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Everything posted by neotko

  1. @gr5 might have the good ones (TFM) on usa
  2. PDF READY VERSION AT: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-upgrade-on-umo-assembly-manual Well I finally got one UM2kit and I'm getting ready to install it on one of my umo+. So far everything it's just very plug and play. @Meduza Addon's to install it on Umo+ Rotated printhead https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-for-umo Feeder adaptor https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-extrusion-upgrade-kit-mount-for-umo I'll post more as soon I get my hands dirty this weekend, but since the printed parts are ready I suppose it won't take much time, unless I stop for an ice-cream or a coffee. I'm also making slideblocks to use the longer um2 shafts, and I'll try to advance in that direction after the basic installation it's done and running. For more on that go to: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21074-beyond-slideblocks-for-umo-to-use-um2-shafts-hotend First steps - Setting all ready Hotend Before starting. You will need to be sure that the printed part x4 screw holes are clean and the long hotend screws are clean. If not, use a 3mm drill bit or a file (or the screws until they pass clean and smoothly. Take out the bowden and the clip from the um2+ hotend. Unscrew the x4 long screws and take out the top of the hotend black plastic. Don't worry the bottom part with the coupler, nozzle and all that won't move a bit, that part it's independent on um2/um2+ hotend. Then take out the um2 top and replace it with the new printed part. BUT remember to ROTATE it 90 Degrees, so the top bearing it's facing you. Make sure that the back CABLES ain't being crush and they are just like they where when we started this. I must say that it's almost imposible to crush them since they are really neatly installed, but better safe than sorry. Insert the bowden clip, bowden and blue thingy. Ok, hotend ready to use. Let's do some other stuff. Feeder time The metal adaptor that comes with the upgrade kit won't be needed for umo+. Just the white feeder part. Get x4 m3 10mm and screw the motor to the feeder hanger. After that, you need to secure the white gear feeder to the meduza adaptor. This time you need x2 nuts and x2 m3 14-16mm. You could even use 20mm or longer for this since they won't touch anything but to make it look clean try to use 14-16mm. Ok feeder done. One think I noticed @meduza it's that there's no clearance to grip the cable later on. So this part might need a little bit of adjustment. Anyhow isn't biggie. Time to update the hardware  First, disconnect the power and make sure there’s no residual power on the machine (do a turn on/off while unplugged) Take out the board Wooden cover This part depends on what model of board you have, 2.1.1 needs a flat screw driver while 2.1.4 have a different clamp system for the Heater. Unscrew the heater 1 cables  Relax the velcro fastening.  Take out Temp 1 sensor.  If you installed it like me, with the pt100 behind the board, you will need to unscrew the board a bit so there’s wiggle room to pull it out. Move the bed to the z if needed.  Pt100 disconnected fully  Unplug the fan cable. Same as before, if you installed behind the board you know the drill.  Cables ready to take out, pt100, heater, fan.  Pull out the 3 cables, you won’t need them anytime soon.  Disconnect feeder 1 motor  To take the feeder 1 cable out it’s better to push with the fingernail on the top of the plastic, this way you make sure you don’t pull the cables out of the connector.  Time to pull out the feeder motor and from the frame too. Save it for a rainy day.  Hang the new feeder motor with it’s adaptor and pass the cable trough and plug it where the old feeder was.  Fix the hotend somewhere safe so you can work with the new um2+ hotend cables. They come with a tape so it’s very easy to pull them trough the hole.  Since the cables come with a snake’s skin protector, you can avoid to insert them on the umo+ guide, also it’s much easier to remove if sometime goes wront.  Ok cables in.  Stick the cables on a side and pick the heater cables to install then.  Install heater 1 IMPORTANT STEP. Now the PT100, I really recommend to pass it behind the board. Pass it behind the board, if you didn’t unscrew a bit the board (from inside the machine, not the ones outside) you can do it now. Use sometime to pass the cable behind. I used the tweezers I use to pick the filament when it purges.  