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Posts posted by tinkergnome

  1. It's me again...

    Caution - this is a longer posting - don't read it, if you're in a hurry...

    I've published the next iteration of the custom "tinker" firmware for the Ultimaker2 on GitHub.

    It's based on the actual development version from Ultimaker (15.01-RC5).

    That's why it has the name "Tinker_15.01-RC5".

    Important notice:

    I tinkered these customizations for my own pleasure, if something is not working as you expect... ...please don't hurt the poor old TinkerGnome...

    Of course - comments are always welcome though.

    Still there...? OK, if you ever wanted to become a beta-tester - here is your chance.

    A compiled .hex file is also available (.../Marlin/resources/firmware), but i have no clue, if it is downloadable separately from GitHub - does anyone know how this works?

    Never mind - downloading the whole zip file should work.

    One can conventionally install it on the Ultimaker2 with Cura (Machine -> Install custom firmware).


    - (re-)activated PID-controlling for the printbed temperature

    - added new menu option: Maintenance -> Advanced -> Expert settings (activate the "Geek mode" there)

    - in "Geek mode" the build-plate wizard is moved into the maintenance menu, the "Advanced" step is skipped

    - Redesigned printing screen displaying the Z stage and some tuning parameters,

    now with "instant tuning" - select a parameter and change the target value directly on the printing screen

    (don't get frightened - the color on the led ring works as a "you are doing potentially dangerous things" indicator - tinker patents pending... ;) )


    Um2 geek printing 03


    Greetings from the TinkerCave.


  2. ...

    Finally, is there anyway to change the xyz orientation to match Cura, would be nice not to re-orient the model 90 degrees each time.

    Thanks for the feedback and help


    In recent versions there is an option for that ( i use "Version: 10.7.84")

    1. import .stl file

    2. select "File" -> "Preferences"

    3. select the "File" tab in the dialog

    4. mark the checkbox "Flip Z-Y axis on Import/Export"

    5. click "Done"

    Greetings from the TinkerCave


  3. Hi tinkergnome, you have the .hex of your firmware modified ?


    Yes, of course, but it's still a "work in progress". The .hex-files in my github-repo are not functional yet (probably related to wrong linker options), but you can compile it on your own, this should work.

    I will keep you informed on the other thread.

    Can you give us a short summary about the french thread - seems to be the same topic?

    Greetings from the tinkercave.


  4. ...

    Ich hatte es eben noch mal per Menü ausgerichtet, so wie immer.

    Dann wollte ich drucken, doch das Filament sammelte sich um den Druckkopf.

    Anhand der Kleberschicht auf dem Druckbett sieht es so aus, als seit der Druckkopf zu nah eingestellt (man sieht die Schmierbewegungen).



    Wenn die Motten noch nicht da sind... ein Vorschlag: wasche die Glasplatte mal gründlich ab und versuch es erstmal ohne den Kleber - verschmiert es dann immer noch?


  5. I can confirm that a Factory Reset cures the unacceptably wild temp swings that occur after installing 14.12.1

    I was seeing +/-7 or 8 degree temperature variance that began with 14.12.1, and lots of ERROR STOPPED, which have now dropped back to a degree or so of variation after a reset (better than it had ever been before), and the PIA of being forced through the initial setup again. It sure would be nice to have an Exit option from the setup.

    The instructions and release notes for 14.12.1 should include advice that you Must do a Factory Reset after installing.


    I'm not familiar with the background - just took a look in the GitHub repository.

    One can see in the changelog that the sample rate for the PID was increased in the latest version - to "improve the temperature stability"....

    ....seems somehow to work in your case....

    Simultaneously the proportional, integral and derivative constants (K_p, K_i, K_d) for the PID controller became new defaults for the Ultimaker2.

    This could be an explanation for the fact that it works better after a factory reset.

    Have you changed these values before (via "PID autotune")?

    Nevertheless -

    IMHO the balance between security and stability still needs a little improvement in this version... :wink:

    I'm sure, daid will have a look at the heater validation code when he is back to work after the holidays (among other things of course)....


  6. ..A question I have is, does the new updated firmware have a tighter tolerance causing the error message, and second at the start of the print should there be that much of a swing in temperature? Any thoughts?


