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Everything posted by cloakfiend

  1. However if you do this method a lot, it could get quite expensive, as i know spray cans aren't cheap. Perhaps find a plant watering spray bottle that is acetone proof instead, it would be just as effective, but you'd still be wasting more acetone than dunking unfortunately, but at least you'd be saving on spraycans. Just a thought.
  2. Lol, you read my mind. I just ruined a model because i dunked it waaay to long and it had some holes in it and just exploded on me. If you use it on pla then make sure you have no holes in the structure. And dont use it on flat thin surfaces. When you soak pla and then leave it overnight, it actually smooths more than it looks after half an hour. Im still experimenting, but this would be better than brushing it on which is uneven, just to remove the roughness of where youve sanded with fine sandpaper.
  3. OK here is my third tut, sorry its a bit long, but i tried to include as much as i could including some pics and vids of the model printing to the finished result, but that comes at the end of the vid as i printed i a while ago, and just got the vids off my phone yesterday when i made the tut. Its the nice and detailed flower bloom model by edmark. All the detail is kept and looks great in my opinion, ive got no more filament left, so its gonna be a while till my next print, but ive got one more to smooth that printed quite badly even at 35mm, so that will be interesting. obviously its gonn
  4. As long as you dont print on a raft and print real close to the build plate at the start the surface will be smooth, but so long as you dont get nozzle jams or any blocks. Its that simple. Its got nothing to do with fine settings in my opinion.
  5. The um does not like the cold, loads of nozzle jams, i had it in a server rack full of fans and it was a disaster.is best you don't even breath on it when its printing. Just let it be. I always print at pla 210 35 mm at 0.06 now. Used to do 70mm at 230 but no more. Having a real bad time recently. Someone has messed about with the printer i can tell some fan holders are bent and the filament is incorrectly loaded, and nozzle is blocked. Well annoyed, wanted to do a tutorial this weekend, but doesn't look like thats gonna happen.
  6. Id love to see some pics of this on some highly detailed models. Im attempting one now, but my extruder is grinding the hell out of my filament and have none spare.
  7. Damn my feeder ground the filament a bit but i just left it to print hoping it will be ok. I guess not, oh well. Ill be waking up to a mess in the morning then. I was hoping it will soften by the entrance of the head before it pushes through.
  8. I get this all the time, it really sucks. Its the only bad thing about the ultimaker printer. If they solve this, then it would be perfect. My prints go for 40 hours plus so you can see how it might annoy me. Lol. And the phantom nozzle jams. Ok one minute and jammed the next, then extruder is grinding so much you have to rip it out. I just force it in now with pliers, and twist on move material till it gets past that point. Ill see if its jammed in the head (as it sticks out a touch due to the grinding) in the morning, as today it took me 2 hrs to get it going, well annoyed. Shame as i think
  9. Lol, you dont want that in your, eyes, might make you blink!
  10. And.....if your only concerned about the bottom, either just sand it or get some plastic car bumper repair kit, and scrape it on. To acheive a perfectly flat bottom. I even put it on top layers, but the problem its its so smooth, it makes the rest of the model look rough!
  11. I do it while the printer is doing the first few layers as well, it saves time messing about calibrating it and also saves times when you get jams at the start as it often just works through them. because you if you get bad nozzle jams after calibration you will have to do it again anyways and fall into a circle of calibrating and pulling out the broken filament then trying to clean the nozzle and it can waste a lot of time. On the fly you can just turn the screws until they are close to the nozzle at the start. Little mess ups are often negligable at the start or if they bother you just get s
  12. Flame thrower, lol, I am a full blown pyromaniac too, so dont temp me, ill probably try and burn a few just to see, but i doubt it will go in all the detailed areas, perhaps a tiny hand flame thrower( which i have of course!) might do the trick, id like to see a vid of the flame thrower method. If there isnt one, ill make one next week. Right now im ill. Probably too much acetone inhalation, lol. No just kidding, i got the flu!
  13. I only submerged the tips of my fingers, but i only did this as a friend of mine (a girl) had a massive tub of acetone in a pink bottle labeled nail polish remover that absolutely stunk when she opened it, and it had a sponge in the middle that you were meant to dip your finger nails in, this obviously meant your fingertips would touch the acetone, and assuming you dont do this everyday im pretty sure once everynow and then is ok.. But then again, im the kind of guy who loves to play with mercury in my hand, so small exposures to stuff doesnt bother me. Just dont do it forever, as the effects
  14. Here is my follow up vid. Of fibonacci print.
  15. I do 40hrs plus prints at 230 no problem but dont like those high temps. I stay well away from abs now. And when you manually push stuff in there is a bit of resistance getting into th head, dont be too rough. Its not that bad.
  16. Its from the dudes drop box. No i didnt make it but ill show you all in my next tut. Overdid the acetone on it though. It leaked into the internal structure and made it very rubbery. Still looks a million time better than abs vapour nonsens. M
  17. All filament react differently to acetone, i just found from experience. Trying the different pla ones i had that black colorfab pla filament works best for me, the green one didnt do anything and the white one looked like crap to begin with just lumpy to begin with so i didnt even try. I got the idea by dunking the test piece that can with the printer and noticed that after an acetone bath i could barely see any lines and all the details were kept unlike the acetone abs vapour nonsense that destroys all fine detail. My method brings it out. You just need enough acetone to dunk it in. If you w
  18. Just to let you know i think there is a problem with the cura, as when i print the raft in o.1 it is always fine, as soon as i switch to 0.06 its crap. But the model prints fine on the raft. They need to set the raft to permanently be at 0.1 to avoid this retarded issue which just lead to the filament getting worn out from the printer doing its retarded nozzle retraction thing that wears it away to the point of you having to pull it out and start over. This is my only gripe with tthe ultimaker, other than that its easily the best one out here. I then started printing my models with no raft b
  19. Yep, im with you on the safety now, its just im used to doing things quick and easy and usually not wasting time with safety nonsense, but that amount of acetone is a bit crazy. I only used that because i was in a hurry and couldnt find a smaller container to fit the head. Im doing another tutorial now with the fibonacci object prior to any sanding printed in 27hrs at a quicker 70mms at 230deg just to show how great the resultss are even after one long dip. I used gloves in this one, but next time im doing it outside lol! Cant breath that crap in any more its ok when its a tiny tub, but 2.5
  20. TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO SAY ACETONE DOES NOTHING TO ALL BRANDS OF PLA.....YOU ARE WRONG. LIKE TOTALLY WRONG. THIS NOW APPLIES TO COLORFABB NON SPECIALITY FILAMENT ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (as i have not tried speciality filaments.) If anyone from colorfabb wants to send me some samples id be happy to try them out, ;)lol. (EDIT: UM BRAND PLA NO LONGER SMOOTHS due to changes in their manufacturing process) Just to let you know. The red one below is Colorfabb BTW and so is the black t-rex beneath that. And that still should work, im getting more new filament soon so ill kee you updated if it also cha
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