Connect the pt100. As you can see the cable reach perfectly, but there’s very little wiggle room, that’s why it’s important to pass it behind the board.  Now the fan. Cable yellow/green colores with a molex. Same as the pt100, pass it behind the board.  And now plug it  IMPORTANT STEP This might be a new connector for some of you, this one it’s the 5v hotend fan. If you have a 2.1.1 this little fan (it’s almost noise-less, for real) will stay on always. On 2.1.4 boards it won’t start until the hotend reaches 40C.  It only has one way to be plugged in  Now you can push up the board and tight the screws again. Remember to push the board up I did forgot and had to do it later…  Allright!! Now short the cables, use the velcro fastening thingy and rearrange a bit the mess.  Hotend time! Since I use Twisterblocks this step it’s very very fast. For users with standard wooden blocks, go to the page 54 of the Ultimaker Original Plus Assembly Manual It’s a very easy and fast step, so don’t worry.  UMO+ hotend out! Take the x/y shafts. It’s a good moment to clean them with a fiberless cloth.  You should have the hotend and feeder ready to save them for a rainy day. Bag them so they don’t get dust.  Time to install the new um2+ hotend!!  Secure the hotend. Basically the step you did to dissasemble the slideblocks, but reverse it.  Everything almost ready!  Remember to recalibrate x/y. With my twisterblocks I didn’t had to do it, but with the original wood blocks you will need to do this. if you forgot how to do it. It’s a very good video!  Time to adjust the firmware! Set the Esteps on to 369.0 (Control / Motion & scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img. Now the PID of the hotend. (Control / Temperature / scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img.  Remember to save them!  Thinks that are different. UM2+ Fans don’t start to move until they reach 100/255, so you will need to readjust your cooling settings. Ultimaker 2 Firmware has a KICKSTART at 200millisec (keep reading about this on the next point) and a minimum pwm of 20. So for UMO+ you need the Amedee custom firmware builder to make it work easier. The best custom umo+ firmware builder it’s made by @amedee. Read the basic tutorial I made at Ultimaker Original custom firmware builder. Remember to realign the Z! Also if you plan to use I2K to go higher than 260C you will need to install a custom firmware. Enjoy!!!
  3. Just in case you ever notice weird underextrusion that you can’t debug (specially if you don’t use geared or bondtech motor feeder) I would suggest everyone to set the extruder on duet3d to disable the interpolation on the extruder To do so change the config.g extruder config to: M350 E16 I0 ; Disable interpolation on extruderM350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation for XYZ This way by splitting in two lines you can set I0 for no interpolation for the selected feeders and enable it for the rest. I had some issues with bad filament that comes very tight on the end of the spool and removing the interpolation I could regain enough torque to remove the issue.
  4. This is the stuff I'm finishing for 2019, they are hairpins in two colors that I do with an advanced Pause script that allows me to Atomic plug the filament totally unmanned and waits for me until I go to change the color and click resume. Ofc this is all thanks to Duet3D advanced pause that has Gcode to resume previous position and even Fan, hotend, etc temperatures. What's needed to make a plugging out of this? - Manual setting to define layer number (I know this already exists) - Script to insert the Previous temperature/FanSpeed & Position set by the slicer (so any changes while paused can be resumed if the user needs to move Z, move X/Y or prehead the nozzle to clean any previous color residue. This is important to resume the print without temporal changes affecting the real print. - Area to define custom gcode - for the Atomic - so the users can adjust the atomic pull sequence for their extruders. Mind that I use DirectDrive so I can change the color pretty fast without issues because also my extruder isn't behind the machine or hard to access. Mind that the M106 R1 or G4 S5 are specific Duet3D gcodes, so