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cloakfiend

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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. Well the fabric has taken a different path what i had planned failed due to other colours and the fabric being too thick. but in the meantime the S5 and dry ice, lol. why not, i just had some left over from a film shoot.
  2. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Unfortunately some colourfabb colours just arent aticking to the salt as others. Dutch orange is king here. Red and blue not quite as good and UM silver is also very good.
  3. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    My first experiment with this that i saw on youtube somewhere. My friend asked me to give it a go and this is just some cloned beveled triangles arranged with enough room for flex of the thickness of the mosaic. Annoying to remove but not too bad. Easy to print. Worked first time.
  4. Fair enough ill admit that makes sense. Im just doing my first proper two colour print and when i put in the other AA I came across that issue as i just clicked print and realised i had not primed the nozzle. So in my opinion the procedure should go... 1 remove nozzle....then the printer either heats up the current nozzle to wind back the filament or you just whip out the nozzle and it knows you did this so it doesnt bother winding it back. (Yoy could even have the option to skip the filament removal!) 2 click ok when the new nozzle is in. 3 then either click to prime or skip for manual prime Thats what i would do, i wouldnt automatically prime the nozzle with new filament however as i often change my mind and using the lever is far quicker. You think you want everything automated but it gets boring and frustrating real fast. In my honest opinion i just whip the old nozzle out and slap in a new one. I dont even think it needs a removal procedure! But seeing as there is one then an automatic filament load after the change is a perfectly reasnoble thing to do. I guess if you dont want to then you simply dont load on any filament! Still i would like a print with last used bed leveling option.
  5. Yes sure i understand, but its just two clicks. If you change your nozzle (i.e.) dont bother doing it in the menu, then you just select the material and select move. But fair enough. You want it to automatically feed some material through with a 'purge old material' selection or something in the menu. Makes sense. I want a print using previous auto leveling results as well to kick of jobs quick. But i guess ill make a new thread for that. Lol
  6. Just select the cordon the menu and then move material.. until its cleared? Im not sure what the issue it. when you select move material, it automatically heats up the nozzle to the selected PLA or whatever. if it doesn't the just select change material and do it unless I'm wrong. I am running old firmware mid you, but i doubt they would have changed that?
  7. Hopefully youll see tomorrow!!! Its a variant on my fabric printing. Fingers crossed!!
  8. Nice ball!!! And nice peactical skills! Looks neat and tidy!!! Im also trying something fun out myself, hope it wirks as well as this!
  9. cloakfiend

    Tip: Bed adhesion

    For me ive used prit stick power for the past 4 years with applications every few months. But recently tried the salt method to great success. And i have to agree with sander on this one. Just looking at the first layer, it doesnt look like its squished enough, and looks like your also getting underextrusion. But sometimes skipped lines can just be the initial moments the temps are settling after the initial higher lower routine. Squashed is better than not squashed. Thats about it. Once you get it right youll be fine.
  10. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Well i wasnt sure if i had applied the salt correctly, as i saw no faint mist or anything just water all over the plate so i just heated it up wiped on a few more gentle strokes and it appears to have worked perfectly! So thanks @geert_2 for that! Below is another test where i printed a few sectios.one way a few the other and a few more alternating. The trouble is that it just ends up looking like an untidy carpet or something? Anyway pics... sorry for the crappy photos my phone cam is dying. The bottom sparkles in the light though!
  11. cloakfiend

    Cura doing something crazy

    are you sure its not bad geometry?
  12. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    The spikey one. Was a bit rough so it looks a bit battered on the edges!
  13. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    i have to say that getting my latest one off the plate resulted in some damage to the fabric, so im gonna have to try the salt method with my next one. the material was not as strong as i thought!
  14. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Yes i think thas the name! Tulle Its lots of fun and so many posibilities, i will try dual colour next and then weirder shapes. And patterns.
  15. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Yes its very thin and nothing special so im told, my friend just bought me a bit to experiment with. Its like a net though so you have to have a clean nozzle or else it will get caught up on any dried bit amd ruin the fabric. Its quite strong though which is handy. Im doing a spikey test next! I think its the same material as a wedding veil. Silk mighy also work but is way more expensive.
  16. cloakfiend

    3D Print on Fabric test

    Heres the dirty setup. Layer height 0.2 and just wait untill the first layer is done pop on the fabric and stick it down nice and snug but not stretched. Thrn click resume...fun times. Ill pop some step by step pics next time if you like.
  17. I guess i could post this up, i have more photos of the process but its kinda on you tube. Im doing things very casually here. I would not recommend using bevelled glass as a cutting edge it leaves room for error and you really need a perfect edge to line up to the other. I bought the flat veneer knife online for a 10bucks. Its got a nice long thick blade and the only thing i needed as you need the one sided flat knife or else you get an uneven cut....escpecially if your gonna be using glass to lean against! I can imagine people using laser cutters to male cool veneer tables!!! Um should have one!! Might make one later
  18. I had no choice....it was my mums table and i told her i could save it after ruining it!!! Luckily shes happy with it again. 😂 Not much effort but more just making sure everything is done to the best of my ability...according to youtube videos lacking detailed information that is!! Like my 3d prints...i try best. Theres no point otherwise. Next table will be better!!! But it will be more creative!!! Veneers are fun! Ill need to buy metal ruler though as i only had a bit of glass to use as my guide when cutting because i had to ensure a perfectly straight line cut to line up all the veneers!! Not ideal but clearly doable!
  19. Thanks! Was good fun. Bit dusty mind you.
  20. This isnt directly UM related, but i thought it was great because I was using the same tools i bought to clean up my 3d prints to add a new veneer to a table I had ruined, after sanding it back to mdf. I did the iron on method in case you are wandering what the iron us doing. Very happy with it seeing as ivd never tried it before.
  21. cloakfiend

    What could cause this?

    I also agree, This has happened to me a lot, and tends to happen when joining the solo object to the main body. its the curled up edges simply getting knocked. and as the base is so fragile, it simply topples over. tends to be random, but also happens more when printing cooler. i think base adhesion is not that relevant, its the contact with the base being smaller than the join with the body causing this. if you turned the legs upside down it wouldn't happen as much. its the heavy head. this rarely happens on the um2 which has a much lighter head and not as much impact when it hits something.
  22. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Lolz😆, high tech mechanisms!!
  23. cloakfiend

    PVA not sticking on glass

    Not sure how to thin prittstick? But may give it a go. I guess it leaves less room for air to get in the gaps? But thats just a guess....
  24. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    Lol. Im gonna acetone her and paint her and we'll see how she turns out.... oh im nervous!! Printing at 195 with the bed at 55 seemed to have solved the warped bottom. Dutch orange is a very melty pla. It holds heat for longer. I also think if the poly count is too high, cura doenst like it. I could be wrong, but i remember having thus issue even on my um2. Either way im gonna print the newer model again and we'll see if im right. I fiddled around way too much trying to save the arm in the first so im not even sure what i did....
  25. cloakfiend

    Post your latest print!

    I felt like a surgeon doing this, was fun! operation complete! The bowl of nuts is just a nice mechanism of being able to position the model in anyway i choose quickly and easily while the glue sets. A bit ghetto stlye but very practical!
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