personal-drones
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Posts posted by personal-drones
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I heard that the designer works as a postman, part time
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gr5 yessss! Thank you.
I did not remember it was so nice, so much nicer than my own setup
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/11310-accessory-purchases-for-new-user
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In the "Prints" section, what about adding a "Chronological" (or "sort by latest") to this menu:
Sorting on the basis of likes makes a lot of sense, but should be an option and not the only way, so as to give some chances to the latest prints.
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I don't get how points are computed for profiles.
In my profile, the "points" section shows:
Total should be 245, however in my profile summary I see:
with 87 points total.
Either I don't get it, or the computation is wrong somewhere.
Sander, any comment on this?
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Not sure if this was mentioned already. If someone "likes" a post, I can see the like but not WHO liked it. This is a serious flaw to the "Like" mechanism the way I see it.
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I am totally unable to find a post by Izzy on the old forum in which he posted a few photos about the lazy susan setup he made for it's printer. Would really love to see these photos again. Izzy not sure if you know where your old post is, or if you could repost the photos maybe.
This inspired me to make something similar for my UM2. Indeed one problem with the UM2 design is that you do have to be able to access the rear easily, for managing the filament spool. This limits the places in which you can operate the machine.
My best spot for the UM is a table with a wall behind. I could not place the UM there, until I made the setup I show in the pictures below. Hope this can be of inspiration for someone else.
This is the lazy susan I used:
Not really the best, not sure I can recommend it. It works, but next time I will probably get a different one.
I just used a piece of tough plastic similar to this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/tagliere-in-polietilene-bianco-cm-50-x-40-x-2-/181136898018
just layed on top of the lazy susan (unsecured, but this lazy susan has some small rubber foots, on both the inner and outer ring, opposite sides, that keep the thing in place), and the printer on the top of that. Some anti vibration very thick tape pieces - Anti vibration tape -
were used to avoid the printer from moving on the plastic surface. Izzy's setup used a nice and heavy piece of wood instead of the plastic, which looked much better. I just used what I had around for now. Will probably make a version 2 with a proper piece of wood.
The UM top cover and bottom drawer are from http://www.3dprinterstore24.de/, nicely done stuff.
Full size: http://www.my3d.systems/uploads/IMG_1431.jpg
Full size: http://www.my3d.systems/uploads/IMG_1434.jpg
Full size: http://www.my3d.systems/uploads/IMG_1436.jpg
Full size: http://www.my3d.systems/uploads/IMG_1437.jpg
Full size: http://www.my3d.systems/uploads/IMG_1438.jpg
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Swordriff thank you for this post. The community was temporarily "disrupted" by the software changes, I trust it will slowly reform around the new platform.
One of my most serious problems at the moment is to find some old posts I was following.
For instance, there was an Izzy post with some pictures of his lazy susan setup that I would really wish to find, as a reference, as I am implementing a similar (although less elegant) solution. No way for me to find all Izzy's posts. If I go to his profile I only see the very last posts, and no way to see the older ones. If I search "Izzy" with the search box, only 1 post come out, in which someone mentions him (and this is not the post I am looking for). This is badly implemented for now, this is a top priority for me here to be able to find ALL the posts by someone. Can this be done right now?
Swordriff, let's keep up with the "good work" and have conversation on this new forum flowing. I think that when the main "bugs" or missing features will be fixed, it will be not bad at all eventually.
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There is a bug that should be easily fixed in the pages graphical layout.
If a username is too long it will "spill" in the column of the posts.
See the red arrow in the picture below.
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Mon ami Rigs, nice to see you again! Now, I haven't followed closely the forum lately, for the well know reasons. Is the "Friends" feature gone? Hope it can be restored back, I loved to have forum friends
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Hello everyone, just a quick post to say that I was finally able, today, to reset my password and login, after much struggle with the password reset form that was just keeping reloading itself. Today, it worked. I would like to say THANK YOU SO MUCH to Sander and to Zenalda of customer support for the great and careful assistance during these days of exclusion, it was not funny to be locked out from my favorite community. Also thank you so much to Swordriff who has been really helpful and supportive in this period.
I hope that, as myself, now also the other members who were locked out can be back. Anders Olson and Dim3nsioneer, time to try again to reset this password!
See you all on the forums! Cheers - PD
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There is a special section of 3DHubs especially for getting Ultimaker samples, even with your own file:
https://www.3dhubs.com/ultimaker
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Ok je vais essayé ça merci =)
Pis en y regardant bien avec les pièce dessus c'est pas si mal :grin:
Beaucoup mieux mais pas encore parfait, peut etre parceque il y a encore un place libre dans la file des buses? (LOL)
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Bon est voila le résultat :
C'est ... magnifique :grin:
Super! LOL
On dirait de la sous extrusion. Tu pourrait essayer:
plateau 70°C + laque pour cheveux (bien mieux de la colle, moins "invasif" sur la buse et ca tient très bien)
layer 0.2
vitesse 25 partout
flow 103%
Le dessin est très joli, j'aimerais bien voir ca sur youmagine
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- D'un coté on a 3Dsolex qui a sortie une nouvelle tete chauffante qui permet d'adapter des buses de diametres differents, d'un autre coté on a e3D qui a sorti des nouvelles buses avec des diametres assortis allant du 0,2 au 0,8mm. j'ai bien compris?
