Jump to content

devilflash

Dormant
  • Content Count

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About devilflash

  • Birthday 11/16/1981

Personal Information

  • Country
    BE
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. Yeah but why now? After 3 years of good services? That's weird.
  2. 1. When I check in Cura the top/bottom speed, it's 15mm/s. But it wasn't ticked before I check. I imagine it's still the speed used for first layers. What is strange is that I never changed anything in the settings. I've printed hundreds and hundreds of hours without having any issue with the adhesion. In fact, I use Cura with default setting except for layer height, adding support or brim, and rarely printing speed. Don't know why that happens now. The thing is, two weeks ago I had some issue with bad under extrusion, so I checked the heat block, PTFE coupler and so on. I planned to change the coupler and some part so I bought an Olsson Block V3, matchless nozzle (that can print faster with same temperature or with a cooler temperature at the same speed). I changed some time ago the heat cartridge from the 25W stock to a 35W. 3. I will try a .3 layer height and give some feedback. 5. I will try it with a brand new filament spool. 7. It starts at the second pass. I can't remember precisely where but I think almost everywhere. I'll check that though. 8. I stopped after maybe 5-6 passes 9. will do Thanks!
  3. Print temperature: 210° Filament: PLA Layer height: 0.2mm Speed: 80mm/sec Bed Temperature: 60° 1. Yep, it's a brim. For this kind of object (raspberry case, so, large but not high), I usually don't use a brim but in this case, yep, it's a brim. 2. It looks like it yeah...but that doesn't explain why the first passage looks fine and it starts to make a mess after nor the grinding noise from the extruder. Also, it's well leveled prior the printing. 3. Not sure what your mean with nozzle to bed distance but I went through a large amount of bed leveling cycle with the paper to get the 0.1mm distance just right. 4. I tested with the glass only, with an adhesive print surface evenly applied (buildtak). 5. I checked most of the part of my printer. I checked the frame, looks fine, I checked the heat block with the cartridge and the sensor, they look fine, the axes look fine, I put a ruler on the glass, doesn't look concave or convex... I should check with a spirit level. That's the last thing I can think of. I did the bed calibration tens of times with nozzle to bed distance in the same process as many times as the bed leveling process. 6. see 5. 7. see 5. 8. I even tried that after a nozzle to bed distance done during bed leveling phase. When I make a bed leveling/nozzle to bed calibration, I always check the first layer to see if it needs some tweaking on the fly. Thank you for taking the time to answer! I wish you all a merry christmas eve Antoine
  4. Hello everyone and merry Christmas! I come to you for a problem who took me by surprise without any announcement. Some parts of the bed seem too high and others too low. I try to print something and the first pass of the rim goes well, it seems the filament sticks well on the buildplate (I tried with bare glass, buildtak, the glass turned upside down, with flexplate) but on the second pass the filament doesn't stick anymore in the back of the surface as you can see on the picture. I hear some grinding noise from the extruder (a bondtech...I cleaned the gears to see if THAT was the problem, didn't solve anything and it has plenty grip power)... I really don't know where it can come from. Yesterday, I changed my heatblock for a 3D Solex matchless with adapted nozzle, a brand new steel hot end isolator and brand new TF2K300C coupler. I checked the heat cartridge, the sensor (maybe the filament was too cold to glue)...they look well attached, they didn't move. I try to correct the bed height on the fly with the 3 screws...doesn't help much. Damn, I've my printer for 3 years now and I start to have more and more problem with it. I succeeded hundreds of hours of printing on a Mark46 Iron Man armor the past month and for the last 3 weeks I've problems on problems...my nerves are more tense than a convoy belt! Any helps are welcome! Antoine
  5. Well, the problem is that the model is perfectly flat. It has been cut in netfabb. And if I don't put the support material, I don't have this problem. It only occurs when I use support Pretty weird huh?
  6. Hi everyone I haven't tried it in a print but when I add supports on a print, Cura (3.0, 2.3,...) only shows supports on layer 1 even if the model has a flat surface. The model appears on the second layer Layer 1: Layer 2: It's quite strange. Thank you
  7. Hi everyone, I've got a problem during printing, you can see it on the pictures. When printing the lower layers, there is a problem of the alignment of the layers. It occurs only once on the print and the rest is flawless. What could be the problem? What should I check? I had to change the stepper motor from X axis but the motor from Y axis is fine. Thanks for any suggestion! DF
  8. Je vais tester quelques trucs ce week-end. Pour les paramètres d'impression: 220°, 85mm/sec, 0.1mm de couche. J'ai plusieurs centaines d'heures d'impression à mon actif et j'ai le même problème avec plusieurs cartes SD. Le firmware tinker que j'ai est le dernier 16.12
  9. So, to make it short: Make a gcode file with: M907 E1000 M92 E492.45 M500 Then: - swap extruder cables - install default firmware - install gcode - restore to factory default - print as usual
  10. @bondtech Thanks for the answer. I haven't tinker with eeprom and gcode to modify firmware so I have a few question. I already installed the tinkergnome firmware and changed current and e-steps. If I install a new firmware do I still have to make the change? To make the change from a gcode I assume I just have to "print" the gcode so it's loaded in the firmware. Should I only do this once or should I "print" the gcode before every print I make? What about the current sent to the motor? Is there a gcode for that too? I made the change in Tinkergnome but I'd rather not fry the motor by sending it 1300mA. So what I should do to keep original firmware: - install default firmware - "print" gcode - swap two cables to invert motor rotation - anything else? Thank you for the leads
  11. J'avoue ne jamais avoir bidouillé les eeprom de mon Ultimaker 2. Les valeurs à modifier sont pour le feeder: E-step = 492.45 E current = 1000 mA Comment modifier ça? Faut-il ne le faire qu'une fois? Est-ce que cela nécessite une version particulière de Cura? Y'a-t-il des limitations pour éviter que ça ne se modifié à nouveau par la suite? D'autres informations utiles à connaître dans les modification d'Eeprom?
  12. The gcode and custom ultimaker2 firmware aren't available anymore on bondtech website. The only solution still available is to install 16.08.2 Tinkergnome Firmware
  13. Can't because Bondtech extruder needs to modify the steps and current of the feeder motor. It's impossible to do with default firmware, I think. Tinkergnome: I'll try to contact Bondtech to see if they have something in stock for the firmware.
  14. Le problème du firmware d'origine c'est qu'on ne peut pas changer les steps du moteur d'extrusion ce qui pose problème avec le Bondtech. J'attends de voir s'il y'a une réponse du développeur de tinkergnome.
  15. I noticed that I got this error too. Don't know if it's everytime because I don't keep my printer near me. I printed two projects of 18 hours without problems then the problem appeared so I'm in the exact same situation.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!