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cloakfiend

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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. Thanks for the write-up! I'll try the 9V battery first. Ill ask someone to explain to me the basics when i get the stuff, as I know ill just get it wrong, and it will save time at the beginning. Once I've done a few hopefuly I should get the hang of things! Off to ebay/amazon/internet now! one is ok but seeing as ill try for some eyes a lil diagram for two would be nice! 😉 I assume a series circuit or something? not sure how it will affect the resistor requirements? will i need more or is the current good for two if its good for one?
  2. I did notice that because of the hat on the model, the layer lines where much better than normal on the freddie models face due to it being shielded with support material, which indicates a wall around the object might beneficial in surface quality. both models were printed with identical settings one day apart.
  3. Nice, I like it! I ewant to work with leds more... I did a bit back in the day but my friend did all the electronics. I want to do glowing eyes and such on a few of my models. Not sure really where to start, I want to keep it simple and minimal.
  4. Only the hat was sanded and inside the mouth and under the chin. freddies face was not sanded at all, its just too detailed. At 30mm/s on the s5 it printed pretty well. the hat was sanded because i ran out of filament and created layer lines when fiddling around with the spool. traffic red colourfabb is a classic of mine. but i still think tansparent red is best for smoothing. the light brown is ok but not as good. My Doctor and Herbert West hill from Re-animator will be next, I'll film doing that one, seeing as my last video didn't show me applying the second acetone coating, and the lighting was poor!. I would wait until it starts going white after a few minutes, then id brush it and then re-apply, and brush it again. brushing it in its soft state is what creates the shiny look.
  5. Just wanted to say that the majority of the whiteness caused by acetone does come off with a subsequent acetone coating. So apply the acetone then wait a few minutes for it to evaporate off, then when its still in its soft stage get a brush and apply another coating. The acetone cleaning up layer diesnt need to be heavy at all. Jusy tested it on some test sculpts today and it worked even on really old colourfabb filament which is the light brown one.
  6. i tried to wipe off the residue but it didn't seem to work for me. (unhappy face) however I did notice that re-acetoning them about 5 minutes after trying to clean them via rushing and wiping with my fingers that they were a lot less white! my issue is that if i have sanded/scored parts of the model to get it a bit smoother that part goes white much easier than the others. I made a little video, gonna do dr hill next and make another follow up vid!
  7. Thanks, The prints are really old ones but a testament to the test of time with my plating proving that they last a long time. These ones were old UM2 prints for those curious and then copper plated.
  8. Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
  9. Id have to admit if there was a proper tool for a reasnoble amount id buy it, splicing is a hassle especially when im doing it on the fly and i forget till the last minute. Transparent filament welds great but regular pla is not as good. Well colourfabb anyways. Id like the tool to be small enough to do it on the fly ideally.
  10. I have a spool of glow in tge dark from ice and it prints very well. In fact without issues at all. The support is also very good so i cant complain these above are from the brand alcia3dp (the oversize1kg spools) looked ok going down but must have raised after the fabric layer and addition layer. Ill post pics of a comparison to colorfabb which didnt have this issue. Also the spool was not as heavy like for like with the colorfabb, as if its somehow diluted or thinned. Making it lighter..
  11. Dr. Hill from Reanimator. The teeth came out great! Damn red is so hard to photograph! I'm going to try to acetone it and wipe the white residue off, but I just can't seem to as others appear to? what am I doing differently I wonder....?
  12. I've become very accustomed to melting pla together, not sure about abs or the others, but if its just ends and stuff and the print has retractions then straightening it is fairly important. If you disable retractions just leave it curved and off the spool or else it snaps due to the pressure of the tight roll. it only takes a few minutes to stick two together, I do it by eye just holding them together for about a minute and then using needle pliers and 180 grit sandpaper to even it all out. Ill do a vid, but I'm sure everyone has their own funny methods!
  13. Hello, I just bought some super cheap 1kg spools and these are the first ones i came across that dont fit on the s5. Not a real concern though as they are so cheap and quality is not all that and they actually weigh less than a kg of any other filament i have. Odd. Eitherway just using it to experiment with my fabrics. Bottom layer on salt sucks compared to colourfabb, its flat but there are weird wrinkles on the edges. But, at least simply balancing them on the spool worked just fine!
