Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


neotko last won the day on December 31 2018

neotko had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,387 Excellent


About neotko

  • Birthday 09/14/1977

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

8,739 profile views
  1. neotko

    Idea for Rotate Setting

    Afaik that can be done pressing Shift while rotating?
  2. neotko

    Mi ultimaker 2+ se apaga de repente

    Mi experiencia personal es que o es el calentador que está casi muerto (prueba calentar a 220 sin imprimir nada y observa si pasa) o que la PSU de alimentación está fallando (más difícil de debuggear, pero puedes desenchufarla completamente y esperar 12h mínimo hasta que se descargue completamente la reserva de los capacitadores).
  3. @gr5 might have the good ones (TFM) on usa
  4. Just in case you ever notice weird underextrusion that you can’t debug (specially if you don’t use geared or bondtech motor feeder) I would suggest everyone to set the extruder on duet3d to disable the interpolation on the extruder To do so change the config.g extruder config to: M350 E16 I0 ; Disable interpolation on extruderM350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation for XYZ This way by splitting in two lines you can set I0 for no interpolation for the selected feeders and enable it for the rest. I had some issues with bad filament that comes very tight on the end of the spool and removing the interpolation I could regain enough torque to remove the issue.
  5. This is the stuff I'm finishing for 2019, they are hairpins in two colors that I do with an advanced Pause script that allows me to Atomic plug the filament totally unmanned and waits for me until I go to change the color and click resume. Ofc this is all thanks to Duet3D advanced pause that has Gcode to resume previous position and even Fan, hotend, etc temperatures. What's needed to make a plugging out of this? - Manual setting to define layer number (I know this already exists) - Script to insert the Previous temperature/FanSpeed & Position set by the slicer (so any changes while paused can be resumed if the user needs to move Z, move X/Y or prehead the nozzle to clean any previous color residue. This is important to resume the print without temporal changes affecting the real print. - Area to define custom gcode - for the Atomic - so the users can adjust the atomic pull sequence for their extruders. Mind that I use DirectDrive so I can change the color pretty fast without issues because also my extruder isn't behind the machine or hard to access. Mind that the M106 R1 or G4 S5 are specific Duet3D gcodes, so this can't be just copy-paste into a normal gcode print without manual editing. That's why ideally Cura could have a plugging to mimic all the automatic steps in order to make it user friendly. Check my twitter posts to see videos of how the process works: This is the post I made on Duet3D forums: For this, first I had to find the perfect momento to pause on the gcode. I use Skirt with 12 layers (the same amount of layers for the Pause layer) with 5mm distance and 2 Skirt Outlines (but I suppose for really tall prints it might be better to use 3). Then I do a search on the gcode (mind I use S3D) of the last "; skirt" Then I find something like this: ; skirt G1 X98.056 Y59.801 F10800 G1 Z2.480 F1500 G1 E0.0000 F1500 G92 E0 G1 X99.094 Y59.554 E0.0355 F4200 G1 X99.106 Y59.551 E0.0359 Being that last G1 the beginning of the Skirt Print So I ADD the M25 to do a Pause ; skirt G1 X98.056 Y59.801 F10800 G1 Z2.480 F1500 G1 E0.0000 F1500 G92 E0 G1 X99.094 Y59.554 E0.0355 F4200 M25 ; Pause REPEAT Speed of previous line on next so it knows what speed to resume G1 X99.106 Y59.551 E0.0359 F4200 ; ADDED F4200 HERE Doing this I can be sure that the extruder was on top of the Skirt before doing the pause, so if the filament Strings it won't dirt my print. Then the rest it's on the Duet3D macros. I edited my pause.g to work like this: ; pause.g ; called when a print from SD card is paused M83 ; relative extruder moves G1 E-3 F3600 ; retract 10mm of filament G91 ; relative positioning G1 Z5 F360 ; lift Z by 5mm G90 ; absolute positioning G1 X15 Y15 F10000 ; go to X=15 Y=15 M104 S120 T0 ; Sets to a generic LOW TEMP before calling PLAColdpull Macro G1 E5 F1600 ; Keeps pressure FAST Initial recovers from retract also M98 Preversecowmilking.g ; Calls the COLDPULL macro This is what I do on Resume.g ; resume.g ; called before a print from SD card is resumed M104 S225 T0 ; Sets general Print temp for PLA M109 S225 T0 ; Waits until it reaches 225 for PLA M83 ; relative extruder moves G1 E5 F100 ; Purgues 5mm where it was paused slow to realign gears G1 E5 F300 ; Purgues 5mm where it was paused normal G1 E-1 F2000 ; retracts 1mm before moving to resumed position G1 R1 Z1 F6000 ; go to 5mm above position of the last print move G1 R1 ; go back to the last print move M83 ; relative extruder moves And This is my ReverseCowMilking Macro (automated Coldpull) I add this macro on the SYSTEM area, otherwise I wasn't able to call it but I'm using an old 1.20RC3 version of the firmware so probably just an old bug ;reversecowmilking.g ; Semi automated coldpull for PLA M106 S200 ; SET FANS UP G10 P0 R70 S70 G4 S35 ; Wait 35 secs so the temperature reaches 160-170 if was a 225 M302 P1 ; ALLOW COLD EXTRUSIONS just in case G1 E2 F15 ; Push 2mm slow to keep pressure at semi able temperature M116 ; WAIT FOR TEMPERATURES SET TO ARRIVE before continuing M106 S0 ; SET FANS OFF G4 S5 ; wait for internal temperature to stabilize along filament ; starts milking the cow movement G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.2 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.4 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.6 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.8 - Enough to dislock filament from hotend M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-10 F50 ; retracts 10mm SLOW - To avoid breaking if bond if weak M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover G1 E-20 F800 ; retracts 20mm medium speed - Should keep integrity M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover G1 E-30 F2000 ; retracts 30mm fast - Should be able M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover ;G1 E-30 F2000 ; retracts 30mm ;M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder ;G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover M302 P0 ; DONT ALLOW COLD EXTRUSIONS M106 R1 ; RESTORE FAN SPEED BEFORE THE PAUSE NOTES I use directdrive with zge extruder, so the force, speed of the coldpull and timing should be totally different for bowden. I release the feeder constantly to allow the filament natural elasticity to go back so I can avoid grinding the filament I use Bondtech drivegears, so the filament grip it's perfect at all times. Macro comments might not be accurate because I been adjusting this many times until I was able to achieve enough repeatability on my 3 printers. Happy 2019 & enjoy printing
  6. neotko

