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supersurfer

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  1. Yes, UMO+ I have seen the crossflow fan system,this impairs the reachability of the bed. I will make a separate cover for the hot end with a piece of aluminium sheet and keep the original fan duct to be able to build back to original state. This will make the fan system similar to the UM2 and expect it will improve print quality. I have noticed bad quality prints on the other side of the fan due to bad cooling on that side, depending on geometry of the print. Regards,
  2. Hi, I am thinking of changing the original fan for two smaller 40x40mm fans with plastic fan ducts. This will make the head lighter by losing the bigger fan and stainless steel fan duct. I might need to put some insulation around the hot end not to melt the fan ducts. Anybody done anything similar?
  3. I have found the cause! I have discovered that the press wheel in the extruder is deformed due to the high pressure on the filament. This has led to the wheel getting stuck thus giving higher than expected friction in the extruder. It seems the wheel material is not strong enough. Thank you guys for your support! Regards,
  4. I have changed the standard clamps for a moon cactus design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45236 At first I did not think this will be of any influence in the under extrusion problems but I am wondering if this might not be the problem.
  5. Hi, The picture of the board is from an UMO I presume, I have the UMO+ which has the UM2 white pcb. See picture; no jumpers present. I have no new Z axes or stepper, so no change there. Tested Z axes: 10mm stepped with ulticontroller measures 10mm. Tested E axes, extruded 100mm of filament (through the ulticontroller). This is the outcome: thread of 0,5mm thick, Length=2615mm. If I calculate it correctly this amounts for 513mm3 of PLA. I also marked the PLA and moved 10mm with the extruder, this is exactly 10mm. The printed parts have exactly the same size as before. There is no grub screw on the extruder gear wheel, it has a flat surface so it is not able to move on the shaft. It seems to be a complex problem :sad:
  6. Hi Luke, If I hold the filament under the extruder I can feel it being pulled in nicely. Maybe the settings in the machine are off by some strange reason ( I have kids who also use the printer). Reading the settings on the ulticontroller: under control/temperature/ PID-P: +022.20 PID-I: +001.08 PID-D: + 114.00 PID-C: 1 under control/motion/ Accel: 4000 Vxy-jerk: 20 Vz-jerk: +000.40 Ve-jerk: 5 Vmax X: 500 Vmax Y: 500 Vmax Z: 30 Vmax E: 25 Vmin: 0 VTrav min: 0 Amax X: 9000 Amax Y: 9000 Amax Z: 100 Amax E: 10000 A-retract: 3000 Xsteps/mm: +078.74 Ysteps/mm: +078.74 Zsteps/mm: +0200.0 Esteps/mm: +836.0 I do not know what it all means. Is there an explanation of this somewhere on this forum? Can anybody see a wrong setting? Regards,
  7. Good point! I found one screw loose, it was on the non driven shaft in the front though. I did a test print and it does not look better.
  8. I discovered using an Ipad does not display all functions of the post editor, better to use a laptop...... so here are some pictures: Here you can see the thread does not fuse with the others next to it. the bottom piece is something I made earlier and is like a completely loose bunch of thread. the extruder dents the filament, I see some repetitive pattern, this is possibly retraction?
  9. Hi gr5, Thank you for your reply. I exchanged the complete hotend and it still displays the same problems as before so it's not 2. The temp reading shows ambient temp when I switch on, so I guess it is not 1. Also: the pla flows well when pushing through by hand. I have tried different filaments that used to work well so I guess it's also not 3. When I insert the filament it's pushed in easy and I do not notice any more friction than before. Than maybe 4? I get an even teeth mark on the filament. It does not display grinding. I will try to post pictures. Regards,
  10. Hallo Olaf, De link om de lagers naar binnen te plaatsen werkt niet. Kan je een goede link plaatsen? Mvg,
  11. Ik vraag me af waarom 3mm draad problemen zou geven. Lijkt mij dat er voldoende speling in de bowden tube zit voor deze diameter.
  12. Hi, I hope someone can help me here. I have some serious underextrusion problems. I am basically unable to print anything, the layers/ lines are to thin and do not stick to each other. Slower printing makes the problem less but still underextrusion is visible. I use an UMO + with heated bed. I have changed my complete hotend for a new one ( incl. Peek and ptfe piece) so clogging is not a cause. This did not help. The extruder seems to work fine, there is no grinding. I reflashed the marlin software to solve any sorftware issues that mught cause the problems, no effect. I try printing gcode models that I have printed before with succes. They all come out with the same problems. I use white PLA from ultimaker. I would like to post some pictures but I see no method in the web interface for this. Hope anybody can help. Regards,
  13. Hi, I had a lot of trouble with grinding/slipping filament with a new elastic PLA from Form Futura; the Flexifil. After three times removing the filament in the bowden tube I gave up. I do not know if this has something to do with the tension only; the flexifil is quite flexible and probably has this trouble because it is more easily compressed. would it be recommendable to screw up the tension even more? Regards,
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