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cloakfiend

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Posts posted by cloakfiend

  1. Ok seeing as i ran out of black, i though id try the blue again and i did a rush test after tons of cleaning due to much carbonization as i havent used it for a while and im actually very pleased. I think i didnt test the blue properly before and it smooths pretty well even at 0.1! Maybe 0.2 i cant remeber which setting as i just upgraded the cura to 15.1.

    Ill keep you posted gonna try and print some stuff again, but it seems the material is more feeder friendly too as even when it grinds it seems not as brittle as the black and doesnt jam as much, but im interested to see how good the detail comes out.

    Doenst seem to be warping much either but i guess ill only really find out in a few hours after its cured.... Yep its warped now, lol but its smooooth, defo gonna do a full model tomorrow.

  2. Sorry yzorg but you are wrong with regards to acetone doing nothing to pla prints. but of course it depends on which pla you are using, as does the effectiveness of acetone on different types of abs.

    if you dont belive me....

     

     

     

     

    You just have to print higher rez, but you get more detail as a result!

    I hate acetone on ABS it looks lame and gloopy in my opinion. I think people just like it because it looks glossy. Like apple products, lol.

    @reibuehl you have to get a vat of acetone and simply dunk your model in it for about 30 seconds, then a bit of light sanding in the problem areas, and another quick dunk, and you will have something far superior to someone doing the same model with ABS.

     

  3. Ok so here is my last print i have no black filament left for the time being and am concentrating on doing casting molds for the blooms. But i just wanted to show you the destructive power of acetone on pla when you have thin layers and incomplete internal filling, i.e. Loads of nozzle jams and skipping. The model appears ok but i knew it would not smooth well from the beginning as the internal 20% fill was very poor compared to the blooms where it was solid. So if you see the print coming out bad, forget dipping it.

     

     

  4. However if you do this method a lot, it could get quite expensive, as i know spray cans aren't cheap. Perhaps find a plant watering spray bottle that is acetone proof instead, it would be just as effective, but you'd still be wasting more acetone than dunking unfortunately, but at least you'd be saving on spraycans. Just a thought.

  5. Lol, you read my mind. I just ruined a model because i dunked it waaay to long and it had some holes in it and just exploded on me. If you use it on pla then make sure you have no holes in the structure. And dont use it on flat thin surfaces. When you soak pla and then leave it overnight, it actually smooths more than it looks after half an hour. Im still experimenting, but this would be better than brushing it on which is uneven, just to remove the roughness of where youve sanded with fine sandpaper.

  6. OK here is my third tut, sorry its a bit long, but i tried to include as much as i could including some pics and vids of the model printing to the finished result, but that comes at the end of the vid as i printed i a while ago, and just got the vids off my phone yesterday when i made the tut.

    Its the nice and detailed flower bloom model by edmark.

    All the detail is kept and looks great in my opinion, ive got no more filament left, so its gonna be a while till my next print, but ive got one more to smooth that printed quite badly even at 35mm, so that will be interesting. obviously its gonna need more sanding, but anyways, i hope it turns out ok!

     

     

  7. The um does not like the cold, loads of nozzle jams, i had it in a server rack full of fans and it was a disaster.is best you don't even breath on it when its printing. Just let it be. I always print at pla 210 35 mm at 0.06 now. Used to do 70mm at 230 but no more. Having a real bad time recently. Someone has messed about with the printer i can tell some fan holders are bent and the filament is incorrectly loaded, and nozzle is blocked. Well annoyed, wanted to do a tutorial this weekend, but doesn't look like thats gonna happen.

  8. I get this all the time, it really sucks. Its the only bad thing about the ultimaker printer. If they solve this, then it would be perfect. My prints go for 40 hours plus so you can see how it might annoy me. Lol. And the phantom nozzle jams. Ok one minute and jammed the next, then extruder is grinding so much you have to rip it out. I just force it in now with pliers, and twist on move material till it gets past that point. Ill see if its jammed in the head (as it sticks out a touch due to the grinding) in the morning, as today it took me 2 hrs to get it going, well annoyed. Shame as i think the filament might run out on me and the model would have been awesome, o well, fingers crossed. I wish there was a little mark on the filament to let you know how much was left as unrolling and rolling it back is a no go.

