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izzy

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Everything posted by izzy

  1. I've joined e-NABLE myself last month and printed off a sample of the raptor to check, assembly, and get assessed. Printing off at 0.2mm step leaves obvious marks, so I printed at 0.1mm but still no sure how much post finishing people are doing to clean up. Also I'm unable to find a suitable supply for the foam for inside comfort, I was nearly tempted to get a good flexly material and print a soft pad. Although I've used a couple of different colours, red and blue, I've cleaned it up and assembled it, but I was waiting to try and get some padding before getting it assessed. I suppose the other option if a cant get foam is to just print off and supply a kit.
  2. I take it you are using the UM2 origional feeder? An Allen key is measured across the flats, AF. If you can buy yourself a small screwdriver set with small hex pieces that are 4mmAF there will be a range of bits for straight, Cross Head and Hex bits that will cover all the bits on the UM2. Having said all that, as soon as you can check out iRoberts feeder on YouMagine. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two I would recommend printing this off and changing over to it, it's a big improvement, I have also made a few pieces to enhance this mod, search for izzy on YouMagine for some bits. Izzy
  3. Hi Guys, Version 2 of my Fan Ducts are now available, also giving vertical adjustment as well as swivelling out of the way, requiring no screws for assembly, any comments etc hope you enjoy. Izzy
  4. There was a little tool that somebody designed and posted on YouMagine, it wasn't to bad could be improved but worked
  5. My apologies to GR5, but I knew it had to be one of you guys, I must admit with some of the new nozzles having the size laser cut or etched on looks great, but my supply of old style will last me a while, although I may have to have a play with some of the very very small ones
  6. Hi guys, I can't remember who posted it and I was unable to find the post but I copied the photo to my iPad. It was probably Carl. But to who ever originally posted it you are credited and thanked but apologies for re posting the photo without your consent, cheers Izzy
  7. Rats, I'm going to delay my Xmas present to my self of a sample set of the new filament until the end of January in the hope of this flexible filament, any idea the possible colour range for it Arjan?
  8. Quality, quality, quality. Personal I wouldn't touch it, some of the quality of metal parts produced is not there, check the Olsson block I think they are now doing or are in the stages of doing a 1.75mm nozzle block, then you just need the correct Bowden tube, and a feeder unit(if running a dual head), print off some bits you may need and your away. Bear in mind if it's a cheap poorly produced nozzle you may get poor prints, and one reason for the Olsson block and nozzles is the improved flow of material and improved prints.
  9. YHi Tasopoulos, I've done the Left Hand duct, I need to get some time to do the right hand one. (I have a TMA due this week for my OU course) You will be able to adjust the height up and down by about +-3mm using either some thin spacers that just slot in on the rear screw or use a "nut" but depending on vibration etc the nut may drop so I am preferring the spacers
  10. The groove is on the front tap and locates on the front screw to hold it in position, it supplies the resistance and hold when you swivel it out of the way. I'm designing Version 2, which will allow for some vertical adjustment with some clip in C spacers to give 3mm (1/8") vertical adjustment.
  11. Interesting, I would print off the spacers this will remove the thread Tha drops down from the bottom plate, I'm going to check the drawing dimensionsas you ducts look to be mounted lower, not close to the upper plate. One reason may be that stainless steel threaded space looks to be screwed fully down onto the block, I think they recommend a gap of about 1-2mm
  12. Hi tasopoulos, the ducts are meant for use with the Olson block which enables the swapping of nozzles, It should fit at the level as show in the photo which is at the bottom edge of the nozzle hex.[/media-thumb] If you have the set with the notch I've not noticed them being effected by warp from the heat, I did try my PLA set with them printing a ABS sample and they seemed fine, but please keep me updated if you get any problems I can reduce the height a few mm if required. Cheers, Izzy
  13. Have you measured the actual 1st print layer, by the looks of the photograph it may only be 0.2mm although you have asked for 0.4mm, which would account for the nozzle pushing the other lines. I usually use the sheet of paper wich is about 0.1mm to level the bed or several together to get different levels. ( I have a sturing stick from costa coffee, and the very small post-it's, a block of 12 on one end with the top 2 cut so that I have 3 steps, 1.2, 1.1 and 1.0mm and the other end 2 giving 0.1 & 0.2mm works a treat to set up) but then I print a simple washer in 3 places but only print the 1st layer, I check their thickness and then adjust the screws, I have a 6 Point star on the knobs so for adjustment 1/12 of a turn on a M3x0.5mm screw = 0.04 approx. This allows me to fine adjust and check the level and nozzle gap. Also check the actual nozzle diameter, do an Atomic pull clean and you will hopefully have a small nib and a bit from the nozzle diameter, measure this to check, my 0.4 nozzle is actually 0.37
  14. Ok Guys, I've published the design for the ducts link below https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan-duct Several variations of the RH duct
  15. Didn't realise you could easily turn it off. We must be due for a Cura and firmware update soon, I like a few of the features available on the beta version although I prefer the layout menus of the normal Cura.
