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cloakfiend

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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. What material is that just out of interest? Looks a bit like CF Dutch Orange?
  2. I hear you about the motor skills, It taken me many years just to gain the ones I have at the moment. Given time brains luckily tend to remap themselves so fingers crossed for you!! Will be posting some pics for your entertainment soon!!!
  3. Hope the surgery went well @kmanstudios! and wishing you a speedy recovery!! I need some of your inspiration. I've been mainly working on speed optimized support structure generation for my models. But I've also done tons of scanning and finally used my 3D pen for urgent work!!! To those without 3d pens, If you have big holes or massive welds to do, there is no better tool! I printed replacement arms for my model because elements on the others were wrong, so rather than printing the entire thing again, I simply reprinted the arm and helmet and then welded them together using the same colour filament in a few mins, then dremelled it down and a touch of filler and job done. only using filler this would have taken way too long and no glue was used at all.
  4. I agree, as some people may think they need to subscribe to something and just not bother clicking. The word 'Join' may frighten them away. I didn't click on it because I thought well I don't want to join because I am already a member? but maybe thats just me! lol.
  5. Made this model to go into space! Yay! Makes a change from my usual black background! The black of space!!!
  6. Phone cams tend to be better for photogrametry as there tends to be more in focus. Its the moving subject thats the main issue. Thats why masking is key plus some basic pointcloud cleanup. Makes a world of difference. Dont forget that even breathing will ruin a scan to some extent hence using masks to separate. Try to do it on a plain backgrounc if your gonna be masking... just goes a lot faster.
  7. It was tricky before but now its easy and free and even offline. I used zephyr lite. It has a limit of only 50 photos but seeing as that is plenty for a bust its fine. There is also an included mask maker, so you highlight the subject and separate it from the background. Its super quick and easy, even though it still takes a bit of time doing it 50 times, but its so worth it. I wish Autodesk had a free small photo limit. But the masking makes a massive difference. Ive used tons of these proggies and this one has it all. But sorry PC only.
  8. Thanks! Im going paint a few now. I scanned half my museum! Lolz. Filament is a bit poor. Too old ?? Who knows.
  9. Just thought I'd try to print some glasses on a model rather than adding ,(my photogrammetry scanned cousin). Glasses were scanned separately on a table by the way. Printing worked great but made the eyes harder to clean up being behind the glasses. Default support settings. Sprayed white. I'm starting to experiment with paint now... Pooh brown colorfabb at 0.06 Hopefully ill have a model in space by Monday, fingers crossed.
  10. That is a very good scan indeed!! Im so used to touching up scans now its usually faster to just model the darn things from scratch, but that always add 'artistic' elements. I only scan using photogrametry. Yours looks much higher res. Out of curiosity how much is that scanner? Im assuming its very expensive? I always try and justify buying a 3d scanner... yet to find a real case which photogrametry cant answer. If I couldnt model a laser scanner would be my only option but until now exact scae hasnt been required. The benefits of Photogrametry is that its essentially free assuming you have a camera, or camera phione. and crappy cameras with 9-16Mp sensors produce better scans imo. But again a great scan and a great print!!
  11. I was just looking today and I also noticed this! I couldnt find it at first. I think it could be more visible, but I also understand you wanting to keep your own advice on the headings as the main point of reference!
  12. Id try to weld them together. The question is if there is a 3d pen that would work with that filament. Ive had great luck in bonding pla with a 3d pen. Not sure if it will be as good for pp though? I preffer welding to gluing as its less visible after a quick sand.
  13. Just used my oldskool um2 after a looong time away due to having newer printers. It prints as good as the day I bought it!! Still one of best or the best in my opinion. Havent got a um2+ but cant imagine it being any better for my purposes.
  14. Well turns out that my girfriend bought me a 3d pen for my birthday. Still havent got round to using it but welding stuff together will most likely be the main use! Some random brand one, but will give it my best! They all seem kinda random brand names. Im sure may violate many patents.
  15. Yeah! External fans blowing into the printer is not good. I learnt this during my first month. I sat the printer in a server rack which turned out to be a bad idea. Kept getting blocked nozzles and all sorts of issues i didnt get before. A uniform enviroment is ideal.
  16. Hi still using cura 3.9 but was playing around with dual colours again but couldn't figure out how to import my objects into cura from max, because they always import facing opposite directions? Any ideas?
  17. taking a break from movies and trying some cuteness. but it seems as either my z screw is dirty or my printer is unable to close a semi sphere smoothly, hence the random line. its 1.2 wall so it should be plenty, its on both models, ill try a few tests in the meantime! miaow, pusheen kitty inspired.
  18. Thanks for the write-up! I'll try the 9V battery first. Ill ask someone to explain to me the basics when i get the stuff, as I know ill just get it wrong, and it will save time at the beginning. Once I've done a few hopefuly I should get the hang of things! Off to ebay/amazon/internet now! one is ok but seeing as ill try for some eyes a lil diagram for two would be nice! 😉 I assume a series circuit or something? not sure how it will affect the resistor requirements? will i need more or is the current good for two if its good for one?
  19. I did notice that because of the hat on the model, the layer lines where much better than normal on the freddie models face due to it being shielded with support material, which indicates a wall around the object might beneficial in surface quality. both models were printed with identical settings one day apart.
  20. Nice, I like it! I ewant to work with leds more... I did a bit back in the day but my friend did all the electronics. I want to do glowing eyes and such on a few of my models. Not sure really where to start, I want to keep it simple and minimal.
  21. Only the hat was sanded and inside the mouth and under the chin. freddies face was not sanded at all, its just too detailed. At 30mm/s on the s5 it printed pretty well. the hat was sanded because i ran out of filament and created layer lines when fiddling around with the spool. traffic red colourfabb is a classic of mine. but i still think tansparent red is best for smoothing. the light brown is ok but not as good. My Doctor and Herbert West hill from Re-animator will be next, I'll film doing that one, seeing as my last video didn't show me applying the second acetone coating, and the lighting was poor!. I would wait until it starts going white after a few minutes, then id brush it and then re-apply, and brush it again. brushing it in its soft state is what creates the shiny look.
  22. Just wanted to say that the majority of the whiteness caused by acetone does come off with a subsequent acetone coating. So apply the acetone then wait a few minutes for it to evaporate off, then when its still in its soft stage get a brush and apply another coating. The acetone cleaning up layer diesnt need to be heavy at all. Jusy tested it on some test sculpts today and it worked even on really old colourfabb filament which is the light brown one.
  23. i tried to wipe off the residue but it didn't seem to work for me. (unhappy face) however I did notice that re-acetoning them about 5 minutes after trying to clean them via rushing and wiping with my fingers that they were a lot less white! my issue is that if i have sanded/scored parts of the model to get it a bit smoother that part goes white much easier than the others. I made a little video, gonna do dr hill next and make another follow up vid!
  24. Thanks, The prints are really old ones but a testament to the test of time with my plating proving that they last a long time. These ones were old UM2 prints for those curious and then copper plated.
  25. Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
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