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cloakfiend

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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. Lol i meant the base layer of the trophy lol. Im already printing it in two halves. Its too tall as it is and im printing the base on my um2 at the same time. I guess just looking at it againt the top half wont be so bad but the very bottom is big See pic.
  2. Yes im printing a large trophy with a large base that gets narrower as it goes up so waiting for hours for a base that inwill add to later anyways would be a monumental waste of time for me. Especially at 0.06 layer height! I want a print without base setting ideally.
  3. Unfortunately, No, because all that does is print the initial layer (line) at a the selected height. usually i put like 0.1 or something....i would like to put 1.2. But im not sure how that would work as its a bit thick for a single layer considering im printing at 0.06? I was morethinking about if it was possible to print without a base layer yet? And just from the walls? Skipping the time filling in the base. It would save me about 2-3 hrs. I.e. hollow with no base.so when you take it off its hollow and you can see the inside. If that makes sense? One of the devs said it would be possible to replace it with an infill amount when i brought it up ages ago but not sure if it was actually implemented....eitherway i have a touch more modelling to do before i print my object.
  4. Hi folks, im about to print something with a large base but dont want to wait like 3 hours for all 17 layers as im printing in 0.06, and was wandering if there is a setting to somehow tell thecprinter to only print one layer for the initial layer at say 0.1mm but the rest at 0.06? If so could someone show me how. Ill admit i havent even looked into the settings of cura 4.4 yet but im in a hurry to print something thats gonna take a while and im in bed now and just thought of it! Thank you to anyone in advance if you help me. I hope there is a way!! Sorry to beg!! As always I'm short on time to print.
  5. https://www.engadget.com/2020/02/13/3d-print-whole-objects-seconds-resin/ Thats cool insane! Lol those crazy science folks!!. Bet it costs a lot. I remember hearing about that other one that printed in minutes. Lol. An nothing since! Still has limitations of resin. They need to do this with colorfabb pla pha!
  6. Yes, lol, sanding is fine, but waiting for newly applied filler is a real ball-ache. I just got into the habit of sanding before acetoning because it saves so much time in post. I can simply give a model a once over in a few minutes with 240 grit a brush on acetone job and done! The art of sanding is to leave as little to sand as possible. When you slap filler on or have like massive areas to smooth just use a burr tool on a dremmel. They are my new best friend. I have loads and they are cheap as chips and last ages. From 1mm delicate ones to massive fat ones. the smaller the burr the more likely to melt and make smoothing possible. Theres an art to using them. And tons of different shapes for those impissible to sand areas! They will save you hours of time!! Dont even waste youre time trying to hand sand out huge uneven areas! Im now working on something really amazing for my models, but as usual i'm completely new to it and it involves tons of crazy sounding chemicals ive never heard of and powder coatings and....electricity!!! Expensive mind you! Im getting help from some scientists on this one!! Lol. I'm gonna need it, just not enough info on google atm!
  7. I kinda like the grey bits. But i dont like other bits. It looks like that purely due to the many layers of tamiya filler over time. And the filler itself is drying out hence looking different colours. Its a ton of sanding work which i dont mindcso much anymore but my quest to smooth finishes means im for ever correcting areas here and there resulting in those weird patterns. It was perfect and entirely white just a few months ago. And looked similar back then when i painted it. If you are after that look its not hard to acheive just takes time because you constantlyhave to wait for the previous layers to dry....and thats the most irritating part. I found a quick setting putty (for drains) which sets in minutes but nothing as fine and smooth as tamiya. If you have subtle splits in your model I would highly reccomend it. They doa white one I think a well for extra fine but ive not tried it the grey is fine to me. Also for those new to sanding and watching all those videos showing people going through like 10 grades of grit before acheiving a smooth surface, its not neccesary with pla after acetoning. I use 2 max maybe 3 if its real ruff. 120 for the rough spots if you got any. If just small bumps, 240 will be fine pre acetoning otherwise a bit of a once over with 400 is fine (more than enough for most if your gonna be painting!). But you need to make sure the acetone has dried out or else your gonna have a hard time sanding acetone soaked pla/pha. Its weird in that soft state. But more flexible. After it dries moisturise it if you are worried about it drying out and when it absorbs the moisture and is touch dry then treat it as normal pla again. Paint it sand it whatever.
