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cloakfiend

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Posts posted by cloakfiend

  1. Exactly, find what works best for you. but in my experience I simply can't quickly post process prints of high rez that have uneven spool business. It simply takes me too long. 

     

    I don't give up mind you and am always experimenting and encourage other to do the same. 

  2. I have an extended filament holder. (usually an empty kitchen towel roll!) then just leave the coiled material over that, so it acts a s a spring untangle-able. ill dig up some pics, I'm doing 0.2mm prints at the mo!

     

    Im all about surface quality. Others don't seems to care so much, it all depends on what you can't accept. I can't accept layer lines in some situations, others i can. 

     

  3. Which resolutions do you print. I almost only print 0.06mm layer height. Even a slight tug has an effect on the surface of the model due to the small amount of material coming out the smaller amount of material coming out the larger the discrepancy on the print....due to forces of resistance.

     

    ...and yes many people print off the spools. Its the only way to go for high rez in my books.

     

    The difference between on and off a spool is that you WILL get tangles on a spool, while, off a spool you won't. The resistance is also uniform off the spool. as there is nothing but the filament to move. 

     

    From your pic, your yellow spool has tangle potential. It not that often but just a matter of time. I only print with 2.85mm filament.

  4. I'm not doubting your engineering or tech, but the only issue I have with spools. Which are the varying resistances of small tangles on a spool. They are flawed by nature well for high res printing anyway. But I'm no engineer, just very observant, id love to be proved wrong mind you.

  5. I also like the concept. But ANY form of uneven resistance will ruin high resolution prints. Ive seen it time and time again. On all spool related printers. And seeing as i have been only doing 0.06 for the past 5odd years. As soon as i print on a loose roll i can see it on the model immediately. Halfway through the spool tends to be ok but not the start. They need to invent unloosening spools (or an added mechanism) before printing high res can benefit from these sort of concepts and developments in my opinion.

  6. 52 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    Either well estimated or just had luck.

     

    Nice. I got this all the time on my um2! I've had it 2mm from the screws before. It such a good feeling coming back to it like this.

     

    If you guestimate by the average of two rings of filament equals 1 meter. Then a touch more at the start of the roll and a touch less near the end. You generally never go wrong. Ive only had it run out once in 4/5 years but i just stuck and held a loose but of filament to let it finish if I see it running out.. Well annoying if you.have a lot of retractions though. Melting them together on the fly is much more time efficient.

  7. Im pretty certain its the tweaking. I even get freak models sometimes. Weird stuff. Im ill at the moment so am in bed but simply unchecking automaticly drop objects to plate created my issue. Along with manually moving it i think. And turning off prime tower which i never use (so i dont know why it was even selected). So im not doing major tweaking either.

     

    Cura is like a good boy that becomes a teenager and starts doing it own thing. It has a tendency to alter settings after some period of use regardless and previously greying out options it shouldnt be (luckily i havent had this issue in 3.4 yet) . I would prefer options for infill, support, and all associated speed and temps on the main interface. Scrolling up and down that darn menu is such a time waster. On a high res touch screen.

  8. I did wonder if the settimgs altered the behaviour of the machines before or after printing and found weird behaviour like ultra slow moves from the prime blob area with retraction turned off. Perhaps one setting is adversly causing this. My latest print skipped every other layer for 8 layers then printed fine? Looked ok after apart from the 4 weak layers at the start. I find tweaking things causes these issues. 

  9. Well i decided to print anyways and the first layer went down smooth, but the next, rough, weird, but looks good for my purposes, better than top surface layer lines anyday. a fortunate accident!

     

    Ill post pics when its finished.

  10. Just use @geert_2 salt method if youre using PLA. Its the only painless removal method I came across for lazy people who hate prepping the plate like I do. And you get the shiny bottom too if you go easy on the salt. If you add the salt when the bed is too hot, it crystalizes too fast and you may bet less shiny spots. But its still shiny.

     

    It works very well. I used glue for over 5 years but now am converted completely to the salt method. Its the only way to go in my opinion. Sometimes ill have 2000-3000 small objects on the plate and need them all to stick and come off easily after whilst maintaining structure with zero damage. Salt can achieve this. I couldnt do that with any glue and not worry if one piece was gonna be stuck more than the other.

  11. Ill dive in and let you know my experiences.i just find it weird that pretty much all rated ones on forums and websites are unavailable and updated yearly so its hard to follow any smaller brands.

     

    But like you said its gonna be used for welding parts todether and stuff. You did real nice post work with yours i seem to remember! Veins and vines work.

  12. Thanks @Kman i remember you using a 3d pen. Im going for a cheap gamble and then if it doesnt work out, ill just give it away as a gift and get a more expensive one. No way to the 3doodler considering the straight filament. Ill just get one which takes 1.75mm filament. I just bought some dirt cheap glow in the dark filament so im going down the dirt cheap route as it printed fine and holds the glow for hours with a short burst charge. A lot of pastel colours are also not that available so i will see how my cheap selection do ill have to do the same with the 1.75 filament. But itvhas more cols available. I couldnt even find glow in the dark red or blue in 2.85mm.

    • Like 1
  13. Hi, I was looking into getting a 3d pen but there seem to be so many available and unavailable with most looking identical with random brand names? can anyone suggest a reliable and decent one, Im looking at this kind of design at the moment. I'm not bothered about a cable or battery, just as long as its reliable and works.