  16. Must admit although I like XT, I get mixed results at times on thin wall structures, same part in ColorFabb PLA is fine, so will be nice to try the nGen, I can see a set of samples being ordered as a Xmas present when they are available. I'm still doing my tests of various filaments and I'm getting a big box of cylinder flow test samples, and a great army of robots.
  17. The 35W heater is great, responds quickly to changes and compensates for the fans rapidly, rarely is it more than 2 degrees from the set temperature, so much better than the origional one, a no brainer as we say:P
  18. Hi Didier, I've not printed any thing really big, but I did try a simple sample tag only a few mm as shown below with the fan on 100% at 3rd layer with no problems. Hi Jan, I did think about keeping it flat but I also wondered about a large flat piece were it may cause a higher pressure area on the workpiece as the air was restricted. At the moment they only approach the bed as a large square ish nozzle, if you want to try a flatter bottomed one I can model it for you :-)
  19. Hi mendells, I'm running with Carl's 35W heater, and like you with the origional 25W heater I was getting the error when the temperature drop 10 below the set temperature. The testing I have done with these two sets, the nozzle dropped just 2 degrees with the notch set so the air is flowing mainly to the part with just a small amount to cool the new material. This has evened out the cooling of the Robot print with both ears, antenna and bringing looking better.
  20. Hi Guys, I've been messing with a design or two for replacement fan ducts, and wanted some feed back from a few of you here ( you know who ) before I put the STL files online. The Ducts have the same outlet area as the original metal one within a few square mm, but the flow is much better, they are designed for the level of the Olson block not the original. They are designed as two separate units, and can swivel out of the way to allow full access to the heater block, they are mounted on the two back print head assembly screws, and can swivel without interfering with the rear fan duct also fitted on my setup, and the fans are a slight push fit so no screws required. If you are running with Dual head just use a mirror version on the left hand duct. I measured a flow of about 5 m/s as you can see from the photos which was a lot higher than the 1.2 m/s I got when the I measured the original duct in a best measure position. There are two versions, one version just has duct openings on the bottom, the other version has a small notch on the side that allows a small flow to direct towards the print nozzle. Please let me know what you think and then i'll make the files available. cheers, Izzy [/media]
  21. Is the ptfe standing up to the higher temperatures ok? I've just tried some samples from GlobalFSD, including some from TwoBears, BioFila linen .Kai Parthy, bendlay & Laywoo D3 Flex, Reprapper PLA Brass. And a couple of ABSs The BoiFila Linen is nice, the Silk is only available in 1.75mm. Kai Parthy were nice too. The Reprapper Brass is brittle on thin walls so I'm not sure at the moment about getting some more as it was a bit messy sticking to the nozzle. The ABS, 1st time I've tried it was a pain, couldn't get it to stick to the platform, reeding other posts I need to make up some ABS slurry. I'm having fun typing this to see how far I can get and then watch the iPad on screen keys catch up
  22. Looks good, are the two nozzles set to the same gap height from the heated plate? It looks like you are only using one extruded to print each time, your not using a different material for dissolvable support or printing two colour Scheme?
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