cloakfiend
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Posts posted by cloakfiend
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Yeah the printer that prints in carbon fibre sounds interesting, but i hope the carbon3d printer wont have the same issues as the form1+.
I have now ended my quest for printing the smoothest most perfect part and am perfectly happy with my ultimaker 2 results after my last session of atomic cleaning method, i just wish it was a bit quicker! lol
I also heard of inconsistent quality issues with the form1+ and the cost is just far to high at the moment with all the waste material. The ultimaker 2 is not going anywhere soon!
but a printer that prints in minutes instead of days is welcome anytime!
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Check out the future of resin printing! looks like what ive been waiting for has finally been invented!! yay.
...but until next year, 24Hr long prints for me, lol!
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This Carbon 3D resin printer looks very promising indeed there goes form 1+ future purchase down the toilet... With the ultimaker as a cheaper rough and ready side kick, the future looks very interesting!
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@solidprint3d, now that you have been playing with the f1+ for a while, how are you finding the costs? In comparison with the um2 filament.
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While searching trough Thingiverse I stumbled upon this very detailed bust of president Roosevelt. It's printed at 0.06 mm and didn't need any post-processing at all! I've tried to paint it as realistic as possible and I'm very happy with the result.
The original print doesn't have glasses, only the nose-part. With a lighter I've stretched out some PLA to make it into a thin strand. Then bended it to a round shape, painted it, and put a bubble of diluted glue in it (just like if you're blowing bubbles). The glue then dried almost transparant giving the appearance of glass inside the glasses.
Share your thoughts!
Im surprised how good that painted model came out. I would never dream of painting a model without cleaning it up first. I used to paint citadel minatures in my youth, and watching you do this makes me wanna go back to painting, lol. Keep up the good work!
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Calibration is the biggest waste of time for me. Due to the almost limitless variables involved in fdm printers, doing these tests seems like a massive waste of time and filament. No offence, but you'd be far better off trying to print your object with different settings than this test. Or spending your time actually learning how to use modelling programs like max, maya, cinema4d, zbrush.....the list goes on. And then trying to print your creations to the best of your abilities.
But the main problem with fdm printers (and my experience with the ultimaker 2) are nozzle jams, as without these the printers generally print great out of the box. You calibrate the printer with the sheet of paper thing right? And you only really need to callibrate it after 4 to 5 prints if you are getting issues or are rough with removing the bed whilst taking your model off it.
If you have a problem with overhangs concentrate on solving those, but you'll waste so much time finding the right settings for each particular filament at certain temps, and layer heights that it all becomes a little pointless.
The printer is calibrated out of the box. And unless you are printing with some more exotic material like flexible metallic or transparent filament, rather than bog standard abs or pla then just playing with speed and temp and layer height is all you really need to do remembering the nozzle size thing, i.e. A factor of 0.4.
You can spend your entire life calibrating... But it wont stop the printer from jamming right before you kick your print off. Putting you back to square one!
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0.06 is very very nice if callibrated and much better than 0.1 unless you enjoy using filler/acetone vapour business which reduces quality. i only print in 0.06 and acheive results makerbot users can only dream of if they can only print in 0.1 as this for me is totally unacceptable as the lines are very visible and i hate them. Some people dont mind them, but i think these people are just in denial, and have accepted that they have no need for higher quality hence dont persue it. However on the otherhand i believe 0.02 is a joke in my opinion, and total waste of time. But that is just my opinion, as i can smooth printed stuff in pla at 0.06 to look almost perfectly smooth with very little effort. So i wouldnt ever see the need to print any higher, and resin printers are just waaay too expensive at the moment with all t7he various costs involved. Besides you are only increasing the chance of errors and with such insane print times at 0.02 you are more than likely gonna get a few so whats the point if you are printing ultra fine to try and eliminate print lines in the first place?
You have to accept the fact that if you want something real perfect you need to put in a touch of work afterwards. It all depends on how much work you want to put in and what the object is that you are trying to print. But in my experience i found that 0.06 is great. I might try 0.05 but whats the point if my results are so good as they are. I dont want to wait weeks for my print that may fail, when i can wait a day for it to look great?
If you want 0.02 you are gonna have to wait for new technology im afraid, fdm printers cant really improve much due to the mechanics. The makerbots need to upgrade thier resolution from the lame 0.1 limit i understand is its commercial limit.
Just buy an ultimaker 2 and print at 0.06 and youll never look back. I have only 3 or 4 messed up prints in 6 months and had the printer printing non stop day at night. I hear the makerbot is very unreliable, but then again maybe its just people cant calibrate them right or something.
Sorry for the long rant but i highly reccomend people to print at the 0.06 layer height. It makes a huge difference if you are after higher quality results. Your eyes might not see the difference but its very noticable after a chemical dip.
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You gotta play around unfortunately to see what works best in the colour your using. I've have arguments with my friend over settings before and it usually comes down to a clogged nozzle being the issue and the poor feeder.
Ive had perfect 27-50hour prints on colorfabb pla and only use their filament due to the quality of print i get especially at .06mm. I run the temp at 230 c but always get weird underextrusion at the start, but just print a raft and it usually clears through before it gets to the model.
