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izzy

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Everything posted by izzy

  1. I keep all of my filaments in sealed bags with the absorbent bags,in a large plastic box, but still do notice some bubbling in the head with nylon, the NinjaFlex was bubbling when it was too hot 220'C it bubbled, 218'C printed ok, but it could change slightly next time. I know some have posted about heating to about 30'C in an oven for an hour to remove moisture in other posts for material that are prone to water absorbe.
  2. I've just looked at my settings for both NinjaFlex and SemiFlex. I print both at the same settings of, Nozzle Temperature, 218'C Bed Temperature, 30'C Speed, 25mm/s ( I leave my speed set to 75mm/s in Cura for all parts, that way I can vary the speed for each material, and so reduce print speed to 30% on the machine) Material Flow Rate, 145%, (some recommend higher up to 200%) If printing with NinjaFlex I also add a drop or two of 3in1 oil to a pipe cleaner I loop around the filament just before the feeder,( un-oiled it acts as a dust remover) this reduces the friction in the Bowden tube.
  3. I'm getting small samples of various filaments to see how they print and try and find the right settings. I've not tried ABS yet as I need to build a hood for my UM2, Protomold Pasta have a nice PLA called Aromatic Coffee, it seems to print nicely and has a smell of roasting coffee when you print it, and has a slight transparent look, but if you heat treat it at 110'C for about 1 hour, it turns slightly opaic. Its one I would add to my set, I'm also going to try their pine one.
  4. I've some samples of Kai Parthys' Lay Filaments, and last weekend printed off 2 sets of each of the Ultimaker Robot and a Material Tag for each of the four materials to assess. One set of each are left as printed, the second set have been soaking for the last four days in water to soften. LayFelt is made from a elastomeric polymer and a PVA-component. LayGel and the LayFomm's are made from a rubber-elastomeric polymer and a PVA-component. All four are described as experimental on Kai Parthys web site, to soften the PVA after printing you soak them in water as they recommend. Took a little while to get the settings correct and I'm not happy with my temp for LayFelt as it is still prone to delaminate, but the second phase is now complete and I have removed them from the soak, as you can see from the photo below they have altered in geometry, especially in the 'Z' axis, this is for all pieces even the failed print bits with open top and bottom surfaces, and the LayFelt and LayGel are delicate so I've not pinched them yet to see how flexible they are. The next stage is to dry them out over the next few days, I'm not going to heat them up I'm just going to let them air dry at room temperature, then I will assess them and add my findings to this post.
  5. I've just finished printing the whole of the 1st finger in FilaFlex using the last of my sample, it would probably do with a wall thickness of 1.6mm or 2mm I only had enough filament to do it with 1.2mm walls and it's a bit too spongy. It was built at 45 degrees with support but as you can imagine it gets a bit wobbly as it gets to the top so slow the print speed down even more to about 20mm/s. It also leaves to some post cleanup, doesn't file well, not tried dremel sanding but was using a sharp scalpel. I'm going to try getting a 5m or 10m sample of their Skin1 and try again with a thicker wall thickness. I got the Proto Pasta samples, and printed off 2 Sets of tags and UM robots for each material, 1 of each is now soaking in water to soften, I will show a photo at the end of the week of the printed and then softened samples.
  6. I've just finished assembling the Flexy-Hand 2, I used Faberdashery Architects Stone PLA for the main parts, and "FilaFlex" by "Recreus" in silver for the flexible hinges, it is similar to "NinjaFlex" in properties (which I only had in Green). I also printed the Thermoform Mesh but used "FlexiFil" from "FormFutura" which has produced a firm but semi-flexible palm. My personal view is that the "Flexi-hand" although looks more realistic it is bulky, the flexible hinges are not as good as elastic cords, I think a redesign of the "Raptor" could produce a more realistic slimmer/smaller version of the hand perhaps using a flexible hinge but using elastic cords to open the fingers.
  7. I've not tried Flex1000 but the others i have tested it does vary, I would start with a very simple test piece that only takes a few minutes such as a small label a few mm thick and only about 16mm square, start at the mid range of the temperature and normal speed, then 1/2 the speed, and see if its better. then adjust the temperature and check, I print 6 at a time starting at the maximum temperature and then drop 4 degrees between each part, I then repeat at 50% speed and adjust from there, Some times i have found that i need to increase to 120% flow rate. Flexable filaments i have found need a bit of testing to find a good setting.
  8. Hoi Arjan, sorry about that, the shapeoko looks a great home CNC kit, I watched the construction video and it looks interesting for a 3 axis machine, I couldn't find a UK supplier for a pricing in the UK but will keep looking.
  9. Quite interested in your Shapoko3 Jan, you will have to start a thread and keep us informed 8)
  10. Im tempted to put something together using a Lego Mindstorm, a motorised system that would drive a reel as the take up reel pulling the filament off of the treated reel perhaps past a hair drier set on low heat to remove the moisture without over heating the filament.