this can't be just copy-paste into a normal gcode print without manual editing. That's why ideally Cura could have a plugging to mimic all the automatic steps in order to make it user friendly. Check my twitter posts to see videos of how the process works: This is the post I made on Duet3D forums: For this, first I had to find the perfect momento to pause on the gcode. I use Skirt with 12 layers (the same amount of layers for the Pause layer) with 5mm distance and 2 Skirt Outlines (but I suppose for really tall prints it might be better to use 3). Then I do a search on the gcode (mind I use S3D) of the last "; skirt" Then I find something like this: ; skirt G1 X98.056 Y59.801 F10800 G1 Z2.480 F1500 G1 E0.0000 F1500 G92 E0 G1 X99.094 Y59.554 E0.0355 F4200 G1 X99.106 Y59.551 E0.0359 Being that last G1 the beginning of the Skirt Print So I ADD the M25 to do a Pause ; skirt G1 X98.056 Y59.801 F10800 G1 Z2.480 F1500 G1 E0.0000 F1500 G92 E0 G1 X99.094 Y59.554 E0.0355 F4200 M25 ; Pause REPEAT Speed of previous line on next so it knows what speed to resume G1 X99.106 Y59.551 E0.0359 F4200 ; ADDED F4200 HERE Doing this I can be sure that the extruder was on top of the Skirt before doing the pause, so if the filament Strings it won't dirt my print. Then the rest it's on the Duet3D macros. I edited my pause.g to work like this: ; pause.g ; called when a print from SD card is paused M83 ; relative extruder moves G1 E-3 F3600 ; retract 10mm of filament G91 ; relative positioning G1 Z5 F360 ; lift Z by 5mm G90 ; absolute positioning G1 X15 Y15 F10000 ; go to X=15 Y=15 M104 S120 T0 ; Sets to a generic LOW TEMP before calling PLAColdpull Macro G1 E5 F1600 ; Keeps pressure FAST Initial recovers from retract also M98 Preversecowmilking.g ; Calls the COLDPULL macro This is what I do on Resume.g ; resume.g ; called before a print from SD card is resumed M104 S225 T0 ; Sets general Print temp for PLA M109 S225 T0 ; Waits until it reaches 225 for PLA M83 ; relative extruder moves G1 E5 F100 ; Purgues 5mm where it was paused slow to realign gears G1 E5 F300 ; Purgues 5mm where it was paused normal G1 E-1 F2000 ; retracts 1mm before moving to resumed position G1 R1 Z1 F6000 ; go to 5mm above position of the last print move G1 R1 ; go back to the last print move M83 ; relative extruder moves And This is my ReverseCowMilking Macro (automated Coldpull) I add this macro on the SYSTEM area, otherwise I wasn't able to call it but I'm using an old 1.20RC3 version of the firmware so probably just an old bug ;reversecowmilking.g ; Semi automated coldpull for PLA M106 S200 ; SET FANS UP G10 P0 R70 S70 G4 S35 ; Wait 35 secs so the temperature reaches 160-170 if was a 225 M302 P1 ; ALLOW COLD EXTRUSIONS just in case G1 E2 F15 ; Push 2mm slow to keep pressure at semi able temperature M116 ; WAIT FOR TEMPERATURES SET TO ARRIVE before continuing M106 S0 ; SET FANS OFF G4 S5 ; wait for internal temperature to stabilize along filament ; starts milking the cow movement G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.2 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.4 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.6 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.8 - Enough to dislock filament from hotend M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-10 F50 ; retracts 10mm SLOW - To avoid breaking if bond if weak M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover G1 E-20 F800 ; retracts 20mm medium speed - Should keep integrity M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover G1 E-30 F2000 ; retracts 30mm fast - Should be able M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover ;G1 E-30 F2000 ; retracts 30mm ;M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder ;G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover M302 P0 ; DONT ALLOW COLD EXTRUSIONS M106 R1 ; RESTORE FAN SPEED BEFORE THE PAUSE NOTES I use directdrive with zge extruder, so the force, speed of the coldpull and timing should be totally different for bowden. I release the feeder constantly to allow the filament natural elasticity to go back so I can avoid grinding the filament I use Bondtech drivegears, so the filament grip it's perfect at all times. Macro comments might not be accurate because I been adjusting this many times until I was able to achieve enough repeatability on my 3 printers. Happy 2019 & enjoy printing
  5. neotko

