cloakfiend

Well heres my tetris matt v2 fixed the reverse side! One more to go and im going back to sculpts...getting distracted lol. Salt is defo the way to go for this stuff. You just peel it off the plate under some water to be safe and done. Clean and easy! Just print 5degrees hotter for colofabb that doesnt want to stick at 205. So 210. At .2 mm layers.

Cool idea! I guess you just need to figure out the tolerances of the fold size and how to clip the ends into each other.

Thanks i just realised the text is backwards on the flipside so im doing a reversible version now. And one with dots as well. They take ages to print mind you..... glad i sorted my blocked print core!

Tetris rug

I think I had an issue with the printer not noticing the core was jammed up and I just assumed that cura had decided to refuse printing some areas, when in reality cura most likely was fine, I'm doing another go now with the sub objects version as opposed to the many object version.

So far so good, in updated the firmware and all appears good so far after cleaning the nozzle fot about 40mins with an airbrush needle and accu needles and then a few hot cold pulls. I noticed that if i pumped the pla in the core like mini hot pulls, then the filament came out expanded? like injecting air into it, It would be like 3 times thicker. then settle down a few seconds later.

Thanks for the info, but i dont happen to have a spare head at the mo. I have a diff size but need to learn to clean them. I am doing a lot of experimenting and with fabrics i feel i may have clogged it by printing 'into the fabric' i had loads of out of filament errors then which is odd, because now its not giving any errors at all as if the sensor is dead or something? Weird. Ill keep trying untill i get this one print done. Dont care how many times i fail. No pain no gain. Im fairly new to dual colour so need to get over this hurdle....then ill be good! I just ordered a cleaning kit and filament for shizzles and giggles, so ill see how that goes as well and will review whatever i buy as well. Never tried cleaning filament before. One of my .4AAs was badly blocked many months ago using experimental filament so im kinda cautious whether i cleaned it properly back in the day hence the problems in it. Im not used to cleaning nozzles anymore as once you get temps down you generally dont need to. Its just when things go pear shaped you need to be aware of how to fix it. No biggie but new learning on a new printer. I knew id have to do this eventually!

My main problem now is either a firmware upgrade for the S5 or I don't know. I solved my filament not sticking to the salt plate issue now but I though before that the sub objetcs i had created in 3ds max were causing a problem in cura, but after I remade the design from scratch and checking everything and double and triple checking, I now found that the S5 is responsible. For some bizzare reason the flow sensor in head 2 is simply not working, the material has ground at the feeder and has burnt out the nozzle. So here i am on my night shift with nothing to look forward to showing you lovely people in the morning. I am a bit upset to tell the truth! I hope I can clean that nozzle, any advice to clean these cores would be appreciated. Another thing I noticed which definitely needs to be changed (not sure if it has already though as I am running slightly older firmware) but to be able to have full control of the cores and be able to heat them up/down and move material during pause mode as if you have a problem like me, them you simply wont be able to fix it. Makes pause mode far less useful than it should be. Hopefully I'll be able to fix all this and show you some wicked stuff..... but knowing me I'm going to try to upgrade the firmware and end up bricking the machine completely!!!.....UM2 and single colour was so easy...... ....maybe I have a fan issue as well....depressing.. oh well back to my night shift!!

Yes ive tried thicker fabrics and they simply dont fold easily enough so are no good for my purposes. And i also simply tape my material to the plate, but was wandering what glue you used for the bed for the filament to stick to. After all we all want super adhesion with a shiny bottom layer. I got lots of amusing fabric prints now, ill post them later in my thread when i get home..! @MrMaint thats good advice about the superglue. I admit ive done that afew times but its not alway possible with most of my designs, especially when there are hundreds or corners...😣 Edit....I think I've solved the filament not sticking to the bed issue and my stuff is all going well now, but I have other issues..... print core failure. and flow failure.....

lol, yes indeed I initailly saw a still of his work using tulle and then did my own stuff from there on, I hadnt seen his videos, but damn he needs to learn how to hold a camera better!. Im doing different stuff, where unfortunately there is much more room for failure as one single mistake on the inital layer ruins everything! well annoying! especially when using multiple colours!! double room for failure!! ....and @MrMaint you dont stick the fabric to theplate as then you dont get the shiny surface which is thewhole point. I meant you can, but it gives no benefits whatsoever. Ideally you want it sandwiched between the print material.

