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Everything posted by rlrcstr

  1. I just noticed you are in NL... Not sure if it's worth shipping across the pond, but if you're interested, let me know. I posted it, with some detail, in this forum, as well. J
  2. UMO+ (assembled) with two fans (second fan not wired in, yet.) 9 spools of filament of various colors 9 spare PT100 Sensors 3 spare heater blocks (+ 2 used, 5 total) 2 spare hot end isolator tubes 9 spare nozzles (mostly .4mm but a couple of other sizes, too) Various spare screws, etc. Make me an offer... Thanks. J
  3. Where are you located? I have a UMO+ that I can sell. It's very lightly used and I have some spare bits and a bunch of filament. I just don't have the time to play with it, like I thought I would. It's got a dual fan mount on the head, but I haven't even had time to wire up the second fan. Let me know if you are interested. J
  4. I have yet to produce one single successful print of anything significant. I have been tweaking and playing and adjusting and reading and it's getting really frustrating... Once I seem to overcome one issue, another manifests. Even trying to print some little doodads from thingiverse and I can't make it happen. I get blobs and strings. Half the time the filament stops feeding. I have loosened and tightened. I have sacrificed small animals to gods I've never even heard of. I just can't figure it out. If there are any folks near Castle Rock, CO that might be willing to help me figure out what I am not doing properly I would really appreciate it... Thanks. J
  5. For the life of me, I can't get clean prints. I have been tweaking for a few months, now... Perhaps I'm looking for too much detail... I don't know. I was wondering if there was anyone with an Ultimaker Original + (Or any Ultimaker, I suppose or even just a lot of printing experience) near me, so perhaps we could collaborate in person... Anyone? Thanks. J
  6. I had tried bed temps of 50 to 80... Looks like a bed temp of 60-ish and a hotter nozzle temp and 50% fan is eliminating the warping, but then I get quite a bit of stringing. I've tried adjusting the retraction, but nothing seems to help that. It's quite frustrating. You see people posting these perfect looking prints, but I can't get close.
  7. I'm printing a bit that's about 15cm long, 1.2cm wide and anywhere from .5cm to 1cm tall... I've got the bed at 80c and I'm still getting some warping on the ends on the piece. Should I go hotter on the bed? (This is PLA.) Is there anything else I can do to help it? Will a brim or raft help? Thanks. J
  8. I have a PT100 sensor that, when tested by itself (Not connected to anything), I get a reading of about 108 ohms at room temperature. But when I connect it to the printer control board, I get a 100/0 MAXTEMP error. Why is the control board not getting the same reading as my multimeter? What should I look for to troubleshoot? Thanks. J
  9. When assembling the hot head for the UMO+, the instructions tell you to leave a small gap between the wood and the aluminum bracket that actually holds the extrusion head. I assume this is to minimize heat touching the wooden parts. Leaving the space seems to allow a small amount of wobble in the head. Is there a reason not to use a thin nylon washer and tighten the thumb screws to solidify the head? Thanks. J
  10. The fabric8 prices do seem a bit steep... Not seeing much oriented towards the UMO+ on your site, gr5... But most items I am finding easily enough via Amazon or Ebay... I was just wondering if there were some other "known" places good for getting bits in the US. Thanks.
  11. Thanks, everyone... I think I got it. Also, where is a good place to get replacement bits, in the US? Specifically, I need a new temp sensor for the hot end. Thanks.
  12. After printing a few items, I end up with this stuff on the hot end. What is it? Is there a way to avoid it? It gets hard and is not easy to remove. (The PLA was pink...) Thanks. J UMO+ Newbie
  13. Is there a reason that they ship the UMO+ with the 2.85 filament? Does that size work better? Do you need to modify the hardware to use the 1.75? (I can find that locally, the 2.85, not so much...) And is there anything specific you have to do to change the filament? Do you have to clean the head, between filaments, in any way, or something like that? (Or just print something small to get the old stuff out?) Thanks.
  14. Got it... And I got the proper firmware installed and the printer has come to life... I had to use Cure 15.04. The new version wouldn't talk to the printer. But 15.04 loaded the proper firmware without an issue. There were no instructions on how to load the filament... I just kinda shoved it up through the tube and it seems to be working. Now I just have to find a fun little model to print for my first attempt... Thanks for your help. (Faster, and more accurate than the ticket system...)
  15. that explains everything I think! You have the wrong firmware. You have UM2 firmware but you need UMO firmware. Does that happen, often? They ship an UMO+ with UM2 firmware? Cura doesn't seem to be able to talk to the printer. The error log complains that it doesn't have permission to open the port. And I can't find an option in Pronterface to do it... Maybe the command line... I will look into it. Thanks.
  16. So... Some progress... I couldn't get Cura to talk to anything, nor Pronterface. They just didn't see the printer. In device manager, it was listed as an "Other Device"... I downloaded and installed the Arduino toolkit which included a driver for the Mega2560. Now it shows in Device Manager as a COM port. Cura is still useless, but Pronterface can see it and talk to it. I can move the head a bit, but the printer doesn't home properly. Only the X axis seems to find its home. Y and Z try to move through the walls/floor. Cura still doesn't talk to the printer. In the log it complains that it doesn't have permission to open the COM port. I was hoping that a firmware update might kick the printer into shape. Is there another way to update the firmware, besides Cura? I have a ticket open. Waiting for them to respond.
  17. Just out of curiosity, how long does it, typically, take for someone to respond to a support ticket? (It's a medium level ticket.) Thanks. J
  18. I have the white board. I have one green LED, D7, I believe, lit up. When I connect via USB, device manager shows Ultimaker 2.0 under "Other Devices". (I have an Original+, not a 2, but I'm not sure if that's what the 2.0 refers to in that scenario.) But it claims that the drivers are not installed. I do hear a click when I press the button on the controller. And if I turn the dial and press again, the bed tries to lower itself through the bottom of the machine. I am running Windows 7. I will look into Pronter(o)face/printrun, but I have no idea what it is or how to use it. I will also open a ticket with support. Thanks for the responses, If there is anything else you can think of, please let me know. I want to play!
  19. I tested continuity for all pins on both cables and they are good. I connected the printer to a PC via USB to see if I could update the firmware with Cura, but Cura never makes any progress. Just sits there. Not sure how to determine if it even sees the printer.
  20. Just finishing my build and I got to a step where it says to turn on the machine and use the Auto Home function on the controller. My controller lights up a brilliant blue, but displays no text. There are a couple of darker bands across the display. I have tried swapping the ribbon cable ends. I tried fiddling with the contrast adjust. Nothing has helped. What else can I do to troubleshoot? I'm so close.... Thanks. J
  21. Never mind... Found it. Doesn't look anything like the picture, but it fits perfectly and must be the bit I was looking for.
  22. Both answers are correct, but you (gr5) gave a more complete answer so I suppose that's the "best" answer.
  23. The step of the build I am on calls for a Strain Relief Clip (1243)... I can't really tell what it looks like from the assembly manual. And I don't see anything in the kit that looks, to me, to be a strain relief clip. Can someone point me to a picture or a decent description of what this bit looks like? Thanks. J
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