    China's ancient buildings in tang dynasty

    So cool to see what an architect can achieve knowing how to print the parts. Great job!
  7. neotko

    Aluminum build plate update

    @korneel I write what I think. And if you want to tak twitter, go twitter. Hugs & kisses
  8. neotko

    NO Aluminum build plate.

    Then send emails to every customer that has one inviting them to join this post and give you feedback. Also, stop packaging new UM S5 with a second glass and wait for a decision and make it public not just on a forum post. Not gonna happen right? Prove me wrong please, show the face and stop saying a second glass is enough compared to a precision aluminum plate, that for example one from misumi of 7mm thickness and top flatness goes for 100-120€ minimum distributor price. So?
  9. neotko

    NO Aluminum build plate.

    Does that means that ONLY who complains gets something better than a glass? I really think UM should do better and release a proper release note instead of hiding this on the forum.
  10. neotko

    Aluminum build plate update

    Just buy a neoceram glass plate, cut to size and cheaper than UM parts. Also, from the point of view of giving 1 extra glass, it’s a bit of shameful. UM is aiming at pro market and can’t make their promises. I would understand that from e3d and prusa, but UM thinks of itself as ‘pro’ market. Ofc the buyers could make a legal use of the written promises and ask for more money than just a glass price. Just like what happens to any mayor market seller, if they fail they get sued, clear and simple. Ofc that didn’t happen when was the um2 and the promised second extruder upgrade because that wasn’t Pro market, but now? From the point of view of finding a good replacement I would buy a neoceram glass or vitroceramic glass, no expansion and very sturdy (many shops around the world sell cut to size hightemp glasses). Ofc the issue would be the bed sensor probably? Dunno.
  11. @Rastamonk77 and anyone else interested, I did upload a full step file assembled where you can pick anypart needed (I hope) 😄 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/neotko-fatiroberti-bondtech-feeder-for-um2-um3 File is: Um2plusbondtech Full175 & Um2plusbondtech Full285 - In Step format Happy editing! Cheers!
  12. Sorry can’t help much, I don’t use this feeder anymore so dunno. Maybe I can send you the step files so you play with the errors I made?
  13. You can set a tool Z offset to realign the Z. That’s specially necessary if you don’t have a calibration tool for the Z or if you keep the endstop at the bottom. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_G10_Tool_Offset Using this you can change the Z offset for the tool (you can do a T0 after changing the main tool Z offset on the config.g so this kicks in). I moved the endstop to the top to avoid using this specially because the endstop at the bottom makes the Z repetition less accurate (heat, distance, etc can add 0.1 error that for me is not good enough). With an endstop on top, without the metal and a small plastic part to hit the sensor directly my endstop accuracy is near 0.025 max error. So yeah I prefer the endstop on the top not the bottom like um2. Another trick to calibrate the bed fast is to do a M18 X Y that will unlock the x and y motors so you can move it by hand and realign the z calibration knobs really fast without the bed assistant stuff. Anyhow mimicking it is quite easy with macros, but IMO totally unnecessary
  14. Tinkergnome did an awesome job to push the um2 firmware that for sure. But the hardware is what it is. Duet3D can do more (and expand to more extruders/tools) and types of heat sensors (the cheap ones or use pt100 with their sensor boards (I use that)) To adapt the tinkergnome to duet3D toolchange theres one challenge that I never did test. The PSU is on the limit for dual, tinkergnome did an awesome job balancing the power use & the heat sequence. But all that could be mimicked with some reverse engineering & using the macros. Duet3D allows to set a max power use for each bed/heaters, so it shouldn’t be more complex that setting the right limit (this is something marlin doesn’t do). The advantage is that changing stuff is just gcode txt editing that can be done through the www access of the duet3D. So in terms of trial/error it speeds things up quite a lot compared to firmware-flash-test
  15. I agree on this 100% duet3D give to that printers (that are open source and people work on features ACTIVELY) will give you more for your buck. Think that while UM gives profiles (their argument) and ‘tuned’ that’s only a reality for um3-umS that are the focus of UM now. UM hasn’t updated hardware or firmware for um2 in 3 years and much less their basic firmware (because they think isn’t needed and also they don’t make € from that). Railcore is a very interesting machine, with a really sturdy frame up to big speeds. And E3D multitool is a nice idea for dual/multitool stuff (but is more dependent on the user and less click/print). If you want to learn and get your hands dirty go for any of this 2. You will get more printer (and better frame speeds and hardware) for almost the same or less €/$ Duet3D big advantages is that can grown and personally what I love is that rebuilding the firmware is as easy as editing a gcode/txt file and clicking the reset button. Also their boards have been tested by many for years now and they are rock solid. And last point, a new um2 board is around 250€ and you get atmega, old & noisy steppers. The only UM machine with silent chips is the UMS and well... that’s for other post ?

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!