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neotko

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Everything posted by neotko

  1. Duet3D doesn't work like Marlin boards, so to change the entire 'firmware' you just write come gcode settings on the config.gcode on the sd card of the board, and done. This means, that you can make your printer corexy, use one heater, redirect the heaters, sensors, change acceleration, max temp, min, everything just from a config.gcode with the orders, you can set the max, min x/y/x all there For example (and if you have any doubt as what makes what, duet3d has a very big help page with info about every code) Mind that this is MY config, for a corexy machine that uses 3 endstops and Z endstop is on the top, like old umo and umo+ (make's stuff easier, but if you buy a Z sensor like btouch you can just use that as homing stuff) Also the duet3D is a very big makers community, so they can give you help, not step by step, but help after you start having questions about what sensor works better, etc. And yes, duet3D runs my bed and hotends one board, one psu, and lots of cables :D! ; General preferences M111 S0 ; Debugging off M667 S1 ; Set Corexy mode G21 ; Work in millimetres G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima M208 X205 Y223 Z192 S0 ; Set axis maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 Y2 Z1 S0 ; Define active low and unused microswitches ; Drives M569 P0 S0 ; X Drive 0 goes backwards M569 P1 S0 ; Y Drive 1 goes forwards M569 P2 S1 ; Z Drive 2 goes forwards M569 P3 S0 ; E Drive 3 goes forwards M350 E16 I0 ; Disable interpolation on extruder M350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation for XYZ M92 X80 Y80 Z400 E93.4 ; Set steps per mm M566 X1000 Y1000 Z240 E550 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X12000 Y12000 Z1200 E5000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X2750 Y2750 Z100 E10000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) M204 P3000 T3000 M906 X1250 Y1250 Z1200 E1250 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S60 ; Set idle timeout ; Heaters M301 H0 S1.00 P10 I0.1 D200 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning) M143 S275 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 275C M301 H0 S1.00 P124.55 I23.46 D165.29 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning) M301 H1 S1.00 P10.03 I1.5 D70 T0.4 W180 B30 ; Use PID on bed heater (may require further tuning) M305 P0 T10000 B3988 C0 R400 X200 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0 and remap it to channel 200 M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R400 X201 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 and remap it to channel 201 ; Tools M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C ; Network ;wifi in here I did set my start etc M550 PUMODUET3 ; Set machine name M552 S1 ; Fans M106 P0 S0 I0 F250 L15 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off M106 P1 S0.5 I0 F250 H1 T10 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on M106 P2 S1 I0 F250 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on ; Custom settings are not configured M501 ; read heater pids
  2. And S3D, and basically, each font size is separated on a process and each process uses a different nozzle size, even if you use 0.4 nozzle you (depending on the precision of the extruder and issues from a bowden) you could do 0.32-0.36 without getting stringing (if your extruder can do it without breaking the filament). That's why I use directdrive and bondtech feeder. To do tiny fonts you need the extrusion as precise as possible, ofc you can also ramp down the temperature and print them slow to get almost the same effect, but will need tunning. The outline overlap is a weird setting, for example for 4.2mm fonts I use single extrusion infill and force 1 perimeter to avoid getting both mixed, or for 2.8 I force gap infill and play with the settings until I get a crisp gcode preview. This ofc assuming the filament is close to perfect, a filament error of +0.06 will make your tests a mess, so is all about finding the balance, the smaller the text the harder is to get repetition
  3. Yea your reseller did lie. They are ‘open’ up to a point but they don’t share, for example, the firmware build or how disable the firmware key (to easily build your own firmware) ofc they do share info about how to do it. For um3 firmware key disable (no idea if works same on S3) check (can’t find the url with the post..) Without access to the firmware any hardware mod will be pita since um3/s3 doesn’t allow to easily force other gcode and that means that even the heating sequence (bed, core cartridges) can’t be changed. Good luck with the modding! But one important factor is that you can ask directly to um employees through the forum, so maybe they can help you reach your goal
  4. Gudo made a version for dual, very doable for um3 style dual. He also made de design for a BCN 3D style. It could even be great for prusa style to weight (but ofc that machines problem is the bed weight Y moves)
  5. Your first layer is too close to the bed (clearly visible on how that brims shows transparency). That makes the filament buildup and it fixes as soon there’s room for the excess to crawl (non solid layers). make a first proper layer and it should fix itself
  6. With this summer nothing is an overkill. Ofc I prefer my duet3Ds 😄
  7. So you can remove the initial purge, that’s nice. My comment was focused on the real day-to-day prints on dual color where you need a prime tower + skirt. Ofc there’s area around the towers that can be used, but not for squareshape print arra
  8. Well, real, actually (real life) print area is smaller since you need to consider purge (start) and prime (if dual) and a brim/skirt (useful since the purged material can be dragged by the nozzle (and it’s better that is dragged to the skirt/brim than the real print area. so.. Less, much less 🙂
  9. I’m my personal experience the bootup of um2 boards usually are due a bad heater. It’s easy to debug, heat bed for X minutes (same as the time needed to reboot while printing). Then turn off. Then heat hotend for the same time (or more ofc). Then finally if doesn’t fail heat both hotend and bed for X minutes, if only then fails it might be the psu, otherwise is a heater block