  14. Sounds interesting. But i suck at cura. An option to not print the bottom layers would be easier. I could always just moddel it hollow or with a conical base or something. Worrying about thickness is annoying as its size dependant and i dont even want to think about that stuff with a model that hasca fixed shell thickness. I print random sizes often or just to finish filament off so a hollow model would not allow for this random behaviour. Unless im mistaken and there is an inside shell thickness mode or sonething? I guess ill just have to come up with a time compromise. As modelling takes time as does messing in cura.
  15. Hmm. Low density may not be an option with some cavities, but curious how this would work say on a smaller scale in a humanoid figure. The cross (1% grid infill ) in is my most common choice currently with an offset to the closest cavity areas. But when its an uneven model with multiple cavities it gets trickier. Still a bottemless print option would be preferential to me as its a real drain on time. I can waste up to 4hrs just waiting forcthe bottom layer, and it gets very frustrating knowing the rest only takes about 2 hours!! Such a waste of time. I spoke to someone in cura about this and they said it could be possible to convert the bottom layers into infill. Then you could just select 0 or 1 or whatever and the geometry would be accounted for. This would be such an awesome time saving option. Control over the initial single bottom layer. Please devs give me control!!!! I beg you.
  16. I kind of figured it would not work. They were trying to say gyroid infill in simply3d or slicer could do it. And now cura had it. Obviously cos of kman i knew cura had it. They said thise softwares could do it. But i doubt it. Unless i see someone do it i simply wont believe it. Too many enthusiasts claiming nonsense iny opinion.
  17. ...Then the guys on my you-tube channel lied to me! they shall pay! nah not really, i never got round to doing it, but a flawed infill might be a good addition, for folks that like to use fillers!
  18. Im guessing i can drill the bottom and with gyroid infill then there are gaps in the infill which will allow me to pour plaster inside? rather than my usual style of printing hollow. Still printing hollow doesnt seem to give me much headaches unless there are loads of cavities in the model, So ill just continye doing that.
  19. Yes but does that effect all bottom layers? Or only the initial bottom later? From previous experience it also affected all bottom layers, on anything with overhangs as well. As dis the setting for top layers. I want a single setting for the one and only bottom layer that touches the buildplate only....and was wandering if that existed yet? Apologies if i missed it and it already is there. Im so used to using the same settings i barely look at the others anymore. I still need to look into the gyroid infill for support seeing as it allows infill to be poured in after. You da master of gyroid @kmanstudios!
  20. Just curious, but whilst on the subject, is there yet a way in cura to essentially skip the initial bottom laters, resulting in a hollow print. Saving time acually modelling it hollow. Meaning no compromise in top bottom layer thickness, but saving many hours on prints with large volume bottom layers? I remember dropping the top bottom layers to like 8 before for 0.06 or something and that worked for the um2 but not for the s5. So some method of skipping those initial layers would be great. Otherwise its just more modelling hassle...
  21. Yeah ill admit i didnt notice the 150mm/s speed. Thats crazy fast in my world. I wouldnt normally go above 70 from a quality point of view. 150 would be for a joke just to watch the machine go crazy fast.
  22. Just print closer to the plate. And you should be fine. If it prints any tests then it should print anything fine. But if you've removed the plate heavy handed then youve most likely afected the initial initial print layer which is the most important.
  23. Indeed! Look cool, reminds me of those ghostbusters gargoyles.
  24. Well heres how these came out just took photos with a flash to highlight the interesting top layer. I havent had another try as im not sure exactly whats going on but i think its basically laying down the filament too high. Looks good though, and top layers adhere ok, but do come apart with force so they arent as strong. But from and art and beauty perspective totally acceptable. Green glow fill pla on top of tough pla.
  25. I didn't mean that but some people have different thresholds of acceptability. E.g if I'm giving something to a child, I don't care. If I'm metal plating something i do care. I need perfection. there is no right or wrong way, just methods developed for reasons they were developed for. Printing off a spool has less resistance than on a spool. Its that simple. Theres less weight to move and no overspin. There is simply no potential for a tangle. Im simply trying to minimise any potential failures, and in my experiences tangles have been one of them. Not anymore. And I just weld loose bits together not to waste material. I never mean to offend or anything, even though its easy to interpret that way online. I just have my methods and think they are great, just like everyone else method to them. If you don't have issues with spools, then thats great. But I do unfortunately. Also everyone has their own opinions, and this is just mine. I could be wrong! Suggesting to people they are doing things wrong according to personal opinion is impossible to explain without experience of the issues that person has had and what they have done to overcome the issues. It would be easier for me to slap a spool on and print away, but experience has taught me otherwise..and Im lazy so I don't take pleasure in using my method it also has potential for failure don't forget. but different potentials.
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