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Mine was using standard black PLA form colorfabb and glue called prittstick power. I guess its a lot stronger than the usual prittstick. I only bought it as the original prittstick was lumpy and this one wasnt, but ill try and get some cheapo glue like the one supplied. I always water the glue down from now on when it is on the plate to make sure its weaker and use the upside-down air can trick to get it to come off better.
I think its the kind of thing that only happens once...i hope, or its off to get some more glass which shouldnt cost to much so its not the end of the world.
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This also happened to me, but ill admit to jamming a butterknife between the model and plate and hammering at it with a book. I simply used too much glue and over too much surface area and it pulled an ultra thin wafer of glass of the plate. I just use the other side now, no biggie, i learnt my lesson. If you dont want it to happen, then just use rafts, they never let me down.
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Yep kinda like this vid i made, i did a few if you look for pla smoothing acetone cloakfiend in you tube i think, but im setting up a channel to show it in more detail as ive been doing it a while and have learned a lot during my trial and error tests. I might ramble a bit but i dont want to miss bits, im gonna do more close up vids to highlight how good this is, and found that using ultimakers blue PLA you can even print in 0.1 and the Acetone bath makes it look pretty good. But its cheaper as it may contain more impurities and seems lower grade compared to the colorfabb which doesnt seem to dissolve as much.
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@randyinla if you want to smooth something in acetone printed in pla then make sure you use a pla that contains pha or abs, i highly recommend colorfabb but maybe others are also good ive not tried, then print it at 0.06 layer height and submerge it in acetone for about 20-30seconds. After that just leave it alone for like an hour, but as the pla absorbs the acetone it changes state so you should then leave it alone for about 1-3 hrs to see the full effect. After that wait another 3 days or so for it to fully revert back to being rock solid again as it will be flexible in its present state. Remember, you MUST submerge it, simply putting acetone on it wont do anything. If you want it perfect you can sand down the remaining lines if the print was not perfect with fine sandpaper like 240 which is easy when its in its rubber state, and then submerge it again for maybe like 10-15secs. You should now end up with a model that has no lines and has lost barely any of its finer details. I could elaborate but id end up writing an essay, just watch my vids in the art of printing section to get the jist of what im talking about.
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Yeah, im getting tired of it, lol. Once i think its good to go and clear, click click... Im taking a break from it for a while anyways let my buddy have go, gonna prep some stuff in the mean time do a bit of zbrushing and try to do a few more faces..
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If you want something shiny and glossy i cant deny that acetone vapour method works, as it clearly works, but is imperfect and visibly melts your object. And depending on how perfect you want a print, i just found that pla (colorfabb that is!) if printed high enough smooths just enough to keep the details with a few mild lines, but thats ok because you can sand them out ealisy, and then run the process again to reach perfection. I mean people who expect prints to be perfect and need no cleanup what so ever straight off the buildplate are dreaming. They can be real good, but rarely are perfect.
If you dont want something highly detailed then by all means stick witht the abs and acetone.
Its just not good enough for me thats all. Ill do a few more tuts to explain with spheres and cubes as i think people are missing my point on what exactly it does. Maybe im not clear enough?
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Good first try!
I also used around 50 photos i think you have to pay after that or something, and you kinda want to focus on less stuff like a face or leg or arm as the quality wont be that great due to the background interferring and perfect spiraling of photos, but its quite reasnoble for doing faces. Keep trying but work your way up from small objects so you can figure out what comes out best on the software. My main problem was getting my mate to hld still. I wrapped her in a black velvet sheet to cut her head out too as it was the darkest material i could find, and had her pose with a friend holding a black piece of velvet behind her head wherever i was taking the photo. Trying to isolate her from the surrounding.
P.s. Use 3dsmax to give it a shell from the inside so that you dont touch the outside at all. Even though even on my model it was not perfect and the normals where totally crazy, but i was still happy with the outcome. I only use a phone to take the pics as well, im sure if i used a fancy camera they would come out better.
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Also just curious, but i seem to be getting jamms after every print now, while before i would just set it off and it would always clear up after a felw layers, its now persistently getting jams, meaning not perfect prints lile i used to get, even printing the same objects as i used to. Also what confuses me are the settings used to print the default objects as it never seems to jam when i print them, but as soon as i try mine, click click click. Very annoying! Even at 0.1 layer height 50mm/s. Raft or not.
Is it time for a nozzle replacement? I have had the printer on printing for about. 3 months straight, almost no breaks apart from recently, and it always seems to clog when its been left alone for some time...
Any ideas would be great. Back in the day when i loaded material or changed it, it would come out of the end after loading, but now it seems i need to move the material a bit forward in order for it to come out to even start the lprint, ive tried all the usual resets and such, but if the robot prints fine, why should mine not.? How can i find what temps and other stuff the default objects print at so i can try and mimic them to see if its my settings that are a problem?
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If you are using a warming pad, dont use a cheap one i did and it heats up waay too hot, make sure it has (a working) controllable temperature, as you dont want it getting too hot.