     

    so far what im looking at,

     

    Partner 3d doodle pen:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Printing-Parner-Doodler-Drawing-Filament/dp/B07FJX2CZJ/ref=sr_1_13_sspa?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1548977377&sr=1-13-spons&keywords=partner+3d+pen&psc=1

     

    Meterk intelligent 3D doodler pen:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Printing-Meterk-Intelligent-Doodler-Filament/dp/B07DBXL2NQ/ref=sr_1_16_sspa?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1548976992&sr=1-16-spons&keywords=Parner+3D+Doodler+Pen&psc=1

     

    Aerb 3D printing pen:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerb-Printing-Intelligent-Compatible-6-410-220/dp/B01N22KJNO/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1548976992&sr=1-15-spons&keywords=Parner+3D+Doodler+Pen&psc=1

     

    Any advice would be appreciated. Or else I'm just gonna have to be the guinea pig.

     

    Thanks.

  14. ...And my Hello Kitty mat. 😜 im back to sculpting now however, Ill post a vid about all the pittfalls in this technique and a guide of what i think in my opinion are the best methods in doing it are as well!

     

     

    20190131_201444.jpg

    • Like 3
  15. I know what you mean, however is it possible to put some kind of pads there? I did leave something under the plate once and forgot about it and it made an incredible loud screeching noise when the plate tried to move down. Luckily the motors timed out and hopefully no permanent damage has occured, but I was scared for a moment. The bed moving up and down is the loudest thing on this machine. I cant have a print on with avoid other objects selected as I can hear that bed noise in my room two floors away. My poor neighbours must have have fun when I was printing my fabric with over 7000 bed moves! I fell asleep due to sheer exhaustion! The object look better with avoid parts disabled anyway as all the end stops looked a little unattractive.

     

    Apart from that the S5 however is much quieter than my UM2. Its a solid machine and very versatile and just as reliable. the nozzles are slightly more difficult to clean however but I have figured out a few easy and simple techniques to make it painless.

  16. On 1/28/2019 at 4:23 PM, geert_2 said:

    By the way: the models in these photos are solids, printed with 100% infill (just like almost all of my models).

     

    Thats interesting, because i've never printed a model with 100% infill. I did print a lid for a box once and tested long exposure times with acetone, and it shrunk by a third of its original size and also warped (so i never did that again! lol), I might even have a photo somewhere? hmmm.

     

    Just a note to all the newbies to this method. I have acetoned models from over 4 years ago, so to all the people reading this, its overexposure that is responsible for any damage. A generous brush is usually  fine i find and no longterm damage will occur. but if you're model is hollow and you've been over generous with the acetone, open it up and let some air into the inside or else the vapour will continue to work as it has nowhere to escape. Ill post some ancient model photos later!

  17. On 1/24/2019 at 3:34 PM, geert_2 said:

    @Cloakfiend: I did some tests to see the effect of an *overdose* of acetone: I left these test pieces in acetone for several hours.

     

     

    Th overdose can be done in a matter of minutes. The heavy coat can be too heavy. but in my personal experience, hollow closed objects are far more likely to warp than open open models with no capped bottom. I've dealt with almost every type of scenario with acetone now, and it still takes a bit of thought  to do. The most important thing is to do one good coat and just leave it. Another thing is that its easier to sand afterwards which is a bonus.

     

    also good thing to note is If your model is hollow the acetone vapours can get trapped inside for weeks or months if you don't let it evaporate out nicely. Or whats happening is that the acetone has gone through the PLA layers into the model and as its sealing the plastic it touches, its effectively sealing in the acetone vapour as well. Id recommend trying to either open it up if possible or drill some air holes for the acetone to breath out from. I can see this on my metal plated objects, that I acetoned and plated the same day. Thats a nono if they are hollow, even if filled with plaster and left a while.

     

    Dipping for hours will totally dissolve the additives so the model will shrink as the additives dissolve. But to be honest i haven't done mega long dip tests because they are totally unnecessary as even a 50second dip can be way too long. Old Ultimaker filament was king. It shrunk less and never cracked. Its was so easy to use and worked in 15 seconds compared to colorfabbs longer dips which could potentially crack if dipped for longer, due to drying out.

     

    You can always try to add moisturiser but it won't last more than a few hours, dehydrated PLA absorbed moisturiser very quickly.

     

    dirty acetone acts differently to clean acetone as well, I haven't done that many test on this though.

     

    The main thing is doing closed object tests and hollow objects tests and weird infill object tests. The infill tends to collapse and drag the outer shell with it if the acetone vapour gets in. I learnt that from my alien model.

     

    Acetone penetrates far more than you think and keeps going for far longer than you think.. Someone said dishwasher liquid halts the chemical reaction, but i haven't tried to be honest. 

     

    It it a truly great method once you get the hang of it. for colourfabb you don't need more than a 40second dip in my opinion. but brushing also works. it all depends on the model and detail and shape of the model too.

     

    ....and if your model splits along the layer lines quite quickly then you have most likely not printed hot enough. but thats always debatable.

     

     

  18. Shouts out to active levelling and the large platform on the S5 to enable making such wonderfull objects!!!😜

     

    Shouts out to my awesome core cleaning skills too! Lol.

     

    Also shows the repeated reliability of the s5 considering this is only my 3rd  or 4th real dual colour print! the blocked core was my fault! So glad i could reliably unblock it too!

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