    Any firmware version before 14.12 doesn't contain this heater validation at all. It is a security feature introduced with 14.12

    Obviously this leads to problems with some configurations...

    The (over-) swing of the temperature depends (IMHO) on some minor variations of the installation.

    Some people could improve it using a heat-conductive paste for the heater and the sensor. But unmounting the heater is a delicate affair...

    You can also struggle with the software part of the heater controlling - using the PID Autotune.

    But if it had worked in the past - stay at firmware 14.09 (provisional) and be happy...


  7. ...

    Ich habe es endlich geschafft ein Video aufzunehmen, evtl. muss man den Ton etwas lauter stellen, Rattern bei Sekunde 4:



    Yep. Das ist ein "travel move" über die Füllung, das hört sich immer so an..... :wink:

    Es ist also nix kaputt.

    Du könntest in Cura mal versuchsweise das "combing" abschalten, dann wird es etwas besser.

    retraction config

    Vermutlich die bessere Lösung ist das Plugin RetractWhileCombing, dort kann man zusätzlich "Lift head during retract" auf einen Wert größer 0 setzen, dann sollte das Rattern weg sein. Ich hab mit dem Plugin noch keine Erfahrung, aber ein Wert zwischen 0.2 und 0.5 sollte reichen.

    retract while combing


  8. ....

    Wenn der Druckkopf sich nach vorner bewegt (ich weiß nicht welche Achse, X oder Y), rattert er. Das wirkt sich sogar auf das Druckbett aus, denn es vibriert bei Vorwärtsbewegung etwas.

    Was kann ich dagegen tun, bzw. was könnte die Ursache sein?



    Hallo Marcus,

    "rattert" es während der normalen Druckbewegungen, oder nur bei schnellen Bewegungen (travel moves)?

    Falls letzteres zutrifft:

    Je nach Geometrie und aktiviertem "combing" (expert settings) kann es schon mal "rappeln", wenn der Druckkopf schnell über das "Infill"-Muster bewegt wird.Vielleicht ist es ja nur das...?

    Ich würde erstmal noch nicht dran schrauben, wenn der Drucker neu ist.


  9. Diff is my friend but Deal!


    The stuff is on GitHub now. I you want to take a look, use the "geek_mode" branch.

    There are some hardly avoidable modifications in the UltiLCD2* files, but most of the changes are summerized in two new files "tinkergnome.h" and "tinkergnome.cpp". :roll:

    It is based on the actual master branch from Ultimaker, i had the mysterious "heater error" a few times with this version - you should consider to temporarily remove the new heater verification in "temperature.cpp" if you run into problems.

    After installing on the UM2 there is a new entry in the advanced maintenance menu: "Expert settings". This is the place where the "Geek mode" can switched on.

    Important notice:

    The geek mode is already functional but the development is in an early state - and i'm not very familar with GitHub yet....

    Comments are welcome.

    With this in mind - happy merging day!


  10. ...

    OT: Unfortunately, I have too much Christmas stress, and by the way I have to find a good place for my very first PS4, somewhere and somehow near my very old PS3. I think I must first construct a wall bracket. After extremly necessary gaming tests will follow intensive material tests, I promise.

    Bye for now.


    Oh no - don't choose the wrong order of priorities....

    Print a new wall bracket with HT - and kill two birds with one stone... :-P


  11. Maybe you get in contact with Daid and check if UM might be interested to include this solution into the main fork? It's rather close to the UMO display so I see some chances.

    btw: what is the empty line reserverd for? For M117 displays...? :???:


    I'm pretty sure, that David will interfere soon...

    I predict some votes that recommend this idea..., and some good reasons against it - we will see where this would end up...

    As you noticed - some space is intentionally left blank for improvements.

    At first we will need a place for the temperature of the second extruder soon.... :mrgreen:

    Wait a minute...

    Yes, i get it - the M117 is a suggestion for the wish list.... :-P

    But gcode generated from Cura contains no such messages, does it?

    What's your intention...? I'm afraid i've missed something....


  12. ...

    Since I need to customize the firmware anyway (PID mode vs. bangbang), maybe you could publish yours.


    Oohh, thanks that you reminded me.... I nearly forgot: the PIDTEMPBED is enabled too... ;-)

    If my printer is still working.... tomorrow - i will make the fork public on GitHub.

