cloakfiend

I do this type of thing for printing on fabric a lot and even sub mililmeter. Your mesh is the issue, or intersecting geometry. A simple extrude always seems to work for me, even if its awful from a polygon distribution side of things. Also make sure all your polys/Elements are closed. Make sure to draw it yourself and don't use illustrators convert to vectors or anything like that. Try make it thicker and see what happens you may see something in the mesh, and don't forget you can z scale it in cura later anyway as there is no Z detail only X and Y. Just an idea, good luck either way!

I love it too! Lol

And painted...

Hi all again. Just thought id add that if you use 1% infil it helps a quite bit. But not perfect. Still needs to be eased in in cura in my honest opinion. Anything else is a ball ache. And it would mean perfect printing. Currently top curved hollow surfaces all suffer, and if you have any detail in them you wont be able to sand it out.

That all sounds great but cura should always ease in massive differences in print time per layer as i print many things most hollow some not. But i tend to design on the fly. So basically i always get the below lines near the top of the curved surface its just a pity because this could be fixed with easing the skin in thats all. Instead i have a ton more zen sanding to do. Lol Various settings to no real removal of the visible line.

Reimporting the same model sounds long. And then doing all that box stuff. That top skin needs to be programmed to ease in oversay 5 or 6 layers. Maybe more. Its the only thing wrong with cura at the moment. It means you will never be able to print a perfect hugh res semi sphere without using filler. Which is exactly what i needed to. Make a sphere fron two semis. 0.06 has many benefits to lower reses and i think its neglected in cura. Everyone seems to love 0.1? 0.06 was the sole reason i bought one back in the day. I alread have 3 wall. I dont want mess around with 4 or 5 to fix an issue that shoukdnt be there.

Hi @eldrick thanks for the info! could you elaborate on the 'Adaptive layers' setting how it works and what i'd need to set to make the top skin ease in instead of simply arriving on one layer. It would make my cute kitten models much easier to post process!! Thanks.

The topskin produces much cleaner tops with it than without it, so having the topspin is needed, but its a shame it doesn't ease in from one layer to the next as this would fix the visible line on the surface. Its not a matter of layer height, thats entirely unrelated. its a matter of layer time taken from one layer to the next.

This really should be looked at. It means there is always a visible line the moment the top skin kicks in becausecit doesnt ease in. Its just not there one minute and blam! Massive the next. Is there a way to graduate it in size manually over a few layers in cura?

Hi yes im giving that a go now, but all it appears to do is move the sudden skin higher up the slant. I was after a slow incremental increase option? If there is one. Its the sudden increase in time that causes the layer line. The top skin is just not there one minute and massive the next layer. It needs to be graduated in for better overall layer quality! Ill see how this one goes....no luck I always get this weird line from the topskin regardless and its only because of the sudden different in time from one layer to the next. If it was gradual the line simply wouldnt be there. ...and I pretty much only print 0.06. Um2 and s5. This is my only issue!

Thanks for the tip anyway. At least i know what the setting is called. It should really be graduated into the size it becomes. Hopefully cura will fix this? Eventually. Lol. Its even there after light sanding.

Hi yes im giving that a go now, but all it appears to do is move the sudden skin higher up the slant. I was after a slow incremental increase option? If there is one. Its the sudden increase in time that causes the layer line. The top skin is just not there one minute and massive the next layer. It needs to be graduated in for better overall layer quality! Ill see how this one goes....

Hi folks, Not sure if anyone has noticed, that when I print pretty much anything hollow that has a spherical or curved top, the abrupt internal layer arrival towards the top drastically increasing time for the next layers ending in ruining the perfect surface. Its such a pity, can anything be done about a gradual wall building up slowly to prevent the sudden additional cooling time. I've noticed this for a while now, it affects me more as I tend to print in 0.06 so those printing in .01 layers warp less.

thanks @kris2020. Happy to help! Lots more to come...

Thats too complicated for me. Id rather just have an option to not print the bottom layer touching the build plate or else ill just leave it. Escpecially as im short on time and am using both new firmware and software for the first time. Ive no time fiddle and mess about unfortunately. I will have to try that stuff once i have time to fail.

Cheers! yes that what i thought. I got an extra day tonprint now so i can relax a bit! Thanks @ahoeben

Yes just the bottom thickness! Im assuming that wont change the bottom layers as with the old cura and jusy the 1 bottom layer? Not the bottom layers, as i see a setting fot that too? I hope so. Im going to print the base at .2mm as it has no details and just filler up the holes. Or 0.1mm. No point in 0.06 for that part which I need to priny seperately anyway! Thanks for the help @P3D and @geert_2. ....and im too lazy to hollow out lol. I have no time for that. Because i may print in different sizes and id need to constantly keep changing the thickness that way! Thanks again. Hope it works!