  8. I was in my garage finally finishing my most split object ever. Took 2 days to print and ive spent about 4 days just fixing it over and over again learning how different solvents and fillers work together and sandability. I could have easily just printed again but i learn more this way and improve my filling sanding techniques. One thing i learnt was that you need to regularly wipe clean and regrease the main screw or else dust gathers on it which in turn create subtle unwanted layer lines. Also my garage umia like a desert. It gets freezing at night and hot in the day. These following objects have been there for over 6 months now. The lady was hollow and split so bad you can see how many layers of filler i used. Squadron filler white and tamiya putty grey. Squadron putty does not fair well to moisture. I filled the lady full of plaster so the pla (red tr colorfabb) should not split anymore as the trapped air inside is now gone and as it heats in the sun it cant warp as much as it doenst have as much freedom to move as before. So far so good. Last time it split within days of being perfectly rescued. Twice. Third time lucky i guess. Large stuff where acetone gets inside and in direct sunlight and cold temps is very prone to splitting. I think its finally settled now. The arm is glued on, so is the hair, and the hand. But its really solid and properly stuck. I did a great job attaching it if i dont say so myself. As good as a good doctor!! The models that split were all black pla and burger kitty was the light brown. Slight splitting on that one. All models are hollow apart from the lady and painted face. Again did the primer aid the cracking??? Dutch orange colorfabb pla pha cracked when hollow and acetone reached inside. Black colorfabb pla pha hollow primed with thinned tamita grey primer. Red colorfabb tr primed with valejo mecha black. Hollow not capped. Light brown pla pha colorfabb (discontinued) hollow primer. Tiny splits Black colourfabb pla pha primed with thinned tamiya primer. Filled solid with plaster. Eithet the black or paint thinner paint mix or both has split the models. And of course repeated direct sunlight heat and cold exposure Regardless of plaster filling. The lady split due to acetone abuse! Lol. My bad, im a bad influence!
  9. Not sure if its just me but ive noticed that when i load the ultimaker page for the first time and scroll down in the menu. It NEVER shows join the community. It ALWAYS stops at community (which you cant actually click on) and then you have to scroll again. Weird? Dunno maybe cos im still on a note4? Just starting to bother me having to scroll to the bottom and then scroll again.
  10. It could also be the primer paint?... often paint also contain solvents. Thats why the transparent colorfabb works so well it already has solvents mixed in. Generally, too much acetone releases these solvents and thus causes the cracking in my opinion but J really dont know? So many variables im doing a big print for work soon. I hope it doesnt split as its for live TV and would be a disastser! It aslo has to be solid at the base but flexible-ish at the top! More unknown territory for me then.... and multi part.. what do i get my self into lol. All because i love 3s printing. I always say yes to ANY job that requires it!
