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cloakfiend

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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. Anytime I had layer shifting I cleaned and added lube to the rods and it sorted it. You may also want to make sure there is no slack in the belts either. But cleaning has worked for me for years. Luckily I've never had to do any other kind of maintenance. But i'd start at the easiest option. Its usually larger stuff this occurs on most but I guess it can effect anything.
  2. I could bring my time down using false nozzle sizes. Say 0.6 instead of 0.4 but top surfaces would beed a little help. If its large its kind of hard to avoid it taking long mind you.
  3. Mind you I don't print that many items, so a 24Hrs print is not an issue for me, and I print hollow, so to have a real nice print that needs very little clean up after 24hrs, means its worth the wait. also I rarely ever get failed prints. If ever. So no time wasted there either!
  4. I tend to print everything with 0.06 layer height. It greatly improves quality. Outside 30mm inside 70mm per second.
  5. Thanks for the kind words!!. Im putting all my stuff up there. Just lookup cloakfiend on patreon! There is only one. Not sure i can post links here! Let me know if you still cant find it!
  6. This model is one of my own. But its in my patreon if you really wanted it! I've cleaned it up a bit since these were taken.
  7. And today i applied a chrome paintjob, im a bit tired of plating for now. Its a big bigger than my jar so will be a pain. Just chromed it up instead. Mirror finished are very unforgiving and i rushed it a bit and touched it too often whe is was wet needing to keep respraying it. I decided to leave it after the third coat and just accept it as it was.
  8. Im Just putting it together now, but here is a still from the timelapse for you!
  9. The back. I have an amazing burring technique to rid the support material really really quickly, and can clean up the wholw back in under 5 mins, im maimg a video to show how!
  10. Its printed like you see it. Flat, because of the teeth. I didnt want any support on the teeth at all because there is no room to remove them. Just auto support which i find to be ok on stuff that lies flat.
  11. Here is my Take on Takeshi 6ix9ine's diamond 'Finding Nemo' style shark medallion, such a cool design, had to make one! lol Props to the jeweller Jimmy Phan. Just gotta plate this beast now, need more plating solution or a bespoke plating tank! but might just spray it for a change! 😛 Designed so none of the teeth needed internal supports as it would be impossible to get them out after! Very happy with the result and the Acetone smoothing as well! This one did need infill though due to the open mouth cavity! Haven't used infill in aaaages for art. But it really does help aceto
  12. Hi, Im setting up my patreon account this week, so hold tight for that and I'll keep you posted! Apologies for not getting back sooner! I've been meaning to do it for 4 years now! M
  13. Ill try the union thing out then also is there a remove layer touching buildplate option or turn first layer into infill option as i really would like that for large models that i dont want to waste hours on building the base. And thanks again for the useful information! Ill be back if it doesnt work! Lol.
  14. Ah thanks for the info. I just tend to knock out tests quickly and cant be bothered to merge or create booleans as text in a box shouldnt be too challenging to print from historical attempts. I have an issue with stuff that alters way it did to previous versions unless its better and this definitely isnt. So rather than waste time trying to solve a problem in didnt have in any previous version ill practice what i preach and just use the older version which i have no issue with other than interface problems.
  15. Yep its simply two extruded objects one inside the other. It appears (its fact) that cura 3.4 has no issues which is why i believe cura 4.4 is the problem. I already prited it from 3.4 wont 'upgrade' until this issue is sorted for obvious reasons, as i often use intersecting geometry.
  16. Just curious but does the new cura still have this issue? I'm using 4.4.1 but have now reverted back to 3.4.9.9 for obvious reasons. Top 4.4.1, bottom is 3.4.9.9 I guess ill uninstall 4.4 1 either way as I can't trust it anymore.
  17. Sorry i think this is in the wrong section!! how can i delete this post? and move it into coffee corner perhaps? Hi, I got a Kaiser rostrum for photographing my prints, but i have no idea how to connect it to my wall, can i just rewire it to a regular socket? i have no idea what the colours are, line cables? its a old german plug. pics attached, i know the earth obvioulsy, but grey black and brown? no clue, im thinking greay is the actuator, and brown is live, and black i neutral but thats a blind guess. i rad there are line live neutral cables, what is a line 1 2 or 3 i have z
  18. Its the only print im going to use everyday until a renovation! A true essential print! Only others i can think of would be taps, keys, knobs (lol) handles or light switches. Im sure there are many other personal ones but this truly made me appreciate having an ultimaker! Quicker than Amazon!
  19. Well not used ultimakers tough pla for a while. But i like it! It has a very smooth top surface. My toilet handle broke the internal ceramic holder after many years and because all hardware shops are closed....had no choice works like a charm! Made it a bit thicker just in case and forgot to taper it. But as i printed it solid i just sawed the end off. Job done! No acetone or sanding here. Solid as a rock!
  20. Close ups.... you know I love my close ups! Dr Hill from Re-Animator is the only filled model here hence not splitting further. Im pretty sure in fill would help as well. I talked with a few folk and some use modge podge as i use plaster of paris. Might be better but definitely more expensive!!! These splits can easily be filled with paint or putty. However I wouldn't use putty on detailed parts as its a nightmare to clean up.
  21. Im gonna paint these, im pretty sure they werent split that bad? But the hollow ones are. If you leave your acetoned model hollow and its not translucent colourfabb and exposed to heat frequently or in direct sunlight, then it will most likely split. If its filled or printed with transparent colorfabb it wont, or is way less likely.
  22. Adding heat to an acetoned model does nothing but heat it up making it flexible by superheating the trapped air and by simply being acetoned. The acetone alters the state of pla to something else and hardens later irrespective of heat. Someone mentioned dishwasher liquid to stop the reaction but seeing as the acetone has already penetrated deep into the acetone i think theres little chance of that as dishwasher liquid does not penetrate pla. I must stress to all those new to this thread that this was a completely failed model with multiple reprinted areas and im simply continuing with it
  23. I tried sanding a few areas on the face after attempting to fill a few cracks with putty. Turns out this primer doesnt sand well and just peels horribly when combined with putty and i was lazy and tried too soon. Just ended up using acetone to 'wash' everything off. Im slowly getting tired of this.. lol. I now regret not just printing another! Eitherway I've learnt a lot on the way! I guess it pays in the long run to get everything perfect before painting. I just got impatient as usual. Lol.
  24. Here we go again lol. This is my last time fixing it. Whatever it is after it will remain. I should have stuck to tamiya rattle can primer. It dries rock solid and sand well. This valejo mecha white primer is a tad rubbery when dry and hence sands awfully. I slapped on one more coat of tamiya putty to fill the sanded holes. Ill leave it overnight to set hard and sand paint and move on to the next model. I really enyoyed sculpting this one. I may print the full version another time as I did the complete body.
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