cloakfiend

Im pretty sure the box would go red in cura and tell you youre settings may not work. It did with me and i was trying 0.3, so at 0.6, forget it. At least at 210 with a 0.4 nozzle.

I only use obj, but i assume any 3d program can import it? I can import it into max or maya and re export an stl if you like? ...and yeah i got a um2 after all, glad the new improvements are minor on the um2+ or else i would feel a bit annoyed, i have no real issues with the feeder as it is because i only ûse colorfabb and when it clicks is a good indicator of the nozzle being slightly blocked. besides im too afraîd of taking it apart just to replace unbroken parts when its printing just fie as it is.

Im just afer a smooth surface with little to no effort, and thats something i just cant acheive with 0.1. I could when UM had the best filaments, but now they are useless to me from a smoothing point of view. I treat UM filament as scrap now. I only use colorfabb at the moment, but am curious to find another brand that smooths and prints just as good. I never got any breaks with the old um filament, and under extrusion was also less for me, resulting in much cleaner models.

Yeah maybe my .2 layer temps are a bit high but i dont usually print like that so i have little experience in that area. 0.06 is my domain, 0.04 too, but overhange sucks balls at that resolution with the 0.4 nozzle.

and another memento scan from a while ago i never got round to print... in um tr green, its a bit brittle compared to the um blue i loved so much, but whatever its discontinued and the only filament i have left lol.

lol its all good, i just use the back of my scalpel to prize it off now, i gave up using my fingers after one or two times and a split finger nail. will you be able to buy the new fan shroud/quieter fans and extruder to essentially get the same thing as the +?

heres more of that spaceship i started earlier, im not going to repair or print it again due to the ton of geometry intersections so thought id just print the rest and see if it survives acetoning due to thin walls and tiny details that are likely to warp.... still got the spikey things on the front to do, a few guns as well if i can be bothered.

I'm surprised they left those nasty metal clips on the glass, thats my least favourite thing about that machine. I hope support for the um 2 remains, or should i buy spares now, lol? Not too much changed then. I got mine a month ago, can i swap it? Knew this would happen, lol.

So whats the improvements?...to save me time analyzing it.

i print at 0.06 and never lower res, due to the lines. 0.1 and lower is for speed and prototyping only. something i did not buy this printer for. the main thing i like about this,printer is that i only need filament and nothing else, maybe some acetone but thats about it. i understand there are aditional cost with the sla which puts me off it. in have no space for all the extra tanks to cure and stuff. and as for the layers being almost invisible, i thought that too about high res fdm prints......until, i spray painted them. paint brings out any imperfections, and i like things as close to perfect as i can get, but for 800$ i might get one just to play around, but im not that great at modelling yet, so the speed is not an issue yet as i simply cant produce that many things to print atm, maybe later. i have not seen many solid smooth surfaces on sla printers, only pointlessly extremely complex geometric shapes. and this tends to hide the lines. i also have not seen any ultra close ups. i would like to see a perfect sphere raw off the printer in a close up lit in a way to show the bad parts, rather than to hide them.

Thanks for the info, It says layer height it 0.1? Thats not too great? Im sure i would see the lines thats all i look for these days, i may consider it if if went to 0.025 but at 0.1 no way.

Learn how to do proper atomic pulls and do a lot of them. Problem solved. The reason you are cranking temps up too high, (230) for 0.06 for example is that you have a slow jam. Its only a matter of time before you get complete faliure imho. For 0.06 i use 185 degrees @30. Thats almost 50 degrees higher! I use 230 for 0.2 layer height at 50mm/s Again as i have said before, do A LOT (like 30-40) of them and keep going even after they appear clean just to be sure. This is a common problem dont worry, i also learnt the hard way. Your printer is fine.

i use 15.04.2 so i dont know. i dont have any problems with this version, so i see no need to use a different one until they sort out support material issues out.

just found a roll of oldskool transparent green UM pla. soooo nice i almost forgot how good original ultimaker filament was. you guys should really switch back to your old manufacturing recipe, as it smooths so much nicer too. even better than colorfabb in half the time. One can always dream i guess. heres a face i had on the card. before and after acetone. ill spray it next, great for overhangs too, seems to harden faster too. if UM makes its filaments like it used to just over a year ago, ill tell you what paints i use lol.