  11. Well here we are... reaaaaally old prints all avetoned and totally hollow and all in the same room. Basically colourfabb black was the worst. All black models split (the grey primed one) also my trex skulls but i forgot to photo those. (They were my first EVER) acetone experiments so ill make sure to photograph them too. Thats 6 years old! The rest are 1-4 years old my Red colorfabb was good. Brown poor like the black and marine blue was good and i acetoned the hell out of the blue!!!. The brown was ancient btw and I bought it on sale so no surprises there, but my lighter colours seem fine and I use them all the time even though ive had them laying about my house for years. Age only really affected the darker colours? Mind you I may have gone heavier on the black and brown but in hindsight all my acetoned black prints split ovet time. The pics... all brushed on no dipping. Ill do a test on something i dont like...but i cant really justify wasting time on things i dont like.... but il do it for you @geert_2!....I guess printing another kello kitty cant hurt. At least I can show you a nice quick way of filling the splits in a video. I haven't done one in a while! Light brown Colorfabb PLA/PHA (A FEW SPLITS) “This product will be discontinued. Once there is no stock anymore no more products will be produced. Offer is valid until stock lasts.” Special Price €19.97 for those interesed from their website. Transparent Red Colorfabb PLA/PHA (NO SPLITS) Ultra Marine Blue Colorfabb PLA/PHA (NO SPLITS) Black Colorfabb PLA/PHA (LOADS OF SPLITS) Traffic Red Colorfabb PLA/PHA (NO SPLITS)
  12. After some experimentation I can confirm that cura 4.4.1 and the new firmware 5.4 or whatever it is works just fine. So all good. All my old stuff however no longer works but im ok with that as i have too much on my stick now anyways and it takes too long going through it all. I'd rather archive my obj files rather than curas sliced files anyway. ive gathered quite a few now.
  13. No but I may do just out of interest, to be honest I have had almost no models split on me since i have stopped dipping and only using the brush on method. will try again soon, but im making much larger models than before so dipping becomes very inconvenient as I dont do my whole 5ltr acetone tank dip routine anymore!! lol. I have bought loads of paints recently and am painting my old skulls with flat matts lol. this skull is about 2 years old and has been above my fire place for a year, and its fine still. as well as the plated and patina'd one. I think its funny showing you an example of a smooth surface using one of the darkest flattest mattest paints available! still no splits! lol side by side for comparison.....Ill post non painted stuff when I get home! gonna slap a shiny laquer over the patina skull as well. just to see what it looks like!
  14. Not chatted on this topic for a while, but I've been having havoc with my curly hair lady, and had to repair it sooooo many times. I used tamiya putty to fill the cracks twice now, but realise what I had done wrong in the first place! I acetoned it with holes in the model and then proceeded to leave it in the window in full view of the sun, now I have many models in full view of the sun but the only ones that cracked were the hollow ones, so if your gonna acetone models like me and leave them in heat or the sun, they will crack. I have 6 year old hollow models that I've kept inside and they are fine, mind you in the room with my fire place I've noticed a few cracks. Its the acetone weakened walls that simply are drying out and splitting. once filled with plaster they are eternally damp inside so won't split in my opinion, maybe uv spray could prolong the hollow light and heat related splitting but who knows. I doesn't really matter. my unacetoned print look fine on the same window sill, but also most likely with my lady print, is that I glued 4 parts onto it, One arm, hand and the back hair bit and acetone got inside when doing my heavy brushing! When acetone gets inside your print it almost ALWAYS spells disaster in the long run. one of my prints directly above my fireplace expanded like a balloon, looked well funny! I'll post a pic if i find it! BTW That grey tamiya putty is the business!! goes on too thin, so nice! even though Id rather never use but in case you get tiny splits or something its soon easy filling them.
  15. Thanks, I'm normally Mr Legacy and I've had long argument with people who always think the newest versions of everything are the best and how I warn them to wait a bit unless they are happy being guinea pigs. Some people even refused to roll back or use older versions and struggle on with their issues because it meant they werent using the latest and 'greatest'. So silly. In this case guess I was away for bit and didn't read about the issues some people had as normally they are fine. Ill just leave it at 5.2.11 for ever now! Lol. Lesson learnt!....unless I update the actual machine. I must have been waaay behind firmware wise though because the auto levelling seems much quicker. Im just gonna reslice everything again to make sure my stick is not corrupting or any other weird issues. Ill stick to the new cura v4 as well. Seems nicer! Well done there cura people! Been using v3.4 for waaay too long now!
  16. Actually nah I take it back. New firmware is a lame duck, for me anyways more random failures on files I've printed repeatedly. Perhaps due to my machine series and lack of addons, eitherway, rollin back to 5.2.11.... or I've been away for a bit and my machine is upset I've left it alone for so long!lol. Im getting really creative again now... so I need my reliability back. Not waking up to loudly blowing fans that have been doing that all night whilst i was sleeping. Shame. If this keeps up may have to go back to the um2 after all!