  9. I do it while the printer is doing the first few layers as well, it saves time messing about calibrating it and also saves times when you get jams at the start as it often just works through them. because you if you get bad nozzle jams after calibration you will have to do it again anyways and fall into a circle of calibrating and pulling out the broken filament then trying to clean the nozzle and it can waste a lot of time. On the fly you can just turn the screws until they are close to the nozzle at the start. Little mess ups are often negligable at the start or if they bother you just get some tweezers and pull away the stuf that has messed up when the print head is not in the way. Im glad to hear im not the only one doing this.

  10. Flame thrower, lol, I am a full blown pyromaniac too, so dont temp me, ill probably try and burn a few just to see, but i doubt it will go in all the detailed areas, perhaps a tiny hand flame thrower( which i have of course!) might do the trick, id like to see a vid of the flame thrower method. If there isnt one, ill make one next week. Right now im ill. Probably too much acetone inhalation, lol. No just kidding, i got the flu!

  11. I only submerged the tips of my fingers, but i only did this as a friend of mine (a girl) had a massive tub of acetone in a pink bottle labeled nail polish remover that absolutely stunk when she opened it, and it had a sponge in the middle that you were meant to dip your finger nails in, this obviously meant your fingertips would touch the acetone, and assuming you dont do this everyday im pretty sure once everynow and then is ok..

    But then again, im the kind of guy who loves to play with mercury in my hand, so small exposures to stuff doesnt bother me. Just dont do it forever, as the effects are additive over time. lol.

     

  12. All filament react differently to acetone, i just found from experience. Trying the different pla ones i had that black colorfab pla filament works best for me, the green one didnt do anything and the white one looked like crap to begin with just lumpy to begin with so i didnt even try. I got the idea by dunking the test piece that can with the printer and noticed that after an acetone bath i could barely see any lines and all the details were kept unlike the acetone abs vapour nonsense that destroys all fine detail. My method brings it out. You just need enough acetone to dunk it in. If you wear a mask gloves and do it outside i cant see any safety issues unless youre doing it on a scyscraper balcony and are very clumsy, lol.

    Give it a go with a small object if you dont belive me. Just make sure youve tuned the printer to the best of your abilities, and print at 0.06 or higher. Sand or use a scalpel to cut off the dots where the print head left the model, and do a primary dip. After this initial dip you can see the problem areas which usually do not need much touching up and then a quick little dip to make youre sanded fixed areas good again and you have a perfect piece with little post effort. You can always spray it with plastic primer to see the areas either if you dont want to double dip. I reccomend a lond dip followed by a touch of sanding then a quick dip tomake that smoothand youre good. No more lines, much, lol.

  13. Just to let you know i think there is a problem with the cura, as when i print the raft in o.1 it is always fine, as soon as i switch to 0.06 its crap. But the model prints fine on the raft. They need to set the raft to permanently be at 0.1 to avoid this retarded issue which just lead to the filament getting worn out from the printer doing its retarded nozzle retraction thing that wears it away to the point of you having to pull it out and start over. This is my only gripe with tthe ultimaker, other than that its easily the best one out here.

    I then started printing my models with no raft but they became so stuck i ended up pulling a layer of glass off one i had trouble removing. Never again. You need the raft if you cover a lot of surface area. Its a fake block alot of the time, epecially with the raft. I always let it mess up on the raft as i know the model. will be perfect.

    To clean my nozzle i just heat it up to 260 jam in some filament and then ramp the temp to 0 whilst still pushing through the filament till the temp stops melting it. Then i wait till its around 60-70 or even 80 and whip it out gently (you dont want to bend the bars). Generally works everytime and i dont need to do the whole change material nonsense that way. The key is not letting the nozzle safety feature kick in for too long or else it will grind through the plastic leaving you to remove it as it cant pull it through anymore cos its been grinding away. This mechanism needs to be changed it ruins the experience and makes me want to pick up the printer and smash it into pieces everytime i hear that duk duk noise. Claiming to have a blocked nozzle.

    Please ultimaker either make the grips larger or more spread apart. Or something as right now it just eats into the filament so much during retraction it cant grip it anymore and needs maintenance. After a few times this gets extremely annoying. Id like a setting that says ignore the nozzle block please and print regardless.

