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neotko

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Everything posted by neotko

  1. @bondtech now has an upgrade for um2+ feeders and um3 that reuses the motor and has a shape more UM in black. Looks very interesting and should work great (also you save some bucks) About the motor maybe they can share the specs since I don’t know on what box I have mine I see you made a geared extruder on Thingiverse, I assume the BindTech performs better? Indeed I did a @meduza version. But after that I moved to a FatIRobertI feeder that uses the cheap bondtech parts (to save cash while using it on 3 printers) and now all my orinters use Gudo & Me ZGE direct drive with bondtech for awesome precision and sweet flexibes or practically anything.
  2. @bondtech now has an upgrade for um2+ feeders and um3 that reuses the motor and has a shape more UM in black. Looks very interesting and should work great (also you save some bucks) About the motor maybe they can share the specs since I don’t know on what box I have mine
  3. Indeed @geert_2 could be nice to know if brittle filament makes more brittle prints. I suppose it doesn’t since the water that gives the flexibility should mostly disappear in both cases when going through the hotend. Maybe is other things that make it flexible or brittle, and if so what are they that suffer overtime? Is a pla printed part more brittle after X time?
  4. but was it also brittle? Indeed very (the filament). The print is on a sliderblock working just fine
  5. In my experience it doesn’t matter as long your feeder doesn’t snap it, or due bowden pressure it snaps inside the bowden. I have printed 2 years old open in the air plas with my bondtech & directdrive without any effect on the prints that I could see. Ofc I dont print + try to break it to see if works better or not.
  6. do you mean the UM2 original feeder? or the upgraded? If you want something that doesn’t surprise and works under heavy and normal use go for bondtech. All the others mk7-mk8-umbolt are half as good as moving the filament with precision. Ofc um optimized cura for their feeder, but that’s software path. I put my money on good hardware over fixes.
  7. No indeed it's not. But they don't do as many updates as Cura, so the users will have this issue for a year easily. Ofc if they contact S3D support they might send them a changed profile etc. Anyhow, the only that will have troubles is the user.
  8. It forces any id. Just like it forces that there should be actual g-codes in there. It needs those (especially for Cura Connect) to be able to figure out if it can be printed at all. This doesn't seem like that big of a deal if you always print whatever you slice right away, but with a queue (and especially with different configurations in your cluster) this suddenly becomes a thing. So why do you always have to assume malice? Well I'm a bad bad boy hahahaha Dunno probably I didn't had coffee when I wrote that. Why a cluster is a problem for a material header check? I mean, if you launch it from cura, not cura connect, why the material is a gcode integrity check? After all, worst thing that can happen is the printer asking for confirmation for correct material. Wouldn't it be easier to design a Blank Material for example? One that could be used for any slicer other than Cura. Now that I think it out loud, that could be a nice feature. A 'Blank' material profile, one that can be used for 'other slicers'.
  9. Split process at height and disable the tower for the new process
  10. Va a ser que el endstop se ha estropeado. Hace click pero falla. UM pone ese endstop muy cerca de la polea y roza. Yo contactaría a tr3sdland que son súper rápidos y muy majos. Recuerda que en españa en teoría tienes dos años de garantía, salvo que los endstop sean consumibles XD
  11. The tl-smooth plugs between the motor and the already installed old chips of um2/um2+/um3 boards. So yea you can install that man. They are cheap as chips. Just buy them on the seller at aliexpress.
  12. Latest firmware had info about a 0.25 Core, so probably that will be the next one they release. And yeah making good profiles take time, but also.. Years?
  13. Well that's a bit silly forcing a Material-ID to just print. What use does the material change on the printer then? Silly stuff think there. Ofc yea Ultimaker is a eco-system, but this stuff only helps Cura, not the users. Griffin should be named Slyther.
  14. The header can be 'faked' very easily. Ofc if Cura does new checks then it might not pass. Long ago when I had a um3 I did use their app to send gcodes, ofc it has a MB limit, but it did work. Did you guys increase the header security so only 'Cura-ted' files pass through?
