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tinkergnome

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Posts posted by tinkergnome

  1. Has anyone been able to confirm that this M42 command works on the UM2?

     

    I found some time today and made a short test.

    I can confirm that this command does not work properly. Your printers hardware is ok and Octoprint too, i'm pretty sure that you found a bug in the Marlin firmware. Honour to whom honour is due. :)

    I will take a closer look at it in the next days and fix it for the tinker firmware. Which firmware version are you using?

    • Like 1
  2. Not that I don't like learning new skills, but I'd rather be printing than learning all the ins and outs of programming Arduino code.  :)

     

    You should reconsider this - you are missing a lot of funny stuff.... :)

     

    Now, I just need to tweak the PID settings

     

    Maybe coming soon... :)

    Until then - stick to pronterface and start the pid autotune by hand.

  3. Hi bob,

    i'm far away from being a feeder expert... but IMHO - you're actually heading to the right direction with the 38mm yoke. :)

    Regardless of the used feeder chassis the rule of thumb should be: put as less pressure on the filament as possible - respectively: put only as much pressure on it to avoid slipping - but keep the deforming of the filament as small as possible.

    The latter is even more important for flexible filaments.

    Regarding stringing:

    The heating zone is a bit longer on the Olsson block - i can print approx. 5°C cooler than with the stock one (same material) and i changed the retraction settings to 5.10mm at 35mm/s.

    That works great for me - but you probably have to experiment a bit with these settings.

    Don't give up - it's worth the effort!

    Edit: as a small addition -

    If you want to use flexible filaments: do yourself a favor, disable retractions and accept the stringing - any success with FlexiFil, a bowden setup and enabled retractions is very unlikely...

  4. Looks like the screw of the ballbearing touches the wall. I think the "Yoke" is mounted in a wrong way? The screw head should facing you (if you look from behind the printer) - it's screwed directly into the plastic on the inner side. The screw hole is a bit smaller on one side - no nut needed. All other things are looking ok (to me) on the picture.

    ...but open the latch (and the arm) to feed material (by hand) - it's much easier.

    BTW: consider to upload your photo here (to your album) - those picture services are a bit annoying... :)

  5. I've rebuild it into a dedicated ABS / E3Dv6 setup for now

     

    That's ok - you owe it to your printer to take a break from time to time. :)

    53_EmoticonsHDcom.png

    Now i have a reason to order a second extruder motor for myself... let's see... the christmas holidays are near... :)

    • Like 2
  6. ...do I understand it correct, that you have already implemented the code for this in your firmware branch?

     

    mmmmmh, it seems so... :)

    I've only made dry runs, but Guglielmo (@gpb01) was (apparently) successful with it in real life...

    I think the tunell sensor is surprisingly expensive, but i probably could take a fancy to the tiny cheap optical sensor...

    Connect the three wires to the Ultiboard (EXT I/O aka J23) like here and you're done:

    56112694aede9.jpg

    Mmmhhhh - personally i think it's cheap enough to give it a try...

  7. Hi tinkerers an printerers...,

    the October release of the tinker firmware is out now, the latest changes are:

     

    • support for filament sensor on pin PC7 - see above
    • revised menu for the motion settings, additional menu for axis steps/mm
    • for the dual extruder version: swap primary/secondary extruder

     

    I could not test the first by myself, but i trust Guglielmo, that it works... :)

    The latter is also not tested in real life, because i don't have a dual extruder setup. If anyone has a need for it - please try it out and share your feedback.

    @ultiarjan - i count on you... :)

    That's it. A few pictures for illustration:

    um2_geek_printing_28.png

    um2_geek_printing_27.png

    um2_geek_printing_26.png

    • Like 1
  8. There are quite a lot of hard coded positions to consider...

    You will find the start position for the change filament menu in UltiLCD2_menu_material.cpp and for "Insert Material" in UltiLCD2_menu_maintenance.cpp,

    the x/y-position of the pause function in UltiLCD2_menu_print.cpp and several positions for the buildplate leveling wizard in UltiLCD2_menu_first_run.cpp

    If the print area is reduced you can also modify the appropriate values in Configuration.h

    A possibly easier solution is to switch over to the tinker firmware - the print area is adjustable without recompiling and it takes care of the customized min/max values for all those positions.

