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cloakfiend

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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. Just wondering but how come when i set the um2 nozzle to .35 just like my s5 the line wont draw. Here is the same model same size but one has my manual support the other doesnt? Anything ive missed? Just curious.
  2. Another thing is fire places and sources of intense heat or constant heat will affect the models a lot. The acetone tends to dry them out and intense heat even further causing rapid splitting. Also heating up a closed hollow model after acetonig can cause the model to inflate as acetone reaction seals the model from moisture... once you know how it reacts you can pre determine how to do things.
  3. Yes indeed. Acetone goes deep. Deeper than Eddie Murphy going undercover in Bevery Hills Cop. It can also shrink. A lot! Ive done many tests on this. Its why you need to be very careful with exposure times and why brushing is less prone to warping than dipping which can play havok with hollow models.
  4. Sprayed....its so tempting to just lather the entire thing in primer but if you wanna keep all the details you have to resist temptation!
  5. Sprayed...primer. heavy coat. Tamiya fine primer...lame photo.
  6. Ive been ultra busy lately but here is mr cathulhu with a rattle can primer. Airbrush was not available. Printed 2 if these, i always end up trying to fix things and keep finding new things ti change, but overall im real happy. One is gonna be green and pink and the other pink and green.
  7. Just thought Id add that I used mr dissolved putty for the rocky underneath area where support was awkward toremove and clean up which i couldn't be bothered doing for a test print. It does a great job of filling in holes and areas leaving them much smoother to undercoat later. Saves on sanding! Great for filling in random bits and bobs and smoothing surfaces. Smells like nail varnish. take a bit of time to set, but its kinda like acetone you can rub it by hand and sand it later when fully cured. I seem to have a use for many random products. anything to save time sanding of course! To st
  8. My scan of gaudys bust from one of the attractions on my visit to spain earlier in the year. Came out ok. Did it a while back. Shame i overdid the acetone and the base warped a bit on the sides. My fault entirely.
  9. Yes the wings are very thin. About .4-.6mm so they mimic the real thing because the light gets through. Unfortunately I had one bad layer so i just acetoned all of it. I need to remake onecwing anyway so ill print the next one in tr green and just avoid the wing membrane when acetoning.
  10. My now old attempt at a sculpt of herbert west from reanimator. Glasses will come later. They are very thin i want to thicken them. Post acetone.
  11. My take on the pusheen burger kitty meme.
  12. Just acetoned him and cut his wings out using a hot knife. Starting to look good now, just needs painting! One wing is bigger than the other and it annoys a but be but I was trying hard to have it in the same pose as the meme I used as inspiration.
  13. Heres my Cathulhu model. Came out great considering it was full of intersecting geometry. I realised that if i have unassigned polygroups on an object and bring them into MAX then it creates seperate elements within the object that arent joined geometrically to the model yet still a part of it. Cura doesnt like this. At all. I keep forgetting to reassign my elements after editing them! Oh well. it works and thats all that counts! Well done cura! Ill post more pics as it complete it. Its a bit impossible to see whats going on at the moment. The wings are using my classic bespoke support because
  14. Nice, my drawings also take ages because they are shaded by pressing the pen very lightly and one mistake and its all ruined. I like that ethic. no errors. its how I like things to go, lol. 3D sculpting is exactly like drawing for me, its just you need to find a brush that suits your style, i found the square build up brush served me well because it gave hard edges and make massive changes. Great for sihouetting forms out. but theres no escaping tedious parts as well. I had to learn how to sculpt tentacles and wings for my latest project. I went the wrong way about it but im sure ill make an o
  15. Thanks Kman. and as if by a stroke of luck my model with all those intersecting verts actually printed! Im gonna try to do something arty with him because its fiction, but I still have my reanimator model that need realistic painting! gonna be fun, also still have my burger cat to paint as well!!! that ones gonna be fun!! Great that you are feeling better and drawing is nice to do! I love biro art, but not tried the booth style. I just crosshatch very finely. Im still amazed at the amount of detail in this, just so much to look at! and the books are perfect in shape and colour too! M
  16. ...and your hand eye co-ord is defo looking looking on the mend to me! I got a lot of catching up to do! Im visiting HP Lovecraft material for my next prints! Keep up the massive inspiring good work! CF
  17. Damn you work your printers hard!!. Damn good work too!! well done, I'm trying to paint my new stuff, shouldhave a few things to show soon! Mine have it easy lately! I've been having major problems lately due to tons of rats nests (intersecting verts!), 720 of them!! Had to go back to zbrush to cut them all out! am printing now, but i know it will fail again, just didnt know why before! my s5 print head just parks itself on the right hand side middle area and jitters there. I kinda prefered the out of print area window as this new thing just stops the print but still says its
  18. Im glad you kept the white colour though. It means it can live in my mums kitchen without her being to bothered about it!. Black would be a no no for the kitchen
  19. Lol, i was just bored and felt like offerring a design suggestion/direction for the brand logo...which wasnt asked for btw lol. ...but surely you noticed theres no more robot on the side. My s5 has a robot. The one on the picture doesn't.
  20. I'm torn about the font choice for Ultimaker though. I get the symmetrical U as a logo but the rest? hmm. I kinda prefer the other font it appeared more clean, new one seems just like a basic typed out font from dafont or some free site. Legal issue? whatever. minor quarm. Please change it back, you can leave the U if you like. Eurostile is a fav of mine, lolz.
  21. Ahh until i got the s5 i never had two extruders so i guess i never encountered those issues! lucky for me! I guess being late to the game wasnt so bad then! Now to master .06 pva....
  22. I never used s3d. Only cura. Never had any issues. Cura always gave me great results.
  23. Regarding pla smoothing with acetone. Im not sure about the pla being cheap or not. But it needs specific additives in it which enables it to smooth and more importantly you need to print higher rez, i usually go for 0.06. I know you may think print times may be too long but I can guarantee you that you make up time in post and you dont need filler. That picture frame thing above would be easier to slap filler and sand, unlike other complex geometry. You also need to be able to sand without leaving marks as well, again sanding acetoned pla is easier than sanding filler in my opinion. I use var
  24. I don't need the filters and spool thing. I just need the printer itself. I still use my UM2 from time to time, but the S5 just makes my life easier and less hassle. I click a button and as long as theres material on the spool I'm good to go. Im satisfied with the quality if i print slower and smarter. I simply cant justify an SLS printer ATM. I'd like to print some rubber wheels for fun but cant see myself getting an SLA just for fun. I waste enough money on chems as it is! FDM printers can be justified for fun. I've just found ultimakers to deliver faster and consistently superior quality to
  25. Resin Printing is a whole new ball game. and you don't have anywhere near the materials to play with....just resin. It shatters. it still needs post production and a lot more of it. However I cant say too much seeing as I've never used it but I can say it will cost you a lot more in the long run from what I've read. From what I understand unless someone corrects me, Its nice for display purposes, but thats it. PLA/ PHA with acetone and a bespoke manual support system gives me results that pretty much match resin even for small details like fingers so I don't really care much for resin at
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