  14. Yep, im with you on the safety now, its just im used to doing things quick and easy and usually not wasting time with safety nonsense, but that amount of acetone is a bit crazy. I only used that because i was in a hurry and couldnt find a smaller container to fit the head.

    Im doing another tutorial now with the fibonacci object prior to any sanding printed in 27hrs at a quicker 70mms at 230deg just to show how great the resultss are even after one long dip. I used gloves in this one, but next time im doing it outside lol! Cant breath that crap in any more its ok when its a tiny tub, but 2.5 litres gets stinky.

    Pla and acetone is the way guys, if you can just find a container small enough to fit the object to reduce the amount of acetone you use.

    Next year its gonna be dlp but until then you cant beat pla and acetone results in my opinion. Period. Unless you love filler spray and tons of sanding. However it must be noted that flat thin objects will warp so beware, youll see this in the next vid. Stay safe, peace.

  15. TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO SAY ACETONE DOES NOTHING TO ALL BRANDS OF PLA.....YOU ARE WRONG. LIKE TOTALLY WRONG.

    THIS NOW APPLIES TO COLORFABB NON SPECIALITY FILAMENT ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (as i have not tried speciality filaments.) If anyone from colorfabb wants to send me some samples id be happy to try them out, ;)lol.

    (EDIT: UM BRAND PLA NO LONGER SMOOTHS due to changes in their manufacturing process) Just to let you know. The red one below is Colorfabb BTW and so is the black t-rex beneath that. And that still should work, im getting more new filament soon so ill kee you updated if it also changes. But seeing as they still add pha to it i think it should be fine. UM no longer does and i think that is the reason.

    I do need to say this also probably wont work with cheap brands of PLA from what i've heard, due to the lack of dissolvable plastics in the PLA like HIPS/ABS/PHA which seems to be present in the PLA I use which is Colorfabb and Ultimaker Brand (my favourite). Just thought I'd add that note in case it doesn't work for you as we all know that (from a chemical point of view) PLA is not affected by acetone, but to improve the composition and printability of PLA many manufacturers add stuff to it which makes it smoothable (which is great) ! ( just need to say this as some smart arses alway tell me that PLA is traditionally not dissolvable in acetone as we all know by now. ) well i'm just telling you that I found two brands that do smooth, and i'm not bothered about the percentage of PLA in those filaments or the fact that its not 'PURE' PLA which some people seem to find so damn important, but I find the smooth-ability of it far more impotant so save all those other arguments for someone who cares. If its smoother prints you want, then read on......If you only want to use 'PURE' PLA for whatever weird reason you choose other than cost (which is a big factor I admit) then this thread is NOT for you. As from what I've read PLA blends tend to be slightly more expensive that Pure PLA, but they tend to be strionger, print better, and.......smooooth unlike pure PLA. But it IS still PLA so all you blend haters can just carry on hating what i'm lovin'.

     

     

     

     

     

    Old thread below, go to end for more recent stuff.

    ****PLEASE NOTE THAT I DO THINGS DIFFERENTLY NOW AND DO NOT POUR 2 LITRES OF ACETONE INTO A VAT. THE ONLY REASON I DID IT HERE WAS THAT I HAD NO OTHER CONTAINERS THAT THE HEAD WOULD FIT INSIDE AND IT WAS THE FIRST ATTEMPT I DID ON A HIGH DETAIL MODEL AND I WAS EXPERIMENTING SO YOU DONT HAVE TO! FOR SMALL MODELS YOU CAN JUST POP SOME ACETONE INTO A MUG OR GLASS, TAKE IT OUTSIDE AND DIP IT THERE, SO YOU OR YOUR HANDS NEVER REALLY COME INTO CONTACT WITH ACETONE, MAKING IT VERY SAFE.****

    OK, Guys first post here, and after finding that my abs parts were breaking a lot i switched to black PLA from Colourfab the regular one 2,85 mm. After reading all the abs acetone business i still found the vapour cloud too random and thick at the bottom and thin at the top so gave up after many failed attempts.

    PLA However i noticed that if you print at 0.06 (or higher i guess, i didnt go bove 0.06) then the acetone just eats away enough for it to smooth any casual sanding and even most of the printing lines. Here is a quick vid i made sorry for and bad language, its just the way i speak.

     

    Good luck, no need for any other nasty chemicals! unless you're in a hurry, lol.

    the big head took 33Hrs to print btw.

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