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cloakfiend

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Posts posted by cloakfiend

  1. Ah thanks for the info. I just tend to knock out tests quickly and cant be bothered to merge or create booleans as text in a box shouldnt be too challenging to print from historical attempts. I have an issue with stuff that alters way it did to previous versions unless its better  and this definitely isnt. So rather than waste time trying to solve a problem in didnt have in any previous version ill practice what i preach and just use the older version which i have no issue with other than interface problems.

  2. 51 minutes ago, ungutknut said:

    Are you 100% sure your model is watertight? I can have a look at it if you find a way to upload it somewhere.

     

    Yep its simply two extruded objects one inside the other. It appears (its fact) that cura 3.4 has no issues which is why i believe cura 4.4 is the problem.

    I already prited it from 3.4 wont 'upgrade' until this issue is sorted for obvious reasons, as i often use intersecting geometry.

  3. Just curious but does the new cura still have this issue? I'm using 4.4.1 but have now reverted back to 3.4.9.9 for obvious reasons. Top 4.4.1, bottom is 3.4.9.9 I guess ill uninstall 4.4 1 either way as I can't trust it anymore.

     

     

     

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  4. Sorry i think this is in the wrong section!! how can i delete this post? and move it into coffee corner perhaps?

    Hi, 

    I got a Kaiser rostrum for photographing my prints, but i have no idea how to connect it to my wall, can i just rewire it to a regular socket? i have no idea what the colours are, line cables? its a old german plug.

    pics attached, i know the earth obvioulsy, but grey black and brown? no clue, im thinking greay is the actuator, and brown is live, and black i neutral but thats a blind guess. i rad there are line live neutral cables, what is a line 1 2 or 3 i have zero wiring experience?

     

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

     

     

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  5. 48 minutes ago, fbrc8-erin said:

    Good functional print!

    Its the only print im going to use everyday until a renovation! A true essential print! Only others i can think of would be taps, keys, knobs (lol) handles or light switches. Im sure there are many other personal ones but this truly made me appreciate having an ultimaker! Quicker than Amazon! 

    • Like 1
  6. Well not used ultimakers tough pla for a while. But i like it! It has a very smooth top surface. My toilet handle broke the internal ceramic holder after many years and because all hardware shops are closed....had no choice works like a charm! Made it a bit thicker just in case and forgot to taper it. But as i printed it solid i just sawed the end off. Job done! No acetone or sanding here. Solid as a rock!

     

     

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    • Like 2
  7. Close ups.... you know I love my close ups!

    Dr Hill from Re-Animator is the only filled model here hence not splitting further. Im pretty sure in fill would help as well. I talked with a few folk and some use modge podge as i use plaster of paris. Might be better but definitely more expensive!!!

     

    These splits can easily be filled with paint or putty. However I wouldn't use putty on detailed parts as its a nightmare to clean up.

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  8. Im gonna paint these, im pretty sure they werent split that bad? But the hollow ones are. If you leave your acetoned model hollow and its not translucent colourfabb and exposed to heat frequently or in direct sunlight, then it will most likely split. If its filled or printed with transparent colorfabb it wont, or is way less likely.

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  9. Adding heat to an acetoned model does nothing but heat it up making it flexible by superheating the trapped air and by simply being acetoned. The acetone alters the state of pla to something else and hardens later irrespective of heat. Someone mentioned dishwasher liquid to stop the reaction but seeing as the acetone has already penetrated deep into the acetone i think theres little chance of that as dishwasher liquid does not penetrate pla. 

    I must stress to all those new to this thread that this was a completely failed model with multiple reprinted areas and im simply continuing with it as i continue to experiment with various paints and primers. Ill stick to tamiya for light primer i think. Far more durable than vallejo, but their mecha black is fine.

    Also i ran out of nitrile gloves recently surprise surprise, but temporarily got powder coated ones. And they suck. They react to the tamiya putty and cause the putty to melt making it much harder if not impossible to apply with a finger. Cant wait for my regular blues to arrive! Im going to do another acetone video soon.... this thread has many broken links as the accounts i used historically have expired.

  10. I tried sanding a few areas on the face after attempting to fill a few cracks with putty. Turns out this primer doesnt sand well and just peels horribly when combined with putty and i was lazy and tried too soon. Just ended up using acetone to 'wash' everything off. Im slowly getting tired of this.. lol. I now regret not just printing another! Eitherway I've learnt a lot on the way! I guess it pays in the long run to get everything perfect before painting. I just got impatient as usual. Lol.

