - but not related to octoprint or usb...
I assume that you wanted to reference to the announcement of @frederiekpascal?
He asked me yesterday if one could replace the boring "Printing with USB..." message with some useful informations. I promised to put it on my virtual todo list...
So regarding this, the answer is: no - not yet - be patient - stay tuned..
Or are you even interested to contribute...?
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One thing I've come across while using this great firmware... When the printer generates a "heater error" and stops printing, the nozzle just stays where it is and it's like the feeder continues to try and extrude filament endlessly, I had to turn the machine off to stop it. I'm not sure whether this happens in the standard firmware.
Is there a reason the printer doesn't home the head when this happens ?
As far as i can see - it's the intended behavior. It acts like a safety switch. On any error all motors and heaters are stopped and the display shows the error message until you shut it down.
You can start from here, if you want to explore...
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From the diagram, I found that the small fan is connedcted to 5v power directly. So it is not under the control of the microprocessor. So how to make it turns off when it cools down to 40deg.
@mnis has submitted a reliable solution for the 5V fan nearly a year ago.
Perhaps it's time to reawaken his brilliant idea?
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edit - by the way I built the code from scratch from your latest github source as of last weekend.
You should do those things with caution - sometimes i commit changes and test it later...
...but last weekend should be ok...
As JohnK said, you can disable the heater timeout (Advanced -> Preferences -> Heater timeout). Just reduce the value until it shows "off".
And here is the source of your inconvenience....
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The "Change Material" wizard also overrides temporary the max. speed and acceleration for the E axis before it starts the "unload" move.
Perhaps something to consider...
#define FILAMENT_REVERSAL_SPEED 100#define FILAMENT_LONG_MOVE_ACCELERATION 30
gcode should be M203 resp. M204
And the motor current is (temporary) reduced to 2/3 of the normal value with the following comment:
//Set the E motor power lower to we skip instead of grind.
gcode == M907
You're getting closer...
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I wonder... I thought about this but never got the time to do it. @dim3nsioneer @IRobertI has anyone ever think about doing a gcode ending sequence that makes an auto atomic?
Since we are a bit off topic anyway...:
I also use the "|Robert|" - (aka "lazy atomic") method since i first heard about it.
The only drawback was... i too often hit the edge of the table with my hand... ouch!
I don't like a fully automatic system for this kind of stuff - some things are better controlled by hand... but... (see above )
That's the main reason for the enhanced "Move material" menu of the tinker firmware...
I use it for a kind of "electro-atomic" pull.
- goto "Move material" and wait until the nozzle temperature raised up - move the printhead to the front in the meantime (if you like)
- move the filament forward until it comes out of the nozzle (like a normal "priming")
- reduce the target temperature down to the "atomic pull" value (about 85° for PLA)
- move the material forward - a bit further from time to time - to hold the pressure - (a few thenth of a millimeter every few seconds) - until the temperature goes below 160° (approx.)
- wait until the pull temperature is reached - you can remove the oozed material in the meantime (for example... )
- use the "pull" function for a few seconds to pull out the material from the nozzle. With other words: let the feeder motor do the hard work...no more dents in the table...
- finally: open the arm of the |Robert|-feeder and pull out the rest of the material by hand - cut the tip off and store it in its box until next time...
- for the next print: push in the material by hand as far as possible, close the arm of the feeder and prime the nozzle (similar to step one and two)
...actually - writing it down took nearly as long as doing it....
...and most important: no more dents in... you know...
Anyone willing to translate this list into gcode?
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But as you can see in the image, the top part was still not covered, it's still hollow.
Maybe a missing tickmark here?
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I have noticed that recent Cura versions use M106 commands that look like:
M106 39.5000
I've wondered if the firmware is misunderstanding that for some reason, because earlier Cura versions, and every other slicer I've ever seen, generates only integer values in M106 commands?
Hi Richard,
there's a missing "S" between the numbers, but i assume this is only a mistake in writing. Marlin ignores the digits after the point, but works just fine if you send a "M106 S39.5000". Your example sets the fan speed to 15%.
Although floating point numbers in this place are odd, this is not the problem here.
My suspicion:
For UltiGCode the value of the M106 command will be multiplied with the fan percent setting of the current material of the printer... A value of 10% there would explain your symptoms. Can you check this?
BTW:
I published a release 15.10.2 yesterday with a small bugfix for the "pause issue" you reported.
Till then!
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Are you still experiencing it at this moment?
Me too... :(
My favourite "topic" view gives me a 404...
https://ultimaker.com/en/community?topics=1&sort=latest&type=all
...and a click on the "Topic"-Button (from Category view) shows the blue circle forever...
(...until the browser is closed...)
(i tried it with Firefox 41.0.2 and IE 11)
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I was hoping for a more convenient answer. I already speak 11 programming languages fluently and am not too keen on learning no 12. But, here we go...
Hi jeex,
haha, this sounds a bit like a motion picture.... jeex eleven, jeex twelve... to be continued...
Is Python included? You could try to reawaken the Cura plugin XYZshift - this would be very convenient ... afterwards...
Or use Simplify3D and set the global offsets on the gcode tab... very convenient too... but not free....
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So what was the problem with octoprint?
Actually it's a firmware bug...
I think the heater timeout prohibits USB printing at the moment. The (temporary) solution was to disable the timeout in the preferences.
Who has programmed this nonsense? ... ... ... oh ...
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Oh no! I installed the Tinker Firmware and when I use OctoPrint, my nozzle will shut off as soon as it gets to temperature on every print. Is there a place where I can log this issue for this Firmware?
Assuming that everything else is the same as before (esp. the gcode file), this indeed should not happen.
Best would be to report a new issue on the GitHub page. You can attach additional files there. Though you would need to create an account first (it's free).
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The best way should be:
Go to support.ultimaker.com and submit a ticket to the sales department. They will make you an offer.
You can find the part numbers in the BOM
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Ok, it was i simple fix. The M42 command works like intended now.
Here is the updated release of the tinker firmware. You can install it with Cura 15.04 (Machine -> Install custom firmware...)
I also made a pull request for the standard firmware, but there was no activity for months -
so this may take some more time...
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...aggregated results are better than a single test, right?
AFAIK the last output is already the best approximation.
But if you want to do some fine tuning, you can start the autotune several times (even with different target temperatures) and take the average of these.
Temperature sensor error on UM2
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
This would help, if he got a "Heater error"...
Just to be sure: usually these error messages are showing
"ERROR - STOPPED"
in the first line... and the second text line looks like this?
"Temp sensor" (without the appendix "...BED")
This one is triggered, if the temperature sensor inside the heater block reads less than 5°C or more than 275°C. At which temperatures are you printing?
There's no connector near the head, the wire goes all the way down to the electronics board. You can check the connection there. Or can you reproduce the error if you wiggle the cables a bit?