izzy

I suspose Labern will use the 0.15 nozzle to make mini dril bits for his micro drill, and printing life size fleas!

I lose my sence of smell and taste nearly 3 years ago due to the Flu, I have a small amount back about 8% but very limited and I can't necessarily identify some of the scents. I don't know what any of the printing smells like so I have to rely on my wife to say if anything smells bad or is too much.

Cheers guys, I tried my reel in the oven for 2 hours at 70C garnished with a little parsley... When I looked before butting it in I noticed a fair bit of cracking so I'll let it settle and see if it's only a small area effected or it's a write off.

Thanks Danilius, I'll give that a try when the wife's not about. I'll give that a try at the weekend and post the result.

I have about 1/2 a reel of UM blue filament from when I purchased my machine last october (2014), I store my filaments, samples and loose 10m etc lengths in sealed plastic bags as supplied and then in a large "Really Usefully Box" . My UM blue is getting a bit brittle and keeps breaking as it comes off the reel. Does anybody have a simple solution to rejuvenate the filament? I quite like the UM blue so would still like to finish the reel and not waste it so any surgestions welcome, Cheers Izzy.

Lakelands the kitchen supplies company, have a small wire brush for cleaning, comes in a pack of two, I remove the foam at the top and it's a great little brass wire brush for the head.

I think you failed there Robert, but good game, good game

Hi Carl, I like the Olson block is being offered by Ultimaker now and I like the nozzle markings, is thathow UM are marking them or the new way the nozzles are coming from 3dsolex?

I've put a reply on how to handle loose fillament that may be a solution, it works for me.

I have different sample coils, small ones from ColorFabb and larger diameter from Faberdashery, not wanting to self plug but for a small sample length of 5m I use the filament hook that the filament just runs over, works fine with under 10m https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dovetailed-mounting-system/embed For larger amounts I designed this assembly, you can make as many arms as you want or need, the first time I unpack a new loose spool I carefully load it on coil by coil, 5 minutes well spent, when finished with I use some little clips with loom bands to keep the spool together, my spool holder arms pivot allowing for easy loading and unloading of loose filament. Hope these are of help, Izzy https://www.youmagine.com/designs/comprehensive-filament-holder/embed https://www.youmagine.com/designs/taming-loose-filament/embed

I likeColorFabb PLA/PHA, my settings are Nozzle temp = 210'C Bed temp = 50'C 0.1mm step 0.4 mm nozzle, 50mm/s If I increase to 0.2 step I increase the nozzle temp to 215'C Im running an Olson block with a 35W heater. When I tried the 0.3 nozzle I dropped to 205'C and 0.05mm step.

Hi John, on YouMagine I've put a modified bottom housing that has some cable outs, there is also a modified heatsink fan duct that allows for the use of fan ducts that swivel away from the print head. Hope that helps, Izzy https://www.youmagine.com/designs/print-head-bottom-modification

reading back through the posts, i'm infavour of the socket and your printed torque wrench as there are a lot of people that over tighten things, lets face it brass is soft and if your using a stainless nozzle and over tighten it you have ruined a hot end. Im not saying that we would all do that but lets face it there are engineers out there that are only alowed to use safety scissors, and if they were to over tighten the nozzle on my machine and break it... If your spending the best part of 2K+ euros on a 3D printer and think about scrimping a few cents on some tools then your going to pay in the long run, have one less foamy non fat capuchino and buy the socket.

A quick simple solution to the nozzle dropping down into the socket is to glue a nut or two into the bottom of the socket until you have a suitable height for the nozzle.

Hi drofnas, You will still use the atomic method to clean out the head between material changes. The benefits of the Olson block is that you can easily and cheaply replace nozzles, if you want to print with ColorFabb XT-CF20 it will wear away the nozzle, so at least with the Olson block you can have a dedicated nozzle or even a stainless nozzle for it. Also you can try some different size nozzles, 0.3 allows to to print a lot smaller items, the Nozzles from 3Dsolex are great there is an improvement in the material flow and print quality, and the jet nozzle seems better still. Getting the Olson block is one upgrade you will not regret it's great, they also do an uprated heating element which again works well keeping the temperature of the printing head more stable. If getting the Olson block get an uprated heater at the same time. Another beauty of having seperate nozzles is that some materials leave a residue which can effect other materials, so you can have a seperate nozzle for say t-glass and flexi filaments.

I've managed to download the step file and checked the dimension for mounting the hest sink fan, the dimension on the bottom plate is measured at 20.4mm although the produced part on the actual machine appears to be 20.0mm which does corrolate to the dimension for the mounting holes for the fans of this size.

hi Jan, I can't seem to download the step file, even right clicking doesn't give me an option to download the file, even though I'm signed in!

Does anybody have an accurate model of the bottom part of the print head? I don't fancy removing a small notch or two from my origional part so would rather print a modified replacement. The drawing on GitHub ia but poor, if nobody has an accurate drawing I'll strip mine apart to measure it. Also for the heat sink fan, the Sunon fan spec shows a mounting hole pitch of 20mm +- 0.3. On GitHub the drawing for the bottom plate is indicating that the pitch is 20.4mm. Unless the Drawing is from Ultimaker I'd stick with the 20mm as this is a std pitch for 25mmSQ fans

Hi David, interesting feeder, I take it you cannot adjust the friction tension of the hobbed gears for some softer or flexy materials? back to your question, what exactly seems to be stalling and causing the problem?

Hi James, Just a quick question re the Heat Sink Fan Duct, How have you routed your wires for the fans and heaters? I printed off your Part but then made a modified part as I have my Cooling fans on a non standard Fan Duct that swivels on the rear Print head screws to allow very easy access to the nozzle (Design Work in Progress before i make available), but when fitted there is no room for the wires to exit as standard fit, did you modify the bottom plastic section of the UM2 Print Head to allow the wires to exit?

Hi Jamezs, Could you put the duct on YouMagine, I am unable to download the STL file from GITHub, I also tried the SloidWorks files but got nowhere. i doubt if I would be able to use them as I only have SW2102, Cheers Izzy

Same as Sanderv, What filament and what settings were you using it looks great

What problems are you having bob?

I managed to get a half decent multimeter off of eBay or Amazon that also has a temperature probe (AideTek.com. VC99+), I noticed that some people were mentioning a variety of print temperatures so I used it to verify my set up that the UM2 display readout was accurate. It was also handy to check the temperature at various points on the print head unit. Running with the Olson block and with an uprated 35W heater my set up is running well.

I agree with the other replies, a great little paper. Love the Hobbed gear and will be looking more into this, colud you also give more details a picture etc on your heatsink fan duct. I use Roberts feeder which I have offset from the back plate by 3mm and added a knurled head to the adjuster screw so that I can easily adjust the tension (all the bits on my page on YouMagine