izzy
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Posts posted by izzy
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It could be that you haven’t set infill line direction? It might need 0 or 45 etc.
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Yes S3D is Simplify3D.
it is worth the money, although apparently the new Cura is better some say but I try both and the new S3D has the options almost the same but it works with all my printer types.
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I’ll watch with interest for your success, at the moment at least I know S3D works across the range of printers I access, UM2, Wanhao Di3+, Wanhao D4, Zmorph VX.
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I’ve done that but I can’t find out how to set up the second extruder, I can’t find where it is etc.
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At the moment I do have S3D and it works great, much better than the slicer that came with the D4 on its SD card, but I would like to also be able to use CURA as it does say it supports the D4.
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Looks a really nice setup.
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This is my hood I’ve had for a few years now, made from Perspex with printed brackets etc works well, available from https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-hood-simple-to-make I also have a simple Perspex lift off door.
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I’m not sure if you can fit an Olson Block or even a matchless Block, if you can then with the various Nozzles available you can fit an I2K washer between the block and the Teflon this greatly improves wear problems, I think I change mine every 6 months.
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I have an old UPS and about once every 3 months I do a test print of a robot and reduce the speed so that it will take about 90 minutes, I then switch of the plug and check how long the UPS will keep it running before it fails, I’m on about 45-50 minutes.
due for another test run soon.
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If you select it and one in a new tab it opens the report.
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Hi Rudy, I managed to borrow a Polysher from 3DFilaPrint to do some more realistic models from the one that were used in the advitising to do a field test report on, I have attached the link to the file on their web site
For the Braq dragons we printed we found that they had to be left for a week to air dry and harden before being assembled otherwise they would stick together. Fine detail would be lost during the treatment and depending on the surface finish etc we could be using a 50 minute cycle time for some parts. Thin wall parts including the vase could collapse and if a filagree type print was too fine it would basically desolve away.
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I have been running with a Bondtech QR for over a year now and it’s excellent. I was testing a CF filament and the origional feeder was struggling to grip it due to the Filaments surface finish, the QR managed it easily. As well as the CF filament it also handled all the others easily including some very flexible filaments, with good PLAs at decent settings it could print the volumetric test peice and manage 10mm3/s which was the maximum I had on the test piece.
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can you add the details and photos of the installation and fitting including the chip heatsinks etc. :-)
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As E3D already produce a sock for their V6 a a very reasonable price, and have therefore done all the reasearch and development do you think they would produce them to suit the Olsson block and the matchless block as well?
There's enough of us using them to probably make it viable for them to do it commercially.
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... https://grabcad.com/library/human-spine-1
Geometry is not so much the challenge but using Filaflex which is one most difficult to print flexible filaments on bowden setups (and with a standard UM 2+ feeder).
Have you tried a little light oil in the Bowden tube?
I modified Roberts guide for the feeder and I now have a small hole running through from the back, I then insert a small pipe cleaner in with a few drops of oil on it . I still get the odd bit of under extrusion from FilaFlex from Recrues but I like the filament.
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Did the leak come from the block to nozzle thread?
Disassemble the fan duct to get better access, not meaning to blow own trumpet but check out my fan ducts on the YouMagine site, https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct-v2
Not sure if they fit the new fans but they should do, these allow you to fully see the print nozzle, you can adjust the height from the workpiece, and they swivel out of the way for maintenance.
Also did you print off and use Andes torque tool for tightening the nozzle.
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If it's around the outside of the nozzle and you can access it with some needle nose pliers, heat the nozzle upto about 100'C then pull it away with the pliers, a sort of external atomic clean. If you can't access it you may need to remove the fan duct first.
If the nozzle was coated in PLA it would seem that it wasn't quite tight enough in the block, but be careful not to over tighten.
To clear the treads you may need to heat up to 215 and wind in the nozzle to clean out the tread a bit and repeat it a few times, again if it is able to form a small bit you can grab with fine pliers drop the temperature to 100 and atomic pull it,.
Worst case, you will have to remove the block, strip it down removing heater and sensor the use a small gas torch to burn out the filament without melting the brass.
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I use Roberts feeder which works well for me with the snap on guide, use a little oil in the Bowden tube to reduce friction.
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Problem solved, there was a problem with my antivirus, it would allow previous versions to run ok but the new version it would block part running, I have now authorised the various aspects of the new Cura and its running fine
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Hi guys, loaded the new Cura, rebooted the computer, gone into Cura setup my machine and preferences in the system, loaded a part to check and test out, and it sits there saying "preparing to slice..." And going nowhere.
Any suggestions?
Izzy
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Yes 4 perimeters,
I'm using Recreus FilaFlex.
Nozzle Temperature 240'C
Speed 10mm/s so very slow.
Layer, 0.15 or 0.2mm.
Print them at 45' angle
There is a set of files for the fingers at 45' with supports
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Nothing is 100.000%, glad they sorted you out with a fresh roll.
Now you have an idea to design a gauge that you tread your fillament through that will alarm if the filament is too large
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Contact the supplier, report the problem and you may well find they will replace the reel as it is faulty there may be more than one ocurance in the reel.
Don't rant and rage be polite and you will likely be treated well.
Good luck
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Hi Zxen, they are printed at 45' with support structure, I have been a bit busy recently so have not or finished all the finger, I was testing some for feel by having a gif fervent number of surface skins, 3 skins felt a little soft so I have settled on a thickness of 4 skins.
UM3 End of filmamant
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Have you looked at running Octoprint, using a Raspberry Pi running octo print you can create a Fillamentum runout switch and Octoprint will pause the print and notify you.