Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. Im gonna paint these, im pretty sure they werent split that bad? But the hollow ones are. If you leave your acetoned model hollow and its not translucent colourfabb and exposed to heat frequently or in direct sunlight, then it will most likely split. If its filled or printed with transparent colorfabb it wont, or is way less likely.
  2. Adding heat to an acetoned model does nothing but heat it up making it flexible by superheating the trapped air and by simply being acetoned. The acetone alters the state of pla to something else and hardens later irrespective of heat. Someone mentioned dishwasher liquid to stop the reaction but seeing as the acetone has already penetrated deep into the acetone i think theres little chance of that as dishwasher liquid does not penetrate pla. I must stress to all those new to this thread that this was a completely failed model with multiple reprinted areas and im simply continuing with it
  3. I tried sanding a few areas on the face after attempting to fill a few cracks with putty. Turns out this primer doesnt sand well and just peels horribly when combined with putty and i was lazy and tried too soon. Just ended up using acetone to 'wash' everything off. Im slowly getting tired of this.. lol. I now regret not just printing another! Eitherway I've learnt a lot on the way! I guess it pays in the long run to get everything perfect before painting. I just got impatient as usual. Lol.
  4. Here we go again lol. This is my last time fixing it. Whatever it is after it will remain. I should have stuck to tamiya rattle can primer. It dries rock solid and sand well. This valejo mecha white primer is a tad rubbery when dry and hence sands awfully. I slapped on one more coat of tamiya putty to fill the sanded holes. Ill leave it overnight to set hard and sand paint and move on to the next model. I really enyoyed sculpting this one. I may print the full version another time as I did the complete body.
  5. Also just a note but you only really need two shades of grey to get that weird effect. Here it was the tamiya putty and tamiya primer combo which worked nicely. Maybe ill just try doing a whole model like that? Im now using lockdown time to try and finish off a bunch of models. Never thought id see a pandemic in my lifetime.
  6. The issue is not layer lines so much (even though the zscrew was dirty when i printed this hence the bad layers), its more heat warped splits. They warp the the plastic outwards at the crack. Like a volcano. So the area to be fixed is like 20 times the width of a crack..... i also did your heat curing acetone by slapping acetone on some objects and popong them in front of a 30degrees fireplace and then directly above it. To interesting results. The acetone may have evaporated which makes to model sandable but the vapours or air trapped inside superheats and results in it becoming extremely sof
  7. Well I finally got round to painting, but as i thought. The warped splits are still visible after painting. Im gonna have to sand n fill and sand for like the 5th time. Im gonna only focus on the worst areas as I just wanna finish it. I could have saved myself the trouble had i just printef it again. This model has a glued arm and hand but holds firm. I plan on glossing it up and using gold leaf for the hair. Done. Also painted the hello kitty, lol.
  8. Nice glad it worked!
  9. I do this type of thing for printing on fabric a lot and even sub mililmeter. Your mesh is the issue, or intersecting geometry. A simple extrude always seems to work for me, even if its awful from a polygon distribution side of things. Also make sure all your polys/Elements are closed. Make sure to draw it yourself and don't use illustrators convert to vectors or anything like that. Try make it thicker and see what happens you may see something in the mesh, and don't forget you can z scale it in cura later anyway as there is no Z detail only X and Y. Just an idea, good
  10. Hi all again. Just thought id add that if you use 1% infil it helps a quite bit. But not perfect. Still needs to be eased in in cura in my honest opinion. Anything else is a ball ache. And it would mean perfect printing. Currently top curved hollow surfaces all suffer, and if you have any detail in them you wont be able to sand it out.
  11. That all sounds great but cura should always ease in massive differences in print time per layer as i print many things most hollow some not. But i tend to design on the fly. So basically i always get the below lines near the top of the curved surface its just a pity because this could be fixed with easing the skin in thats all. Instead i have a ton more zen sanding to do. Lol Various settings to no real removal of the visible line.
  12. Reimporting the same model sounds long. And then doing all that box stuff. That top skin needs to be programmed to ease in oversay 5 or 6 layers. Maybe more. Its the only thing wrong with cura at the moment. It means you will never be able to print a perfect hugh res semi sphere without using filler. Which is exactly what i needed to. Make a sphere fron two semis. 0.06 has many benefits to lower reses and i think its neglected in cura. Everyone seems to love 0.1? 0.06 was the sole reason i bought one back in the day. I alread have 3 wall. I dont want mess around with 4 or 5 to fix an issue tha
  13. Hi @eldrick thanks for the info! could you elaborate on the 'Adaptive layers' setting how it works and what i'd need to set to make the top skin ease in instead of simply arriving on one layer. It would make my cute kitten models much easier to post process!! Thanks.
  14. The topskin produces much cleaner tops with it than without it, so having the topspin is needed, but its a shame it doesn't ease in from one layer to the next as this would fix the visible line on the surface. Its not a matter of layer height, thats entirely unrelated. its a matter of layer time taken from one layer to the next.
  15. This really should be looked at. It means there is always a visible line the moment the top skin kicks in becausecit doesnt ease in. Its just not there one minute and blam! Massive the next. Is there a way to graduate it in size manually over a few layers in cura?
  16. Hi yes im giving that a go now, but all it appears to do is move the sudden skin higher up the slant. I was after a slow incremental increase option? If there is one. Its the sudden increase in time that causes the layer line. The top skin is just not there one minute and massive the next layer. It needs to be graduated in for better overall layer quality! Ill see how this one goes....no luck I always get this weird line from the topskin regardless and its only because of the sudden different in time from one layer to the next. If it was gradual the line simply wouldnt be there.
  17. Thanks for the tip anyway. At least i know what the setting is called. It should really be graduated into the size it becomes. Hopefully cura will fix this? Eventually. Lol. Its even there after light sanding.
  18. Hi yes im giving that a go now, but all it appears to do is move the sudden skin higher up the slant. I was after a slow incremental increase option? If there is one. Its the sudden increase in time that causes the layer line. The top skin is just not there one minute and massive the next layer. It needs to be graduated in for better overall layer quality! Ill see how this one goes....
  19. Hi folks, Not sure if anyone has noticed, that when I print pretty much anything hollow that has a spherical or curved top, the abrupt internal layer arrival towards the top drastically increasing time for the next layers ending in ruining the perfect surface. Its such a pity, can anything be done about a gradual wall building up slowly to prevent the sudden additional cooling time. I've noticed this for a while now, it affects me more as I tend to print in 0.06 so those printing in .01 layers warp less.
  20. thanks @kris2020. Happy to help! Lots more to come...
  21. Thats too complicated for me. Id rather just have an option to not print the bottom layer touching the build plate or else ill just leave it. Escpecially as im short on time and am using both new firmware and software for the first time. Ive no time fiddle and mess about unfortunately. I will have to try that stuff once i have time to fail.
  22. Cheers! yes that what i thought. I got an extra day tonprint now so i can relax a bit! Thanks @ahoeben
  23. Yes just the bottom thickness! Im assuming that wont change the bottom layers as with the old cura and jusy the 1 bottom layer? Not the bottom layers, as i see a setting fot that too? I hope so. Im going to print the base at .2mm as it has no details and just filler up the holes. Or 0.1mm. No point in 0.06 for that part which I need to priny seperately anyway! Thanks for the help @P3D and @geert_2. ....and im too lazy to hollow out lol. I have no time for that. Because i may print in different sizes and id need to constantly keep changing the thickness that way! Thank
  • Create New...