Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Neotko, did you ever develop Neosanding 2.0 with splitting the perimeters and top fill processes and verifying that it works great as expected.
  2. A few questions about ironing to make sure I'm not harming my nozzle: 1. If the Ironing feature in Cura is used to iron a large surface for a long period of time while the nozzle is held at printing temps, for example 1/2 hour or longer at 220C, is there a risk that the PLA will start to crystallize in the nozzle and affect its future performance? 2. Is the default ironing extrusion multiplier of 10% meant to help prevent PLA from crystallizing in the nozzle or to help smooth out the surface or both? 3. Would it be better to retract the filament out of the h
  3. It' been a while since I worked on a solution for my original post (2015?). The last solution I remember trying is to make sure the old nozzle is wiped good on a purge pillar that is generated by the slicer and printed using the two nozzles. I never finished fully testing this solution (see my current state below). I did not like having to deal with setting the x y offsets with test prints and leveling the two nozzles against each other in the z whenever I removed / swapped extruders / hot ends. There are now automated systems to handle this, but in 2015 my printer did not have
  4. Nice work! What software did you use to design the font? Can you post the font somewhere for download?
  5. Hello neotko, I get gaps in my little letters using 25% Outline Overlap. What % do you use to get rid of the gaps?
  6. Cura can eliminate seams by implementing the following process:: At the beginning of an outer wall the nozzle could start slightly in the interior of the print as it moves to position itself to print the outer wall, then when the nozzle completes the outer wall it could move inwards (at an angle) slightly towards the interior of the print all of which would drastically reduce the very noticeable seams on the outer walls. Just implementing the starting or ending paths as mentioned above will make a huge difference. Here's an article that describes this in more detail at
  7. Your 2nd step "2nd Sanding" should have the same start, stop values and layer height as the last layer that was printed. For example if you're printing 10 layers at 0.10 layer height then your last (printed layer) start value = 0.9, stop value = 1.0 and layer height is 0.1 mm. Thus, your first sanding layer would have a start value of 0.9 and a stop value of 1.0 with a 0.1 mm layer height. This will allow the hot end to neosand off any jutting imperfections.
  8. My understanding is that sanding s/b done at the same height as the just completed layer, so if 1st real print stops at 1.55, then first sanding should stop at 1.55 also. The reason I mention this is because for all of S3D's greatness, sometimes if things don't line up just right with multiple processes (like your example of a 0.05 mm gap between layers of step 1 (print) and step 2 (sand)), then S3D can get a little quirky on rare occasion. It might have nothing to do w/ your situation, but if all else fails it might be worth a shot.
  9. Neosanding is nice when a matte finish is desired. When printing with PLA Is there a technique for making a shiny finish either with the toolhead or a secondary operation like wiping with wd40 or something else that will give a lasting shiny finish in neosanded areas?
  10. neotko, Kudos to you for developing your neosanding techniques and processes for improving 3d print surfaces! It's not often a game changer is invented!!! You mention you print a fair amount of small text. Have you tried printing the text directly against the print surface with much success? I've been practicing this with mixed results. Sometimes I pull off a beautiful clean print with shiny text and sometimes I get stringing or a small (deposited) blob in the space between the letters. It seems these imperfections occur when traveling from one letter to the next.
  11. Cool, thanks for the info; however I'm a little confused as to why other slicers might perform worse with dual extrusion? 1. Can I use another slicer and still lift the unused head out of the way? 2. If I use the correct settings for prime, retract, travel speed etc in the other slicers can I expect good results assuming the other slicers are good slicers? 3. Can I just load the gcode from another slicer, including any required initial start gcode, into the Ultimaker 3 and hit print?
  12. I'm using a skirt around the part which is 120x110 mm so the exruder is fully primed when it starts printing and the under extrusion happens when filling in other letters as well, but not all of them. In fact some O's get completely filled in and others have under extrusion. This is what is such a mystery to me and the reason why it seems Cura might be the reason for the under extrusion. Under extrusion does not happen with KISSlicer and Simplify3D when filling in the letters.
  13. Is it possible to use a slicer other than Cura in the Ultimaker 3? I would like to buy an Ultimaker 3; however sometimes I get a better printed part with a different slicer, for example KISSlicer or Simplify3D, so I would like to be able to use those slicers as well. For example, here is a post I made showing Cura is under extruding in small areas of some text I'm printing: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/50035-cura-under-extruding?page=last KISSlicer and Simplify3D print the letters perfectly so if I buy an Ultimaker 3 I will not be able to print this part if I'm locked into using Cura
  • Create New...