Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

neotko

Expert
  • Content Count

    4,788
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    93

Everything posted by neotko

  1. The firmware (more than just a marlin firmware since it uses marlin as it where a printer driver) you can download it and change it by yourself (is very well documented). The problem is that is signed so you can’t make your own firmware pack. To avoid this, years ago a UM guy answered my prayers (or head bangs) good hunt! This was written by Oliver on http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?t=12&hilit=Um3+firmware+signed&start=930#top Sorry to reply so late, anyhow.The printers are indeed not shipped with the micro SD card in use. However any OS you put there, will be booted first. Iow, the microSD card has priority over the onboard storage. Since we use an A20, I would suggest to head over to http://linux-sunxi.org to get familiar for the low level stuff.Alternatively, to install a 'custom iamge', it is true, we do not want to make it too easy. Not because we don't want people to experiment, on the contrary, but we have to protect our general users from themselves (or mischievous users?). When updating via the Menu (either via the internet or via a USB stick) the firmware does indeed need to be signed. The GUI checks the signature. But that's it. If you want to manually deploy a custom image, it would work something like:1) enable developer mode2) scp your rootfs.tar.xz to /tmp/rootfs.tar.xz3) run 'systemctl isolate update.rootfs.target' on the printer, which can be done either via the serial console, ssh or execute the command remotely (over ssh).This will install a custom firmware onto the machine. For small changes, as Jaime mentioned, you can just ssh in and modify/copy files.
  2. Meanwell PSU 24V a UltimakerBoard (AliExpress has cheap options (I did use 2 long ago and they work) Pt100 and 24v heater and hotend with a proper olsson You will need to (for quality) change the belts from MXL to GT2 (google many post about that on this forum) Central shafts of umo and um2 have different size, check my thingiverse neotko account for a sliderblock that allows to use them with mxl or gt2 belts (saves money on shafts) Ofc a new bed, new square flanged bearings for the um2 bed, it can buy bought at any um reseller as um2 bed kit afaik or in parts on aliexpress (um2 bed kit comes with everything even the bearings but at a cost). For the parts check the um2 assembly manual on github to see it. Or even better check the umo+ upgrade kit assembly to see how to assemble the bed and all the parts it uses. Overall is a lot of stuff, specially umo to um2, but like everything with time and money is doable 😄
  3. check the feeder for dust, maybe the bolt isn’t grabbing the filament?
  4. I would start with the basics, if you are not use to play with print speed and mm3 start with a print speed/temp test https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-temperature-fillament-test
  5. If you change a parameter (light layer height) you need to compensate the temperature to compensate the extra mm3/s The higher the layer, the more material extruded each second, so the hotend needs higher temperature to keep the pace. Try 5-10C more
  6. All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725
  7. Shouldn’t be easier to use the camera to actually detect that....? If the area around the nozzle become block send an alert... check every z change or nozzle swap, and done
  8. Or just fix the objects https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Free service and can fix almost anything
  9. Is much easier to apply the spray to a paper towel outside and rub it on the plate. Removes the bed alignment problem 3DLac is basically Nely Strong hairspray 3€ (made by the same company under other name) Smartmaterials smartstick works even with PP but is quite a mess to remove (but sticks to everything I have try). Bed adhesion sheets made from PE by Avery ) a4 laser printable stickers) work really nice and with windowasher you can reuse them a lot tpe, tpu, just heat the bed to 35 to remove it slowly and not break it, ofc they break after 10-15 uses and is a mess to replace and remove the glue. That’s my 2 cents ;D
  10. um3 and mark2 can work with 25W heaters and the bed, but with very wise heating timing to avoid using too much at the same time. So... dunno XD I bet someone does, electronics isn’t my forte at all XD
  11. Maybe that info is on the electronics of the bed github https://github.com/Ultimaker/HeatedBedUpgrade/tree/master/1155_Print_Table_Heated_Bed_(x1)
  12. Sure will upload it this week
  13. Added Gudo XY Core for UM2GO that has a couple of little treassures - Adds a smooth rod to the X for extra rigidity - Has his Bed BELT driven mod. I never tested this, but he was Very happy with this, very interesting mod treassure. This mod can be used on any UMO+ UM2 as long as you have the motor (bondtech style one for force) and you adjust the belt size etc. - Gudo also included a couple of extra images of how to assemble stuff, very important to have at hand for a build of either version
  14. Gudo last design and the normal evolution of the ZGE https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153081 Cheers every1
  15. Uploaded Gudo Xy Core files https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4153081 Also, special thanks to @foehnsturm. I did put Gudo and Him in contact years ago and they talked about how to improve and make the XY motors belt tensioning system, one of the key parts for this CoreXY to work as nciely as it does. If you don't know Foehnsturm, he's the guy that came with the Mark2 Tool changer and one of the most brilliant guys I know. I won't answer any question about how to build it. For questions, use the twitter account, so everything stays public, also I will not answer any PM about this 🙂 Cheers and happy modding!
