jin1219ca

First, the 4 days response time is real, just got letter from Ultimaker. They said they would refund after receiving the part, sounds good.

4 days..... sounds much better, I sent the letter on 1/23 and will wait and see if they got back today:-) On the assembly manual, it says my part is PT-100, but I don't know if there is any difference between PT-100 and PT-100B. And I'll try to clamp it to see if it works first. Thanks.

Or anyway to fix the PT-100 on my own? It is like I used pliers to take out the wires from the metal sensor part....

Like in my previous post said, I broke the PT-100 heater sensor because I snapped it too hard, so I ordered the replacement for the part. However, I ordered Thermocouple Sensor because on the page it says PT-100B is only for UM2 and mine is UMO+. Now I received the part, but found the part is not what I am looking for and wondering I should order PT-100B instead. Can I know which part should be used? Also, already sent letter to customer support, but based on experience it should take them 2 or 3 weeks to reply. Can I just send it back for refund while placing new order at the same time to save some time?

I got the same problem last week just after finishing the assembly. I don't know if I was right since I am just newbie to this printer. I noticed that even the bolt v.s. screw were tightened, if you spin the gear backward, it will unscrew the screw. So then I tighten everything, remember to put the black plastic into the gap, and then don't dial back the gear even a little bit. You should be fine for printing.

Hi, Was disassembling the hot end to tighten everything for leakage problem, everything goes well but in the end I pulled out the PT 100 with pliers which is still hot due to the warmed hot end. The PVC covering then dissolved and then fell off.... too bad. Can I know may I fix it with anything or can only order one from Ultimaker? Also, the PT 100 for my UMO+ is the same as the Thermocouple Sensor? Thanks.

Now having done 4 piece of flex PLA print, and found the only way to take the print out easily is changing the position of the print to prevent too much solid area stuck on the bed. For example, don't lie the print on the bed totally, flip it up on one side with 30 degree slope angle and remember to print support, then both the printing quality and pulling out effort would be improved greatly.

I've done the tightening for 3 times with cold hot end now, but still got same leaking. Will try hot to see if it improves. Can I know why it has to be hot? just curious?

Just found the leakage was from the bottom of the brass pipe/top of the heater block, and then dripping down to the nozzle and then ends on the print. So I think tightening the connecting of these two parts might work, let's see..

Hi, Redo the whole tightening again, but still got leakage immediately. I'll try to get thread seal tape tomorrow and try if it works. Thanks for the feedbacks here. By the way, since the temperature will hit 220 degree easily, is the tape durable under such heat?

Hi, I am trying my first Flexible PLA with UMO+ heated bed. The print finished well but it just stuck onto the heated bed firmly. I then pulled with force and the print just broke from the bottom layer and the bottom still stuck on the bed now. Can I know how to get such material off? No heating the bed will help? Thanks.

Hi, Just uninstalled, wiped out the residues, and tightened them last night but still got some leakage from the heater block bottom to top of the nozzle. I will take them apart again and try to tighten it harder. Thanks for all the inputs here.

thanks, I do have some leakage from the tube onto the aluminum square and some black on the nozzle. I'll try to wipe out the leaked material first and tighten it up to see how it goes. For the material, I'm using the filaments from Ultimaker directly, will it be a problem for this?

also, there are always some black burn mark on the print, please see the pic below, any solutions? Some of them are only black burnt mark but some did dissolve the surface, seems like the nozzle touched it?

Hi, Just finished assembly of UMO+ and started testing for a few days. For every print, there would always got some black burnt mark on somewhere of the print out. Sometimes there is only some blacks, but sometimes you can see it really kind of burnt and dissolved. Can I know how to solve this? Is it because the bottom layer doesn't stick to the bed so the prints got uneven base and swing a little bit then the nozzle touches the print? Any suggestion would be appreciated. Also, can suggestion for the proper temperature for PLA to be stuck on the bed better? One more stupid question, how to remove the material? I dialed back the feeder gear but it didn't work. Thanks.

Now after some test prints, I found some PLA seems leaking from the Peak and spreads onto the aluminum part above the nuzzle. Can I know if this is ok? or this is the cause that the print quality is far below my expectation? Also any suggestion how to clean it and prevent it from leaking again? Thanks. Matt

I ran without delrin clip, but it seems fine with 2 hours printing. Thanks for the hint for re-making a delrin clip, I'll try and make one to put it on.

Hi, I finished the assembly yesterday and headed into test run directly. So I tried to fill the filament into the feeder and this is my First time! I put the filament in the tube and spin the gear to reel it in. But the cap nut then fell off. So I thought the hobbed bolt should go deeper to the cap nut. When it went deeper to the cap nut, the neck of the hobbed bolt kind of disappear and it became difficult for the delrin clip to hook on it. I put too much force and the clip just broke. Without the delrin clip, I continued test run but the outcomes are bad. The material doesn't feed well that in the middle of printing the material just didn't come out for about 10 layers and then the material came out later. 1. Can I know if this is because I didn't use the delrin clip? or other problems cause it? 2. Also got a question here for the hobbed bolt, do I need to insert it into the nut all the way, or just insert it in middle? but if in the middle, the cap nut will fall out easily while feeding? 3. Can I know if the drawing of the delrin clip is available? Thought I can make one with my UMO+ but can't find it. Thanks. Matt

Just found the xy motors runs well while the test, but thee belt just did not carry the corresponding pulley at all.

thanks. Now moving up to first run check, but my print head doesn't move to the corner position itself, do I need to move it by hand? or anything wrong? The heat bed moves itself well.

Hi, Now finally finished the assembly:-) But got question making the final adjustment on the Z stop switch: It says adjust the height of the z switch until hearing the "click", does it mean the height has to be exactly where it clicks? Or, after the switch clicks, it still should go up a little bit till the switch close fully? Also, for the heated bed alignment, can I buy a horizontal lever and put it on the bed directly? won't this be easier and more accurate? Thanks.

Yes, now I found it. I saw it on the axis but on the manual the shape of the Z-lead nut is different. And with the link provided above I was able to see the real shape from the drawing and finally found it on the Z axis. Thanks a lot.

encounter the same problem putting it in and just thought to open one topic regarding it. now it seems forcing it in is the only option..... will give it a try, hope not to break it.

Thanks for the link and info guys.

Assembling my original plus now, but found the part "z-Lead Nut" was missing. Can I know where to download the drawing of this part from the open source so I can make it from CNC directly?