  10. The slower the acceleration and jerk the bigger the issue. Assuming you have a um2 it should be 3000/20 Try to print it rotated 45 degrees. If the problem goes away I would triple check also x/y alignment of the axis
  11. You are forgetting an important factor when pointing out the slicer. Cura has control over acceleration and jerk, check a print done with one slicer and other doesn’t prove a thing. Speed vs temperature is the reason of that visual error. I was giving examples of layer heights as a guide, not a recipe. Cura is more focus-based on click-print recipes, but every object has his needs. Just print 3 benchys at the same time and see how at least 1 is perfect, and possibly 1 is meh and 1 is bad
  12. This an issue of any fdm. At 0.15-0.2 layers the time at that point shortens and it’s a small loop followed by different size infill. It’s easy to understand if you check the gcode preview what happens there. Since there’s no slicer out there that can compensate time va heat va flow, the temperature for that 2 layers changes making the print show a visual defect. Its the same effect that happens when a small island is detached from the model, as soon time and head stays more time on an area the difference from flow/temperature makes a visual defect. The solution is to print everything slower/cooler, that’s why this doesn’t show as much on 0.06-0.1 Also some materials show more this than others just because at different mm3 the filament stays ‘hot’ more time, shifting the color. So as soon the filament prints with delay (at that height suddenly it has 4 jerk slowdowns (max speed to change direction) the filament stays more time on the hotend, so is actually hotter than the filament of the lower layers that does suffer less jerks because the nominal extrusion speed is easier to achieve). Chechk your gcode with a good analyzer like https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ and you will see a big slowdown on the affected area
  13. I did at that time of test, also got a x/y shift months after. In the end like I say on the other post I just moved out to duet3d and been enjoying the quality of life of a proper 32bit cpu with trinamic steppers. Happy printer, happy life
  14. Looks nice and clean, my only 'but' is that the heat craw will go up affecting the small boards and the printed part. The smothers easily get to 60-70C so you better print that on something else than pla or that enclosure will deform just like the plastic covers they sell with them. The other issue of the smoothers is the torque is reduced, so if you get a x/y slipping change the travel speed for non printing moves. I also observed a lot of torque lost on the extruder, so check that if you print at the limit or raise the hotend temperature to compensate the torque. For reference
  15. Also @hugoboc check duet3d forum, lots of users there, very experienced on mods and hacks
  16. I did ‘cut’ the psu to the board cutting the plug, I remember someone making a convert cable from um psu to plug, but can’t find it. They have been working absolutely fantastic on my 3 printers, would never to back to atmega or no wifi boards. I have them plug into a switch with buttons to turn of each printer cutting the power, but frankly I only turn them off in vacation and since you can upload the gcodes by wifi and do everything like reset, etc, I never actually turn them off. The config.g needs some work, and I would recommend to move the Z endstop to the top (like umo+) to save time, but duet3d you can plug a bed z sensor and do a mesh calibration if you want (I don’t do that). Overall the biggest difference is that you can rebuild everything (temp, sensors, fans, etc) by editing a gcode file, no need to reflash or prehistoric stuff.
  17. Impressive extra options. I wish someone fix your mac, great work
  18. That's not 'um3' magic, that's just another program But, you could do that on a Duet3D, more rustic, but totally doable since um3 doesn't pop the print out and like in 99% of the printers you need to go there, remove the print and go to your station. As 'magic' I mean the heat/cold sequence to print, the amps control to manage the weak PSU. Ofc if you mean as 'magic' the start-end sequence that the Core need to avoid clogging hard, ok, that's the linux firmware pythons.
  19. Sorry I love hour idea, but somehow isn’t easier to put a duet3d board, a better PSU (the only real work the um3 linux board does is to control the amps use of each head). 99% of the magic of um3 is all cura. You could also use mark2 firmware (that does that 1% magic cura can’t) and have a um2.5 working with a bit of effort but less money. As for um3 firmware they never released the source, (github style) but you can download the restore boot image and current firmware if you google a bit inside the forum and their website. Anyhow, good luck and keep modding!
  20. Fun fact. I found out about ironing (neosanding) year before writing about it, because forcing the second pass does indeed strength the parts. The way I use it is to print 2 parts that actually hit and reprint on the same area, then neosand it. I never published it because everyone would ask for ‘scientific proof’ and I don’t have the time to do the necessary tests. This being said, my proof is that 2 delicate items stopped snapping on poat office after I realized this 🙂 Slighly better explained on my twitter
  21. Ahh I get it now! Ty!
  22. Why not combing on infill? From precision point of view, it should be desired to avoid dripping on areas where the object should not have material. It's a recommendation for the printer model to avoid grinding or just is from the theory that 'dripping where you don't see doesn't matter' ? Because that's a very subjective matter.
  23. Oh forgot. Sent me a PM on Twitter so I don’t forget. I have gudo step files of the old bed stabilizer and my simple bed skis, but mind that I can use it without losing Z because I use the gudocorexy and it gives 9cm on Z that I use to place the bed flanged bearings below (making a sweet triangle to distribute the weight).
  24. Afaik that can be done pressing Shift while rotating?
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