  15. That should be M302... I will try Update: Tried and it started printing without heating nozzle and tried to extrude the filament with first extruder. 2nd one didn't work... Do the M302 after the tool change
  16. That’s the kind of high precision glass Misumi sells for ALOT of $. Was one of my first choices but also thought that was a bit expensive. If has good/normal adhesion please tell/share your findings. How much they charged you for it? For reference misumi glass https://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/2012/p2_0927.pdf
  17. Try to increase the ironing/neosanding to at least 20% MORE of the real print speed. Cura dev team left it at 20mm/s and that indeed allows the filament to drip and more importantly it overheats the print area making overhangs and weak parts suffer. Unhidde all options and speed it up. Read my post about why/how it works and then you can get the whole picture. Google neosanding ultimaker
  18. For UM3 Cores changing the nozzle could be possible but noone makes nozzles that could fit. The problem is that um3 cores are designed as stuff you toss away if fails, you know like a cartridge. Why can’t you swap the nozzle? Well, you would need to heat it, use tools, and be careful with many parts. Also the biggest issue is that noone makes nozzles for it. Maybe now that um3 step files are there aliexpress china cloners might make some. So, Officially I highly doubt UM will ever release cores with easy nozzle chanes. You know, for big $ companies is easier to change a cartridge/core, pay 100€ & switch it to keep working than using time to manually change a nozzle. On the other side the prices for the core components are really low for a cartridge that has heater, sensor, black peek as plastic holder, and their heat break design is quite neat. If you want to remove the nozzle @gr5 made a video and you will see that isn’t a easy adventure https://youtu.be/Ln_tMz8Dwd0 But remember that noone makes that nozzles. At least for now. Edit. Changed it to ‘code’ because the video gives a error linking it here. So copy/paste it to see it
  19. I forgot to add. That this is for ninjaflex (the really flexible kind) and recreus filaflex. That’s the ones I been using. Semiflexibles never give me an issue but also don’t know if they absorb or not water.
  20. In my months of experience with filaflex recreus and ninjaflex there’s easy to confuse bubbles from printing too slow for the temperature than actual humidity. Is a wide miss conception from old printing days. Basically this is what happens You push filament, filament reaches the temperature and it becomes almost an oil liquid. If the filament feeding speed is slower than how fast it drips then there’s air gaps between exit and input making a fake bubble effect. Basically with bowdens the amount of pressure than you can do is way too low. Maybe using a better bowden of not PFA or even the capricorn blue ptfe that e3d resells could help ona bowden. So to summarize. Flexible filaments do not absorb water.
  21. I would stay away from faber. They haven’t improved their formula since the start, their filament size consistency is ok but color shifts from pack to pack. Also they never solved the issue of micro dust particles inside the filaments, and sounds silly but affects more than what you expect, specially for pastel colors. For precision get smartmaterials (spain, super quality) fillamentum and for a safe bet colorfabb. Also try to buy pva boxes (easy to diy) to keep pva dry. If you planto get nylon or much pva, there are food dryers that can recover a spool overnight They are quite cheap (compared to what UM charges for a pva kilo) So. Tupperwares, desiccant, plastic zip bagges also help to pack filament after use (many big ones for food with zip are cheap on amazon).
  22. You could also do a classic spit in 4 parts so you always have a flat side to start. Then, glue, filler, sand, paint. Also you could try printing at 0.04 layer height, will be really slow but if time isn’t important and you have enough thickness you will be able to sand/clean/paint it really well afterwards.
  23. Check this guide and also post a photo of the print. Most of the time one thing is a shift or leaning or skipping. Is important to post images because it could even be x/y out of square. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
  24. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints#slopes-and-stair-stepping
  25. Indeed For me that I use S3D I did use 3.01 version for long time because it did what I needed, only until they released 4.0 with really interesting stuff (worth the time to learn how to control it) I did put time to learn the new stuff. Adding stuff on software every 2-3 months isn't always automatically great, and for users that just need to print and be sure it will work, is better to use what one knows that works stable than toying with new versions just for the shake of it
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