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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. This job was one of learning, and all the coins I ended up making destroyed themselves to a certain extent due to unforseen circumstances. Thats the trouble with plating 3D objects. Sealing the object and keepin it detailed at the same time. PLA unfortunately is not watertight. I printed with a bit hollow in the center. Big mistake! as I haven't acetoned these they absorbed a small amount of acid through pourous areas of the PLA and tiny holes in the corners of gaps, and after plating slowly this trapped the corrosive liquid inside corroded between the layers, sparating the metal coating fron the coin. I tried to splice the layer open and inject superthin superglue underneath and iron/burnish it all flat, but the plate is too thick and just cutting it open and sticking a syringe underneath damaged it too much. Lesson learned. If you are gonna plate something make sure its air tight going in the plating solution, or else disaster.... lol. The main issue was the letters were embossed too deeply and this caused internal cavities. I should have just printed solid or made platinum molds from the start. Now its too much cost and effort to continue so Im just gonna make myself some coins properly, but not 15 of them.
  2. Here no support at all. I didnt realise id made the outer ring larger and forgot to increase the support. Totally pointless but still worked!. Looking here i think ive got a 5 line brim which is my standard. So damn shiny this one!
  3. To be honest they came out perfect on the s5 but poorly on my um2 but that was with a different filament so not fair comparison. Only one nozzle no support no pva. No acetone. Just did some with acetone in selected parts now because otherwise it ruins the detaiks too much. Ill post more pics. But in my honest opinion, and much testing and practice, all you need for 99% of support on vertical pieces is a single or dual or triple.... .4 / .6 line underneath. Its just the most efficient way of doing it. Cura should include it as an option. Obvs depending on the width of the over hang of course! Works on everything including thing vertical thin structures. And is far more painless to remove. Just needs a certain distance to connect to form a strong structure and enough secondary supports to keep it from wobbling. I'm sure i'm the only one who actually understands what I've actually droned on about here but i think i need to make it a bit clearer. ...on another note. Those coins didnt require ANY support. I did it just in case. But i decided to print horizontally side by side to prevent the head from tipping them over if aligned vertically. I printed some without any support and was amazed they came out perfect and didnt gey knocked down and without brim too! But i like to be safe not sorry so I slapped a thin wall there that can be snapped off easy after.
  4. Heres a 'coin' i made for a friend. Took bloody ages. Still got 14 more to do.... havent plated in ages. I already messed one up need to re-learn or familiarise. But my kit is dying next one aint shiny lol. Need to hand polish.! Printed vertically For the curious...
  5. Nice flower things. I was thinking of doing that all over my house with gargoyles and all but never got round to it!
  6. Nevermind its was cura 3.4 actually. It was under print thin walls. I guess its default for the s5? For the first time ever im seeing the s5 outperform my um2 quality wise? Not speedwise though! Lol. Could just be the yellow filament is crappy though. S5 gets nothing but tr red for quality jobs. I just ruined 12 printed coins that took 40 hours to print. So annoyed with myself. I knew the tiny details would be destroyed with acetone!!!! Oh well now i know for sure. Will post my results when and if i ever finish this commision!
  7. Just wondering but how come when i set the um2 nozzle to .35 just like my s5 the line wont draw. Here is the same model same size but one has my manual support the other doesnt? Anything ive missed? Just curious.
  8. Another thing is fire places and sources of intense heat or constant heat will affect the models a lot. The acetone tends to dry them out and intense heat even further causing rapid splitting. Also heating up a closed hollow model after acetonig can cause the model to inflate as acetone reaction seals the model from moisture... once you know how it reacts you can pre determine how to do things.
  9. Yes indeed. Acetone goes deep. Deeper than Eddie Murphy going undercover in Bevery Hills Cop. It can also shrink. A lot! Ive done many tests on this. Its why you need to be very careful with exposure times and why brushing is less prone to warping than dipping which can play havok with hollow models.
  10. Sprayed....its so tempting to just lather the entire thing in primer but if you wanna keep all the details you have to resist temptation!
  11. Sprayed...primer. heavy coat. Tamiya fine primer...lame photo.
  12. Ive been ultra busy lately but here is mr cathulhu with a rattle can primer. Airbrush was not available. Printed 2 if these, i always end up trying to fix things and keep finding new things ti change, but overall im real happy. One is gonna be green and pink and the other pink and green.
