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superace

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  1. How about using a small airbrush set and spraying acetone? Do you think it could work? Of course I guess it has to be clean acetone and not something from your "dipping-jars"
  2. Hi This is not really for UM printers but there are plenty of brain power connected to this forum that may know the answer Have anyone also noticed that all SD cards are not equal? I have bought several SD cards in different batches from different suppliers and different brands. Sometimes these work brilliant in the printer I have but some times they can not be accessed by the printer. All works well when used with a PC but some just do not like being in a printer. Does anyone have any ideas why? Has anyone seen similar problems using SD cards in UM printers? I have seen this for some ot
  3. Hi, I am not using an UM printer but I do print alot of nylon. In my opinion Nylon is among the most difficult materials when it comes to printing. It is extremely sensitive to humidity, if there is any humidity in the room it will be sucked into the nylon. I have noticed a popping sound when printing humid nylon as well as seeing puffs of white water vapour from the nozzle. This make the print bumpy at the surface. I also think thicker layers are easier to print compared to .1 or .2 layers, most of my parts are 0.4mm layers.
  4. Problems may also exsist in the material. Not all HIPS is created equal there is, as I understand, no real standard and I when I have tested material from different suppliers the results are different. Layer adhesion is mostly temperature dependent. For really big prints in HIPS I use Kapton tape on a heated bed. Before printing I use a sand paper to make the Kapton surface less shiny. Then clean it with Acetone. Before I started doing this my prints warped but now I am really happy with the results.
  5. First of all I would just say I do not use a UM printer but I have printed lots of HIPS in the machines I have. I find HIPS gives an amazing print quality, at least with the brand I am using. It is a bit less prone to warping than ABS but still warps if it gets the chance so it is not a golden fix for this problem. It is building up static electrisity very easily and because of this attracts any eventual dust in the work area. I feed the filament true a sponge with a tiny hole before it enters the head. This removes the dust and I do not get jams anymore. My personal opinion is that HIPS is l
  6. HI all, I live in Beijing so I only use Chinese made plastic. I have noticed a kind of funny fact: You don't always get the quality you pay for, specially with ABS. Or maybe more correct would be "Some ABS maybe works great but only in a limited number of printers". So cheap ABS can many times be much better than a much more expensive roll. I pay between 10 and 15 USD per kg on plastic rolls depending where I buy from. 1.75 or other diameters are more or less the same price. So my advice is look on Alibaba or Taobao if you need a big amount of plastic. Alibaba is in English and Taobao can be
  7. Actually ESD plastic can have lots of really good usages. For example fixtures for testing PCB without any risk of ESD damage. Pogo-pins (Test pins) can be inserted directly into the fixture as long as the Ohms are not too low. Just remember if you do any RF testing ESD plastic will behave in various ways depending on thickness and conductivity.
  8. Hi, Me too located just outside the north 5th ringroad. Happy Chinese new year! Maybe you should print a sheep to celebrate the spring festival.
  9. Hi Me again I activated the Tweak at Z 4.0 plugin by pressing the "V" arrow under. So far so good. BUT!! How do I unselect this? Now when I open Cura again I still have the plugin loaded and for this next model I do not want to use it. So in short..... How do I "delete" or un-activate activated plugins? /me
  10. Hi Daid-guru Relationship problems.... understood. No problem! Does this also have something to do with the super thin first skin layer? Or is that a known different issue? I really can not get the first layer of my models to print nicely when I use raft. They always come out with weak bonding regardless of my settings. This thin issue also happens in the first layer over support so it is not really only raft related. /me
  11. Hi Again I have some things I do not really understand. When I slice the same model with or without raft I get the same number of layers with the "Layer view mode" in Cura. How is that possible? If I use raft the first layer that I can see my model on is layer 5 with 38 as the last layer. If I use NO raft I can see my model is starting on layer 1 but still has 38 layers. The only difference in my setting is Raft, No raft. I guess there is a reason for this but I can not really see it. A second thing is also strange, maybe some of you have noticed that the first layer becomes very thin when
  12. Hi, Thank you all for the answers. Almost all the printing I do is for functional parts using ABS. So normally I slice things in Cura in 5 different ways. Different infill %, shell thickness and so on. Load all variants to a SD card and hands it away. Then someone prints out the models and test how strong they are, good looking and so on..... After the test they tell me wich one they like and I can copy the g-code file used for the most successful print from my hdd to a public area where it is stored and can be used later when it is time to print more of this part. The not successful variant
  13. Hi, Is this a feature or a "feature aka bug" or am I just plain dumb? 1: I load "Test.stl" to Cura 2: Edit the settings so I get it sliced as I like it. 3: Press the "Save Toolpath" Icon in the window: Now I can name the file "NN.gcode", so far so good. 4: I plug in an USB card reader to my pc, the "Save toolpath" icon changes to SD Card. This is also good. AND here comes the problem: When I press "Save Toolpath to SD card" the file is saved to my SD card. With the original "Test.stl" name and without any way for me to change name or path. I would have thought the filename should have
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