What sla printers did you get, the form 2? As i heard the form 1 had quite a high failure rate. While i love quality of sla, I still think fdm is great for the price, and from experience using a machine night and day for over a year non stop, I had hassle free printing with great results (depending on the object of course). Can you get perfectly smooth spheres on an sla, or line free prints with no post work? I have seen a few rings and such printed on one but was not sure what had been done to it to look as it did. Also filament costs are dirt cheap, and all you need to print with. No extras. Maybe a new pfte every now and then, lol.

Very slow lol, i gave up after 20mins. Mind you my model was a free crap off the net.

Lol, i was looking in all the menus, never though of right clicking! Its hung for a while so ill give it a bit before i give up and do it properly in a 3d app. I guess it either takes ages or doesnt like complicated geometry. Not good in a hurry, lol.

Just out of curiosity, i have never seen any split option? Where is it . I have a model i want to split real quick that wont load into maya, and im on my tablet which i hate using for anything other than drawing or sculpting. They need to invent a pen with a scroll wheel. Ill try some other splitting programmes in the meantime.

Just like remote printing, I also think dual colour printing is a waste of time at the moment as far as im concerned, and if you are savy with your 3d apps and illustrator then for simpler designs like lettering you can just make holes to slot the other colours in, ive done it many times, its not that difficult, just takes a few trial and errors. An improvement in surface quality and a soultion to overhangs and poor support material distribution are far more important than dual extrusion. I already figured out a way of getting cura to only put its support material where i want it and thats saved me a lot of pointless cleanup on overhangs that didnt need support and would just waste time and filament.

Cheers, i didnt model it, it was just a variant of the regular one on thingverse, wanted to make a steam punk copper version, should look pretty cool after.

ok lastest casual mess abouts, trying more geometric stuff lately while i sleep. but the printer keeps me awake even when its a floor beneath me. its gonna have to undergo silencing somehow extra carpets or something, its just so damn quiet in the house i can hear everything even though its a muffled water pipes kinda noise. i'm also hearing weird clicking during retraction that is bothering me as my works um2 didnt make those sounds...we'll see. the octopus had tons of retractions on the 8 legs which i printed seven sections of. i am not printing that again. id rather print one and just cast more from it, i feel i just hurt my printer doing non stop retractions for ten hours straight. wanted to acetone this one as well, but seeing as i didnt model it it wasnt designed for 3d printing and just got it from somwhere random during my bored searches it was full of intersecting geometry which i just couldnt be bothered fixing as i was in a rush. my advice is don't rush the modelling / fixing / cleaning up stage. i never really bother checking it in cura as i know what works by now, i was just hoping lol. it'll be fine second time around, overhangs suck though, but not as much as support material which i just don't use anymore.

Get more glass, or get an air duster and hold it upsidedown and spray it at the edges of the model and lightly pull at it so the cold spray leaks/goes underneath of the model. I used to do this all the time as i had super tight deadlines and couldnt wait for the model too cool. but it ruins the glue a bit due to liquifying it. If you dont mind reapplying the glue id do it this way. Or just get a scraper and use the sharp edges to pop it off, if done right you wont damage the model. Just be carful as dont forget you model will bend irreversebly very easily if you pull at a thin point as it is still warm just after printing finishes.

Merry Christmas folks, have a good one!!!

Possibly, im very busy at the moment, but ill let you know i need to sort myself out first. forgot to mention that it was going to be at fablab london, but nothing was confirmed.

Cheers mate youre welcome. I planned on doing one final lecture on it at fablab, but stuff came up, so ill end up doing that at some point next year. And as for my split model, its not only the acetone that is the problem, but the industrial paints im using. They contain weird toxic chemicals that pla does not like. It the drying part that causes the problems. The quicker the paint dries the better. The above paint took 2 days to cure which was the splitting problem. And i slapped a patina to boot! And ive no problem using dirty acetone as most of the colouring and crap sinks to the bottom after a while. Basically the more acetone you use the better (not for your health though, lol), but too much and your model will split. You need to figure out a sweet spot. Dont skimp out on acetone.