BTW, What glue are you using? Im having trouble finding a glue I can wash off easily after. Will need to look into water soluble glues.... I've gone waaaaaaaaay to detailed and bits are falling off here and there. each colour needs tweaking to print fine and its well annoying, not to mention the sheer amount of objects to slice in cura and two layer colour separation.😢 loads of fails but I can see potential. I've done loads of these now and have a few methods of doing them, im using regular non pourous fabrics now, and printing one side only. but the problem is no reflective top layer!! ...was going to do fish scales as well! haha great minds think alike!

Hi, Ive recently started to experiment with pattern printing but have noticed issues when importing large numbers of sub objects all attached as one (i.e. one object with 100 cubes rather than 100 cubes as objects), it appears to take much longer slicing but far faster exporting from 3dsmax, which is why I tried it. Has anyone else had this issue? Its as if cura just gives up after a certain number of attached objects and stop printing them.. weird.. I will run a script to separate all the objects as individual objects and give it another go..shame it was all going so well. I really need to start previewing cura as I experiment more and more..... Also just wandering is there is an official poly limit? thanks,

Well the fabric has taken a different path what i had planned failed due to other colours and the fabric being too thick. but in the meantime the S5 and dry ice, lol. why not, i just had some left over from a film shoot.

Unfortunately some colourfabb colours just arent aticking to the salt as others. Dutch orange is king here. Red and blue not quite as good and UM silver is also very good.

Fair enough ill admit that makes sense. Im just doing my first proper two colour print and when i put in the other AA I came across that issue as i just clicked print and realised i had not primed the nozzle. So in my opinion the procedure should go... 1 remove nozzle....then the printer either heats up the current nozzle to wind back the filament or you just whip out the nozzle and it knows you did this so it doesnt bother winding it back. (Yoy could even have the option to skip the filament removal!) 2 click ok when the new nozzle is in. 3 then either click to prime or skip for manual prime Thats what i would do, i wouldnt automatically prime the nozzle with new filament however as i often change my mind and using the lever is far quicker. You think you want everything automated but it gets boring and frustrating real fast. In my honest opinion i just whip the old nozzle out and slap in a new one. I dont even think it needs a removal procedure! But seeing as there is one then an automatic filament load after the change is a perfectly reasnoble thing to do. I guess if you dont want to then you simply dont load on any filament! Still i would like a print with last used bed leveling option.

Yes sure i understand, but its just two clicks. If you change your nozzle (i.e.) dont bother doing it in the menu, then you just select the material and select move. But fair enough. You want it to automatically feed some material through with a 'purge old material' selection or something in the menu. Makes sense. I want a print using previous auto leveling results as well to kick of jobs quick. But i guess ill make a new thread for that. Lol

Just select the cordon the menu and then move material.. until its cleared? Im not sure what the issue it. when you select move material, it automatically heats up the nozzle to the selected PLA or whatever. if it doesn't the just select change material and do it unless I'm wrong. I am running old firmware mid you, but i doubt they would have changed that?

Hopefully youll see tomorrow!!! Its a variant on my fabric printing. Fingers crossed!!

Nice ball!!! And nice peactical skills! Looks neat and tidy!!! Im also trying something fun out myself, hope it wirks as well as this!

For me ive used prit stick power for the past 4 years with applications every few months. But recently tried the salt method to great success. And i have to agree with sander on this one. Just looking at the first layer, it doesnt look like its squished enough, and looks like your also getting underextrusion. But sometimes skipped lines can just be the initial moments the temps are settling after the initial higher lower routine. Squashed is better than not squashed. Thats about it. Once you get it right youll be fine.

Well i wasnt sure if i had applied the salt correctly, as i saw no faint mist or anything just water all over the plate so i just heated it up wiped on a few more gentle strokes and it appears to have worked perfectly! So thanks @geert_2 for that! Below is another test where i printed a few sectios.one way a few the other and a few more alternating. The trouble is that it just ends up looking like an untidy carpet or something? Anyway pics... sorry for the crappy photos my phone cam is dying. The bottom sparkles in the light though!

are you sure its not bad geometry?

The spikey one. Was a bit rough so it looks a bit battered on the edges!

i have to say that getting my latest one off the plate resulted in some damage to the fabric, so im gonna have to try the salt method with my next one. the material was not as strong as i thought!

Yes i think thas the name! Tulle Its lots of fun and so many posibilities, i will try dual colour next and then weirder shapes. And patterns.