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izzy

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  • Country
    GB
  • Industry
    (Product) design
    Engineering

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  1. Have you looked at running Octoprint, using a Raspberry Pi running octo print you can create a Fillamentum runout switch and Octoprint will pause the print and notify you.
  2. It could be that you haven’t set infill line direction? It might need 0 or 45 etc.
  3. Yes S3D is Simplify3D. it is worth the money, although apparently the new Cura is better some say but I try both and the new S3D has the options almost the same but it works with all my printer types.
  4. I’ll watch with interest for your success, at the moment at least I know S3D works across the range of printers I access, UM2, Wanhao Di3+, Wanhao D4, Zmorph VX.
  5. I’ve done that but I can’t find out how to set up the second extruder, I can’t find where it is etc.
  6. At the moment I do have S3D and it works great, much better than the slicer that came with the D4 on its SD card, but I would like to also be able to use CURA as it does say it supports the D4.
  7. This is my hood I’ve had for a few years now, made from Perspex with printed brackets etc works well, available from https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-hood-simple-to-make I also have a simple Perspex lift off door.
  8. I’m not sure if you can fit an Olson Block or even a matchless Block, if you can then with the various Nozzles available you can fit an I2K washer between the block and the Teflon this greatly improves wear problems, I think I change mine every 6 months.
  9. I have an old UPS and about once every 3 months I do a test print of a robot and reduce the speed so that it will take about 90 minutes, I then switch of the plug and check how long the UPS will keep it running before it fails, I’m on about 45-50 minutes. due for another test run soon.
  10. If you select it and one in a new tab it opens the report.
  11. Hi Rudy, I managed to borrow a Polysher from 3DFilaPrint to do some more realistic models from the one that were used in the advitising to do a field test report on, I have attached the link to the file on their web site For the Braq dragons we printed we found that they had to be left for a week to air dry and harden before being assembled otherwise they would stick together. Fine detail would be lost during the treatment and depending on the surface finish etc we could be using a 50 minute cycle time for some parts. Thin wall parts including the vase could collapse and if a filagree type print was too fine it would basically desolve away.
  12. I have been running with a Bondtech QR for over a year now and it’s excellent. I was testing a CF filament and the origional feeder was struggling to grip it due to the Filaments surface finish, the QR managed it easily. As well as the CF filament it also handled all the others easily including some very flexible filaments, with good PLAs at decent settings it could print the volumetric test peice and manage 10mm3/s which was the maximum I had on the test piece.
  13. can you add the details and photos of the installation and fitting including the chip heatsinks etc. :-)
  14. As E3D already produce a sock for their V6 a a very reasonable price, and have therefore done all the reasearch and development do you think they would produce them to suit the Olsson block and the matchless block as well? There's enough of us using them to probably make it viable for them to do it commercially.
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