cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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My various paint tests.
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For pla, acetone all the way. But you need to find the right brand that mixes it with reactable stuff.
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Yeah I got those notifications that pointed to nothing new too as well, thought all that was over with????
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I've been messing around with copper paint a lot here is a test job! probably the most detailed thing i have floating around at the mo. need to do a kit job soon, getting back into painting models!
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Nice paint job!
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Just curious i've not used youmagine to up anything, but just put up a model, and when i search for it nothing shows? that doesnt seem right? does it need time to update or something? If i cant even find my model, how is anyone else supposed to?
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I found that applying the ABS paste was effective almost all of the time when i applied it to the glass cold, if i applied it even when the glass was still warm from being used earlier or from previous cleaning the ABS would rise up from time to time.
If you do use abs juice, make sure you use enough keeping it as thin as you can at the same time so you can get it off easy. cleaning is also easy, as you only need washing up liquid to melt ABS off the glass afterwards. Its very easy to clean.
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More acetone photos of Dark green PLA. Did not remove the lines and stay green.
Went totally white and not particularly smooth either, but maybe as i didnt want to get th base warped i may have held it under for too ling. but eitherway its getting painted now, as it still did enough smoothing to paint.
and some painted sutff too....
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I print everything at 35mm/s no infill and at 0.06 layer height. Shell 1.2 and support everywhere and use colorfabb PLA. But feel free to do the best for what works for you. All prints need a bit of love (a bit of a sand)under the overhangs but then a quick acetone dip and they are ready to paint. I dont think people realize how important it is to acetone dip your stuff. If you dont, then forget about painting it in my opinion, unless the paint you are using is mega thick.
Get the model looking as good as you possibly can before you paint it, escpecially if you are going to give it a glossy or reflective coat.
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You can still print multiple objects but you have to combine them first in your favourite 3d program. Then cura treats it as one object.
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Thanks! Thats great news, i guess i was being paranoid and thought it was the dark blue. Happy printing!
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Hi Cloakfiend, if you have to run .200 at 50mm/s with a temp of 230 then you have a have a fault with your printer, or a setting wrong. I can run .300 at 60mm/s with 220 max, from memory I think probably 215 with most filaments. If you search the net you will find that manufacturers give a PLA temp range and I think none exceed 220c.
Oh and a lot of us seek perfection rather than average which is why we change our settings e.g. try getting a decent overhang with a speed of 50mm/s
Sorry for getting back late on this, but UM PLA states 190-260 for the Temps. And even if there is something wrong with my printer, i dont mind, as long as i keep getting perfect layer height.
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Just surious but i really like the UM Blue PLA filament and the dark green one is good too, but am running out now, someone told me it was discontinued, I just thought i'd ask, and if it is unavailable, what is the closest i can get to that filament, as is reacts beautifully with acetone and i need it to get smooth parts?
These are my spools.
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Yes, Sure, experimenting with metal coating can give you such awesome looks that you just cant print. It takes a tiny bit of effort and a bit of waiting, but is well worth it.
Its basically a base of either varnish, resign or casting material that you mix the metal powder in, and then paint it on your model, and after its hardened, you darken it with ink, so that when that dried, you lightly sand the highlights and it looks instantly cool.
Also because its real metal you are using, and not just some metallic paint, you can add patina aging acids to it and it will rust or corrode leaving either blue or greeen rust for copper and the orange rust for iron.
Here is my lastest attempt, i actually bought a metal paint from the US for this, but found it very hard to paint with and uneven, and i had to mix a hardener and catalyst and weight them out, and wasn't sure if my scale was correct, so not sure all in all, but im sure after i treat them they will look cool.
But after some washes and sanding will hhopefully look something like the picture below... but different as i mixed the paints for this old model, and it was layed on thick. Theses new models should have much more detail.
Just used a regular big house painting brush to lay on the paint, nothing fancy.
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Most parts dont need any infill, I print at 35mm/s for 0.06 and 50mm/s for 0.1. These are good speeds in my opinion.
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@wattsekunde support doesn't generate if you close your model, so model it hollow (i.e. with a shell) or punch a hole in it somewhere during the modelling stage, then tick the support everywhere option. otherwise it will just print a hollow model without the support inside.
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I agree the old CURA infill was better, but seeing as i never use infill anymore, i dont mind. I just tick support material, and it kinda serves the same purpose but uses less material and is great for what i need.
@yellowshark, i also seek perfection (and achieve it to some extend), but my perfection comes after some post work and painting (not very much BTW). And I personally hate the plastic look finishes now, everything looks the same in plastic, at least with faux metal effects and other experimentation nothing ever looks the same.
An unpainted model to me is an unfinished model (like a statue or something not engineering related). Like buying an air-fix model and not painting it. Or designing a 3D model and not texturing it, or anything. It looks like a toy, i just want it to look amazing. Even though it is simply amazing for being made the way it was anyway, and for even existing.
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Maybe try not having such fine detail if you dont know how it will look, slowly scale things down and see how much detail you can keep rather than just trying tiny things out. some things scale down well, some things need to be built with your printing in mind. I generally only print with 1.2 shell and have no real issues. if you send me your model i'll print it at 1.2 just to see how it looks.
I now kind of know my limits, and just work within those boundaries. I used to have 0.8mm shell with infill but found it was too thin, especially for my acetone dips. Now i do 1.2 with no infill.
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OK just thought I would show you what the t-rex cracking looked like, in case thats a look youre going for?
This is a result of over acetone dipping. These were dipped then dried then dipped again, and again. looked ok at the time, but as soon as i sprayed on undercoat i saw these split marks showing up.
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Looks OK to me, just pop in a touch of filler and sand it and youre good to paint it.
But then again if you werent planning on painting it, try modelling it differently or exporting it differently, are you using cura or slicer, or printing hotter, or slower, bigger, smaller, there are tons of things you could try, or just accept the holes, they're not the end of the world, but seeing as i use my printer purely for art and always paint my stuff, slight imperfections are totally OK with me and easily fixed.
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This page still takes waaay to long to load.
Latest bust i did modelled from 123D
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The post your prints section also states 1 photo for everything even though I uploaded many. So that is incorrect. Especially seeing as when you go into the images you can scroll through. Yes, its like the forum people are the beta testers, of the Ultimaker and the forum.
Zero testing and debugging here truly shocking before deployment in the wild.
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OK, done a whole load this weekend, now im waiting for the undercoat to harden, and they'll be done, but on one thing i did notice, is that something with the undercoat spray reacted with the first print i did with 0.8mm shell for the trex, and it just started cracking insanely, so that has now become a salvage job, but might look cool due to the randomization of the cracks. Ill post most later. The others seem unaffected by the spray. all colorfabb filament. Going ultra thin on the bases has left me with warped bases, but i dont really care i can always put them on new ones. Some 123D catch friends, and a cleaned up versions of a few models i have laying around.
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Just looked at the old forum and thought to my self, this looks good, then the penny dropped. old forum. lol.
...all that lovely information on the first page!
drowning my sorrows in acetone today!
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Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
First time posting from mobile! Delay meant double post cos of slow internet. Sorry. M