Si oui, est ce qu'on peut m'expliquer clairement quels sont les avantages d'imprimer en 0,8 plutôt qu'en 0,4natif?: rapidité, solidité?.
Si c'est ça, alors quel est l'interet d'imprimer en 0,2mm?
J'adore l'idée de pouvoir changer la buse facilement, ne serait ce que par economie (reparation).
Mais je ne trouve nul part les avantages/inconvenients des versions cuivre/inox?
Merci à la communauté!
La tete 3D solex (Olson block) accepte buses de differents diametres, comme par example celles de E3D, mais il y a aussi des autres producteurs. 3Dsolex va sortir ses propres buses, appelées "Jet", mai c'e n'est pas encore disponible. Le Olson block est expedié avec des buses E3D pour le moment.
0.8 permet d'imprimer BEAUCOUP plus vite, et avec un layer heigh majeur (moi je suis arrivé a 0.6 sans problemes). Pour des pieces qui ne demandent pas un grosse resultion, c'est super. Tu peut faire en 3h une piece qui normalement prendrait 24 h.
0.25 permet d'atteindre une resolution bien majeure du 0.4. Encore pas essayé mais j'ai vu des resultats super de Swordriff. C'est tres lent.
0.6 est un bon compromis entre 0.4 et 0.8. Tu peut aller vite et maintenir une bonne resolution.
Les buses en acier c'est pour imprimer avec des materiaux abrasifs comme XTCF20 ou Bronzefill. C'est seulement pour ca, c'est moins performant du cuivre et il faut imprimer plus lentement.
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Bravo a Didier pour avoir pensé au retractions, c'était pas evident. On oublie parfois que certains problems peuvent etre liés non pas a la machine, mais a la piece du moment.
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Super!
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It is underextrusion. What are your settings for the second print?
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Was anyone else finding this happening again yesterday evening? Hopefully UM now pays their bills, so maybe the provider needs a slap upside the head?
Yes, my account was suspended again yesterday
Not sure what I did wrong this time :-P -
Le coup de lime a l'interieur ca va aider, et probablement ca va resoudre le probleme pour un peu. Mais la vraie solution c'est de changer le teflon avec un nouveau, car la lime ne va pas resoudre la deformation (rainure) a l'interieur du cilindre.
Faut toujours avoir deux ou trois coupleur "spare".
Tu pourrai aussi considerer de adopter le I2K insulator:
http://3dsolex.com/?page_id=17
qui va considerablement prolonger la vie de tes coupleurs. Moi je l'ai monté et je suis tres content, pour l'instant j'ai l'impréssion que ca marche tres bien.
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Une chose que tu pourrait faire c'est de laisser tomber l'ABS pour une ou deux semaines. Si tu alterne ABS et PLA, et si des petits debris de ABS restent dans le circuit, quand tu passe au PLA ca va bloquer tout. Donc pour avoir une vision plus claire de ce qui se passe ici, enlever cette possibilité de l'equation ca pourrait etre une bonne idee. Quand tout marche bien avec le PLA et tu as fait un peu de pratique, tu peut revenir a l'ABS.
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Le téflon à même pas une semaine la machine est neuve.
ça devient saoulant de tout demonter à chaque fois
Le debugging c'est toujours saoulant. Au debut j'ai eu les memes problemes que toi. La solution? Changer le coupleur teflon. Ca vaut la peine de controller, demonter le hot end ca prends 5 minutes. Bonne chance.
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A friend ( Panoramix ) gave me the recipe for a magic potion
Those druids always have some interesting secrets
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Le coupleur teflon, ca vaut la peine de le regarder de tres pres. Donc tu pourrait demonter ton hot end, sortir le coupleur teflon, et regarder bien la partie en bas, qui normalement est en contact avec la buse. C'est un peu carbonisé? Comme ca:
et si tu regarde a l'interieur, du meme coté, est ce que tu peut voir une rainure comme ca:
Si le teflon est endomagé, ca pourrait etre la cause de tes soucis et il faut le changer.
Il faudrait voir si le teflon n'est pas détérioré.
Si tu le démonte, tu en profite pour prendre un foret Ø 3.2 mini (perso j'ai percé à Ø 3.5).
C'est possible que ça soit lui qui bloque le filament, même si la buse est bien débouchée.
Le bout de fil rongé, tu le coupe et tu recommence avec du neuf ? car sinon il se peux que ça soit lui qui force dans le bowden.
Not sure what I did wrong this time :-P
Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Definitely interested in the RSS and RSB. 1 mm VERY interesting. Is it available at 3dsolex yet?