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cloakfiend

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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. Has some trouble with the oil in my car as I put in too much, and because I don't know much about cars I though a little more couldnt hurt. Big mistake. So I read on the Internet that you can just stick in a tube and suck some out with a syringe which I have plenty of. But no tube.... until I thought about my old ultimaker 2 bowden tube? I thought about my s5s as well but didn't want to ruin it. Turns out the u2 bowden tube was perfect and I saved my engine!! Yay. The benefits of a bowden tube to a regular fishtank tube or whatever is its strength. It won't fold in on itself with pressure cos it's thick yet bendy! And of course some pics... I cut it at an angle at one end. I'm making a cool mask helmet next so hold tight for that!
  2. As for pla and acetone dipping to get better surface quality, dont bother under 0.1mm layer height, id reccommend 0.06 however the benefit of dipping PLA/PHA is a change of state. The pla/pha becomes easier to sand after dipping. Im printing a helmet soon and most likely will hit the bondo. I never print large so will most likely use .2mm layer height. Ill document my build as it has a moving part i cant acetone all of it due to fear of warping but defo in some areas to improve the sanding abilitly rather than quality.
  3. Im going to do a tutorial for how I do my conductive coatings and plating very soon. Ill post it here as well if your interested. But im doing a few more fabric prints next on the fdm. Should be fun!...
  4. Bought a connect 4 from a charity shop for my nephew....didnt have a bottom. An hour later....it does. Yay Printer worked perfect after months of no use!
  5. @Mechatron127 until I got the s5. I was perfectly happy with my ultimaker 2 with the original black feeder and no autoleveling. I honestly dont get the htpe about auto levelint, sure its nice but its no deal breaker. If my s5 didnt have it, it wouldnt bother me. In fact I would actuallt turn off auto leveling during beta testing as it saved a minute or so and if i know its level whats the point of leveling it again each time I print? I consider it a luxury.
  6. Merry Christamas to all for all the talent here that keeps me inspired! Whether its creative or technical! big shout outs to: @SandervG @kmanstudios @gr5 @geert_2 @Smithy @tinkergnome @Torgeir @nallath @ahoeben @GregValiant and @ghostkeeperjust to name my most familiar posters! im sure I've missed out a few but a huge thankyou to everyone on this amazing journey. It's not over yet!
  7. Hi thanks! Yes there are pratically zero layer lines and filled with filler to add weight and give a much better sound when it knocks. I plated it as well for effect and it actually had held up amazingly. The knocker in the middle was printed seperately and is held in place by a nail through the core. And then dremmelling the ends off and simply bending the knocked over it. The inside of the knocker has two holes for the nail to go into each side.. id take it apart to show you but its easier to do soon after acetoning as the pla is more flexible and now i'd also risk separating the plate if id bend it too much as well as cracking the pla. I have a vid with it moving here...
  8. Here's a few more pics of my DIY door knocker I printed and plated from photogrammetry pics.
  9. Hi, Haven't posted in a while but thought I would share my Barcelona door knocker scan print. I really liked the door knocker so...now I have a mini one! I made no attempt to reconstruct the damage to it or the scan result. ill add a patina and I think it may look awesome after. then ill clear coat it.
  10. Ive simply gone back to using 3.4. The new curas have a problem with non unioned geometry from booleans in my experience. If it aint broke... dont fix it. I just use what works best or simply works.
  11. Yes but now i use zephyr free as im not subscribed to autodesk anymore.
  12. Ill just say it. That is a model Clitoris 100%. Just google clitoris model and you'll see, maybe with some other bits the vulva or something but in that general area. Looks well printed kinda looks like bone. I thought it was the inner ear at first but why would someone post that as we've all seen it loads in biology books....so must be something naughty! Lol.
  13. My new vacuum adaptor. Needed a much thinner bit for the back of the oven where loads of crumbs fall somehow. Worked a treat. Ultimaker tough black pla. No acetone on this one for a change! 35 mins later and bam. Adaptor issue over!
  14. I think I know what it is? Is it the ladies fun part?
  15. Thanks! I'm super happy with it and its not my dog so im cool with it. Good practice of modelling from photos. It was still alive when i first made it, but reprinting it much larger gave me the chance to fix some modelling errors that bugged me. Good old acetone to smooth the PLA PHA first always helps! Even though it was too hot and humid when i was applying it and will dunk in future as its way more effective. Burr tools used to cut away my manual supports. Saved me 9hrs of printing time.
  16. Thanks, Yes the white gloss came out well, just was not so shiny in a few places, I think that overspraying after touches dulled areas. Weird, maybe i didnt shake the can enough! I'll know for next time!
  17. Hi all, Havent posted in a while due to taking a bit of time out during covid, but now am back and more motivated than ever hopefully, Just finished this off for a friend, and the compartment was a last minute addition, just drilled out and slotted in, I havent made many functioning parts but it works well and the tolerance is so tight inside that the pot slides out like the lid of a new iphone box, smooooothly. So satisfying. Ill post a quick vid soon, but have already given the it to the new owner and not taken enough photos lol. Not sure how much ashes actually go in an urn so maybe if more are needed for future models I will have to find that out! But I its ok for at least a bit. the pics below. White gloss spray paint btw.
  18. Looks epic!!! Really like it! Well done! 23 days. My patience wears thin after 1 day!
  19. Hi Kman! Happy to help!!, the model is just smooth after due to the acetone and final touches with sand paper. I didnt even use an undercoat, id recommend using black or something dark.
  20. Cant believe i havent replied to this already. Its called Mirror by Stuart Semple! Need to check my inbox!
  21. Love these critters! amazing work as always!!
  22. Anytime I had layer shifting I cleaned and added lube to the rods and it sorted it. You may also want to make sure there is no slack in the belts either. But cleaning has worked for me for years. Luckily I've never had to do any other kind of maintenance. But i'd start at the easiest option. Its usually larger stuff this occurs on most but I guess it can effect anything.
  23. I could bring my time down using false nozzle sizes. Say 0.6 instead of 0.4 but top surfaces would beed a little help. If its large its kind of hard to avoid it taking long mind you.
  24. Mind you I don't print that many items, so a 24Hrs print is not an issue for me, and I print hollow, so to have a real nice print that needs very little clean up after 24hrs, means its worth the wait. also I rarely ever get failed prints. If ever. So no time wasted there either!
  25. I tend to print everything with 0.06 layer height. It greatly improves quality. Outside 30mm inside 70mm per second.
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