Ill just leave it then i have no time to experiment with settings and dont want any nasty surprises! Lol i've have my share of those lately! ...and spliting the model in three means three base layers!! Exactly what im trying to avoid in the first place!

Lol i meant the base layer of the trophy lol. Im already printing it in two halves. Its too tall as it is and im printing the base on my um2 at the same time. I guess just looking at it againt the top half wont be so bad but the very bottom is big See pic.

Yes im printing a large trophy with a large base that gets narrower as it goes up so waiting for hours for a base that inwill add to later anyways would be a monumental waste of time for me. Especially at 0.06 layer height! I want a print without base setting ideally.

Unfortunately, No, because all that does is print the initial layer (line) at a the selected height. usually i put like 0.1 or something....i would like to put 1.2. But im not sure how that would work as its a bit thick for a single layer considering im printing at 0.06? I was morethinking about if it was possible to print without a base layer yet? And just from the walls? Skipping the time filling in the base. It would save me about 2-3 hrs. I.e. hollow with no base.so when you take it off its hollow and you can see the inside. If that makes sense? One of the devs said it would be possible to replace it with an infill amount when i brought it up ages ago but not sure if it was actually implemented....eitherway i have a touch more modelling to do before i print my object.

Hi folks, im about to print something with a large base but dont want to wait like 3 hours for all 17 layers as im printing in 0.06, and was wandering if there is a setting to somehow tell thecprinter to only print one layer for the initial layer at say 0.1mm but the rest at 0.06? If so could someone show me how. Ill admit i havent even looked into the settings of cura 4.4 yet but im in a hurry to print something thats gonna take a while and im in bed now and just thought of it! Thank you to anyone in advance if you help me. I hope there is a way!! Sorry to beg!! As always I'm short on time to print.

https://www.engadget.com/2020/02/13/3d-print-whole-objects-seconds-resin/ Thats cool insane! Lol those crazy science folks!!. Bet it costs a lot. I remember hearing about that other one that printed in minutes. Lol. An nothing since! Still has limitations of resin. They need to do this with colorfabb pla pha!

Yes, lol, sanding is fine, but waiting for newly applied filler is a real ball-ache. I just got into the habit of sanding before acetoning because it saves so much time in post. I can simply give a model a once over in a few minutes with 240 grit a brush on acetone job and done! The art of sanding is to leave as little to sand as possible. When you slap filler on or have like massive areas to smooth just use a burr tool on a dremmel. They are my new best friend. I have loads and they are cheap as chips and last ages. From 1mm delicate ones to massive fat ones. the smaller the burr the more likely to melt and make smoothing possible. Theres an art to using them. And tons of different shapes for those impissible to sand areas! They will save you hours of time!! Dont even waste youre time trying to hand sand out huge uneven areas! Im now working on something really amazing for my models, but as usual i'm completely new to it and it involves tons of crazy sounding chemicals ive never heard of and powder coatings and....electricity!!! Expensive mind you! Im getting help from some scientists on this one!! Lol. I'm gonna need it, just not enough info on google atm!

I kinda like the grey bits. But i dont like other bits. It looks like that purely due to the many layers of tamiya filler over time. And the filler itself is drying out hence looking different colours. Its a ton of sanding work which i dont mindcso much anymore but my quest to smooth finishes means im for ever correcting areas here and there resulting in those weird patterns. It was perfect and entirely white just a few months ago. And looked similar back then when i painted it. If you are after that look its not hard to acheive just takes time because you constantlyhave to wait for the previous layers to dry....and thats the most irritating part. I found a quick setting putty (for drains) which sets in minutes but nothing as fine and smooth as tamiya. If you have subtle splits in your model I would highly reccomend it. They doa white one I think a well for extra fine but ive not tried it the grey is fine to me. Also for those new to sanding and watching all those videos showing people going through like 10 grades of grit before acheiving a smooth surface, its not neccesary with pla after acetoning. I use 2 max maybe 3 if its real ruff. 120 for the rough spots if you got any. If just small bumps, 240 will be fine pre acetoning otherwise a bit of a once over with 400 is fine (more than enough for most if your gonna be painting!). But you need to make sure the acetone has dried out or else your gonna have a hard time sanding acetone soaked pla/pha. Its weird in that soft state. But more flexible. After it dries moisturise it if you are worried about it drying out and when it absorbs the moisture and is touch dry then treat it as normal pla again. Paint it sand it whatever.