    China's ancient buildings in tang dynasty

    So cool to see what an architect can achieve knowing how to print the parts. Great job!
  6. neotko

    Aluminum build plate update

    @korneel I write what I think. And if you want to tak twitter, go twitter. Hugs & kisses
  7. neotko

    NO Aluminum build plate.

    Then send emails to every customer that has one inviting them to join this post and give you feedback. Also, stop packaging new UM S5 with a second glass and wait for a decision and make it public not just on a forum post. Not gonna happen right? Prove me wrong please, show the face and stop saying a second glass is enough compared to a precision aluminum plate, that for example one from misumi of 7mm thickness and top flatness goes for 100-120€ minimum distributor price. So?
  8. neotko

    NO Aluminum build plate.

    Does that means that ONLY who complains gets something better than a glass? I really think UM should do better and release a proper release note instead of hiding this on the forum.
  9. neotko

    Aluminum build plate update

    Just buy a neoceram glass plate, cut to size and cheaper than UM parts. Also, from the point of view of giving 1 extra glass, it’s a bit of shameful. UM is aiming at pro market and can’t make their promises. I would understand that from e3d and prusa, but UM thinks of itself as ‘pro’ market. Ofc the buyers could make a legal use of the written promises and ask for more money than just a glass price. Just like what happens to any mayor market seller, if they fail they get sued, clear and simple. Ofc that didn’t happen when was the um2 and the promised second extruder upgrade because that wasn’t Pro market, but now? From the point of view of finding a good replacement I would buy a neoceram glass or vitroceramic glass, no expansion and very sturdy (many shops around the world sell cut to size hightemp glasses). Ofc the issue would be the bed sensor probably? Dunno.
  10. Neotko FatIRobertI Bondtech Adapter Feeder for UM2+ / UM3 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/neotko-fatiroberti-bondtech-feeder-for-um2-um3 Basically I wanted to have dual @Bondtech drivegears on my UM3. But buying two full kits is around 300€, by doing this design I could use the 40€ drivegears Bondtech sells (40€ each ofc) and change my 2 feeders reusing the Geared Extruder system from the UM3. Downside? To avoid the feeder from hitting the spool, you need to reverse the motors direction. Easiest way is by changing the First two color cables from 1234 to 2134. If you don't know how to do this you could use a different spool feeder so it doesn't hit the release arm. But that's up to you... Print Mirroed if that's your plan for a UM2+. Use supports for anything 50degrees or more. Also use 50% Support Density, or the nut holes will print badly. Same goes for the feeder arm, and areas that do need support. I didn't design my supports just because I didn't saw it necessary. Used default S3D support settings with 50% support density and all worked perfectly and was very easy to remove them. Feeder print settings use 2 perimeters and 20% infill should be more than ok. I use 24% because that's why I use. The inside area between the part a-b should hold a ptfe liner from a bowden tube (maybe one that broke and you have for a rainy day?). If you can't do that, it might be problematic to feed the filament since is designed this way for many reasons. Printable Shaft Adapter The Printable-Shaft-Adapter MUST be printed at 80-90 infill, rotated 45 Degrees and without supports of any kind. Also 2-3 perimeters and I used -0.03 horizontal expansion to print this part (not the feeder) and also used 0.15 layer height, 0.2 could work, but this part must be printed slow and with precision. That's why I used Extrudr GreenTec (high temp pla that goes up to 110C without a issue). I don't think this part would work with ABS (because the flexibility) or normal PLA (because the heat deformation), but you are free to test anything you like! This part uses a m3 30mm inside, you will notice that the screw passes soft until the end, that part need's to be screw in, don't force it, is made to fit perfectly. If something fails, your filament size might not be correct, check it with a caliper. Also CHECK that the bondtech gears passes without too much friction, because you will need to readjust the position after assembling all to align the feeder line so all works perfectly. Is a basic calibration process. Something like this: Inserting a filament after all is assembled will show you clearly if all is perfectly aligned. If not, release the bondtech gear and align it and rescrew it. The same way you would do on any feeder... @Gudo made me a few small shaft CNC. Without his help I might not have finished this feeder so fast. Also I got the idea of using a printed shaft adapter by talking to him. So many thanks @Gudo !!! To print the Feeder use 0.18 or less, but it doesn't need more resolution. 0.2 is possible but I don't like how the part where the filament passes looks. 