    But the risk is on you...



  13. There was not much traffic for a few months here...


    One thing I'd like to see is the current Z-height of the platform, sometimes I want to watch for a feature to appear which I know is x mm up from the surface.


    The current Z-height is an information i've also missed since i started with the UM2 (only a few weeks ago).

    Unfortunately i have to agree with David in this detail:



    There is always a battle between "people wanting more information" and "keeping stuff KISS".



    An unsolvable issue with those "Nerd"-forks is, that they become a "dead end" sooner or later, if they are not merged into an official branch.

    Nevertheless i could not resist and tinkered a bit with the actual firmware. It is not in a "ready to publish" state, but i think this topic is it worth to be discussed a bit further.

    I've added a switch in the maintenance menu to enable the "Geek mode" and added an alternative printing screen that is shown, when this mode is switched on.

    Um2 geek printing 01

    I tried to stay as close as possible to the official master branch. It doesn't look so nice as Roberts idea, but it should be simpler to maintain this way.

    The informations on the lower half of the screen can also work as "shortcuts" into the particular "Tune" options.

    Disable the "Geek"-Switch and the default screen is back (for the next print).

    It fits my personal needs and i'm pretty happy with it.

    But could this be a way to satisfy different kinds of users - and the management too?

    I dont' know yet... comments are welcome.


  14. It would be when the first layer of shell is printed over the support layer. the second layer is sticking fine but the first layer that is touching the support material is stringy.


    I think, this is (unfortunatly) pretty normal.

    The material sags down and the part looks ugly (from the downside).

    You can try to use a support grid (insteads of the lines) and increasing the fill amount should also help - but it will be harder to remove he support.

    Edit: although we dont't know the function of this model - it could be a better solution to print it in two pieces (without support) and screw / glue the parts together... :?:


  15. ...

    Ist schon ärgerlich, da wir Teile zur präoperativen Planung drucken und die sollten schon ziemlich genau sein. Genau eben zu den CT-Ursprungsdaten.

    Zur Achskalibrierung an unseren 5-Achs HSC Maschinen kann ich nur sagen, dass dies der Hersteller erledigt. Wir fertigen hochpräzise Teile mit 20 micron und dies aus Titan.



    Zum Thema Bilder hochladen hat |Robert| mal ein kurzes Video gebaut:

    (könnte das nicht mal jemand irgendwo oben "anpinnen"....?)

    How to upload an image

    Ich kanns nur nochmal wiederholen: Bilder wären echt hilfreich...

    Ich lese oben heraus, das die Genauigkeit und Oberflächengüte nach und nach schlechter geworden sind?

    Aber bitte auch im Hinterkopf behalten, daß die Präzision bei diesem Druckverfahren und den verwendeten Materialien ihre Grenzen hat - und das die Ultimakers vergleichsweise günstige "Consumer"-Geräte sind.

    Das ist also wahrscheinlich nicht vergleichbar mit Euren anderen Maschinen...

    (ich bin mir noch nicht ganz sicher, wie da Eure "Erwartungshaltung" ist...?)

    Nur mal so zum Vergleich: Darf ich fragen, was Eure Fräsmaschinen gekostet haben und wie hoch die Kosten für den Herstellersupport sind? Vielleicht tut sich da ein neues Geschäftsfeld auf.... "Ultimaker Achskalibrierung - Vorort-Service - monatlich nur xxx EUR" :wink:

    Die Frage nach der Riemenspannung ist noch offen. Man kann versuchen, die kurzen Riemen an den Schrittmotoren der X- und Y-Achse nachzuspannen. Dazu werden die 4 Schrauben, die den jeweiligen Motor halten, etwas gelöst (nicht komplett abschrauben!), dann mit einer Hand den Motor so weit es geht nach unten drücken und die Schrauben wieder richtig fest ziehen. "Richtig" fest ist natürlich immer eine Frage des Gefühls.... nicht vergessen: "nach fest kommt ab"... :wink:

    Auch für das erwähnte Ölen und Nachschmieren gilt: nicht übertreiben - ein Tropfen ab und zu auf die Achsen und Führungen reicht aus.