  13. Just thought Id add that I used mr dissolved putty for the rocky underneath area where support was awkward toremove and clean up which i couldn't be bothered doing for a test print. It does a great job of filling in holes and areas leaving them much smoother to undercoat later. Saves on sanding! Great for filling in random bits and bobs and smoothing surfaces. Smells like nail varnish. take a bit of time to set, but its kinda like acetone you can rub it by hand and sand it later when fully cured. I seem to have a use for many random products. anything to save time sanding of course! To straighten the base ill just end up glueing it to a small flat bit of metal so that its flush with flat surfaces and not curling up!
  14. My scan of gaudys bust from one of the attractions on my visit to spain earlier in the year. Came out ok. Did it a while back. Shame i overdid the acetone and the base warped a bit on the sides. My fault entirely.
  15. Yes the wings are very thin. About .4-.6mm so they mimic the real thing because the light gets through. Unfortunately I had one bad layer so i just acetoned all of it. I need to remake onecwing anyway so ill print the next one in tr green and just avoid the wing membrane when acetoning.
  16. My now old attempt at a sculpt of herbert west from reanimator. Glasses will come later. They are very thin i want to thicken them. Post acetone.
  17. My take on the pusheen burger kitty meme.
  18. Just acetoned him and cut his wings out using a hot knife. Starting to look good now, just needs painting! One wing is bigger than the other and it annoys a but be but I was trying hard to have it in the same pose as the meme I used as inspiration.
  19. Heres my Cathulhu model. Came out great considering it was full of intersecting geometry. I realised that if i have unassigned polygroups on an object and bring them into MAX then it creates seperate elements within the object that arent joined geometrically to the model yet still a part of it. Cura doesnt like this. At all. I keep forgetting to reassign my elements after editing them! Oh well. it works and thats all that counts! Well done cura! Ill post more pics as it complete it. Its a bit impossible to see whats going on at the moment. The wings are using my classic bespoke support because cura cant create good support for thin tall vertical objects and anything vertical that starts with a sharp spike, like the bottom of a dragon wing claw or fingers pointing down. Eitherway not hard to remedy bespokely. maual support is 0.4 -0.6mm thick for those interested. Now for the clean up, filling, acetoning, sanding, spraying, and painting!
  20. Nice, my drawings also take ages because they are shaded by pressing the pen very lightly and one mistake and its all ruined. I like that ethic. no errors. its how I like things to go, lol. 3D sculpting is exactly like drawing for me, its just you need to find a brush that suits your style, i found the square build up brush served me well because it gave hard edges and make massive changes. Great for sihouetting forms out. but theres no escaping tedious parts as well. I had to learn how to sculpt tentacles and wings for my latest project. I went the wrong way about it but im sure ill make an octopus at some point in the future so ill try more methods later. Ill try and remove the support when i get back.... I have a feeling the wings could break off as they are very thin. I would suggest getting a portable wacom, as I have sculpted pretty much evertything I have ever done on my sofa. I work on a compter all day at work. Sitting in a chair facing a desk and monitor is not something i look forward to anymore. But each to their own! Owning a 3D printer forced me to learn 3d sculpting, and I hate learning new programmes.
  21. Thanks Kman. and as if by a stroke of luck my model with all those intersecting verts actually printed! Im gonna try to do something arty with him because its fiction, but I still have my reanimator model that need realistic painting! gonna be fun, also still have my burger cat to paint as well!!! that ones gonna be fun!! Great that you are feeling better and drawing is nice to do! I love biro art, but not tried the booth style. I just crosshatch very finely. Im still amazed at the amount of detail in this, just so much to look at! and the books are perfect in shape and colour too! M
  22. ...and your hand eye co-ord is defo looking looking on the mend to me! I got a lot of catching up to do! Im visiting HP Lovecraft material for my next prints! Keep up the massive inspiring good work! CF
  23. Damn you work your printers hard!!. Damn good work too!! well done, I'm trying to paint my new stuff, shouldhave a few things to show soon! Mine have it easy lately! I've been having major problems lately due to tons of rats nests (intersecting verts!), 720 of them!! Had to go back to zbrush to cut them all out! am printing now, but i know it will fail again, just didnt know why before! my s5 print head just parks itself on the right hand side middle area and jitters there. I kinda prefered the out of print area window as this new thing just stops the print but still says its printing!
  24. Im glad you kept the white colour though. It means it can live in my mums kitchen without her being to bothered about it!. Black would be a no no for the kitchen
  25. Lol, i was just bored and felt like offerring a design suggestion/direction for the brand logo...which wasnt asked for btw lol. ...but surely you noticed theres no more robot on the side. My s5 has a robot. The one on the picture doesn't.
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