0.18 was perfect on all the test prints while making this. To print the second Core extruder mirror all the parts. There are 3 Versions. - 1.75mm using 6mm-4mm bowden - 1.75mm using 4mm-2mm bowden - 2.85mm using 6-3mm classic UM bowden To use this feeder you need - Bondtech Drive gears (the big ones, no the thin ones I used for the other FatIRobertI feeder. - 4mm Shaft 22mm long (bondtech sells them too) is where the mirror gear spins. - screws, nuts, screwdriver... This Feeder could be really really fast adapted to use MK8, but would need a change on the IRobertI Arm to fit the UM2+/UM3 feeder bearing. I did use a spring that Bondtech did sell before that isn't included now. If they don't sell it to you (asking never hurts) you can reuse the UM2+/um3 spring, but mind that you will need a M3 35-40mm to use it. Also the force of the spring is quite too much from what is necessary for bondtech gears, so.. mind the force. Important about the Hands part. You will need quite force to fit the 4mm shaft of the mirror gear. I used a Vice bench. Tested on 9 prototypes, it works, and works perfectly. BUT TRIPLE check that you align all before doing this, because it won't be any easy to unclamp it, and most of the time it needs so much force that the arms break (very easy to reprint part). Also, READ the photo, you need to put the feeder part near the thin part of the arms, it's on purpose and is really necessary. Why? Too tired to explain Note You will need to download the LATCH from the IRobertI original design https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
  11. @Rastamonk77 and anyone else interested, I did upload a full step file assembled where you can pick anypart needed (I hope) 😄 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/neotko-fatiroberti-bondtech-feeder-for-um2-um3 File is: Um2plusbondtech Full175 & Um2plusbondtech Full285 - In Step format Happy editing! Cheers!
  12. Sorry can’t help much, I don’t use this feeder anymore so dunno. Maybe I can send you the step files so you play with the errors I made?
  13. You can set a tool Z offset to realign the Z. That’s specially necessary if you don’t have a calibration tool for the Z or if you keep the endstop at the bottom. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_G10_Tool_Offset Using this you can change the Z offset for the tool (you can do a T0 after changing the main tool Z offset on the config.g so this kicks in). I moved the endstop to the top to avoid using this specially because the endstop at the bottom makes the Z repetition less accurate (heat, distance, etc can add 0.1 error that for me is not good enough). With an endstop on top, without the metal and a small plastic part to hit the sensor directly my endstop accuracy is near 0.025 max error. So yeah I prefer the endstop on the top not the bottom like um2. Another trick to calibrate the bed fast is to do a M18 X Y that will unlock the x and y motors so you can move it by hand and realign the z calibration knobs really fast without the bed assistant stuff. Anyhow mimicking it is quite easy with macros, but IMO totally unnecessary
  14. Tinkergnome did an awesome job to push the um2 firmware that for sure. But the hardware is what it is. Duet3D can do more (and expand to more extruders/tools) and types of heat sensors (the cheap ones or use pt100 with their sensor boards (I use that)) To adapt the tinkergnome to duet3D toolchange theres one challenge that I never did test. The PSU is on the limit for dual, tinkergnome did an awesome job balancing the power use & the heat sequence. But all that could be mimicked with some reverse engineering & using the macros. Duet3D allows to set a max power use for each bed/heaters, so it shouldn’t be more complex that setting the right limit (this is something marlin doesn’t do). The advantage is that changing stuff is just gcode txt editing that can be done through the www access of the duet3D. So in terms of trial/error it speeds things up quite a lot compared to firmware-flash-test
  15. I agree on this 100% duet3D give to that printers (that are open source and people work on features ACTIVELY) will give you more for your buck. Think that while UM gives profiles (their argument) and ‘tuned’ that’s only a reality for um3-umS that are the focus of UM now. UM hasn’t updated hardware or firmware for um2 in 3 years and much less their basic firmware (because they think isn’t needed and also they don’t make € from that). Railcore is a very interesting machine, with a really sturdy frame up to big speeds. And E3D multitool is a nice idea for dual/multitool stuff (but is more dependent on the user and less click/print). If you want to learn and get your hands dirty go for any of this 2. You will get more printer (and better frame speeds and hardware) for almost the same or less €/$ Duet3D big advantages is that can grown and personally what I love is that rebuilding the firmware is as easy as editing a gcode/txt file and clicking the reset button. Also their boards have been tested by many for years now and they are rock solid. And last point, a new um2 board is around 250€ and you get atmega, old & noisy steppers. The only UM machine with silent chips is the UMS and well... that’s for other post ?
  16. Its WAY more quiet Prints better since doesn’t has the 16 moves/second bottleneck of the 16bit atmegas. The wifi/net control works great, you can make macros to automate stuff as you want like I did to pause/atomic pull/swap color/resume
  17. neotko