    Bevor es Bilder gibt, noch ein Blick in die Glaskugel:

    Der Druckkopf muss sich von Hand mit gleichmäßig (geringem) Kraftaufwand über den gesamten Druckbereich verschieben lassen (natürlich nur, wenn er grad nicht druckt...)

    Wenn sich (z.B.) mal jemand "aus Versehen" auf die falsche Stelle aufgestützt hat - und eine der Achsen leicht verbogen ist, - kann das schon einigen Einfluss auf die Präzison haben.... :wink:

    ...oder wenn der Drucker zum Zwecke der Ventilation nah am Fenster steht, können sich die Temperaturdifferenzen jetzt im Winter auch stärker auswirken...

    Es wäre also auch interessant, in welchem "Environment" der Drucker betrieben wird.

    Edit: über die PID-Regelung der Bett-Temperatur würde ich mir nicht zu viele Gedanken machen. Ich konnte damit keinen signifikanten Unterschied feststellen. Die Temperatur vom Heizbett war auch vorher mit der Standard-("Bang-bang")-Methode sehr gleichmässig. Immerhin wird es mit PID auch nicht schlechter... ;-)


  16. ...

    Neither show the Printer temperature field on the "Basic" page.



    As long as you use the GCode-Flavor "UltiGCode" the temperature settings are just hidden.

    If you change the GCode Flavor in the machine settings, the input fields come back...

    The name of the section on the basic page simple keeps its name - independend from the GCode Flavor.

    There is no magical design change. :)


  17. ...

    I tried quite a few variations of spring tension but I am unable to have the feeder stepper spring back when there is too much back pressure. It always grinds filament.

    Interestingly my problem with top surfaces on objects got worse with the new feeder...



    Mmmmhhh, i have only made positive experiences with the feeder.

    According to this: Don't Over-tighten the Material Feeder!!!

    there could be a correlation between these two issues.

    You certainly have noticed that |Robert| has uploaded several variations of the yoke in several lengths.

    A shorter yoke helps to reduce the spring tension and this has potentially positive effects to the consistenty material transport.


  18. Today was the opening of a new art exhibition with the title "Ultimaker R2 - Edition".

    We are proud to introduce several works of art from a well known artist - his name is |Robert|

    Important hint:

    All of them are replicas - any imperfections are not related to the artist.

    First of all - this beautiful Ultimaker2-implant. The artist called it "Cable Chain".


    The name of the next exhibit is "Alternative UM2 Feeder - version two"

    Please take notice of the lovely curves - and it is very functional too!


    Next is the awesome "Low friction UM2 spoolholder".

    Here assembled to an specifically manufactered rack (for the purpose of a benificial presentation):



    Here is our smallest exhibit. The artist gave it the expressive name "Dust Filter".


    As a bonus we are proud to present an early design (published under his former pseudonym "sneakypoo") - a real barnfind. You can already recognize the later artifice of the professional artist. The name is "Earbud holder".

    In contrast to some comments (if you follow the link) the assembly was very easy and personally i like the "clack" too.


    Soooo..... back to topic:

    Here is our latest print - freshly printed and flavorsome. We decided to give this as a gift to the artist. So we announce regretful that it is not longer shown in the official exhibition.... :mrgreen:

    Merry Christmas Robert!



  19. OK, here's a pic. Material is PLA. Cura is version 14.09.


    Looks ugly... :-)

    Ok, some additional suggestions -

    - consider updating the Cura version

    - what is the shell width? Have you tried thicker walls and/or more infill?

    - try to print more than one piece at a time (it doesn't have to be the same model)

    There are ever possibilities for the real tinkerer...:-)

  20. I assume that Cura ignores these settings during the calculation of the estimated print time - so don't worry about this.

    Do you have pictures of the failed attempts?

    First you should try to print with a nozzle temperature as low as possible and with the fans on 100%.

    And you can try to fiddle about the "Cool" section in the "Expert config" Dialog - especially read the hints for "Minimum speed" and "Cool head lift".

    Additionally the possible results for those tiny parts are often depending on the print material...

    Good luck and keep us informed!


  21. Hey I just noticed that the latest firmware update on the UM2 support import/export of the material preset on the sd card


    Anyone tried it?


    Yes, of course. Plain sailing.

    Works exactly like you suggested:


    Maybe saving the customized material preset on the sd card could be done so you can customize the names and share your settings with others.


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