  11. Cheers anakin, worth a try, even if it's not perfect it can be used for testing.
  12. Hi guys, I must admit that I've been testing lost of different makes of filament but my two favourites are Faberdashery and ColorFabb, both PLAs not a fan of the XT, and yet to test the N-Gen. the TwoBears Linen is also nice, not tried the silk as its only 1.75mm For the flex materials I drop the speed down, I use PLA setup for the Cura files but then dial the speed down to 30% to 50% of the set up which I usually set to 75mm/s based on the std Ultimaker Robot File. Yet to test ABS materials, but I got some Kai pathy Porolay today which you print and then soak in water to soften for a do at or so, will print them off in the next few days and let you know.
  13. Hi Tasopoulos, looks nice I like the colours, which make and colours did you use? Cheers James, I had built the parts before I read your post but I cleaned them out anyway. The only thing I found was that I need to reprint the proximal phalanx (bottom piece) for the index, ring and little finger as they need to be mirrored. I've printed the flexly bits in "Recreus" "FilaFlex" as I had it in silver, it's simular in flex to NinjaFlex but I only had that in bright lime green. Did you use adhesive to fix the flexi pieces in the fingers?
  14. Cheers tinker, done the splitting just got to try some builds.
  15. Does ant body know where I can get the individual parts for the flexy hand fingers? I've had two unsuccessful builds that have failed using the finger build plate where there was not enough support, I want to be able to build each part one at a time, and orientation of my choosing.
  16. Hi Marcus, I would get it from 3dsolex, also do you know what the wattage of the heater element?, it's worth upgrading to the 35W heater at the same time if you are running on a 25W or less.
  17. Hi James, I'm building the flexy hand over the next few days, you mention NinjaFlex for the joints, are you using NinjaFlex or SemiFlex? I've been testing several flexible filaments over Xmas and I have some samples of the porolay filaments by Kai Parthy coming from GlobalFSD in the next week or so, which you soak in water to soften, so will be interesting to test.
  18. There have been several Kickstarter programs that have not come to pass and people lost their money, and at that price I will keep to using a stainless nozzle.
  19. Hi Phil, I had a quick look re the mounting screw holes, you can get most of the adjustment if I put slots in but not fully raised. I'll do you a set in the next few days, but I would say to build at 0.1mm layers. The build you have you said rattles, is the fit too loose? The bore of the boss should just slip on the M3 screw at the back I used a 3.0mm drill to clear out the hole, and the little latch/tap on the front should hold on the front screw. The only way I can think of just tweaking the latch is to remove the duct and using the heated bed set the temperature to 75 the TG for PLA, gently press it to the bed and then put a little bed into the latch, (watch yor fingers) when cool again it should sit firm.
  20. Hi Phil, thanks for the feed back, are you using the "V2" or the "V2R" the V2R can be easily removed. I'm supprised your getting a rattle from the mounts, there should be enough friction to hold them in place, one of the main ideas with this design was not to mount them with screws so that they swivelled out of the way, snd have an amount of vertical adjustment, although I would saw to build at 0.1mm step or better, takes longer but smoother results shouldn't rattle. But if You guys want some that don't swivel and mount using the same screws as the metal duct, I'll do a set for you, with mounting holes, Do you want easy removal? i.e. "C" mount about the rear screw, "O" mount so that you have to undo the screw to remove.? If you print off the ultimaker robot check out the ear cups and overhangs compared with one from a stock duct.
  21. Hi neotko, I found with my ones that they were effected by the bed temperature especially if I had it up around 100 degrees which was above the Tg for the PLA, I will try producing an ABS set and see how they get on, although with my removable set I can do a few layers with zero fans and no ducts fitted, pause the print, fit the ducts and fans then continue, just need to keep trailing
  22. Cheers James, I've downloaded the flexly hand files and will try to build one over the holidays. I have some flexly samples from global FSD so will have some fun on the flexy joints.
  23. Hi Eldridge I think it suffers a bit due to the thin wall thickness, mine were fine with PLA as the bed was only set to 50, but when I tried the Igus filament with the bed at 100 it was way above the glass transit action temperature. I've just put up a Version 2 that is removable (V2 R)so if I'm not using fans I swap out the ducts and put in a pair of Fan Stows, it takes less than 60 seconds to do, so if no fans are required I swap the ducts out. I will try some ABS over the Xmas break and see how I get on, be interested in your polycarbonate, what is the Tg for PC?
  24. I've designed a set of fan ducts that can swivel away for easy access to the nozzle and vertical adjustment, no assembly screws required, very good flow, can also be used for those with dual nozzle set ups. I'm just redoing the design with the ability to completely remove the ductand stow the fans for when not needed as I found when testing some of the higher temperature materials with a bed temp of 100 degrees and no fans, the ducts in PLA began to warp at the bottom. So now I can remove the ducts and replace with some simple fan stowage mounts when high temperature printing with no fans. The files will be available in a few hours, they take about 2.5 hrs to print, if you give them a try let me know any problems or surgestions etc, I'll see if I can improve them.
  25. Cheers Jameshs typo corrected:P I've only looked at the two and not the flexly option, I've not had good success with flexly filament, not to the standard I would be happy to offer. I hope to do some more flexly tests over the Xmas break, I am keeping my eye on ColorFabb and the rumor of a flexible or semi flexible coming out soon. One thing I wasn't sure of was are we also bearing the material cost in producing the parts?
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