But try buying some colorfabb PLA and printing in 0.06 and just soaking it in acetone for 20 seconds, and then you dont need to bother worrying about doing this vapour business. Its pretty random if you dont incorporate fans and the cold vapour mothod means the top of your model and other flat areas dont get smoothed anyway.
Just give it a go. Once you see the results you wont want use ABS that anymore....
I dont work for colorfabb BTW lol. its just their PLA appears to contain impurities which react nicely to acetone.
Here is a simple comparison printed at 0.1 layer height with ultimaker blue that shipped with the printer back in September 2014.
Its a myth that all PLA doesn't react to acetone. Try it for yourself, but i would recommend using colorfabb as the ultimaker one is a bit cheaper and seems to disintegrate after too long.
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Here is not my latest print, but one of my first, but i think its quite nice eitherway so i thought id share it, if you like i can make a regular one without the 6 and upload it for people who love cup cakes, lol. It hasnt been touched after taking it off the build plate, thinking of doing my usual acetone treatment on it to make it perfect. Printed in my ususal colorfabb black at 35mm/s 0.06 layer height and 230C temp.
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Lol! you used white, i didnt like my white results, looked too globby i didnt even get round to trying to dip it as the prints weren't good enough to begin with. Heres one.
Check all my vids if you dont believe me, i ditched ABS a while ago. you have to keep it submerged for 20-30 secs. here is my latest vid with the stock blue ultimaker PLA i got with my ultimaker 2. sorry for the silly tune im getting tired of trying to convince people that this is the way to go. i know pure PLA wont get affected by acetone i never said it will, but the colorfabb stuff sure as hell does, i dont care what anyone says!!!! lol.
here my latest vid to prove ultimaker pla smooths at 0.1 even with only one dip. maybe not so well on very flat areas, but steep stuff looks almost perfect. im sure a light sand would make it great.
The beauty is that you wont lose any detail unlike the abs method. maybe if you leave it for like an hour or so or even many minutes which i wouldn't recomend. As the PLA turns to rubber and needs time to settle.
Only colorfabb green doesn't appear to do much for me but then again i tried it with nail polish mix, so it wasn't pure, so that was probably my fault. I bet now that it does.
Keep dipping!!!! spread the word. Lol!
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Fair enough about the bullets, but the PLA print looks pretty bad to me, would you mind saying at what resolution you printed that bullet as i have never seen a print that bad come off my ultimaker 2?
And I hear you about the zbrush thing, the true weakness of the FDM printers are low diagonals, and overhangs, but cura is getting better at the supports not being so thick, and i have had great results lately especially with a face print i just tried.
I still find the size a bit limiting, i guess you would have to print things in parts. but i read somewhere that a nice full figure costs about $56 to print due to all the excess material using full price resin.
However there are loads of companies making cheaper resin now, one is maker juice which should bring the costs down by 2/3.
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colorfabb all the way. i have the best quality prints i can imagine, besides, the additives make it reactable to acetone, so you can make it smooth. you dont want pure PLA. its useless.
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i was seriously thinking about getting one of these for ages, but the additional costs are equal to hundreds of metres of filament which equals tons more prints on the ultimaker. 99 buck is like 400 metres of filament. for replacing a tray after a certain amounts of prints. and its on going.
also printing larger objects such as figurines, you tend to waste a lot of resin for the supports, sometimes more resinn than the actual model, so the bullet comparison is a bit in favour of the form but anything bigger and the costs get astronomical.
but with my newly discovered acetone dipping technique for pla achieving similar results for pla is as simple as throwing the bullets off the printer into acetone with a few seconds of light sanding on the tops and done. so im holding off until these printers are like 10 times faster.
also none of the waste is reusable unlike the ultimaker which you can send off to turn into a new roll, or do it yourself if you have an extruder. so the cost are waaay more expensive.
i would only buy this printer if you are seriously good at zbrush and want to print your beautifully detailed models. i dont want to sound rude or anything but printing bullets seems a real waste of time to me for the amazing stuff that printer can do.
besides. if you want 500 bullets you should just make a mold from one nicely cleaned up print and just use that. or just make a mold of a real bullet. much easier...
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I wish i could do that to my entire flat, lol.
Printing speed for ABS, underextrusion and nozzle clogging
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Not sure what condition your ultimaker is in, but the nozzle is clearly still jammed, i print from 35mm to 70mm with no real issues.
Just get some white pla or something and do the atomic pull method btu make sure you do it in a corner so not to bend the bar as i did once, but managed to bend it back. thank god.
Use white, as when you have bits of tiny dirt still stuck in the nozzle they are much easiler to see than with any other material. i thought i unblocked my nozzle for ages until i used white.
The main thing for nozzle jams is temp. sometimes i print slightly hotter to get the material to pass through, also if im printing in 0.2 (to get better flow).but again, if you have to do this your nozzle is still jammed.
Unblock it and youll be fine. 50mm speed is fine for 0.1 thickness of abs or pla at their default temps unless you are using some kind od exotic materials.