  9. Using LED J15: Control it in G Code with M42 P13 SXXX where XXX is a value between 0 and 255.  Use M42 P13 S0 to turn the leds off.

    But I may be wrong.

     

    Actually LED_PIN is 13 on the UMO board and pin 8 (PH5) for the UM2...

    ...but never mind - the LED_PIN is the default for the M42 command.

    You can omit the pin number and everything between

    "M42 S0" and "M42 S255"

    should work with every Marlin version out there...

  10. No, it has no impact on the printable area.

    Its widest point is the same as the widest point of UM2 Original Metal Shroud.

     

    First: i like your design of the fan shroud anyway.

    ...but... i made some simple calculations... and the result is:

    i have to regret your reality... :)

    The distance between the side walls of the UM2 frame is 326.2mm (by design), the max. print area in x direction is stated as 230mm. At least at the time i bought it (230 x 225 x 205).

    Edit:

    I saw that this little detail has changed lately - now it's stated as only 223mm in x and y direction? Just another disappointing act from the Ultimaker marketing in my eyes...

    BTW: 230 x 225 x 205 is still the default area for the machine settings in Cura...?

    That means: Any fan mounting that exceeds a size of 96mm in x direction reduces the print area.

    It's not a big deal in my opinion but has to be considered thoroughly.

    42_EmoticonsHDcom.png

  11. Ja, leider funktionieren beide nicht.

    Ich versuche mal verschiede Versionen der Cura Version evtl liegt es daran.

    Danke für deine Hilfe und den tipp.

     

    Auf dem letzten Bild hast Du doch eh' schon eine andere Firmware drauf... :)

    Lass das mal so, das sollte trotzdem funktionieren... Dein Hardware-Setup kann ich natürlich nicht nachvollziehen, aber im Simulator funktioniert Deine Datei.

    Ein bisschen unschön ist, das beide Extruder die ganze Zeit auf der hohen Temperatur bleiben, das können andere Slicer (glaube ich) besser.

    Aber Starten sollte der Druck trotzdem erstmal und auch bei verstopfter Düse sollten die Motoren zumindest den Versuch unternehmen, sich in die richtige Richtung zu bewegen... :)

    Im Moment hilft nur eingrenzen...:

     

    • erste Voraussetzung wäre mal: Du druckst die Datei von der SD-Karte, über USB funktioniert das so nicht

    • wird der "UltiGCode" korrekt erkannt, oder bekommst Du nach der Auswahl die "Classic Warning" ("...will override machine settings...")?

    • sind die Extruder nach dem Start des Druckes auch wirklich auf der richtigen Temperatur? (bei unter 170°C hättest Du genau den beobachteten Effekt)

     

  12. My request is : can you read one of these free pins (PC7 or PD7) and, if it goes low you pause the printer until it go back high (... maybe you can define it INPUT_PULLUP) ?

     

    I borrowed some code from @NBroenner "filament_sensor" branch and published a test release right now.

    The compiled hex file monitors the PC7 input pin and triggers the pause menu if it is pulled down to LOW (during printing from sdcard *). Resuming the print is done manually via the menu.

    This version has survived a 3 hour print (without a connected sensor of course) - so at least the idea with internal pullup resistor seems to work pretty well.

    @gpb01 - now it's your turn! :)

    * during printing via usb one could probably also pause the print - and resume automatically if the state goes back to HIGH - but this is not implemented (yet).

    • Like 1
  13. Anybody any idea where to find this? @tinkergnome @dim3nsioneer

     

    Search for "extruder_swap_retract_length" - it's hardcoded to 16mm in Marlin_main.cpp...

    ....and can be modified only during printing (Tune -> Retraction -> Extruder change len).

    You should be able to modify it during the heatup stage to examine if it makes any difference.

    Oh...and it is only used if the gcode contains firmware retractions like this: "G10 S1".

    The postfix "S1" triggers the "extruder_swap_retract".

    • Like 1
  14. My request is : can you read one of these free pins (PC7 or PD7) and, if it goes low you pause the printer until it go back high (... maybe you can define it INPUT_PULLUP) ?