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    • Like 1
  11. Here we go again lol. This is my last time fixing it. Whatever it is after it will remain. I should have stuck to tamiya rattle can primer. It dries rock solid and sand well. This valejo mecha white primer is a tad rubbery when dry and hence sands awfully. I slapped on one more coat of tamiya putty to fill the sanded holes. Ill leave it overnight to set hard and sand paint and move on to the next model. I really enyoyed sculpting this one. I may print the full version another time as I did the complete body.

     

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  12. Also just a note but you only really need two shades of grey to get that weird effect. Here it was the tamiya putty and tamiya primer combo which worked nicely. Maybe ill just try doing a whole model like that?

    Im now using lockdown time to try and finish off a bunch of models. Never thought id see a pandemic in my lifetime.

  13. The issue is not layer lines so much (even though the zscrew was dirty when i printed this hence the bad layers), its more heat warped splits. They warp the the plastic outwards at the crack. Like a volcano. So the area to be fixed is like 20 times the width of a crack..... i also did your heat curing acetone by slapping acetone on some objects and popong them in front of a 30degrees fireplace and then directly above it. To interesting results. The acetone may have evaporated which makes to model sandable but the vapours or air trapped inside superheats and results in it becoming extremely soft and bendy. Also the flat base of a hollow object almost instantly starts expanding out. Interesting results. Not sure if it will split later. Who knows!

     

    https://youtu.be/FNOnrXe1O4w

     

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  14. Well I finally got round to painting, but as i thought. The warped splits are still visible after painting. Im gonna have to sand n fill and sand for like the 5th time. Im gonna only focus on the worst areas as I just wanna finish it. I could have saved myself the trouble had i just printef it again. This model has a glued arm and hand but holds firm. I plan on glossing it up and using gold leaf for the hair. Done. Also painted the hello kitty, lol.

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  15. I do this type of thing for printing on fabric a lot and even sub mililmeter. Your mesh is the issue, or intersecting geometry. A simple extrude always seems to work for me, even if its awful from a polygon distribution side of things. Also make sure all your polys/Elements are closed.

     

    Make sure to draw it yourself and don't use illustrators convert to vectors or anything like that. 

     

    Try make it thicker and see what happens you may see something in the mesh, and don't forget you can z scale it in cura later anyway as there is no Z detail only X and Y. Just an idea, good luck either way!

  16. Hi all again. Just thought id add that if you use 1% infil it helps a quite bit. But not perfect.

     

    Still needs to be eased in in cura in my honest opinion. Anything else is a ball ache. And it would mean perfect printing. Currently top curved hollow surfaces all suffer, and if you have any detail in them you wont be able to sand it out. 

     

     

     

     

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  17. That all sounds great but cura should always ease in massive differences in print time per layer as i print many things most hollow some not. But i tend to design on the fly. So basically i always get the below lines near the top of the curved surface its just a pity because this could be fixed with easing the skin in thats all. Instead i have a ton more zen sanding to do. Lol

    Various settings to no real removal of the visible line.

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  18. Reimporting the same model sounds long. And then doing all that box stuff. That top skin needs to be programmed to ease in oversay 5 or 6 layers. Maybe more. Its the only thing wrong with cura at the moment. It means you will never be able to print a perfect hugh res semi sphere without using filler. Which is exactly what i needed to. Make a sphere fron two semis. 0.06 has many benefits to lower reses and i think its neglected in cura. Everyone seems to love 0.1? 0.06 was the sole reason i bought one back in the day. I alread have 3 wall. I dont want mess around with 4 or 5 to fix an issue that shoukdnt be there. 

  19. Hi yes im giving that a go now, but all it appears to do is move the sudden skin higher up the slant. I was after a slow incremental increase option? If there is one. Its the sudden increase in time that causes the layer line. The top skin is just not there one minute and massive the next layer. It needs to be graduated in for better overall layer quality! Ill see how this one goes....no luck

    I always get this weird line from the topskin regardless and its only because of the sudden different in time from one layer to the next. If it was gradual the line simply wouldnt be there.

     

    ...and I pretty much only print 0.06. Um2 and s5. This is my only issue!

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