  16. Duet3D doesn't work like Marlin boards, so to change the entire 'firmware' you just write come gcode settings on the config.gcode on the sd card of the board, and done. This means, that you can make your printer corexy, use one heater, redirect the heaters, sensors, change acceleration, max temp, min, everything just from a config.gcode with the orders, you can set the max, min x/y/x all there For example (and if you have any doubt as what makes what, duet3d has a very big help page with info about every code) Mind that this is MY config, for a corexy machine that uses 3 endstops and Z endstop is on the top, like old umo and umo+ (make's stuff easier, but if you buy a Z sensor like btouch you can just use that as homing stuff) Also the duet3D is a very big makers community, so they can give you help, not step by step, but help after you start having questions about what sensor works better, etc. And yes, duet3D runs my bed and hotends one board, one psu, and lots of cables :D! ; General preferences M111 S0 ; Debugging off M667 S1 ; Set Corexy mode G21 ; Work in millimetres G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima M208 X205 Y223 Z192 S0 ; Set axis maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 Y2 Z1 S0 ; Define active low and unused microswitches ; Drives M569 P0 S0 ; X Drive 0 goes backwards M569 P1 S0 ; Y Drive 1 goes forwards M569 P2 S1 ; Z Drive 2 goes forwards M569 P3 S0 ; E Drive 3 goes forwards M350 E16 I0 ; Disable interpolation on extruder M350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation for XYZ M92 X80 Y80 Z400 E93.4 ; Set steps per mm M566 X1000 Y1000 Z240 E550 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X12000 Y12000 Z1200 E5000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X2750 Y2750 Z100 E10000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) M204 P3000 T3000 M906 X1250 Y1250 Z1200 E1250 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S60 ; Set idle timeout ; Heaters M301 H0 S1.00 P10 I0.1 D200 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning) M143 S275 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 275C M301 H0 S1.00 P124.55 I23.46 D165.29 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning) M301 H1 S1.00 P10.03 I1.5 D70 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning) M305 P0 T10000 B3988 C0 R400 X200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0 and remap it to channel 200 M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R400 X201 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 and remap it to channel 201 ; Tools M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C ; Network ;wifi in here I did set my start etc M550 PUMODUET3 ; Set machine name M552 S1 ; Fans M106 P0 S0 I0 F250 L15 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off M106 P1 S0.5 I0 F250 H1 T10 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on M106 P2 S1 I0 F250 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on ; Custom settings are not configured M501 ; read heater pids
  17. And S3D, and basically, each font size is separated on a process and each process uses a different nozzle size, even if you use 0.4 nozzle you (depending on the precision of the extruder and issues from a bowden) you could do 0.32-0.36 without getting stringing (if your extruder can do it without breaking the filament). That's why I use directdrive and bondtech feeder. To do tiny fonts you need the extrusion as precise as possible, ofc you can also ramp down the temperature and print them slow to get almost the same effect, but will need tunning. The outline overlap is a weird setting, for example for 4.2mm fonts I use single extrusion infill and force 1 perimeter to avoid getting both mixed, or for 2.8 I force gap infill and play with the settings until I get a crisp gcode preview. This ofc assuming the filament is close to perfect, a filament error of +0.06 will make your tests a mess, so is all about finding the balance, the smaller the text the harder is to get repetition
  18. Yea your reseller did lie. They are ‘open’ up to a point but they don’t share, for example, the firmware build or how disable the firmware key (to easily build your own firmware) ofc they do share info about how to do it. For um3 firmware key disable (no idea if works same on S3) check (can’t find the url with the post..) Without access to the firmware any hardware mod will be pita since um3/s3 doesn’t allow to easily force other gcode and that means that even the heating sequence (bed, core cartridges) can’t be changed. Good luck with the modding! But one important factor is that you can ask directly to um employees through the forum, so maybe they can help you reach your goal
  19. Gudo made a version for dual, very doable for um3 style dual. He also made de design for a BCN 3D style. It could even be great for prusa style to weight (but ofc that machines problem is the bed weight Y moves)
  20. Your first layer is too close to the bed (clearly visible on how that brims shows transparency). That makes the filament buildup and it fixes as soon there’s room for the excess to crawl (non solid layers). make a first proper layer and it should fix itself
  21. With this summer nothing is an overkill. Ofc I prefer my duet3Ds 😄
  22. So you can remove the initial purge, that’s nice. My comment was focused on the real day-to-day prints on dual color where you need a prime tower + skirt. Ofc there’s area around the towers that can be used, but not for squareshape print arra
  23. Well, real, actually (real life) print area is smaller since you need to consider purge (start) and prime (if dual) and a brim/skirt (useful since the purged material can be dragged by the nozzle (and it’s better that is dragged to the skirt/brim than the real print area. so.. Less, much less 🙂
  24. I’m my personal experience the bootup of um2 boards usually are due a bad heater. It’s easy to debug, heat bed for X minutes (same as the time needed to reboot while printing). Then turn off. Then heat hotend for the same time (or more ofc). Then finally if doesn’t fail heat both hotend and bed for X minutes, if only then fails it might be the psu, otherwise is a heater block
  25. The slower the acceleration and jerk the bigger the issue. Assuming you have a um2 it should be 3000/20 Try to print it rotated 45 degrees. If the problem goes away I would triple check also x/y alignment of the axis
×
×
  • Create New...