    Hi Guglielmo,

    that's nice - i read about this months ago and couldn't find it anymore... now i have back the link :)

    It sounds like you have already bought one of these? Have you already made some explorations with it?

    It's basically the expensive (but complete...) version of the thoughts that Nils recently had (@NBroenner).

    He already discovered the right mapping for these pins on the ATmega2560 - it should be PC7 = 30; PD7 = 38

    Setting the pinMode to INPUT_PULLUP and detecting the LOW-state sounds pretty simple and should be possible without harm to other users... like me.... :)

    I'm inclined to give it a try...

    @NBroenner:

    I think, this behaviour should even be compatible with your idea - because both sensors use the same pin with the same intention (your idea is a lot cheaper of course...). What do you think?

    • Like 2
  15. I think in default firmware you can just start a print, go into tune, rotate the temperature setting back to 0 and it will start.... there's a minimal temperature safety in firmaware for the extruder, but you're not using the extruder...

     

    Just an idea... wouldn't it be easier to avoid UltiGcode for this kind of application?

    Personally i would add a new machine profile in Cura, set the gcode flavor to ‘RepRap‘ and change all temperature settings to zero. That should be all that's needed to skip the heatup stage at all, shouldn't it?

    The 'avoid cold extrusion' feature kicks in and prevents movements of the E-axis - actually a nice spin-off in this case... :)

    While you're at it: consider to deactivate combing and enable z-hop while retracting. @ultiarjan - i'm not sure with the latter - would this even have any effect for this use case...?

  16. Mmmhhh,

    i'm wondering if there are potential mechanical issues with sdcard slots that have to maintain permanently "hop on - hop off" of sdcards...?

    Will it last ...forever... or will the flimsy "springy mechanical thing" give up sooner or later? Which one lasts longer - the PC or the Ulticontroller...

    There's always a way to find a reason...

    72_EmoticonsHDcom.png

    Doesn't matter - i'm still curious if it works... :)

    • Like 1
  17. It would be nice to be able to see the SD card files in other than random order.

     

    The short answer is:

    The Arduino is just a schmuck - a poor devil - it has not enough resources (especially: RAM) to sort the folder content on the fly. Don't forget: it's still just a microcontroller without a huge operating system in the background...

    I found a good explanation of the FAT32 sort order and a possible solution at this code project site.

    Google says: there are quite a few (ready to use) tools out there that can sort files on the USB stick or the sdcard - but this depends on your OS and would be an additional step in the workflow.

    Maybe it's worth a feature request for Cura?

  18. You just have to send the data to the sd-card on the printer. After that it can print completely on its own again. Don't see that being too difficult.

     

     

    And how about accessing the sd-card (which remains in the printer as storage or "cache")? Since it can read it, writing to it shoudn't be too complicated.

     

    After a short look at the available gcode commands, i assume that the tools you need are already there.

    - Connect to the printer via USB

    - Create a new file on the sdcard with M28

    - Send the content of the gcode file line by line, Marlin will write it to the file for you

    - Close the file with M29

    - Select the file with M23

    - Start printing from sdcard with M24

    - Disconnect USB

    Test it with pronterface and a simple file content (e.g.. G28 ) an see if it works.

    Report the result here.

    For convenience:

    Write a script that can do these steps at once.

    Done.

    • Like 1
  19. Assuming you are using Cura 15.04, you should take a look at "File -> Preferences".

    Remove the base path (leave it empty) and it should act like in older versions of Cura.

    (i don't know if there is an equivalent setting for the "new Cura")

    cura_base_folder.png

  20. @tinkergnome was your out door part doing anything mechanical? or was it just sitting there?

     

    The latter (more or less..). It resides out there as a simple spacer between two other parts (wood and aluminium) that are mounted together with screws. There's a little bit of pressure but no mechanical motion. It simply does the job and is very uv stable - still black and shiny like on the first day.

  21. Anyway I guess I will have to order some XT.

     

    At least i can confirm that Colorfabb XT (black) was able to survive the last summer without any deformation or visible degration. Continuous outdoors and exposed to the sun since April (and the summer was fairly hot in Europe this year...)

    I recommend to give it a try...

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