  17. They have a full colour lcd display it could simply display the symbol and writing in big. Even though anyone whos bought one with half a brain would already know its hot. I feel this is a warning for no win no fee claims idiots. I mean you have to physically open the door or put your hand all thd way in to touch it. Doing that to any machinery you dont understand is pretty stupid if you ask me. And yes i know....curiosity.....killed the cat!
  18. Hopefully all good now! i installed cura 4.4.1 after about 6 or 7 weird failures in a row but now seems to be printing. I noticed that printing started from the center rather than from the left or right side as before. Also wait times when aborting seem to be much longer for some reason. Will post if I have any further issues. But I still think the warning should be red, lol. That's what I get for not reading threads in full.
  19. I just updated my S5 now and its basically useless, none of my old files from my usb card work, I can't print, it crashes all the time tried both nozzles and none work. just endlessly grinds into the bed oozing out and giving errors before i have to switch it off or it just dies. I get a weird unreadable orange warning which i later read, caution hot surface ( whoever though white text on yellow was a good idea? seriously? Its completely unreadable it should be white on red or something) basically upset that I have to go back to my UM2. and leave the s5. 😞 Will try with cura 4.4 but I have so many files I made with 3.4 i reprint off my current stick do i reallI have to redo slicing them all???? Im going into a corner to sulk now. Can I rollback my firmware somehow? Back one year if poss? Is this easily readable? I dont think so.. just curious but does anyone disagree?
  20. In my opinion after much use I am very happy with my 3d pen which was a gift from my girlfriend for my birthday which was nice. I consider all 3d pens to be pretty much identical and of poor quality so i dont think it makes much difference which one you get as long as it works without breaking and uses both pla and abs. I think having a wireless one is pointless as I cant imagine it lasting a long time and i just bought a 3m long super thin usb cable to use with mine and i can print forever. The one it comes with remind me of the ipad 2 charging cable which was about 0.3m long. Lol. All the brand names seem like made up names and dont even exist when you google them so its gonna be hit and miss in my opinion. The only thing i hate about mine is when i press back it ejects the whole filament instead of retracting. But i can get used to that. I post a pic when i find it.
  21. Its the grey power version that even i cant always find. Its identical to elmers in application but much stronger and more scratch resistant on the buildplate hence printing more on it without re application. However.... in all seriousness i would always apply a new coat to an important print regardless. You never know if a spot has worn through and it could just happen by chance to be in a critical spot where your model sits or some support is required. But for casual prints and tests and gifts i just keep printing and printing. Sometimes ill prime it with one print as the first print sticks a bit too much. Then ill do my main one to avoid issues gettng it off. I generally stick a scalpel blade under it to let in air to get it off. Salt is much better but im told its not good for tall stuff? I still need to test this out because i use it to print on fabric.
  22. Ah thats great to know thanks! i though that might be the case, if i go even two layers on my glue. I fear for my prints. Too hard to remove. I even chipped my um2 glass trying to remove a large print. I never did do the the whole rubbing glue around with water. I found the glue it shipped with was just too weak, i did try but ut failed on my second print. My prittstick has never failed. But it has made me destroy a couple of prints while i figured out ways to remove them in the process. Will give this magigoo a goo. Any recomendation? For a strong pla one or are they all pretty good?
  23. I may try some of this magigloo looks interesting! As for low level cf pla defo salt method but only at 210 for colorfabb and above othewise it doesnt always stay down. But its a dream to remove after. ... i have printed loads (50+)on my gluestick which is prittstik power. But it only a matter of time before you ruin it or it starts fading and re-application is required!
  24. Here you go, like I said not much happed after the 1st hour, but I left it in anyways.... some close ups as well. 4 seconds of action spread out over 1.30 lol. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heCkyfcGW8c Not sure how to embed a video here anymore, is the option gone?
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