    Issues with UMO+ Board

    That’s the issue umo+ uses 24V for the fans, so either the fans died or the pwm transistor died (most probably the first option than the second). To use 12V fans on umo+ you need to connect them Serial not parallel
  18. The heatsink you use is the same sold on AliExpress for um3 ?
  19. Most probably, specially because umo+/um2 use square flanged bearings and the aluminum has holes where we screw to to distribute the tension. But nothing too hard to adapt for yours
  20. I have 2 new versions that work better than his old design. We developed a holder behind the bed (like skis) that keep the weight distribution better. Gudo also on his last version of the gudoXYCore made a new bed stabilizer that mixed my skis design with a compensation system. I will dig into his step files and try to come with a version to publish.
  21. neotko

    CC Print core Red 0.6mm

    Is that new? Never seen that indeed on the um3 I had or on the um2plua feeders
  22. neotko

    CC Print core Red 0.6mm

    Indeed and I would agree on that except: a) You propose a full replacement solution (ergo doesn’t matter if you break the old one) b) Isn’t that difficult (specially because um3 feeder doesn’t have filament sensor) & there’s a nice step by step guide here https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder
  23. neotko

    CC Print core Red 0.6mm

    You can always try other shops... Anyway I doubt you couldn’t buy just this parts to an official reseller...?
  24. neotko

    CC Print core Red 0.6mm

    Correct me if I’m wrong but afaik UM since the um3 doesn’t sell small parta in general, but if you ask your UM friends for the correct part number you might be lucky. Ofc you could buy a new feeder for an affordable 95€ (motor-less?) http://ultimaker.utopica3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=625
  25. neotko

    Another take on ringing

    If I get your idea, basically you want the slicer to do motion dampening acceleration by already assuming the ranges on which the printer works? Something like this? Ofc the slicer should take into consideration the motion of tge board an compensate accordingly? Sounds like a great idea. Anyhow I see a real issue of the base of how the very old motion planner executes the extrusion. For perimeters (and 90%) of the thingiverses should indeed work. The slicer should then add an AI layer to distinguish between the big outside areas and the small details, to avoid getting under/over extrusion due extruder planner. Also, old atmegas would suffer BIG time from continuous changes on speeds to mimic a motion dampening.

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