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cloakfiend

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cloakfiend last won the day on January 24

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About cloakfiend

  • Rank
    Lord of Acetone
  • Birthday 01/01/1969

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
    GB
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 with 35w heater PLA and acetone

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  1. That all sounds great but cura should always ease in massive differences in print time per layer as i print many things most hollow some not. But i tend to design on the fly. So basically i always get the below lines near the top of the curved surface its just a pity because this could be fixed with easing the skin in thats all. Instead i have a ton more zen sanding to do. Lol Various settings to no real removal of the visible line.
  2. Reimporting the same model sounds long. And then doing all that box stuff. That top skin needs to be programmed to ease in oversay 5 or 6 layers. Maybe more. Its the only thing wrong with cura at the moment. It means you will never be able to print a perfect hugh res semi sphere without using filler. Which is exactly what i needed to. Make a sphere fron two semis. 0.06 has many benefits to lower reses and i think its neglected in cura. Everyone seems to love 0.1? 0.06 was the sole reason i bought one back in the day. I alread have 3 wall. I dont want mess around with 4 or 5 to fix an issue that shoukdnt be there.
  3. Hi @eldrick thanks for the info! could you elaborate on the 'Adaptive layers' setting how it works and what i'd need to set to make the top skin ease in instead of simply arriving on one layer. It would make my cute kitten models much easier to post process!! Thanks.
  4. The topskin produces much cleaner tops with it than without it, so having the topspin is needed, but its a shame it doesn't ease in from one layer to the next as this would fix the visible line on the surface. Its not a matter of layer height, thats entirely unrelated. its a matter of layer time taken from one layer to the next.
  5. This really should be looked at. It means there is always a visible line the moment the top skin kicks in becausecit doesnt ease in. Its just not there one minute and blam! Massive the next. Is there a way to graduate it in size manually over a few layers in cura?
  6. Hi yes im giving that a go now, but all it appears to do is move the sudden skin higher up the slant. I was after a slow incremental increase option? If there is one. Its the sudden increase in time that causes the layer line. The top skin is just not there one minute and massive the next layer. It needs to be graduated in for better overall layer quality! Ill see how this one goes....no luck I always get this weird line from the topskin regardless and its only because of the sudden different in time from one layer to the next. If it was gradual the line simply wouldnt be there. ...and I pretty much only print 0.06. Um2 and s5. This is my only issue!
  7. Thanks for the tip anyway. At least i know what the setting is called. It should really be graduated into the size it becomes. Hopefully cura will fix this? Eventually. Lol. Its even there after light sanding.
  8. Hi yes im giving that a go now, but all it appears to do is move the sudden skin higher up the slant. I was after a slow incremental increase option? If there is one. Its the sudden increase in time that causes the layer line. The top skin is just not there one minute and massive the next layer. It needs to be graduated in for better overall layer quality! Ill see how this one goes....
  9. Hi folks, Not sure if anyone has noticed, that when I print pretty much anything hollow that has a spherical or curved top, the abrupt internal layer arrival towards the top drastically increasing time for the next layers ending in ruining the perfect surface. Its such a pity, can anything be done about a gradual wall building up slowly to prevent the sudden additional cooling time. I've noticed this for a while now, it affects me more as I tend to print in 0.06 so those printing in .01 layers warp less.
  10. thanks @kris2020. Happy to help! Lots more to come...
  11. Thats too complicated for me. Id rather just have an option to not print the bottom layer touching the build plate or else ill just leave it. Escpecially as im short on time and am using both new firmware and software for the first time. Ive no time fiddle and mess about unfortunately. I will have to try that stuff once i have time to fail.
  12. Cheers! yes that what i thought. I got an extra day tonprint now so i can relax a bit! Thanks @ahoeben
  13. Yes just the bottom thickness! Im assuming that wont change the bottom layers as with the old cura and jusy the 1 bottom layer? Not the bottom layers, as i see a setting fot that too? I hope so. Im going to print the base at .2mm as it has no details and just filler up the holes. Or 0.1mm. No point in 0.06 for that part which I need to priny seperately anyway! Thanks for the help @P3D and @geert_2. ....and im too lazy to hollow out lol. I have no time for that. Because i may print in different sizes and id need to constantly keep changing the thickness that way! Thanks again. Hope it works!
  14. Ill just leave it then i have no time to experiment with settings and dont want any nasty surprises! Lol i've have my share of those lately! ...and spliting the model in three means three base layers!! Exactly what im trying to avoid in the first place!
  15. Lol i meant the base layer of the trophy lol. Im already printing it in two halves. Its too tall as it is and im printing the base on my um2 at the same time. I guess just looking at it againt the top half wont be so bad but the very bottom is big See pic.
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